Volvo: Gary L's Brickboard Posts

Volvo: Gary L's Brickboard Posts http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=32173 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 02:57 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 02:57 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 brickboard.com http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. [RWD] [140-160] 142s? -posted by- Gary L "Looks like an automatic 72 142E to me. Agreed... it was an everyday 142E automatic that was further degraded by removal of the D-Jet system. I don't understand why the seller put "242GT" in a couple of places in the ad; maybe that's a 242GT emblem on the RF fender??? In any case, I'm surprised no one has mentioned the clever use of the #2 and #3 injector ports. :-) -- Gary L - 142E ITB race car, 73 1800ES <a href='http://www.bluebrickracing.mysite.com'>BlueBrick Racing Website</a> <a href='http://www.youtube.com/user/denrael'>YouTube Racing Videos</a> (06:55am CST - edited to reflect correct port numbers) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387312&rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 12:09 GMT [RWD] [140-160] Blue Brick Racing Update -posted by- Gary L I'm afraid I'll not be towing to California for the Challenge. As much as I would love to run one of those events, the racing budget is somewhat limited, and I have a better use for the funds. That better use has to do with your other question... tires. I ran nothing but used Hoosier R6's this past year - "eBay specials" if you will, in 205/50-15 or 245/45/15 depending on what came up in the listings. Very cheap (usually around 50 bucks a tire with shipping), but as you are probably aware, Hoosiers "go away" after several heat cycles, and these tires had definitely all had the fast laps used up before I got them. :-( I am not going to do this again in 2010. With fresher rubber, I would most likely have captured the IT Tour title here in the Midwest Division. But with used tires, I was simply unable to stay with Chris Albin's VW Golf. I can keep him in sight, usually running less than a second per lap slower. In fact at Hallett, I actually beat him once and finished a very close 2nd to him in two other races. In any case, new rubber would have converted some of my 2nd place finishes to wins, absolutely no doubt in my mind. I did have 2 runnerup finishes that should have been wins (Albin wasn't around), but for mechanical problems. At Mid-America (Omaha) in April, I did the last several laps of a race in 3rd gear, having lost the ability to shift into 4th due to a loose shifter fork. I still beat 3 ITB cars (all VW's IIRC) to finish 2nd behind a Rabbit GTI. Durning my last race for the season at the same track in August, I had electrical problems of some kind (still haven't found the culprit, but suspect the alternator) that sucked a fully charged battery completely flat in about 8 laps. I completed enough laps to be considered a finisher though, and there were only 2 of us running ITB that day, so it was another 2nd place finish. :-) -- Gary L - 142E ITB race car, 73 1800ES <a href http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385090&rss=1 Mon, 9 Nov 2009 13:09 GMT [RWD] [140-160] Blue Brick Racing Update -posted by- Gary L Yupper, same type of event; this next one is at Laguna Seca IIRC. I will have to run one of these some day, but would prefer an event that is less than half a continent's tow. I need to talk them into coming to Hallett for the next one. :-) -- Gary L - 142E ITB race car, 73 1800ES <a href='http://www.bluebrickracing.mysite.com'>BlueBrick Racing Website</a> <a href='http://www.youtube.com/user/denrael'>YouTube Racing Videos</a> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385086&rss=1 Mon, 9 Nov 2009 12:25 GMT [RWD] [1800] How 'bout a good short block? -posted by- Gary L Good buy - IF it isn't stuck in one form or another. But FWIW, the engine couldn't have been rebuilt 45 years ago; there weren't any B20's extant in 1964. Maybe 35 years ago? Still a long time! Finally, with all due respect, I