http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=3559 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sun, 22 Nov 2009 14:18 GMT Sun, 22 Nov 2009 14:18 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Hi Shannon - thanks for the reply. For some reason the system won't let me update my email address, so I had to log on to see the messages. I have a Warp9 with a 1.25-inch keyed shaft, not the TransWarp9. I'm going clutchless, so just need to couple the 1.25-inch keyed shaft to the trans input shaft. The Warp9 has a recess for a pilot bushing, so the pilot shaft of the trans will fit in there and be supported, and the motor housing and bellhousing will be firmly connected with 1/2-inch aluminium spacer disks. If worse comes to worse, I'll modify a clutch disk to enable mounting it to a machined motor shaft coupling...I was just hoping to find some other splined object that was more robust than a clutch disk...although many people use a modified clutch disk. Using an auto trans is not feasible due to the need for hydraulic pressure - needs an electric pump which wastes battery power. With around-town driving, a manual trans with no clutch works great because you can pretty much stay in 2nd or 3rd gear, depending on the speed zone. Shifting isn't too difficult, even without the clutch, if done slowly. I'll try the library link - thanks! Greg http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357547&rss=1 Wed, 1 Jul 2009 08:00 GMT Hi George - would love to see some pics of the car (do you have any on a web site or something?) I wish I could make it to Tulsa for the meet, but it's a little too far to drive from Australia (even if the ES would float, I get seasick, so I think I'll pass!) Regards, Greg Sievert Melbourne, Australia http://volvovic.org.au/joomla/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=22:greg-sieverts-1800-es&catid=34:membercars&Itemid=46 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357000&rss=1 Sun, 28 Jun 2009 06:18 GMT Hi everyone. I'm a little confused about the transmission input shaft size on the M45/M46 transmissions. I thought they were either the coarse spline (10 teeth) or the fine spline (22 teeth), and all the same diameter. But, when looking at a clutch web site, there was some indication that the later 22-teeth spline clutches had either 15/16-inch diameter or 1-inch diameter, depending on year and model. The trans I have appears to be 15/16-inch diameter 22-teeth spline on the input shaft. Also, does anyone know if any of the Volvo transmissions have a matching 22-teeth 15/16-inch OUTPUT shaft for the driveshaft flange on the back? I looked at the output shaft on my M45 and it looks to be larger in diameter than the input shaft. I'm asking these crazy questions because I'm trying to come up with the best way to couple my electric motor to my M45 input shaft without having a machine shop involved. Yes, I'm converting a Volvo to an EV (more info here: http://evalbum.com/2356 if you want to have a look!) Regards, Greg Sievert Melbourne, Australia http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1356999&rss=1 Sun, 28 Jun 2009 06:12 GMT Hi Gary - thanks for the info. Checked out your web site and 142 race car - looks nice! Oddly, I spent a good part of my life in Tulsa (went to Jenks HS, then University of Tulsa for my BS degree in Mech Eng). Must say I hadn't heard of the race track though, but haven't lived in Tulsa since 1989. Regards, Greg Sievert Melbourne Australia http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1290400&rss=1 Fri, 18 Jul 2008 12:15 GMT Hi George - things are fine here except the weather (rather dreary lately in Melbourne! Typical winter but without the rain unfortunately as we really need it). Thanks for the info re: mass. Remember pulling the M41 trans out of my 1800ES shortly after I bought it. I was surprised that when I was under the car and simply "eased" it down on top of my chest that I was suddenly unable to breathe, and had to rapidly offload it onto the floor! We're still hemming and hawing about the EV project. The 145 is a candidate because we already own it, and it's already licenced and on the road. We were also considering a 850 wagon or V70, but with FWD it's a little more difficult. With RWD, some motors can be directly swapped in where the transmission was, with the only requirement being a coupling to join the motor output shaft to the driveshaft. With FWD, you usually have to use the transaxle and make an adapter plate for the motor. Also, if you use the trans, you want a manual, and 850/V70 are hard to find with manuals here. Took the 1800ES up to Toowoomba, QLD for the Volvo Clubs of AUS national rally back in May - had a great turn-out of cars (approx 60) and the ES ran well as always. Regards, Greg http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1289184&rss=1 Sat, 12 Jul 2008 23:26 GMT Hi all - does anyone know offhand what a B18 and/or B20 engine weighs? What about an M40 transmission? I'm thinking about doing an electric car conversion on a 1968 145S and curious to know how much weight I'll be taking out when I remove the engine and transmission. The car has a B18B (twin SU carbs) and no OD (hence M40). Thanks in advance! Greg Sievert Melbourne, Australia http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1289033&rss=1 Sat, 12 Jul 2008 06:43 GMT Glad you like the wheels and black-out job. Not everyone can appreciate modifications, but some people love it. I enjoy tailoring the car to suit my tastes, and it keeps me occupied in my "spare