http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=32906 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sun, 22 Nov 2009 05:54 GMT Sun, 22 Nov 2009 05:54 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Simply my interpretation of what one should look like. I love them all - event he greasy ones with lots of character. Craig http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1353746&rss=1 Fri, 12 Jun 2009 04:56 GMT Thanks for the complements and getting this thread back on topic - labour of love to be sure. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1353745&rss=1 Fri, 12 Jun 2009 04:54 GMT Rhys soldered the decel valves shut - the rest is me. So what you are saying is that we got it close right out of the box. I'll take that as a complement (as should Rhys who gave me advice on the needle selection). Sure, there is more to tuning to do - so what. When does the tuning end? The rods and pistons were acquired as they are lighter than stock, improve dwell at TDC, have the rings closer to the top of the piston etc. The bottom end on the B20 block that I bought had the '75 rods - which as the heaviest and weakest rods that the B20 ever came with. Surely you'd have changed them out in a performance engine? Can we just let this thread die? It is rather pointless and off topic. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1353744&rss=1 Fri, 12 Jun 2009 04:51 GMT This is getting a little repetitious - but they are running BBB needles, have been ported to clean up the casting irregularities, have the decel valves soldered shut, and have the leading edge of the piston chamfered to fit the opening. I could taper the throttle shafts, but this is not a race engine. This will likely start some further debate about my (and Rhys's) modifications being no good. But the proof is sitting in the bank as cash I didn't spend on fuel on this trip. I'm very happy with the performance and when I get a chance, I'll put it on my wideband and go for a drive and see if the AFR's are what I want. I just haven't had a chance as I'm getting it ready for paint. I'll indulge in more tuning when that job is done. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1352078&rss=1 Wed, 3 Jun 2009 23:55 GMT Easy now gents... Paul, sure I had a few questions for a set of carbs that were causing some unforseen problems, that I should have caught and didn't. But I don't think to characterise this as being a simple to solve problem by a newbie would be fair. I've set up my fair share of SU's. These are not STOCK HIF's for heaven's sake, although the distributor is stock and I really should play with the curve. I have enjoyed our conversations off-line - and have benifited from the collective experience on the board. Knowledge and opinions are all fine with me, in fact that's why I'm here. Let's take one giant step back from the keyboard and relax for a bit. Craig, P.S. Only my student's call me Dr. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1351966&rss=1 Wed, 3 Jun 2009 16:40 GMT While I get what you're saying. Who luggs a new engine (I've never been known to sit a WOT in the wrong gear). For those that don't know the geography of my trip, this is an adventure that goes through the rockies and down to the coast, so basically 1/3 of the driving was in the mountains. No point in trying to hold on to OD, when the drop to 4th gives ample power. There were only a couple of times when this was necessary. At the speeds we were running on the way home (80 + MPH) the engine is in it's sweet spot and pulls up hills without question or complaint. This is not an average B20 for power (the power band (torque curve) feels very broad and flat). I've not dyno'ed it yet, but I would hazard a guess that it would put around 140 hp down at the rear wheels. Litterally gobs of power, get it up around 3000 rpm and just hold on (I did have a self-imposed redline of 4500 as I was breaking it in). So if this was a regular B18 or B20 with 60 - 80 hp a the rear wheels, then the gearing talk makes sense. You'd be hunting for the right gear all the time, not so with this set-up. There is no problem down low either, so first gear is not too tall. I only went from 4.10 to 3.73 - not to 3.08 or 2.73 which I would consider tall. Sure it is a drop, but not a totally outrageous one. I drove it around lots of hilly stuff in town and had no problems and didn't have to slip the clutch (and my p-brake is not really all that functional - so no p-brake starts were even attempted). You've got to move fast from the brake to the gas, but it didn't mind one bit. I'm not trying to be argumentative, but I find random comments like "Keeping it out of the red will be a bit more difficult with this sort of gearing." when the evidence does not support the comment is more dogma than information. Craig http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1351747&rss=1 Tue, 2 Jun 2009 16:12 GMT How the heck would 4.10's deliver better economy? Are we breaking laws of physics now? How is 3.73 too tall? The performance does not suffer at all. Random thoughts are always welcome. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1351656&rss=1 Tue, 2 Jun 2009 01:49 GMT That's a lot of questions for a single post. The tires are 205-50 R17's. The suspension is from VPD and Bilstein with an additional coil cut off the front of the 250-500 lbs/inch progressives on the front (145 lbs/in rear springs). Standard bilstein's. IPD front and rear sways with SuperPro poly bushings all round. Handles great now that I've got he front end aligned. The engine mods are rather extensive (or was that expensive!), including B21 FT crank, h-beam rods (longer than stock), custom forged pistons (shorter than stock) (tight squish) a lightened flywheel, VPD head and street performer cam, '75 240 electronic ignition, re-worked HIF SU's by Island Automotion, Ported and polished exhaust and intake manifold, steel timing gears, ARP head studs, and about a thousand little things. The power makes it way to the ground through an M41 with a 240 rear end with 3.73 gears. A custom built 2.25" stainless mandrel bent exhaust with a couple of magnaflow mufflers keep it "quiet". That's about all I can think of - it's still a work in progress. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1351296&rss=1 Sun, 31 May 2009 00:19 GMT I've never cut the bump stops...but then my springs in the front are rather stiff. That is why I said to have a look at the spring rate. If it is soft, then your car may sit on the bump stops during cornering, not what you want. If that is the case, cut them by the same amount that the spring dropped the car. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1350748&rss=1 Wed, 27 May 2009 16:12 GMT Ditto - great to put faces to names. We'll be there again with new paint (getting that going this weekend). http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1350747&rss=1 Wed, 27 May 2009 16:10 GMT Not much to it RJ, you just need to release the upper ball joint (with jack under the lower control arm), undo the shock from the top then lower the jack to release the spring tension. The shock can then be detached from the lower control arm (it's obvious) and changed. Sometimes you need to smack the upper ball joint mount a little to get it to release. Make sure the lowering springs have a reasonable spring rate. Dale had trouble with his lowering springs as they were pretty soft. The Bils are harder to install than the springs (the rears springs are super easy, drop the retaining straps, lower the diff, and yank them out). The shocks are very stiff and hard to get installed - it takes a fair bit of speed to get them in. I first compress the shocks as much as I can by hand and very quickly set them in place. If they rebound too fast, you'll have to struggle with them. They are definitely not like the stockers that can be installed without trouble. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1350674&rss=1 Wed, 27 May 2009 04:29 GMT Thanks - I'm picking up paint for the door jams and trunk tomorrow. I'm going to try to get them painted this weekend. Then the entire car is getting a fresh coat of paint. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1350669&rss=1 Wed, 27 May 2009 04:19 GMT This may be the one you've seen (see my other post). This is POR-15 plus POR engine enamel sprayed on a polished block. <img src="http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/14428-2/HPIM0764.JPG"> <br> <img src="http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/14434-2/HPIM0766.JPG"> Craig http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1350523&rss=1 Tue, 26 May 2009 05:10 GMT The block was carefully polished in advance of painting. It took a couple of days to get it where I wanted it, but it was worth the work. The engine finish is POR-15 engine paint following the instructions gives a great finish that is, so far, very durable. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1350521&rss=1 Tue, 26 May 2009 05:01 GMT Thanks - that's the look I've been shooting for. We were going to give a prize to people at the show that could list the largest number of things wrong with the car from a stock stand point. That's the fun part, building in many little details that are wrong, but right. The boys at R-Sport International called the car's design "actively lazy". In other words, I've done a lot of things like polishing the outside of the engine block that allow me to be lazy later. Going to a car show 1000 miles away and just having to quickly hose off the block for it to shine is the concept. The rest of the car is just about getting some of the little things on the detail side working. Bumpers, grills, mirrors, interior, under hood. There is more to come. Paint it next. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1349686&rss=1 Wed, 20 May 2009 06:18 GMT The seats are from a 242 front and rear. Getting the rears to fit is a bit of work and the entire project is covered in the archives somewhere. The seat bottom fits right in. The fronts need adapting, but are very similar to 122 seats and a little more plentiful when your old ones wear out. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1349684&rss=1 Wed, 20 May 2009 06:09 GMT Hi Chris, I didn't put two and two together either - we should wear badges at these events. Kawanda - that's the place...didn't stop in for an ale there, but we've remedied that oversight at many other watering holes. I must say - Oregon has wine and beer to die for. Craig http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1349683&rss=1 Wed, 20 May 2009 06:07 GMT I thought I'd start a thread on my latest adventures with the 122. After Rhys got the carbs sorted, I had to make a quick trip (120 mies one way) in the pouring rain to pick up my front bumper from the chrome plater. Got home at around midnight, then up early the next day for a quick oil change and jet off out the door to drive almost 800 miles to get to the IPD Garage Sale. Met a few BB people at the show - tuned the 122 parked beside me - great time. The car made it all the way without a hitch (well, the angle drive broke and the temp switch for the e-fan died) - but aside from that everything was fine. The HIF's are great (need to recurve the distributor) - over the total trip, I'm averaging 31 US MPG (that's 35 MPG of the Queen's gallons - for the Canadians, I got 