believe you would call that assembly a long block, not a short block. -- Gary L - 142E ITB race car, 73 1800ES <a href='http://www.bluebrickracing.mysite.com'>BlueBrick Racing Website</a> <a href='http://www.youtube.com/user/denrael'>YouTube Racing Videos</a> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384646&rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 10:02 GMT [RWD] [120-130] Enough knots for first place, at least... -posted by- Gary L "24.69" is the nominal diameter, but that diameter only happens when there is no load on the tyre." Which is why it is a good idea to use the "revs per mile" number provided by the tire manufacturer when available. IIRC, this number is typically measured with a nominal load on the tire, not calculated. -- Gary L - 142E ITB race car, 73 1800ES <a href='http://www.bluebrickracing.mysite.com'>BlueBrick Racing Website</a> <a href='http://www.youtube.com/user/denrael'>YouTube Racing Videos</a> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383832&rss=1 Tue, 3 Nov 2009 14:27 GMT [RWD] [120-130] Enough knots for first place, at least... -posted by- Gary L "What do you think of this size?" My best guess would be a Michelin TRX. Or possibly a TRX look-alike by some other manufacturer. If I'm not mistaken (and that's possible, due to perspective in the photo), the angle of the bead seat sorta gives this away as a TRX, even without looking at the size. I must admit though, I'm a little confused by the "15" in the size designator... 65 would be the nominal aspect ratio, and 390 (mm) would be the rim diameter, but the 15 has me scratching my head a little... 15 centimeters, making it a 150/65-390??? If so, gotta be a skinny-ass dirt or snow tire of some type. -- Gary L - 142E ITB race car, 73 1800ES <a href='http://www.bluebrickracing.mysite.com'>BlueBrick Racing Website</a> <a href='http://www.youtube.com/user/denrael'>YouTube Racing Videos</a> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383823&rss=1 Tue, 3 Nov 2009 13:49 GMT [RWD] [140-160] Blue Brick Racing Update -posted by- Gary L We've (finally!) updated our web pages to reflect this past season's activity, to include a bunch of new photo's taken this year. Click on the link in my sig below to see the updated pages. Here's a teaser: :-) <img src="http://www.bluebrickracing.mysite.com/images/apr09-11.jpg"> -- Gary L - 142E ITB race car, 73 1800ES <a href='http://www.bluebrickracing.mysite.com'>BlueBrick Racing Website</a> <a href='http://www.youtube.com/user/denrael'>YouTube Racing Videos</a> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383186&rss=1 Sat, 31 Oct 2009 12:36 GMT [RWD] [140-160] Trick Race Oil Pan -posted by- Gary L My basic pan is nearly identical to Charlie's; as stated earlier, only the scraper insert is different. -- Gary L - 142E ITB race car, 73 1800ES <a href='http://www.bluebrickracing.mysite.com'>BlueBrick Racing Website</a> <a href='http://www.youtube.com/user/denrael'>YouTube Racing Videos</a> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380765&rss=1 Tue, 20 Oct 2009 14:16 GMT [RWD] [140-160] Trick Race Oil Pan -posted by- Gary L I can't vouch for the accuracy of the hp claim, but I was once offered a modified B20 oil pan, which the builder *guaranteed* would produce 10 additional hp (at 7000 rpm), compared to a stock B20 pan. Now that's Trick with a capital "T". But he wanted something like $500 (you read it correctly - five hundred dollars!) for the piece. Now admittedly, $50 per horsepower isn't *that* bad when you're talking about an otherwise basically stock engine. But being a budget-racer sorta guy, I decided to go with the $50 (at the time) I-J scraper and my homemade baffling. :-) -- Gary L - 142E ITB race car, 73 1800ES <a href='http://www.bluebrickracing.mysite.com'>BlueBrick Racing Website</a> <a href='http://www.youtube.com/user/denrael'>YouTube Racing Videos</a> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380741&rss=1 Tue, 20 Oct 2009 12:58 GMT [RWD] [140-160] Trick Race Oil Pan -posted by- Gary L "I found that making the front of the sump deeper is important." To