time" http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1269206&rss=1 Thu, 3 Apr 2008 09:19 GMT Hi George - yep, it's me! I just re-lived the Sweden trip at our Volvo Club meeting (gave a slide show presentation). Everyone was amazed at the large group who went on the trip, and also they were jealous that Volvo offers a discount/OSD program for the US. Unfortunately they don't have it for Australia. Funny thing about the Parkes antenna - there are tons of signs in the parking area that say to turn off your car's engine and electronics immediately when you arrive, as the antenna is so sensitive it can pick up stray signals from the electronic systems in the car! The antenna has an interesting history - which has been portrayed in the movie "The Dish" - well worth watching (out on DVD/Video now) if you haven't already seen it. Regards, Greg http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1269205&rss=1 Thu, 3 Apr 2008 09:15 GMT (oops - this was meant to be a reply to 120 MPG question, so it appears to be in the wrong forum! Sorry about that!) I've been keeping a log of my MPG in the 1800ES since I got it. After 40000 miles the average is 21.6 MPG (US gallons!) Much of that would have been either driving on the freeway to national Volvo club meets, or taking the car for a "Sunday drive". On straight freeway driving (60-70 MPH) it averages between 24-26 MPG. FYI I have the ipd "street torque" camshaft, the car is a manual with 4.30 rear end and OD, the head has been off once for a re-fresh, but the bottom end has never been touched (it has about 150,000 miles on it since new). I have an O2 sensor, and it runs pretty much at stoichiometric at highway speeds. I'm now located in Australia and have the car with me here, so I think in "litres per hundred kilometres" now - whoever thought that one up should be shot! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1268536&rss=1 Mon, 31 Mar 2008 10:29 GMT Hi All. I'm working on a budget 740 Turbo "race" car (stripped out the interior, all unnecessary electrical items etc.) and I am now having a problem with the charging system. The situation is this: When I start the car, the alternator does not appear to be charging (the voltage stays around 12 volts and begins to decrease as the battery begins to drain). If I rev the engine up to about 4000+ RPM (ouch!), the alternator seems to "kick in" and work fine even after the RPM is dropped back down to idle. I can tell the alternator is now working because the voltage goes up to about 14 volts. Next time I turn off the car and re-start it, the same thing happens - no charging until I really rev up the engine, then things are fine again. First, I suspected a bad battery (it was in fact bad - must have had a dead cell). I also swapped in another alternator (80-amp version instead of 100-amp version) while I still had the "bad" battery and the same thing happened. Now, with a new battery, I still have the same problem. I'm thinking either A) the "bad" battery has somehow damaged both alternators, or B) there's some other odd problem with the wiring, but the charging circuit is so simple I find that hard to believe, or C) the "new" battery that I got has been sitting around on the shelf for so long that it is indeed "bad" as well (it was quite dusty, and only 11.8 volts when I got it, so I had to charge it for a while on the battery charger). Does anyone have any ideas? I pulled the 80-amp alternator off and plan to have it bench tested, but I thought I'd put the question to the gurus first. Regards, Greg Sievert Melbourne, Australia http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=979352&rss=1 Tue, 5 Jul 2005 09:49 GMT I have a 66 120 wagon as well - how easy is it to fit OD - any cutting of the floor required, or does it fit in the tunnel just fine? Thx Greg http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=815800&rss=1 Fri, 18 Jun 2004 10:28 GMT Hi Yvan - I've had a lot of requests - guess I should do a proper posting somewhere about it. Here's the reply I gave to a fellow brickster. Let me know if you want further info. good to hear from you. Currently, I don't have a web site, but I have been writing a series of articles about it for the Australian Volvo Club magazine. There's been enough interest that I need to consider putting it all together in a pdf format and making it available when people ask about it. I'll put your name on the list of folks who want more info and when I get around to it I'll send you the full story. In the mean time, I'll just give you a brief description of the project and attach a couple pics. The car is a 1988 240GL with B230F engine and 5-speed manual trans. I bought the supercharger used. It came from a Japanese domestic market Toyota with a 2-litre in-line six engine. The superchargers are relatively cheap here in Australia because many companies import Japanese wrecks and "half cuts" (front of the car only, to avoid import duties so they can sell it as parts) to feed the large market of people who hot up Japanese cars here. The supercharger itself is a roots-type, with an electromagnetic clutch on the front just like an A/C compressor so you can switch it on (for power) and off (for economy). I fitted the supercharger in the location of the existing A/C compressor, and moved the A/C compressor up high where the current P/S pump is. The PS pump is now relocated on the opposite side of the engine. I made up all the brackets myself out of heavy-gauge aluminium, and had the pulley for the front crank made up by a friend of a friend at work. All the plumbing for the intake