8L/100KM). Spectacular for a performance car with gobs of power. Here she is: <img src="http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/17456-1/HPIM0948.JPG"><p> <img src="http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/17460-2/HPIM0949.JPG"><p> Yesterday, we tooled around the Oregon Coast in the 122 - great time and we got to do what I've wanted to do since I saw Dale's photo's of the 960 on the beach...we drove the 122 on the beach! First attempt had us stuck and we had to unload the car and drive out. We then spotted Haystack rock (don't recall the beach name) from the highway and pulled a U-turn and went back. The day had changed from sunny to overcast and the pictures are (I think) stunning. <img src="http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/17469-1/HPIM0990.JPG"><p> <img src="http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/17475-1/HPIM0992.JPG"><p> <img src="http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/17478-1/HPIM0994.JPG"><p> <img src="http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/17484-1/HPIM0998.JPG"><p> Thanks for all the help getting me here guys. Craig http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1349508&rss=1 Tue, 19 May 2009 15:36 GMT Yup - no more FPR. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1348401&rss=1 Tue, 12 May 2009 00:33 GMT How do you fix SU HIF's? You send them to Rhys Kent (http://www.sucarburetors.com/), that's how. They now work just fine. The throttle shafts were leaking (new seals were not the answer) and the decel valves had weak springs as predicted. The bushings were replaced with the stock SU replacement part (as Rhys does to all his carbs) and the decel valves were soldered shut with some very nicely fabricated block off plates (copper). They will now hold a consistent idle and are simple to tune -just as the manual describes. Lucky for me my throttle shafts were fine and only the bushings were toast. So for those that are looking for the solution to their SU woes, this tread serves as my testimonial. A little wear on the shafts (10 to 15 thou) is too much and decel valves that are 40 years old are a bad idea (probably a bad idea 40 years ago). I tried spraying carb clean, quick start and every thing else in my garage (propane etc) and I couldn't detect the leaky shafts. There is enough springs and other junk in the way that this may be the reason why there was no leak detected, it may also be that they were so far off, that a little more "fuel" made no difference to the idle! Off idle response is very quick, and they return to idle very nicely. I can't say much about the economy as I've been "breaking-in" the engine. Rhys was very willing to work extra hard on my project as I had a tight time line (under a week). This sort of dedication is exactly what we need to support around here. Craig http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1348296&rss=1 Mon, 11 May 2009 02:46 GMT 242 seats fit and work nicely and don't spoil the Volvo look of the car (not that others do). Here's mine. <img src="http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/gallery/d/10077-2/Canuck_Front_Seats.jpg"> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1348288&rss=1 Mon, 11 May 2009 02:31 GMT There is nothing weird about the heating system. All of the parts including grommets and bumpers are available if you are doing a complete rebuild. Make sure the drain goes back in the trans tunnel when you put it all back together. Craig http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1347983&rss=1 Fri, 8 May 2009 16:03 GMT Thanks, good to know. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1347516&rss=1 Tue, 5 May 2009 19:38 GMT Ok, just for giggles, lets start off with a few facts. A performance engine is more than just an assembly of various parts. You have to think of it as a system. Therefore, there is little point to worrying about a cam grind of any design (vintage or other) unless you have the system figured out. I know that Phil and John P. agree with me on this point. There is not much point to guessing on a cam in your set-up. You could end up with something that is not what you want. Either Phil's cam or John's would be good choices given your stated use for the engine. As for the head, I would do as was suggested and make sure that all the volume is not taken out of the head - but keep some of that volume and deck the block. My B20 needed 0.020" to get a zero deck - I further modified this to get the pistons to come 0.004" out of the block to get the squish as tight as I could. The dual springs people are alluding to are a stock Isky part (pn 625-626) and are meant for a small block Olds. You'll need retainers etc - again all from Isky. They aren't all that expensive compared to the rest of what you're proposing. The lifters have been covered. Again, stock replacement parts for other engines. They work fine. For what you are proposing, the stock FI exhaust manifold is fine (just port it and get the restrictions out of it. I've done several of these and it doesn't take much to make them pretty darn good. A header is going to help out up high in the rev range, but the stock manifold is pretty good. Sorry if this is preachy, but when I saw Strombergs and performance in the same thread I wondered. Craig http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1347265&rss=1 Mon, 4 May 2009 04:34 GMT Hi Justin, Welcome to the board. The person your looking for is Olof at Vintage Import Parts - he'll have a set of rotors for you . Craig http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1347261&rss=1 Mon, 4 May 2009 04:10 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/