what end? More horsepower, or simply getting oil back to the pump quicker? I've used a video camera, pointed at my (direct reading, mechanical) oil pressure guage to see if I'm starving the pump under some weird circumstance. I've never seen more than a momentary flicker - a one second or so drop in pressure, and then only a few psi down before full recovery. And so far that has only happened under one specific circumstance... hard downhill braking while turning left and then immediately back right, under hard (2nd gear) acceleration. At about the left-to-right transition, I would get the flicker. More importantly though, I've broken just about everything there is to break on B20's at one time or another, but with the setup described above, I've *never* had a bearing failure, nor any other unusual lubrication related wear that I'm aware of. -- Gary L - 142E ITB race car, 73 1800ES <a href='http://www.bluebrickracing.mysite.com'>BlueBrick Racing Website</a> <a href='http://www.youtube.com/user/denrael'>YouTube Racing Videos</a> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380541&rss=1 Mon, 19 Oct 2009 18:56 GMT [RWD] [140-160] Trick Race Oil Pan -posted by- Gary L Pretty much the same setup I have, including the tray in the deep sump area and the same trap door setup. But I'm using an Ishihara-Johnson scraper where you have the full-length dimpled sheet metal. In other words, basically where you have dimples, I've got slots. I also don't use the spacer, since the scraper slots allow the crank to pass through that plane. I-J scrapers are currently about $90, twice the money I gave for mine a few years ago. But they now feature a scraper on both sides of the crankcase, whereas mine only "scrapes" one side. For those who haven't seen it, here's a link to the current offering from Ishihara: <a href='http://www.crank-scrapers.com/Volvo.html'>B20 Crank Scraper</a> -- Gary L - 142E ITB race car, 73 1800ES <a href='http://www.bluebrickracing.mysite.com'>BlueBrick Racing Website</a> <a href='http://www.youtube.com/user/denrael'>YouTube Racing Videos</a> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380453&rss=1 Mon, 19 Oct 2009 14:05 GMT [RWD] [140-160] [1972] Short block weighed = GREAT WORK GARY L. -posted by- Gary L The short block is .030" over with a 6 bolt crank. The 80 lb bare block was weighed some time back (it went to the scrap yard, don't have one lying about ATM), but I *think* it was completely bare... no freeze plugs, no cam bearings, and no main caps. It was also a .030" overbore, BTW. -- Gary L - 142E ITB race car, 73 1800ES <a href http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380174&rss=1 Sat, 17 Oct 2009 19:47 GMT [RWD] [140-160] [1972] Nope - no starter mods allowed (NMI) -posted by- Gary L http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380172&rss=1 Sat, 17 Oct 2009 19:40 GMT [RWD] [140-160] [1972] OT -- Starter motor weights -posted by- Gary L Actually, the bigger question in my mind is if "the manufacturer" superceded the part number, or did Tasca simply do it to get rid of an inventory line item. I know the latter to be the case at the local dealer in OKC... but I'll admit it has been a few years since I checked. In any case, I'm glad this came up again. Since our move to Kansas, the closest Volvo dealer is Gorges in Wichita, and they actually give a damn. Next time I'm in the city, I'll drop by and chat with the parts guys on the subject. The bunch in OKC never seemed to be interested in helping someone out with what amounts to a research project. -- Gary L - 142E ITB race car, 73 1800ES <a href='http://www.bluebrickracing.mysite.com'>BlueBrick Racing Website</a> <a href='http://www.youtube.com/user/denrael'>YouTube Racing Videos</a> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380170&rss=1 Sat, 17 Oct 2009 19:35 GMT [RWD] [140-160] [1972] Short block weighed! -posted by- Gary L If I'm not mistaken, all the 240 & 740 starters will fit the B20. And yes, at least the ones I've seen mounted on B20's were somewhat faster than the original B18/B20 piece. -- Gary L - 142E ITB