was made up from various bits and pieces from Saab & Volvo turbo cars. The boost level is only about 3.5 psi, but this is adequate with the high-compression of the engine (9.5:1). Any higher boost would require water injection or an intercooler. My biggest problem was getting extra fuel into the engine. For this, I used a Vortech rising rate fuel pressure regulator, which increases fuel pressure by a 10:1 ratio with boost. This is adequate for all but the highest RPM/Boost, which I plan to take care of by adding another injector that kicks in under those circumstances. The power isn't like that of a turbo. I'd say it's more like a V6, as the torque at low RPM is great, but it runs out of breath at high RPM where a turbo is making all its power. It's great around town compared to a turbo, due to the low-RPM torque. That's it in a nutshell. I'll attach a couple pics to a second e-mail. Regards, Greg http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=815299&rss=1 Thu, 17 Jun 2004 08:03 GMT Hi All. I'm thinking about converting the rear axle in my 66 P220 to one from a later model (either 1800E/ES or 240, and yes, I know it's not a bolt-on operation - requires welding new brackets onto the axle tube - anyone who has done this I'd be interested to hear about it), which would result in having the later (5x108mm) wheel stud/hub pattern. What's the best way to change over the front? Is it possible to directly bolt the front hubs/knuckles/brakes from an 1800E/ES onto the front of my P220? I'm also planning to convert to the dual diagonal brake circuits. Swapping front hardware from an 1800E/ES would go a long ways towards helping in this respect. Are there other options for the front swap? Will 140 or 164 front hardware (knuckle/hub/brake) work at all, or is it totally different. Thanks! Greg Sievert http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=812896&rss=1 Sat, 12 Jun 2004 02:06 GMT Hi George - thanks for the info. I'm up for a challenge (just finished supercharging my 1988 240 GL) so I'm not too worried about the work involved. I will take a good look inside the P220 door and also a 240 front door that I have sitting in the garage. I hope to use a lot of 240 parts for this P220 project because 240's are very common and parts are cheap at the wreckers here in Aus. I'm thinking seriously about an engine swap to a B230E/F, and also considering swapping to a 240 rear axle (yes, cutting and welding suitable brackets to fit to the P220 rear links etc....and the track will be wider, so maybe I can go to FWD wheels to bring it back into line....all dream stuff at this stage) Anyway, I'll try to keep the board posted on my project status. Regards, Greg http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=812812&rss=1 Fri, 11 Jun 2004 22:47 GMT Hi Ben - from the replies I got, it seems like the project is definitely worth considering. I've sent an e-mail to the father & daughter team who built the fantastic-looking purple P220 shown on the NZ web site. Hope to get a reply. They might be able to give a headstart to those of us who are just thinking about it now....like what regulators they used (eg. maybe from a 240?) and whether they created their own window channels from scratch, or purchased a kit from one of the hot rod shops. I've only had the P220 for a couple weeks, so I haven't even had the door panels off yet. I do have a 73 1800ES, but I bet the guts of the door are a bit different on that due to the frameless glass. Anyway, I'll be sure to do another posting after I have tackled the project! Regards, Greg http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=812810&rss=1 Fri, 11 Jun 2004 22:43 GMT Hi Curtis - thanks for the info. It should come in handy. It's amazing how many useful posts I got to this question! Greg http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=812805&rss=1 Fri, 11 Jun 2004 22:38 GMT Hi all. Does anyone know if the side glass in the 120-series cars is flat, or does it have some curvature? Just a curiousity, as I was thinking about replacing especially the rear side glass in my 1966 P220 (wagon) with tinted laminated safety glass. I was also thinking about deleting the side vent windows in the front doors and also the rear multi-pane glass in the rear side doors with single panes. I would envision the front to become like the 240-series, with a small triangular patch where I would fit the mirrors, and the rear would be again similar to 240's, but possibly would only roll down a short way due to the shape of the door. If anyone has tried this or has comments, I'd love to hear it. Regards, Greg Sievert Sunny Melbourne Australia http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=812512&rss=1 Fri, 11 Jun 2004 09:39 GMT Hi Ron - thanks for the information. Yes, it is a momentary hiccup when you flash the high-beam lights or with a couple other relays - including the A/C relays that are used with the Vintage Air system Dad has installed. I will be leaving to head back to AUS tomorrow so we will not have time to test your theories with the capacitors & diodes before I leave, but I will forward the info on to Dad's e-mail and maybe he can try it. I do believe your theory has a lot of merit, and I've convinced Dad to try a known good ECU to see if the problem still occurs. Unfortunately, many of the ECU's could suffer similar symptoms given they are all old. Funny thing is, most seem to be trouble free, so I am still wondering if there's some way that the circuitry that protects the computer could have been inadvertently damaged when Dad had some