http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=32038 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 10:20 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 10:20 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. I just found this website that has the Nissens 3 row radiator for a 1984 245. I'ts www.drivewire.com. The price is lower than I paid a few years ago so I'm wondering if it's a mis-print. You could always call them. Good Luck! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385542&rss=1 Wed, 11 Nov 2009 15:51 GMT When did they stop making the Nissens 3 row heavy duty radiator? I bought one a couple of years ago with no problems. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385541&rss=1 Wed, 11 Nov 2009 15:40 GMT Not to hijack your thread but I've been having the same problem. Since there are 2 hoses attached to the IAC which one should be clamped off? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385362&rss=1 Tue, 10 Nov 2009 15:37 GMT I'd like to take the front foglight switch and all associated parts from that system from my DD and put it in my project 245. My DD doesn't have front foglights on it. The question I have is this. Is there a seperate wiring harness, relay, etc. for the front fogs? What all do I need to cannibalize from the car? Thanks, Charles http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385072&rss=1 Mon, 9 Nov 2009 05:27 GMT My 1983 245 DD has the theatre dome light setup where it stays on for 5 or 10 seconds after you get in and then fades out. I'd like to put this option in my 245 project car by cannibalizing the necessary parts to do this. What all parts do I need to do this? Thanks, Charles http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385071&rss=1 Mon, 9 Nov 2009 05:26 GMT What I've always done is to first attach the mount to the crossmember with the transmission lowered a few inches then raise it with a floor jack while using a long drift punch or alignment tool to help to line one of the holes up. When you get it close enough you should be able to get one of the bolts started and then I go to the other side and do the same thing. With the alignment tool still in the hole pull it in the direction to align the the hole up as perfectly as you can. Then tighten the bolt that you started on that side. It will then draw the crossmember up to the frame. Do the same thing on the other side. Good luck, I hope it works for you as it's always worked for me. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384037&rss=1 Wed, 4 Nov 2009 03:59 GMT I think it's your car and if it pleases you then go for it! You'll probably get more support over at www.turbobricks.com. Good Luck! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382434&rss=1 Wed, 28 Oct 2009 03:43 GMT Check to see if you may have knocked one of the wires to the coil loose when you were perhaps adding brake fluid or something like that (don't ask eme how I know). Good Luck! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382352&rss=1 Tue, 27 Oct 2009 21:29 GMT Sorry, You are correct. I was referring to the '93 style power/heated mirror setup as far as cutting and grinding goes as that's the extent of my experience as far as conversions go. It sounds like you've had a lot more experience with this. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381476&rss=1 Fri, 23 Oct 2009 16:58 GMT I recently did this conversion to my '82 245. In addition to what neptune242 said you also need to grind/file out some metal on the metal structure underneath the triangular sail shaped panels. The way I did this was I had both cars side by side and I took both sets of mirrors off. When you do this, you'll see what I'm talking about. What I did then was to take a piece of cardboard from a cereal box and cut it down so that I could fit it inside behind the hole on the '93 metal triangular shaped metal panel. Then I took a fine tipped sharpie marker and traced the odd shaped hole onto the cardboard. Then I trimmed out the marked out area of the cardboard with an exacto knife. After that I matched it up on the '82 and you'll see that some of the hole matches the older style. You'll be able to see what needs to be trimmed out. Then trace the rest of the hole onto the metal panel. Then, start filing and grinding. Once you get that ground out your mirrors should fit just like the '93. One of the holes I couldn't use the cardboard trick so what I ended up doing was I took a piece of aluminum tape (we called this "Speed Tape" when I used to work on airplanes) and I put it over the hole and I sort of pushed the tape into the hole and formed creases at the edges. Then I carefully removed the tape being carfull not to disturb the edge marks. Then I used the exacto knife again and trimmed the inside area out. Then I tape it right onto the '82 and trace with the sharpie what needs to be trimmed out again and you know what's next, GRIND and FILE some more. Then you install the mirrors. Next is to route the wiring harness and install the switch stalks. BTW, there's only one relay in this system. When you look at my car now you can't tell that it was not a factory installation. I hope you have the option of having the cars side-by-side like I did. I can't imagine doing it any other way. Sorry for the long post.Good Luck! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381381&rss=1 Fri, 23 Oct 2009 03:26 GMT I don't know if this is the right place to post this but I can't find where I should post this. I've also been unable to find how to contact Jarrod on this site. My problem is that my email address has changed awhile ago and when I try to go to edit my email address and submit the changes it always goes back to the original address. Can anyone here tell me what I need to do? Thanks, Charles http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380934&rss=1 Wed, 21 Oct 2009 04:26 GMT Thanks, Unfortunately, my email address on this site is out of date. I've tried to update it but it still goes back to the original when I try to update the cahnges. I'll have to contact the moderator or administrator about this. In the meantime, I'd appreciate it if you'd sendit to my current email address which is chasingpeace1@gmail.com. Thanks, Charles http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380929&rss=1 Wed, 21 Oct 2009 04:15 GMT It came with the large steering wheel with the sdie buttons but I replaced that with the smaller wheel with the center pad setup. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380702&rss=1 Tue, 20 Oct 2009 04:29 GMT Hi Everyone, I need to replace the horn ring thing in my '82 245. It's the ring shaped nylon thing under the steering wheel that has the metal ring attached to it and is riveted to the housing. It also has the wire attached to the backside that gets power fron the fusebox. Does anyone here knowthe part number? Thanks,Charles http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380455&rss=1 Mon, 19 Oct 2009 14:20 GMT Do you have a link to that article? I can't find it online. Thanks, Charles http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380309&rss=1 Sun, 18 Oct 2009 19:02 GMT That GE631 bulb is what was in my brake lights sockets. That's what the auto parts stores list for my car. I was thinking of upgrading to LED's because I want brighter bulbs than stock. Also, I am running clear taillight and turn signal lenses so I have to use colored bulbs anyway. I know there are stores out there that sell colored non-LED 1156's and so on but I just want the brightest bulbs that I can get. These bulbs are being bought for my project car that are going to have all of the bulbs replaced anyway so it's not like I'm just throwing away a bunch of good bulbs just to do this. I went to www.donsbulbs.com and I saw what you were talking about Shannon but I couldn't figure out a search function that would tell me what brake light bulb goes in my car. I also been unable to find a site where I can find a search function that will provide that application. I've of course tried IPD and FCPgroton as well as googling everything I can think of but still no luck. What next? I guess I could call another auto parts store. Thanks, Charles http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380242&rss=1 Sun, 18 Oct 2009 02:13 GMT I can't find a decent number to even cross reference. The number on my bulb says GE631. I'm assuming it's a General Electric bulb but I can't find a cross reference for it. I'd like to convert all of my exterior light bulb to LED's. Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Charles http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380067&rss=1 Sat, 17 Oct 2009 04:23 GMT Also, I've been told that if someone connects or disconnects the connector from the ECU with the battery connected that it frys out some contact in there that will cause a high idle. Also, if they don't wait at least 30 seconds after removing the battery cables before removing the ECU connector then the same thing can happen. There's some kind of small residual voltage that has to bleed off. The only fix I know of is to replace the ECU. Try all of the other thing's that the others have suggested first. Good Luck! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379247&rss=1 Tue, 13 Oct 2009 22:31 GMT When I used to sell cars I learned that the 10th digit in a VIN number is the year of the car. In the 1990's they still used letters for the year of the car. The N is the letter for the '92 models and since they don't use the "O" (because the possibility of being confused with a zero) the next year they used "P" for 1993 and so on. After 2000 and in 2001 they started using numbers. 1 for 2001, 2 for 2002 and so on. I don't know what they're going to do in 2011. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378115&rss=1 Thu, 8 Oct 2009 14:44 GMT I've always used carb cleaner in the spray can to clean it. If it's not idling correctly and with the engine not running you can remove the IAC hose that goes from your intake hose down to the IAC and spray carb cleaner in there for 10 to 15 seconds. After reinstalling the hose then start the engine. It will probably act like it's going to start and immediately temporarily go into a hard start condition. This is normal. It's trying to clear the carb cleaner that you just sprayed in there but it will start. If this doesn't fix your problem, you can remove the IAC from the car and spray it out liberally and shake it to be sure that the thing inside rotates freely. Once you get it out you'll see what I mean. Also, there's a resistance test for the IAC in the Bentley manual if you have one of those. If not go to www.k-jet.org-files-greenbooks and they have it there also. Good Luck! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377872&rss=1 Wed, 7 Oct 2009 15:50 GMT Odo-Ban is good when you're trying to get rid of an odor. I tried it on mold before but it didn't do as well as the mold removal spray that I got at Lowes. i'd start with the vinegar/water solution to start(keep it as chemical free as possible). If the doesn't work well enough for you then I'd try some mold removal spray from Lowes or Home Depot. Good Luck! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377474&rss=1 Tue, 6 Oct 2009 02:56 GMT Nevermind, I got it figured out. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377470&rss=1 Tue, 6 Oct 2009 02:44 GMT Yes, I agree with Paul. To further clarify what he said about the turn signals, when you have a bulb out (or not connecting) your flasher inside will do this on the perspective side. I don't know why the bulb out light doesn't seem to come on in this situation. I've seen it come on once in a car I was lookong at to but once but never again in any other 240 I've owned. Like Paul said, if the bulb is bad then make sure you change out the pair. Otherwise you could still have the problem even both bulbs are working. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377329&rss=1 Mon, 5 Oct 2009 14:58 GMT There's resistance check in the Bentley manual but I forget how to do it. It's all in there. Other than that I don't know of one. I've got an IAC on my project car that didn't pass that test so I think it's bad and will have to be replaced. I've also read somewhere that a high idle could be due to a bad throttle position sensor. There's a check in there for that, too. Good Luck! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377198&rss=1 Sun, 4 Oct 2009 21:14 GMT I've been installing an older '84 style cruise control actuator in my '82 245. Keep in mind that this is my diesel to gas car project. Also I installed the newer A/C system from a '92 244 so I now have that large A/C accumulator over on the passenger side of the car under the hood. Since that is there it occupies most of the space where the cruise control actuator is supposed to sit. So, what I did was I had to move the actuator more toward the center and a little lower than the original location. Now I have the cruise actuator and cable setup from the diesel car that I saved. I also have a cruise setup on my '83 245 dd. So, I swapped the throttle brackets over from the '83 to the '82 and that went well. Since I moved the actuator I now have a cable that's too long. I was told by someone in the past that there are something like 3 different lengths of these cables. Now I've found that the diesel car CC cable is about 3" longer than the gas car cable. I naturally installed the shorter cable but it's still something like 5 or 6" too long. Also, the nylon fitting that goes into the throttle bracket is broken. That piece is not broken on the diesel cable so I thought I'd swap it over to the shorter cable. Well you can't do that because there's a ball swaged on one end and a round tee swaged on the other. Because of these you can't take the individual pieces off. My questions are first, does anyone here know the part numbers and corresponding lenghts for these cables (if they're even still available)? Second, does anyone know where I might get a custom cable swaged together? I thought that this might be the best option since this thing is in a non-stock location. Sorry for the long post. Thanks, Charles http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377036&rss=1 Sun, 4 Oct 2009 01:52 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/