race car, 73 1800ES <a href='http://www.bluebrickracing.mysite.com'>BlueBrick Racing Website</a> <a href='http://www.youtube.com/user/denrael'>YouTube Racing Videos</a> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380085&rss=1 Sat, 17 Oct 2009 10:48 GMT [RWD] [120-130] oddball Volvo Amazon features -posted by- Gary L Evidently there's something wrong with your technique... this was a right-click and save-as sorta deal, all the way. <img src="http://www.bluebrickracing.mysite.com/images/amazon_bench_front.jpg"> <img src="http://www.bluebrickracing.mysite.com/images/amazon_bench_rear.jpg"> And just in case, here's a link to the auction page: <a href='http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_rdc=1&item=110445602976&viewitem='>$25000 Amazon</a> -- Gary L - 142E ITB race car, 73 1800ES <a href='http://www.bluebrickracing.mysite.com'>BlueBrick Racing Website</a> <a href='http://www.youtube.com/user/denrael'>YouTube Racing Videos</a> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379950&rss=1 Fri, 16 Oct 2009 20:59 GMT [RWD] [120-130] oddball Volvo Amazon features -posted by- Gary L I agree there may be problem with the bench seat and 4-on-the-floor. But when we get to the part about the the column shifter suggesting a 3 speed gearbox, not so much... :-) IIRC, there were a number of cars built with a column shifter hooked to the venerable M40. -- Gary L - 142E ITB race car, 73 1800ES <a href='http://www.bluebrickracing.mysite.com'>BlueBrick Racing Website</a> <a href='http://www.youtube.com/user/denrael'>YouTube Racing Videos</a> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379688&rss=1 Thu, 15 Oct 2009 20:31 GMT [RWD] [120-130] oddball Volvo Amazon features -posted by- Gary L Holeeee Cow! Nice! To save the picture, get the large version on screen by clicking the thumbnail, then right-click on the large version and select "Save Picture As". This will give you an opportunity to save the picture in the location you want, with the filename you want. Don't mess with the ".JPEG" extension in the "save as type" box - leave it as-is when you type in the filename. Once saved, virtually any photo software can load and display the jpeg file. -- Gary L - 142E ITB race car, 73 1800ES <a href='http://www.bluebrickracing.mysite.com'>BlueBrick Racing Website</a> <a href='http://www.youtube.com/user/denrael'>YouTube Racing Videos</a> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379658&rss=1 Thu, 15 Oct 2009 19:01 GMT [RWD] [140-160] [1972] Short block weighed! -posted by- Gary L Starter - yes, I'm painfully aware of the fact there's a starter out there that weighs half what mine does, and will fit the B20 perfectly. Unfortunately, Improved Touring regs do not allow the swap, so I'm stuck with the extra weight where I need it least... in the LF quadrant of the car. Undercoating - I can legally remove all that goop if I so choose, but I'm running ballast already (in the form of a spare tire in the RH spare tire well), so if you look under the #50, you'll see undercoating only on the back half of the car. :-) -- Gary L - 142E ITB race car, 73 1800ES <a href='http://www.bluebrickracing.mysite.com'>BlueBrick Racing Website</a> <a href='http://www.youtube.com/user/denrael'>YouTube Racing Videos</a> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379644&rss=1 Thu, 15 Oct 2009 18:24 GMT [RWD] [140-160] [1972] Short block weighed! -posted by- Gary L Okay, here we go... freshly weighed pieces and assemblies, 'cuz it was all out there in the garage and it only took about 20 minutes to accomplish. The only caveat here is scale calibration - never really done, but this set of scales always has me within a couple of pounds of various doctor office scales. Let's say plus or minus 3% on the numbers below, just to be safe. 185 lbs - Short block, including block and all internal rotating parts, valve lifters, timing gears & cover, front and rear seals, & oil pan. No water pump, no front pulley, no distributor, no bellhousing, no flywheel, no clutch... a "pure" short block, if you will. 52 lbs - Head, including complete