welding done on the car a while back. Regards, Greg http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=715914&rss=1 Mon, 1 Dec 2003 15:39 GMT Well....the car is modified, so I can't say much except that he has a new alternator with internal regulator. I measured the computer supply voltage with a multimeter while the relay is being cycled - no blips or spikes that the analog multimeter can detect. I don't know if that is useful information however. I am leaning more and more towards a problem with the ECU itself. This could be confirmed I suppose with the detailed electronic tests provided in one of the answers received here (connecting diodes, capacitors etc) but I think we will just try it with another ECU. Thanks! Greg http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=715908&rss=1 Mon, 1 Dec 2003 15:34 GMT Well, I think this problem has us stumped and we're giving up! Not only is it the high-beams that cause the problem, but also switching almost any relay in the car. The computer is far away from the high-beam relay, so I find it hard to believe the relay itself is the cause - must be some inductive current loop throughout the body of the car or something. I have a feeling maybe the computer is degraded. Next step is trying it with a known good computer that I think Dad can get his hands on from a friend here in Houston. I've never wasted so much time trying to fix a problem without being able to find a solution! Greg http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=715688&rss=1 Mon, 1 Dec 2003 00:29 GMT Thanks Colin. Unfortunately Dad doesn't have a spare 1800E computer lying around. I do know now that it is something about the high-beam relay. I think its pulsing is causing electromagnetic interference with the computer, because moving the wire away from the computer eliminates the symptoms. We did try a different headlight relay (another used one) and it caused the same symptoms. When I hooked up a newer single relay, I couldn't replicate the symptoms. Of course the new relay wasn't made for hi-lo beams, so it doesn't have the see-saw action in it. Very strange.... Greg http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=715539&rss=1 Sun, 30 Nov 2003 16:12 GMT Thanks for the tip. I think we will double-check the computer ground. We made sure the headlight flasher switch was grounded, and also put a new ring terminal on the computer & other FI grounds on the intake manifold. We also ran a ground from there directly to the battery negative terminal - still no luck. I'm leaning now toward some sort of electromagnet interference because Dad has moved the computer from its original location that was somewhat isolated from other electrical circuits to an area under the dash where there are a lot of wires, new relays, etc. When we pulled the computer out and layed it on the driver's footwell, we could get the symptoms to go away if we moved the headlight flasher wire far away from the computer. When we brought the wire back close to the computer, the symptoms came back.....of course the elctrical interference could be exacerbated by a poor ground somewhere. We even grounded the computer case back to the neg terminal on the batt with jumper cables - that should be a good ground! Greg http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=715537&rss=1 Sun, 30 Nov 2003 16:09 GMT Ok, we've tried everything, so I am resorting to the experts! Here's the situation: 1970 1800E. Car starts & runs fine. When the bright lights are flashed or engaged or disengaged, the car briefly sputters when the stalk is released. Upon doing further diagnosis, it appears that the computer is instantaneously shutting down. The reason I say this is because with the car off, you can switch on the ignition and hear the fuel pump relay (and pump) turn on for approx 1-1.5 secs. Then, without starting the car, if you flash the bright lights, the pump relay and pump run again for 1-1.5 secs. As far as I can tell, this is the indication that the computer thinks that it has just been turned on, and it should "prime" the fuel pump. We have tried everything, including checking the FI ground wires, separately powering the computer (bypassing relay), checking for momentary power drop in the feed line to the computer, even totally isolating all FI harness wires and only powering and grounding the computer. The result is the same - when bright light stalk is flashed, upon returning to the "home" position, the computer "resets" and pulses power to the pump relay for 1-1.5 secs. I'm stumped, and will be headed back to Australia on Tuesday, so really hope somebody has the clue so I can help Dad get the car put back together by then! Thanks you guys, and feel free to e-mail Dad directly at garysievert@swbell.net if you can discuss/chat one-on-one. Regards, Greg Sievert http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=715119&rss=1 Sat, 29 Nov 2003 03:36 GMT Hi all. I think I saw a 940 B230F engine with a serpentine accessory drive belt, and also it had an electric (instead of belt drive) cooling fan. Can anyone tell me what year the 940 switched to a serpentine belt? The reason I ask, is I want to convert my 88 240 (B230F) to a serpentine belt for a supercharger project. I'd like to get the pullies off one of the 940's to swap for the pullies on my B230F. Also, if anyone has part numbers and/or "microfiche" view of the pullies, please let me know. Thanks Greg http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=561004&rss=1 Mon, 16 Dec 2002 10:54 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/