http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=35880 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sun, 22 Nov 2009 15:12 GMT Sun, 22 Nov 2009 15:12 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. If you find one let me know. I am very slowly rebuilding a b16 car and figured I would end up making a header myself. I would think that the company of Ellemann-Jakobsen in Sweden would have the info. Ellemann-Jakobsen was the speed company that prepared 444 and early 544 for rally racing before Volvo had an in-house 'works' department. The company still exists (acording to some one claiming to be the 4th generation of Ellemann-Jakobsen that cropped up on the UK Volvo forum and then never was on the board a second time) but it doesn't look like they have a web presence. Chris http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387410&rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 22:58 GMT I'm working on refloorboarding a 544 at the moment. A co-worker suggested 3M's 'Drip Check' as he has rebuilt more cars than I can count on all my fingers and toes. So far it's done very well. My proceedure was to finish all my welding, wash everything down with Phoshoric acid (POR-15 'Surface Prep' you want the brand names) run all the way around the new floor pan with the Drip Check, let dry for two days and then over coat with POR-15 paint and then top coat with a rattle can. Yes, most likely gross over kill but I want to do it only once. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386970&rss=1 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 19:02 GMT So I have pulled ig. cylinders from the early 122's and 1800. Those are the same ASSA ones that most of the 544's have. I know you turn the key and push the button and pull out on the key to remove... Now on the 544, it's a long ways back in there (as the bottom lip of hte dash is much longer) to get the button pushed. Any hints out there on how to do it? Would I be best off to pull the instr. cluster and go in that way? Get out the gas axe and cut the car in half? Chris http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383697&rss=1 Mon, 2 Nov 2009 23:01 GMT There was recently a '65 Amazon with a bench seat and column mounted shifter that cropped up for sale in Australia. The car was custom ordered with bench seat and I think it had the M40 rather than the three speed in it. Chris http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380562&rss=1 Mon, 19 Oct 2009 19:57 GMT I am in the process of reflooring a 544. The rear pans from VP (when not back ordered for months at a time) are flat with four minor ribs in them. For the cost (I got mine from a guy who didn't use them in his restoration) from VP I would think they would be better. I wanted foot wells and so I got some other bits lasered out and then did surface delevelopment on the computer to see how to cut, bend and weld the parts I have to have some foot wells in the back. It's a lot of work to do it that way but I think it's the correct way. If you are going to just get the flat ones, make a drawing and visit your local sheet metal guys. I was very impressed with what I could get locally from my drawing (disclaimer, I'm an engineer by trade). The fronts are my own to match originals and I think they are better than the ones commonly sold on the open market. If you only need the very bottom of the the rear foot well, the flat ones may work for you. How much of the rears to you really need in your 122? I have a four door I'm about to scrap. I think the rears are in good shape. It's a pain to cut them out but it may be the ticket. Drop me a note off list and we can trade photos of what you need and what I have.... Chris agent_strangelove@hotmail.com http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379383&rss=1 Wed, 14 Oct 2009 15:39 GMT If he can't help you, I have a whole apple box of wipers in various states. They were not standardized so you may have an odd brand one on there. I'm sure we can find you a spring if you send a photo of what you are looking for. Thanks Chris http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377878&rss=1 Wed, 7 Oct 2009 16:24 GMT I've got a few 6v b16 starters about. Drop me a note off list. Chris agent_strangelove@hotmail.com http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377353&rss=1 Mon, 5 Oct 2009 16:08 GMT You need to drop a note to George Minassian (amazon@cirruscomms.com.au). He's the keeper of the 123gt register and into rally racing in Australia. He will know off the top of his head who's car that is, what race it was etc. A quick check looks like it's chassis #274623 and there are a few more photos on the standard 122 chassis data base. Chris http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1374833&rss=1 Thu, 24 Sep 2009 20:16 GMT I've got a big jar of good used ones of those.... Drop me a note off list. VP wanting $6 each is a bit steep.... Thanks Chris agent_strangelove@hotmail.com http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1374362&rss=1 Tue, 22 Sep 2009 16:31 GMT I've got one around. Drop me a note off list. Thanks Chris Agent_strangelove@hotmail.com http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1373509&rss=1 Fri, 18 Sep 2009 22:52 GMT I have run quite a few sets of Volvo seat belts through the washing machine. The belts are nylon strap so they will not shrink. Just put the belts in an old pillow case (to protect the drum of your washing machine) and tie the pillow case off. Wash with a bunch of other laundry and you are fine... Chris http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1373505&rss=1 Fri, 18 Sep 2009 22:42 GMT Well I started to cut out the floor of my 544. I figured I would start to cut them out, then order the new ones. Well it looks like no one has them now... VP, Swedish Classics and Olof don't have them and they are back ordered. Anyone have an extra set? Or am I just stuck waiting? Chris http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1372638&rss=1 Tue, 15 Sep 2009 20:26 GMT The early (b16 hoods) had the stiffener running across the hood. The later (b18 cars) had the stiffeners in sort of a 'V shape with the point of the 'v' being the nose of the hood.... Chris http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1372634&rss=1 Tue, 15 Sep 2009 20:14 GMT I know I have at least two of them so I can part with one... I've shipped them before and it's not that hard to do in a bike box. I'm thinking $250 shipped to your door step. Drop me an email off list and I can send you photos of the nice straight one I am talking about... Thanks Chris agent_strangelove@hotmail.com http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1371617&rss=1 Fri, 11 Sep 2009 16:46 GMT I've got a handful of them around... I'm more than happy to sell you one. Let me know if you can't get your back in action but as Cameron said, lots of times a bit of oil and a hand spin and they are working again. Thanks