valve train, pushrods, head bolts, & valve cover. This would obviously put a long block in the area of 230-240 lbs. This means the missing 100 lbs or so would be made up of intake system, exhaust manifold, water pump, starter, alternator, distributor, wires and plugs, flywheel, clutch, and bellhousing, etc. Sounds about right, but I haven't actually weighed *everything* in this list. I do know the flywheel is around 21 lbs and the starter is about 17 lbs. Oh yes... just for good measure... an empty B20 block is just about 80 lbs. -- Gary L - 142E ITB race car, 73 1800ES <a href='http://www.bluebrickracing.mysite.com'>BlueBrick Racing Website</a> <a href='http://www.youtube.com/user/denrael'>YouTube Racing Videos</a> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379575&rss=1 Thu, 15 Oct 2009 14:17 GMT [RWD] [140-160] [1972] B20 Engine Weight -posted by- Gary L "The complete engine is in the neighborhood of just under 350 lbs. A cylinder head is about 40-45 lbs." However, comma... that doesn't make a short block weigh 300 lbs. :-) IIRC, the 330 to 350 lb figures you see published are for a fully dressed engine with all external accessories, intake system, exhaust manifold, flywheel, clutch, and bellhousing. Just an educated guess really, but I'm thinkin' the weight of a pure short block is closer to 200 than 300. -- Gary L - 142E ITB race car, 73 1800ES <a href='http://www.bluebrickracing.mysite.com'>BlueBrick Racing Website</a> <a href='http://www.youtube.com/user/denrael'>YouTube Racing Videos</a> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379497&rss=1 Thu, 15 Oct 2009 00:24 GMT [RWD] [1800] 1800ES weight -posted by- Gary L Based on a stock curb weight of 2600, I'd be inclined to say you're at 1600-1800 lbs, as described. -- Gary L - 142E ITB race car, 73 1800ES <a href='http://www.bluebrickracing.mysite.com'>BlueBrick Racing Website</a> <a href='http://www.youtube.com/user/denrael'>YouTube Racing Videos</a> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1376082&rss=1 Wed, 30 Sep 2009 00:52 GMT [RWD] [140-160] Different front fenders between 70 and 71 -posted by- Gary L Can't speak positively for the 164, but the 140's apparently used the same rear fenders straight through, with the exception of a change to the right rear fender part number in '74... to accomodate a new fuel filler location IIRC. I suspect the '74 140 rears are good for at least the early 240's as well? -- Gary L - 142E ITB race car, 73 1800ES <a href='http://www.bluebrickracing.mysite.com'>BlueBrick Racing Website</a> <a href='http://www.youtube.com/user/denrael'>YouTube Racing Videos</a> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1375413&rss=1 Sun, 27 Sep 2009 11:03 GMT [RWD] [120-130] tire pressure, cold Vs hot -posted by- Gary L In my experience, there's apparently considerable margin built in. :-) Back in the day, I remember running 165-15 Michelin XWW's (actually Sears branded) at around 60 psi for an SCCA fuel economy run in a '68 122. That was admittedly a rare event, but I did run those same tires, as well as other 165's and 185's, at 40-42 psi cold for autocross events quite regularly. IIRC, most of those tires were marked (at least the ones that *were* marked) for 32 psi max pressure. -- Gary L - 142E ITB race car, 73 1800ES <a href='http://www.bluebrickracing.mysite.com'>BlueBrick Racing Website</a> <a href='http://www.youtube.com/user/denrael'>YouTube Racing Videos</a> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1375409&rss=1 Sun, 27 Sep 2009 10:10 GMT [RWD] [120-130] tire pressure -posted by- Gary L Klaus - I'm going to respectfully disagree here... I believe the maximum inflation pressure listed on the sidewall is the maximum allowed "cold" pressure (prior to driving). -- Gary L - 142E ITB race car, 73 1800ES <a href='http://www.bluebrickracing.mysite.com'>BlueBrick Racing Website</a> <a href='http://www.youtube.com/user/denrael'>YouTube Racing Videos</a> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1375207&rss=1 Sat, 26 Sep 2009 13:10 GMT quick finder Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/