http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=32402 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sun, 22 Nov 2009 04:21 GMT Sun, 22 Nov 2009 04:21 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. I would take it back out again and make sure it's lined up right and seated correctly. -- Wallie http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1362079&rss=1 Sat, 25 Jul 2009 22:37 GMT It almost sounds like an intercooler pipe is split or a leak on the air charge side rather than a turbo control issue where it's happening out of sync with going through the gears. -- Wallie http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1360473&rss=1 Fri, 17 Jul 2009 22:00 GMT Thank you Tapsa, I'm gonna get into it when I get the intake off and change out the pcv. -- Wallie http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1357782&rss=1 Thu, 2 Jul 2009 13:34 GMT I haven't had any noticeable change in the way the car runs, none at all. The car's a turbo wagon and the power hasn't changed at all during this time as I looked for that in driving it. I've had some problems with connections in the past that I've either remade or replaced, it's got 203k miles on it in New England !! This is my daily driver, I have a 97 R sedan also but it doesn't get out much cause it only likes sunny days. But being my daily driver I have to plan maintenance accordingly, I'm on vacation the last two weeks of the month here and was planning on doing the PCV then because it is original. Since I first posted I was able to come up with pictures of the sensors in a PCV write up over on VS. I'm wondering now where the connections terminate and if I can get at them to look at them etc. Not the point at which they enter the engine but where they connect beyond that or is that where I should be looking, at the block under the intake?? -- Wallie http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1357589&rss=1 Wed, 1 Jul 2009 15:13 GMT Well My check engine light came on this past Friday and I read the code and reset the ce light. Yeaterday it came back and with the same code. My experience with the "signal missing or faulty" has usually meant the sensor needs to be replaced unless there's more than one code thrown and then one can mask the other for the true cause of the ce or problem etc. My question is where are the knock sensors and how much of a job is it to diy and what should I have for tools etc? where's the best place to order the parts from too? Any help would be much appreciated. -- Wallie http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1357261&rss=1 Mon, 29 Jun 2009 20:02 GMT Sounds like you found the "udder' one alright, if you fish from the cockpit side you should come out right under the master cylinder iirc, it's been a while but that's about where you'd expect to come out. -- Wallie http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1317248&rss=1 Tue, 2 Dec 2008 04:51 GMT If you remove the knee bolster and get down behind the brake pedal there's a pass through form the cockpit to the engine bay. It's covered in the engine bay by a black rubber cap with three or four long nipples, all rubber just pull it off. Re-use it or not is up to you. -- Wallie http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1316533&rss=1 Fri, 28 Nov 2008 14:04 GMT You might want to check the rear fog light switch, make sure it's not in the on position with bulb being burnt out. It happened to me once and drove me crazy till I figured it out. -- Wallie http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1311974&rss=1 Mon, 3 Nov 2008 10:03 GMT It's Volvo yes except the numbers aren't entirely correct from my notes I've put together from on line. The correct data is 932 and 9437332, right off of the can. The name is anthracite silver. -- Wallie http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1310787&rss=1 Wed, 29 Oct 2008 00:38 GMT Paint code 932 p\n 9437335 This is the match for the Volans wheel and I'm pretty sure it's the same for the Titans -- Wallie http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1310424&rss=1 Mon, 27 Oct 2008 05:23 GMT I'll find out tomorrow when I do both lines...thanks again:) -- Wallie http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1263826&rss=1 Sun, 9 Mar 2008 20:08 GMT Yeah that's the one, it prys open and feels springy, I have a set of them along with the two hose clamps. That will happen to me no doubt, it'll pop off and I'll never find it:) It looks like there's two washers per fitting, a black O ring and w wider translucent washer. I'm hoping they're still on the end of the hose in their correct location so I'll have an idea of that. I'm hoping they're still there anyway, what is their orientation on the pipe, I haven't looked in the Haynes yet if it's in there. -- Wallie http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1263802&rss=1 Sun, 9 Mar 2008 18:10 GMT Hi Klaus, thanks for the reply. I was referring to the almost hollow rectangular type fastener that looks like it's under