Chris agent_strangelove@hotmail.com http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1371375&rss=1 Thu, 10 Sep 2009 16:02 GMT The 444 and early 544 had a different belt then the later 544. What year was your 544 and what year is your 444? The earlier belts had a bracket that was held on by two bolts on the pillar. This would be what you are trying to bolt the two ends of your seat belt to (not just the one end). See: http://www3.snapfish.com/slideshow/AlbumID=1603667006/PictureID=63767532006/a=15909148_15909148/ for a photo of an 444/early 544 belt and the fitting that screwed into the pillar. If you have these two threaded holes, you should have the threaded hole in the tranny tunnel and the threaded hole for the lower portion of the belt. Have you looked under the floor mat? But the first couple of years, they changed the pillar hole spacing several times. Measure the distance between them and I might be able to help you with some of the correct belts for your car. The belt shown is about 3 1/8 between holes but I know there were other spacings. Chris http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1370178&rss=1 Fri, 4 Sep 2009 17:29 GMT Your question is a wonderful one but a bit simplified.... I would be willing to bet 99% percent of the B18/20 in the world today have been rebuild at least once. I wouldn't count on getting any truly 'stock' from a junkyard. Cams have been changed, distributors swapped, heads decked etc.... A fresh b18 with a single carb would have more horsepower than some of the tired injected B20's I have owned. 'Best' for one application would not be great for another. I sell a number of heads and block for cores to folks every year. Are you going to drive it on pump gas or have a supercharger on it? Those question effect what you want your final compression ratio to be. You can have a sky high compression ration but I personally don't see many gas stations carring nitromethane for your daily driver. Cams are the same range of questions. Heads come down to not just porting and polishing but also what type of carbs or injection system you are going to use and how many sensors you have/need. Chris http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1369743&rss=1 Wed, 2 Sep 2009 20:48 GMT As Cameron said, the insurance company will try to convince you it's a $500 car since it's a 40 year old import..... Having totalled a couple of 1800s in my days, you will have to fight with them. I have also got one totaled car back from them. They 'charged' me 20% of the final settlement value to keep the car. Thus I ended up with a rolled car, a check for 80% of what I thought it was worth and I never surrendered the title so I don't know how that played out as I sold the stripped carcass to another guy. Another very good source of compairable 1800's for sale is Australia. There are still lots of very nice 1800 on the road down there. The best site for finding nice 1800 cars down there: http://www.carpoint.com.au/used-cars/search.aspx?N=279+1426+4294967019+4294898742+&RegionID=&Region=(all%20regions)&Model=P1800 Remember that the prices are in AUD (1AUD = .83USD). Chris http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1368356&rss=1 Wed, 26 Aug 2009 23:16 GMT I have seen one '59 122 in this country that left the factory with a b16. It had a b18 in it when I saw it last winter. It was a rusty, non running car but the data was given to Ulla (volvo history dept) and it came back as being made mid Dec of '59 and was a US export car. The guy who owned it got it for free from another guy and then turned around tired to sell it for $1000. The whole situation was sort screwy as the last owner was going into the army and wanted it gone. His wife had it listed on the local Craigs list for several months and I doubt if it ever sold. I should drive by the guys house, I'm willing to bet it's still there unless the city towed it off as a non-running car. Chris http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1366810&rss=1 Tue, 18 Aug 2009 18:34 GMT If Eric doesn't have the bits you are after in his boneyard, I have a few D-types about that I can strip some parts out of... Chris http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1365330&rss=1 Tue, 11 Aug 2009 15:35 GMT What timing... Last week I bought out a failed restoration project. There are new sport springs with it. The fronts were fitted and the car never moved again. The rears are still in the packing in the box. It's clear that they are a set from Scandix that IPD then purchased and resold. Drop me a note off list and I can send you all the photo of them and the various numbers off them. There were also a set of brand new, front bilstien shocks with them as well if those would help this project. Thanks Chris agent_strangelove@hotmail.com http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1365179&rss=1 Mon, 10 Aug 2009 20:58 GMT Jamie I've got a few doors about. Which one are you looking for? Chris http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1363138&rss=1 Fri, 31 Jul 2009 18:04 GMT #1-Personally I would say if the engine didn't have noise on the bottom end, leave it alone. #2- Any old school distributor rebuilder should be able to work on your bosch unit. It's not a off the shelf unit from Napa but it's not complicated. If you can't find a good rebuilder near you. There is one here in Portland, OR. They do lots of stuff for the older Volvo community. They are Philbin Manufacturing: http://www.philbingroup.com/ Both my cars have a distributor they have rebuilt and my 1939 tractor's magneto was no problem for them to rebuild. #3-The dual line off a '68 will work on an earlier car but you will have to move hardlines over ect. If you are scrapping the '68, the guts out of the rears may be worth saving if the self adjusters are still there. Chris http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1362758&rss=1 Wed, 29 Jul 2009 16:44 GMT I think the guy's name was Brian Day. He had a space down on the south waterfront near where OHSU built the new campus but left there about 5 years ago. I ran into him last winter when I was approached about selling a 1800 cross member to a guy locally and Brian was going to install it. I dropped it off at his place down in SE. (Don't remember the exact address but it was about 55th and a couple of blocks north of Woodstock). I might be able to find some contact info if you email me directly... Chris agent_strangelove@hotmail.com http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1361163&rss=1 Tue, 21 Jul 2009 15:33 GMT Drop me a note off list and I can send you a diagram I made for folks converting a 122/1800 to an alternator. I don't know how your car was done but if the car is still 6volt then that may be another issue. Chris agent_strangelove@hotmail.com http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1359188&rss=1 Fri, 10 Jul 2009 23:30 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/