http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=34499 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sun, 22 Nov 2009 11:32 GMT Sun, 22 Nov 2009 11:32 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Yeah it's off topic..But I'm on brickboard right now and I'm looking at the weather: Rain, 50 degrees. High 52. I don't want to work on cars today. Cold, wet cars are the worst... =( No, I don't work in one of those nice dealerships where everything is a nice 74 degrees. >< http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382479&rss=1 Wed, 28 Oct 2009 11:42 GMT Dang that stuff is kind of expensive. I like the checkerboard look that I gave to my girl's 240. I took checkerboard contact paper, cut it and put it where the reflective bumper tape usually goes. =) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382478&rss=1 Wed, 28 Oct 2009 11:41 GMT THIS IS HOW WE ARE GOING TO RULE OUT PISTON SLAP: In 15 minutes I will be starting my car up for work, I will start my girlfriend's car up as well and listen to the difference between the two B230 engines since hers has quite a loud piston slap. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382477&rss=1 Wed, 28 Oct 2009 11:37 GMT I'm so F*king offended omg ur so mean. Hahaha.. I think most people refer to cars in the female sense unless they're the early 1980s 240s...They look like they're men or something idk.. But that was funny reading nevertheless http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382433&rss=1 Wed, 28 Oct 2009 03:43 GMT Okay I'm going to go out on a limb here and be my usual abrasive self. Piston Slap is the phenomenon of when the piston rattles sideways on the wall of the piston bore. The noise you hear is the piston actually hitting the side of the wall on the piston bore. The sound gets quieter when the block warms up because the clearance between the piston to cylinder is reduced. Sounds scary right? I bought a 1991 240 with 214,000 miles on it with a VERY loud piston slap. 288,000 miles later I sold it because I moved to Florida. It's still on the road today in Vermont with over 330K. I wouldn't say it's harmless but dude, it's not worth replacing the engine. It's a common problem in these B230 engines, so you could go through all of the trouble rebuilding it or getting a used engine and it's just going to do it again. No, synthetic or $15 a bottle "premium" oil isn't going to make the sound better, it's metal hitting metal at an extraordinarily hard force. Put 10w 30 in it along with a Fram oil filter when you do the oil change and enjoy driving it. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382424&rss=1 Wed, 28 Oct 2009 03:18 GMT I might get crucified on this one but I've worked on many 940s with the B230FT engine and honestly I didn't see the "Pep" of the Turbocharger. Perhaps I didn't because during those times I owned a 450HP Jaguar. If your engine is fine, why go through all the time replacing it for like an extra 80HP? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382418&rss=1 Wed, 28 Oct 2009 03:01 GMT My stupid internet went out on me so I wasn't even able to elabourate on my question. I doubt it's a piston slap because the sound is the same no matter if the block is warm or cold. There isn't any black smoke of the such coming out from the tailpipe so I know there isn't anything wrong with the pistons. Rod noise? I don't think its rod noise because it doesn't sound loud enough to be rod noise. Rod noise is inconspicuous even when it 1st starts, because rod noise is violent, and this isn't violent. I haven't done any engine work to this car. I think I'll know more when I pull the valve cover off. I mean guys, don't these engines kind of sound like diesel engines anyways? My girlfriend's does but that's because it has a piston slap. =) Perhaps a good remedy for this situation is to pull the valve cover off, see if I see anything and since it needs an oil change relatively soon, put thicker grade oil in it? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382398&rss=1 Wed, 28 Oct 2009 01:13 GMT Now that the car starts up every time and idles (relatively) normally, I couldn't help but notice the unique sound my engine is making. I've had 8 240s and I've A.) Never owned a 240 with this low mileage (117K) and B.) Never heard this sound from a gas 240 engine. It straight up sounds like a quieter sounding Mercedes 200 and 300 series diesel engine, no if's and's or but's about it. The engine makes a metallic "Nok" sound. Whisper the word "nok" but with a soft "k" over and over again and that's what the sounds like. Engine oil colour is okay and the sound isn't louder upon cold start and gets progressively quieter as the engine warms up which rules out piston slap. Uhhhh...Any suggestions? The engine sound isn't a violent sound, it's like the engine is saying "Hey I'm louder than normal because I'm different." or something. I don't know...This is weird! I tried recording it on a camera but yeah...The sound on the camera/computer doesn't even sound like the sound coming from the engine. (How many times can I use the word "sound" in one sentence, eh?" I usually wouldn't care about it, but I'm already planning 5 months down the road here wondering if this car should come with me or go to a 240 enthusiast in New England when I move. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382341&rss=1 Tue, 27 Oct 2009 20:05 GMT Yeah as long as the filter securely fits onto the threads, the size really doesn't matter unless it's grossly larger/smaller. I've done that a couple of times at the shop where I work at where the customer is waiting for their car and we don't have the oil filter in stock. You're fine, just use it. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379631&rss=1 Thu, 15 Oct 2009 17:37 GMT Yeah I tried that too. Here I'll break down a long story: I have two 240s - a 1983 and a 1986. I figured a no-start on my '86 would be either because of the ignition coil, ignition computer, faulty distributor rotor/cap or wires or fouled spark plugs. ( I was trying to be optimistic even though I knew it was more than that.) So I took all of that stuff out of my '83 because I knew it all worked as the car ran and drove, and I put it in my '86 and thus this post started because it (The '86) wouldn't start. On Thursday, I decided that maybe I could just drive my '83 and fix up the '86 in my spare time so I put all of the afforementioned parts back into the '83...Well the '83 ran so terribly, I got really pissed off...So0o0o0o...All of those parts went BACK into the '86 and I left it overnight. On Friday I decided I would do an injector test, so I unplugged one of the injectors, plugged in one of those injector lights and voila it started right up and has been running great ever since. I have NO idea how and why it's running right now...All I know is it's running and that's all that matters! haha http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379099&rss=1 Tue, 13 Oct 2009 02:57 GMT Thanks Matt! I will do that tomorrow! ...Err check that...Once I finally get the car registered, but I bookmarked this question. Btw I love your signature. =) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379095&rss=1 Tue, 13 Oct 2009 02:49 GMT Thanks for the help guys! But...Will I be able to use those Girling calipers in the rear instead of the ATE?? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378998&rss=1 Mon, 12 Oct 2009 19:06 GMT Thanks for the help guys! But...Will I be able to use those Girling calipers in the rear instead of the ATE?? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378997&rss=1 Mon, 12 Oct 2009 19:06 GMT Thank you for all of your help on trying to get my 1986 240. It randomly started on Thursday and has been running great since??? *Shrugs* Anyways now that it runs and drives great, I was driving around and noticed the rear calipers are seized...Well good news is I now have a parts car as my 1983 244 has bitten the dust... I think the 83 has girling calipers and I'm pretty sure my 86 has ATE calipers. What exactly IS the difference between the two? And if I'm going to replace the rear calipers, does it really matter if they're girling or ATE? I've never replaced 240 calipers before...So I'm kinda in the dark about the whole caliper difference thing... Thanks in advance! -Eric -1986 244DL, 117K. 1991 244, 255K (Girlfriend's) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378944&rss=1 Mon, 12 Oct 2009 16:06 GMT Okay I'm half awake but I want to tackle this question as there are a few things I want to mention : -You don't need a filter for this deck. -You don't need a fuse for this deck. You have a fuse already on your fuse block so if something shorts out, that fuse will blow. You're just making life a lot harder on yourself by adding things in that you honestly don't need. As for doubling up speaker wires.... BAD...BAD... Do NOT double up the speaker wires...All of the speaker wires need to be segregated from another or they'll sound like garbage. The easiest way to figure out what speaker is which is this way: Example: Wire two wires from the right font speaker together. Turn the deck on and listen to a song. Adjust the balance...If it gets louder when you have it set to fade into the back, then those are the wires for a rear speaker. If the sound gets quieter when you put the balance onto the right hand side, you know those are wires for the left hand side. Get a test light to figure out which wire is always hot, which one is the accessory one and ground is black. Oh...I just found out that you only have 2 speakers...Well it's even easier now. Just heed my advice and you'll be done in 15 minutes. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378243&rss=1 Fri, 9 Oct 2009 03:06 GMT Throttle Body Cleaner and/or Carb. Cleaner work like a charm. =) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378238&rss=1 Fri, 9 Oct 2009 02:47 GMT Well Paul it's a shame you didn't bet me money because you would've lost out on some cash because it didn't start (of course) and it's really starting to piss me the &*%# off. I spent a good 30 minutes making that bypass thingy too and I heard the fuel pumps kick on along with everything in the ignition (Tested it too.) but it just sat there cranking and cranking like a f#@%stick. Maybe I need to sit down with it and have a nice, long talk with it...Maybe if I show it my 1983 244 and me driving it and loving it it'll make it jealous and it'll say "Hey, I'm jealous that you're driving another 240...you can drive me instead." Or maybe if I do that, it will give juice to fuse #4 or maybe it'll be like "Hey I'll supply fuel through the main fuel line instead of it being dry when you open those two bolts." Probably not...It'll just sit there cranking, pissing me off more and more every time the damned engine turns over. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378035&rss=1 Thu, 8 Oct 2009 03:47 GMT I agree Carlos. I pretty much removed the whole ignition system to try to get my '86 running (To no avail of course...) and 15 minutes worth of work later to my '83 putting it back in and presto He started right up. I have the alternator belt on way too tight though, the belt's smoking and it's on there so tight it's leaking anti-freeze...So I hope I didn't just roast the water pump. My shop is 3 miles down the road so tomorrow I'll just drive it up there and loosen up the belt...Plus I think I figured out where the leak is. I think this car is invaluable because the way my '86 is looking, it's gonna take a while to get her running. They don't make cars like they used to, eh???!!??? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378032&rss=1 Thu, 8 Oct 2009 03:21 GMT I would suggest replacing the wiper motor first as my 1983 does that, my old 1986, 88 and 87 did that as well until I replaced the motor. If that doesn't work, I would suggest replacing the wiper switch. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377789&rss=1 Wed, 7 Oct 2009 04:34 GMT Mmmm yummy... Nothing beats the smell of burning - especially when it's plastic...Mmmmm I'd say you might've munched your OD relay by crossing the + and - wires. I would suggest pulling out your OD relay and well, if it smells of burt plastic, you need a new one! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377787&rss=1 Wed, 7 Oct 2009 04:32 GMT Check to make sure your O2 sensor is plugged in. If it is, I would suggest starting the car up and checking to see if you're getting current to the O2 sensor with a test light. If you are, you need a new O2 sensor...If not, you might've gaffed up the O2 sensor wiring somewhere. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377786&rss=1 Wed, 7 Oct 2009 04:25 GMT So my Flock of Seagulls era 244 is just sitting in my driveway now that I've purchased an '86 and was going to be my parts car...But MAN I can't just let this car go. It starts RIGHT up EVERY FREAKIN TIME I crank it. Yeah it's leaking transmission fluid quite badly which could be something as simple as transmission lines, rear main seal or something as complicated as an output shaft. But it RUNS and DRIVES....Well it doesn't really drive that well... The power steering is disconnected along with the air conditioning because three (3) auto parts companies couldn't send me the right friggin belts so my alternator squeals horribly as well because they only sent me one correct belt for the alternator and harmonic balancer. It needs new upper strut mounts and a brake junction box as well but once again it runs and drives. Would you guys suggest I just keep it and drive it instead of breaking it down? I don't think I could bear to either A. Sell it or B. Break it down. The body is in "C" condition as yes it does have rust in the common areas. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377785&rss=1 Wed, 7 Oct 2009 04:23 GMT Hope I'm not too late to help you out here. I'm quite familiar with emissions testings as Rhode Island is quite strict with their rules and regs...>< Do you know when was the last time you replaced your Catalytic Converter? They're imperative in regards to how much harmful substances your brick releases in the air. O2 sensors would cause your car to run rich and it's fairly noticeable. Does your car have rich smelling exhaust? If so that could very well be your answer. Hope this helps! -Eric http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377783&rss=1 Wed, 7 Oct 2009 04:05 GMT Dan, We've got spark to the plugs and coming from the distributor. My boss and I worked on the car for a good two hours, here's what we found: -No current to fuse #4. No current to the connectors that the wires connect into, or the two wires that connect into fuse #4 either. -Fuel pumps turn on when fuse #4 is bypassed. Car still will not start with fuel pumps running. -Wiring harness by the firewall was deteriorated. -Fuel pump relay is good. I rewired the wiring harness and I'm completely confused as to why fuse #4 isn't getting power. I checked the 25 amp fuse and the connection is good and it is getting current. My boss said something about the "Oil Sending Switch faking out the car making it think the engine isn't running, it was common with these cars." Although he has good intentions, I'm almost certain he meant the crankshaft position sensor? Is that what we're looking at here? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377780&rss=1 Wed, 7 Oct 2009 03:55 GMT A long,long time ago I had a 1986 244 that had the same problem. This was before I was competent with cars so I had it towed to my mechanic who said all it needed was a new Air Mass Meter. I didn't believe him, so he took me outside and plugged one in that he had sitting around in the shop and voila it worked. I still didn't believe him and told him to junk the car. *Sigh* I Miss that car...But that sounds like your problem. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377536&rss=1 Tue, 6 Oct 2009 11:44 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/