the hose clamp, if that description helps. You can see it at the radiator end. The other end I think is held on by two torx screws but I have to look closer at it. I'm hoping it's the O rings but it's probably inevitable that I'll have to change the hoses at 190K. -- Wallie http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1263791&rss=1 Sun, 9 Mar 2008 17:12 GMT My 855T oil cooler lines are starting to leak. I have new fittings and O rings that I want to see if they'll solve the problem before I go out and buy hoses. My question is that once the hose clamp is removed does the line just pull out and, what purpose does the secondary OEM clamp that's on there serve? Thank you -- Wallie http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1263767&rss=1 Sun, 9 Mar 2008 15:40 GMT Just an FYI as you go if you haven't already and in case you find an 850 at a "local dealer". The T5R was only made in 1995 for all that it came with inside and out and color scheme etc. In 1996 it would have been either a T5 or an R. -- Wallie http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1263597&rss=1 Sat, 8 Mar 2008 18:34 GMT Volvospeed.com There's at least one maybe two 850s being parted out in the fs forum. -- Wallie http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1252714&rss=1 Sun, 20 Jan 2008 21:06 GMT I used the car today after it had been sitting for a few months, (covered in the garage). When I turn the radio on it has all the appearance of coming on but says "OFF" in the display window? The antenna operates and the LED window backlights behind the "OFF" but that's it? I've never seen that before does anyone have any ideas?? -- Wallie http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1238532&rss=1 Sun, 2 Dec 2007 21:06 GMT Have you tried clearing the codes and then see what comes back? -- Wallie http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1238527&rss=1 Sun, 2 Dec 2007 20:55 GMT You might want to think about cleaning the throttle body, the butterfly could be sticking. They can get gummed up over time and have an impact on combustion air flow. -- Wallie http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1198374&rss=1 Thu, 12 Jul 2007 07:43 GMT You might want to think about cleaning the throttle body, the butterfly could be sticking. They can get gummed up over time and have an impact on combustion air flow. -- Wallie http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1198373&rss=1 Thu, 12 Jul 2007 07:43 GMT I just picked up a cluster off of ebay to replace the one in my 94 855T. My question is does anyone know if the odometer can be swapped out between the two because my wagon has a lot less miles on it than the new cluster has. Also the plastic window on the new is pretty scratched up where mine is in nice shape, are they interchangeable as well? What else can be changed on the "new" one before I swap them out? Thanks again. -- Wallie http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1198215&rss=1 Wed, 11 Jul 2007 18:51 GMT I saw three for sale today on swedespeed for a good price, I'm tempted myself! -- Wallie http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1192885&rss=1 Fri, 22 Jun 2007 03:40 GMT Once you have the folding panel and or third seat out then the last panel half lifts out iirc. You'll see the four bolts maybe 10-12mm in size. After you get the last panel unbolted you'll have full access to the top of the mounts. Good luck and have your hw ready just in case. Maybe you won't need it if things don't rust in your locale!? -- Wallie http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1184937&rss=1 Tue, 22 May 2007 16:06 GMT If you remove the rear folding access panel you gain access to the four bolts holding down the rear panel. In your case you might have to remove the third seat, I just have the folding panel. If you're lucky, the tac welded fasteners up inside the body that the upper shock mount fasten to won't snap off in removing or installing the new mounts. On both my 94 and 97 850s I ended up using new nuts and bolts back up in there because the tac welded stuff failed as I tried to replace the upper mounts. It might be a good idea to have replacement hardware on the ready, just in case. Or in case your luck is anything like mine. A pretty straight forward job otherwise. -- Wallie http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1184905&rss=1 Tue, 22 May 2007 12:51 GMT I'm hoping it's a relay myself but I haven't really got into it yet. I'm hoping it's something simple. I get nothing when I try to run it, no compressor kick in no anything. I've read before that if the system is too low on pressure that one of the relays will keep the compressor out. I thought I had a good system charge and I hjad it leak tested and serviced the end of last season but maybe I need a charge. Maybe others might have some ideas on it. -- Wallie http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1182365&rss=1 Fri, 11 May 2007 10:51 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/