http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=32818 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sun, 22 Nov 2009 04:53 GMT Sun, 22 Nov 2009 04:53 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Try here: <a href="http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EnginePerformanceSymptoms.htm">http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EnginePerformanceSymptoms.htm</a> Look up in the RH corner for the dropdown and go to the 700/900 FAQ. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387411&rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 23:01 GMT Good call - likely due for a solder. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387376&rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 19:32 GMT An '88 244 with a five speed. Was on craigslist for $150 with new tires and 'a broken timing belt and needs a new water pump'. The owner had the car in the shop not long before the no-start, where he was told that the timing belt and water pump were due. When the car failed to start, he assumed it was that and found other transport. In reality, timing belt is okay (due for changing, but not broken) and the water pump was an 'while we're in there' recommendation. Been sitting for about eight months. A little bit of surface oxidation at the bottom of the rocker that would need seeing to, but the body was otherwise quite solid looking. Grey fabric interior, about 160k on the clock, engine looked a bit dirty and PS pump leaks enough to need filling weekly, though he has a junkyard pull in the trunk to replace it. Basically a no-start - turns over but mystery otherwise. The guy just assumed it was the timing belt and parked it. Will check blade and regular fuses, hall sensor quick test, clean up the throttle body and IAC, new plugs, cap, rotor, check fuel pressure regulator, change the oil, check the fluids and see what happens. What other obvious checks am I missing? Most familiar with LH2.4 systems... Cheers, Zach '88 244 w/~160k mi & '90 245 w/279k+ mi http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387361&rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 18:19 GMT Yes, the vent buttons are actuated via a vacuum bottle in the dash. That bottle is connected to the hose that goes from the inlet manifold, passes through a small checkvalve (black or half black, half white), and through the firewall. Typically the checkvalve is the point of failure, but the hoses could split as well. Do you hear a, 'hsssssssssss' when you shut the car off? If so, time for a new $20 checkvalve. Zach Anchorage, AK 1990 245 w/279k mi http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386059&rss=1 Fri, 13 Nov 2009 17:56 GMT If all the maintenance is up to date... $500 - 1500 depending on finding the right buyer and how well things are documented for the sale. If it's yours (or a relation's) and you're in Iowa... DSM, Iowa City or Ames will net you the highest price, most likely. Age, or perceived age, unfortunately, will work against you. Advertising it on the classifieds here, on IPD, and other sites with specific 240 interest will help. Were I still in Iowa, I'd give it a look. Otherwise, give this guy in Ames an email - <a href="http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1338941/220/240/260/280/brace_brick_cheap.html">Luke H</a>. Cheers, Zach Anchorage, Alaska 1990 245 w/278k mi http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1376009&rss=1 Tue, 29 Sep 2009 18:59 GMT I broke that rule for 4000 miles from IA to AK in 2005. Sure, OD was clicked off while going up steep grades, but for the majority of the trip, OD on and no problems. Fluid looked and smelled fine on arrival as well. Your mileage may vary. Zach http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1374858&rss=1 Thu, 24 Sep 2009 23:36 GMT Don't know anything about the outfit, but one option if you can't find the 3M tape - <a href="http://www.volvogue.com/Volvogue_Reflective_Bumper_Striping.php"> Volvogue - http://www.volvogue.com/Volvogue_Reflective_Bumper_Striping.php</a> Probably a bit more expensive than the 3M tape, though it is cut to size. NFI. Cheers, Zach Anchorage, Alaska 1990 245 w/278k mi http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1374795&rss=1 Thu, 24 Sep 2009 17:04 GMT You don't need an entire cluster to fix a broken odometer. The white plastic gear inside the cluster can get stripped with age. See here: <a href="http://www.hyperocity.com/volvo240/volvoodometer.htm"> Volvo 240 Odometer Repair</a> and here <a href="http://www.odometergears.com/">replacement gears</a> for more information. NFI for me on either site. Cheers, Zach Zaletel http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1374396&rss=1 Tue, 22 Sep 2009 19:38 GMT It should swap one to one for any given year (and generally cluster model number - you should have K9800 or K10020, I think?). The odometer gearing may be different based on different stock wheel sizes for wagons versus sedans - can anyone confirm that or am I just making assumptions where there are none to be made? Zach Anchorage, Alaska 1990 245 w/278k mi http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1374381&rss=1 Tue, 22 Sep 2009 18:03 GMT I picked up a block heater from the dealership for my '90 last year for about $50 (parts only, no install). You could try them or Tasca, if you didn't want to go third party. Napa had options available as well. Cheers, Zach Zaletel http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1374111&rss=1 Mon, 21 Sep 2009 15:30 GMT In my experience on a '90 245, you can jumper with the fuses in place or removed - the jumper should be the shorter electrical path, so you'll hear the pumps running if they're operative. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1373923&rss=1 Sun, 20 Sep 2009 20:57 GMT I will second Ronald's suggestion and find a spare ECU to test. I had a no-hot restart that cropped up with a pink-label -561 ECU after 230k miles on my move to Alaska. Once we realized what was going on, we would leave the car idling during stops so that we could continue down the road, and only shut it off when we had an hour to kill somewhere or at the end of the day. That no-hot-restart morphed into a no-start about a month later (search my old posts for the whole saga). While all of the checks mentioned below are important and good general practice, this one is easy to check if you have a spare handy, though more difficult to diagnose without cracking the case on the ECU and probing individual components. If you have a -561 ECU, which is likely for an '89, there are a number of acceptable substitutes. I put together a table with the best information I could scrape together here: <a href="http://www.nuceng.ca/bill/volvo/database/ecu.htm">http://www.nuceng.ca/bill/volvo/database/ecu.htm</a> Basically, find a -933, -935, -946 or -951 ECU swap it with yours. If yours still has the original -561 ECU, consider yourself lucky and either pick up a spare for testing purposes or be proactive and replace it with a later, more reliable model. Best of luck, Zach Anchorage, Alaska 1990 245 w/278k mi http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1373454&rss=1 Fri, 18 Sep 2009 19:06 GMT All the mileage you could ever want... so long as you have all the time in the world to accelerate there: <a href="http://anchorage.craigslist.org/cto/1316876903.html">http://anchorage.craigslist.org/cto/1316876903.html</a> Almost tempted... but naaaah. Zach Anchorage, Alaska 1990 245 w/276k mi http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1365281&rss=1 Tue, 11 Aug 2009 06:42 GMT It is possible to remove a rear door panel with the door shut. It isn't easy, but I've done it, and I have to assume a number of others have as well. Beyond the normal steps to remove a rear door panel, you'll have to: Take rear seat bench out Remove the rubberized door trim Carefully work off the plastic trim at the bottom of the door threshold Work through the door handle rectangular hole to loosen off the plastic clips It's a bit of a pain, but it can be done. Best of luck! Zach Zaletel Anchorage, Alaska 1990 245 w/276k mi, ecodes, etc... http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1362960&rss=1 Thu, 30 Jul 2009 16:46 GMT Tips on rebuilding your seat here: <a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20080112100235rn_1/home.no.net/ebrox/">http://web.archive.org/web/20080112100235rn_1/home.no.net/ebrox/</a> (temporarily offline from it's normal home) and pictures of easy access to your seat heaters are here: <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/zachz/2113333537/">http://www.flickr.com/photos/zachz/2113333537/</a> <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/zachz/2114111192/">http://www.flickr.com/photos/zachz/2114111192/</a> As others said, unless you want to get into a decent amount of custom fabrication, you're better off sticking with the stock seats. Use google to search through the archives and you'll find a wealth of information and tips, though the first link above pretty much covers everything you'll want to know for the rebuild. Cheers, Zach 1990 245 w/276k mi http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1362219&rss=1 Sun, 26 Jul 2009 18:31 GMT We did wave hi, and you must've been there in spirit, as there was a light blue pre-86 245 fueling at the gas station right on the corner of the highway junction at 12:30am when we were driving back. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1359451&rss=1 Sun, 12 Jul 2009 17:55 GMT We'll say hi as we drive by today on our way to the Kenai to dipnet. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1359300&rss=1 Sat, 11 Jul 2009 16:27 GMT Four years in AK - your memory is impeccable. They don't use salt up here, but this car was originally from the east coast, and more recently Iowa, where they most certainly have used salt, at least until recently. A bit of remedial rust prevention, if you will. ;) Zach Zaletel Anchorage, Alaska 1990 245 w/275k mi http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1359219&rss=1 Sat, 11 Jul 2009 01:58 GMT <img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2445/3707760270_5c7b99f2e4.jpg"> And she keeps on rolling. I'll need to take a weekend and do some cleanup work, see to a few bushings, and a bit of rust prevention, but, knock on wood, all is well. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1359119&rss=1 Fri, 10 Jul 2009 17:30 GMT FWIW - the early 1990 model cars had the older style rocker switch for the AC rather than the on/off snowflake switch. Not sure if there was a change midyear or only with the introduction of the 1991 model. Zach Zaletel Anchorage, Alaska 1990 245 w/274k mi http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1355092&rss=1 Thu, 18 Jun 2009 16:34 GMT Yes, Iowa where the vicious corn and cows live? Huh? I'd rather be stuck in Iowa than Nebraska, Kansas or the Dakotas. ;) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1351133&rss=1 Fri, 29 May 2009 16:22 GMT Unless the car has the LH 3.1 FI computer system, yes, it mostly likely has a -016 AMM. A quick google search for "volvo amm table" turns up a handy resource I put together a few years ago... <a href="http://www.nuceng.ca/bill/volvo/database/ecu.htm">http://www.nuceng.ca/bill/volvo/database/ecu.htm</a> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1351004&rss=1 Thu, 28 May 2009 23:15 GMT NFI on my part - just came across while trolling craigslist - but looks nice: <a href="http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/1158123271.html">http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/cto/1158123271.html</a> <img src="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y128/hotrod325/IMG_2241.jpg"> <img src="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y128/hotrod325/IMG_2240.jpg"> <img src="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y128/hotrod325/IMG_2127.jpg"> <img src="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y128/hotrod325/IMG_2132.jpg"> <img src="http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y128/hotrod325/IMG_2237.jpg"> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1347823&rss=1 Thu, 7 May 2009 16:02 GMT Hi Joe - Your question wasn't written in the most clear fashion. Assuming you're asking, "if I install new e-code lamps, will I need different connectors for the bulbs?", then the answer is yes. You can either get some adapters which will plug into the existing light sockets and transfer the electricity to the H4 bulbs. http://www.danielsternlighting.com, run by Daniel Stern, has a good set of adapters that won't require you to cut existing wiring. You can also upgrade the wiring and relays - search the archives for extensive discussion of how to do that. Good luck, Zach Anchorage, Alaska 1990 245 w/273k mi and ecodes http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1347728&rss=1 Wed, 6 May 2009 23:16 GMT I fully agree that my cost estimates were conservative and you'd probably come in under the total amount, but for the sake of budgeting... http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1347554&rss=1 Tue, 5 May 2009 23:25 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/