http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=36593 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 11:13 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 11:13 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. when i do the 6 and 12 I get some play. When I packed my bearings a year ago I either had to make it so the wheel wouldn't spin or be a little loose and spin. I read somewhere that you need it to spin. So the bearings are going to be that way. The tie-rod issue is another thing. I had both wheels off the ground today and noticed a very little amount of play. Not enough that would make me think something is wrong. I replaced the tie-rod ends for sure 3 1/2 yrs ago and maybe again with the PS rack 2 years ago. Most likely the cheap o's. I'm just going to wear out what is left of the tires up front and look for another car. Besides an alignment I have to get another tire, a tie-rod, a front cross member, oil pan, rear axle, strut mounts, floor boards, rocker panel hole welded, paint on roof, battery, rebuild drivers seat, replace rear carpet due to mold from floor boards, tail light, buff headlights and who knows what else. It has a lot of usable newish parts that I hope to part out onto another find. Maybe make a trip to California for a wagon sometime. I was hoping to just get it aligned ($30), get a used tire, and drive it through the winter hoping someone would slide into me on a snowy morning. But then I started thinking after I posted this that i have emissions and safety in January. I really need to replaced the crossmember to be safe but if I do that I should really do the strut mounts. Then I'm into another $500 over the next year and its still got a major rust issue on the underbelly. Well, I got a little over 100,000 miles in 5 years. Bought it for $1000 and initially put $1000 into it. Put another $1500 in parts over the 4 years I've been on the brickboard. $3500 for 100,000 miles? not bad. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387308&rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 09:41 GMT try craigslist or the classifieds on here. http://www.brickboard.com/CLASSADS/ http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387306&rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 09:25 GMT I know someone who ran a 90 240 into the red due to a seeping coolant hose. After that the car had piston slap. The sound is a low thick sound and gets slightly quieter when its warmed up. Wondering if the piston swells from heat and dampens the sound. I did a compression test and it was slightly lower but not so much, maybe 10 or 15 out of the 160 0r what ever the spec is on compression. Engine had 100,000 miles. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387305&rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 09:23 GMT I went in to have an alignment done the other day and they told me my outer tie-rod was bad on the drivers side. Also my wheel bearings needed to be repacked. Well I know the bearings are fine but may need adjusting. So tonight I jacked up that one side of the car and did the 3 & 9 test with no movement detected. I'm wondering if both wheels have to be off the ground to test the outer tie-rod or if they are mistaking my bad alignment which wore the outer part of that tire bald as a bad tie-rod. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387084&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 06:16 GMT I was looking on my local craigslist and found a set of 4 dunlops. I looked them up on tirerack and I guess since they are last years model they where clearing them out for $50 each. You might try looking for past models that are on clearance. Not sure how to go about it but I'm guessing there are some other tires on that site for cheap too. I went into a national chain today looking at tires. The guy told me that a couple months ago a new import tax on chinese made tires was raising the price of american made by 30%. I went to wal-mart and found plenty of good deals still. Not sure if I trust a wal-mart tech to balance a tire but when they run $40 less per tire then maybe its worth a try. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386878&rss=1 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 08:09 GMT The big question. Will there ever be a real market for refurbished 240's. In ten years could I get 7 or 8 grand for a car that has new paint, no rust and all the essentials replaced. And if so would I really want to sell it? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385746&rss=1 Thu, 12 Nov 2009 07:31 GMT I just went today after work and looked at an 88 sedan for $400. Claimed to have many new parts and only needed the engine mount fixed for it to drive. Paint and interior was suppose to be in bad shape. Only two owners. It was missing trim, 50% of the clear coat, worse color of blue interior with a soft material, no glove box or stereo, had a strange grind for a second after starting, the brake pedal went too far and spongy, had some valve clatter at high rpm, no pre-heat hose, vacuum leak, bad tail lights, bad smell inside, no speakers, bad tint job all around, bad tires, broken sway bar linkage, leaking power steering hoses/ overflow, leaking auto transmission but it had NO RUST. California car and has only seen salted roads one winter. It has a new water pump and radiator along with a new alternator. I think having the old pump and radiator would be more assuring that it hadn't overheated. Was driven for a number of years in the desert of the South West. For $200 I'd buy it just for the no rust. I've got a rusted out 86 ready to be parted out to such a body. Tempting to just go for the restoration of the paint and swap parts including interior. But then this post made me realize it'd be young and foolish to swap everything. I was thinking it would need engine and all. Any VW beatle restorer would think it a great deal. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385484&rss=1 Wed, 11 Nov 2009 05:41 GMT how close to the floor is the clutch engaging? I know mine are usually closer to the floor than the start. If the cable is adjusted wrong to where its engaging too soon it might be adjusted too tight. On the other hand if a clutch engages by pressing the pedal hard into the floor its too loose. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385369&rss=1 Tue, 10 Nov 2009 16:16 GMT codes. http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm my vote is for the AMM. open up the airbox prior to the AMM and see if the thermostat is stuck open to the silver hose leading to the exhaust manifold. That will destroy your AMM. I rigged mine with the right sized bolt and nut to stay on cold air coming from the front of the car. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385315&rss=1 Tue, 10 Nov 2009 05:50 GMT the center bearing is easy to distinguish. The bearing will have a whine to it and even out of gear coasting in the car will have the sound relative to speed. The faster you go the louder it can get. Goes quieter while slowing to a stop. (What I've read on this board in the past) Spray some kind of lubricant by peeling back the rubber around the bearing. Spray some PB Blaster or liquid wrench into the bearing. This should help solve the noise for the time being. When mine went it made that sound occasionally over a couple years but mostly just in the winter time when it cold cold and wet. When I replaced it the remaining grease had been hardened with no sign of good grease in it. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383896&rss=1 Tue, 3 Nov 2009 18:24 GMT Its hard to let go of old friends. I've done a lot of work on this car including the suspension but your right. The engine is still running so good that I feel guilty parting it out. sorry for wasting space on the board. should have realized that this car is on its way out. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383229&rss=1 Sat, 31 Oct 2009 17:02 GMT I'm still not sure if I want to give up on my 86 even with the rusted out floor pans and a 2x4 inch hole in the rocker panel. I will need to replace the front crossmember if I keep it rolling for a couple more years. My brother is at the point of retiring an 82 (the one and only mpg weak power model). Wondering if his front crossmember would fit my 86. If not I'm still on the look out for a cheap body to transport my parts to. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383103&rss=1 Fri, 30 Oct 2009 23:18 GMT I'm just south of SLC. I like that green sedan on there too. But I'm shopping for a $399 deal to transport all my parts to from the nearly deceased 86 I've got rusting out. Good Luck. If you leave your seat while going over a bump you know the suspension is really bad. Or on the freeway when you change lanes suddenly and the car sways or reacts in a weird sort of rocking motion side to side its time for some suspension. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382767&rss=1 Thu, 29 Oct 2009 17:04 GMT I didn't see any where on the ad that said Turbo as was mentioned by someone in this thread. Looks nice. That was the first year with a clear coat finish. I like the glass head lights on the 85. $2000? I'd give $1500. Not sure why they think its worth $2000 when the list of parts replaced are minimal. Does it have a nice bouncy ride to it? Need suspension parts? Those are costly and some hard work. I'd for sure do a compression test. Look over the engine harness as someone has mentioned to see if it has any signs of bare wires near the grey connector on the back fire wall. Oil leaks and transmission leaks. Does the Over drive work properly. Any sign of a leak at the rear differential? How reactive are the brakes and is there any shuttering. High way speeds ok? Any wheel balance issues with those rims? I really like the look of this car. I'd buy it for the right price. $2000 you really have to want it. I'm guessing somewhere in California this same car with the same condition is for sale for less. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382693&rss=1 Thu, 29 Oct 2009 05:06 GMT brickboard FAQ section: "Fatigue Failure in Front Crossmembers. &#091Technical Note from UK Volvo Club, 700 Section&#093 I have also been advised that there have been more than a few cases of Volvo 700/900's generating hairline cracks in the front crossmember, right next to the part where the lower suspension arm bolts on. These often go undetected because of dirt and in any case the paint has to be cleaned off to spot them for sure. &#091Rowan Mideke&#093 My 85 745 developed some front end problems including no control in reverse, leaving black marks on concrete just from tire scrub, hideous popping noises on the highway, and excessive outer edge tire wear. I noticed some small fractures at the inner control arm mounts. It didn't look too serious, but that metal is not as tough as I would have hoped. Six months later, it's scary to drive; the crossmember is nearly ripped in half. It so happens that 1983-1986 cars suffer from cross member fatigue cracking at both the control arm and frame mount bolt holes that can lead to complete failure of the cross member and front suspension collapse. The later, redesigned cross member is a direct bolt-in replacement. If you have an earlier vintage Volvo, inspect this component on a regular basis." Is this a problem on the 240's. Anyone have an experience. I bent my front crossmember this year and have been driving the car this past week. The steering is actually a little better than it was right after the accident. Wondering if the crossmember could fail. I better check it out soon. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382458&rss=1 Wed, 28 Oct 2009 05:48 GMT Running a wire from the alternator to the grey connector works. Don't cut the wires off the grey connector too close cause you need to be able to crimp. Leave a couple inches and tape the bare wire after the crimp, if its bare there like most are. IPD has a kit with the right sized wires and maybe some instructions too. I could look at mine, its an 86 with the same wire replaced. You run it to the passenger fender and across the back of the engine firewall to the connector rather than under the front of the engine. A schematic would tell which color wire you'd need to replace. Look at the big ground ground wire too, I had it break on mine. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382149&rss=1 Tue, 27 Oct 2009 01:17 GMT I saw some m46 gears and parts on ebay this past week, not sure if that would work for you or not. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381468&rss=1 Fri, 23 Oct 2009 16:17 GMT http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380622&rss=1 Mon, 19 Oct 2009 23:52 GMT I've scanned over most of this thread. Don't count out the 25 amp fuse. I had a car not start after washing the engine. It ran rough on the 2 miles back home and then cut out down the street. Wouldn't start for over a week. 25 amp fuse was pulled multiple times and look at carefully. Looked fine but swapping in a new slightly thicker bladed fuse solved the problem. Just in case its not the ignition amplifier. Maybe try the fuse first next time before messing with the amplifier. Thats what I'd do. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380274&rss=1 Sun, 18 Oct 2009 08:46 GMT Its just one piece of metal like a frisbee? The lip underneath right? Ya I ordered the same thing once and needed the same ones your looking for. The ones with the metal ring around the outside and the smaller piece on the inside. I ordered only one of them and decided to just keep it for a wall ornament. Maybe drill a hole and tap some clock hands in it. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379768&rss=1 Fri, 16 Oct 2009 03:46 GMT If you need to press the pedal really hard into the floor to get it to go then you need to adjust the clutch cable. A few turns of the plastic nut in the right direction will do that. Look at the cable where it hold down below on that metal tube that is part of the car. If the plastic round piece on the cable is breaking then you might need a new cable soon. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379639&rss=1 Thu, 15 Oct 2009 17:58 GMT does pressing the brake pedal cause any change in idle? When I have a vacuum leak the brake pedal will usually effect the idle or at least it was this past week when found a vacuum hose off. When you say it won't idle high are you saying 900rpm or do the later 240's idle higher for warm up? Is your idle low in the 300 rpm range at cold or normal at 900? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379048&rss=1 Mon, 12 Oct 2009 23:41 GMT What year is your 240? I have an 86 that I installed that same pipe from eEuroparts.com and it hung way low and didn't line up. The exhaust guy didn't tell me the header was different until after he had welded everything into place, not the header but the cat to muffler which had to be twisted a bit to line up. I've already dented the thing since it hangs too low. I bought a bosal in hopes it would be different but I haven't had the chance to take it off and compare. I'm ready to sell the bosal since the 86 is now going to be parted out in the next year to another car when I find it. Your old pipe looks like its off a 80-84? I just took one exactly like that off a 84 since I wanted the manifold. I compared it to my bosal and it seemed a little longer in the down section but the ends met up at the same place. Which gives me some hope that Bosal downpipes are going to fit better. I had the exhaust guy say he'd cut it and reweld the down part to make it work better for $40. Seems like a bunch of $*&#((#)&%)#( to me. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378763&rss=1 Sun, 11 Oct 2009 17:41 GMT I'm gearing up for a strut change here shortly. I've done it once before and I don't look forward to doing it again. This time I'll employ some help to get the whole thing back on the car. Nothing like trying to hold the thing while fumbling around with a 13mm nut. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378705&rss=1 Sun, 11 Oct 2009 07:30 GMT I had already flushed the transmission a year ago in hopes of it helping. My solenoid and relay click with green light at dash. Cleaned the screens and fixed a broken wire in the shifter. I ran out of Type F after 2.25 quarts. Not sure how much is needed. I plan on getting more and topping it off if its possible that it may be causing the OD not to engage. But I don't feel the slightest attempts by the OD to engage, nothing, no kind of sounds or vibrations that would make me think its trying. If the dash light is working doesn't that mean the 4th gear switch is working? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378584&rss=1 Sat, 10 Oct 2009 18:00 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/