http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=315 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 02:46 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 02:46 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Not sure if it is the same as on the earlier cars but on the earlier models you can drill the lock out, starting with about a ¼" drill and go to increasingly bigger sizes. By the time you get to about 3/4" you should have enough of the lock gone that you can work the trigger that does the unlatching. This would work on a 140/164 - might on later models. Worth a try. -- George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387412&rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 23:31 GMT Joe Lazenby - Susquehanna Spares, Harrisbug PA will probably have some used ones. Any info on CA? -- George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387326&rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 14:11 GMT Heater or cowl drain? Windshield seal? -- George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387324&rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 14:03 GMT ½"-20 UNF, VERY common size. Most have 3/4" hex but some have 13/16" -- George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387140&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 16:24 GMT Here is what I use: Dwell: 60 degrees Ignition advance: 20 degrees with vacuum connected (No vac? No sweat!) If you get pinging under acceleration, retard a degree or two. Valve clearance 0.020" but could be reduced to 0.018" -- George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386747&rss=1 Mon, 16 Nov 2009 22:23 GMT May also be the same as 68-on 140/164. My 72 164 looks like that (mount may be different) -- George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386700&rss=1 Mon, 16 Nov 2009 19:09 GMT If it came from the US and does not have plugged injector ports, it is a B20B head. No B20A engines were sold in the US. But if it was an FI engine it would have been B20E or B20F(more likely). It would have injector ports above each intake passage, probably plugged with 7/8" soft plugs. If the head is thinner than 3 3/8", it would be B20E (if it has not been milled) B20F heads are originally thicker than 3 3/8". (They can be milled thinner.) -- George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386533&rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 22:29 GMT The bead that holds them in can be HARD to completely remove. I ground an icepick into a bent chisel shape to get them out on my 69 164 and ended up stabbing myself fairly deeply a couple times. The exposed part is degraded but the protected part is not, or not so bad. If it seems stuck into the groove a bit of penetrating oil and more poking may help loosen it. -- George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386344&rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 01:49 GMT One thing nobody has mentioned yet is that the OD tranny is about 30 pounds heavier than the M40 so if you don't have good upper body strength or other ways of lifting and positioning it on installation, it can be tough going. -- George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386020&rss=1 Fri, 13 Nov 2009 15:20 GMT They are NOT the same. Take the trunk lock and tell him it was made by the British Union Lock Company. There are a couple different ones. One has a groove along the back edge and the other does not. For the one that does NOT have the groove, there is a file cabinet lock that uses a similar blank. The early 140/164 doors used one that is the same as the one that DOES have the groove. There area also two different OEM ignition locks used in the same switches. One is made by Niemann and the other by ASSA. ASSA disclaims any knowledge of theirs now. Sometimes blanks show up on ebay. -- George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386015&rss=1 Fri, 13 Nov 2009 15:06 GMT Get the paint guy to look at it and see what HE wants! Be sure and tell him it is OEM filler. -- George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385779&rss=1 Thu, 12 Nov 2009 15:17 GMT It's a bolt-in. Maybe slight change in fuel economy. Engines rev OK but it is easier on the driver! -- George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385778&rss=1 Thu, 12 Nov 2009 15:14 GMT Joe probably has used ones. I think I might have an extra shell or two around. -- George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385638&rss=1 Wed, 11 Nov 2009 21:11 GMT My e-mail program died but I can receive on webmail. If you are near the center of the country I am also interested. gdowns &#091at&#093 cableone &#091dot&#093 net Many thanks. -- George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385547&rss=1 Wed, 11 Nov 2009 16:11 GMT I think maybe Rusty at RPR might give you better prices than IPD. -- George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385546&rss=1 Wed, 11 Nov 2009 16:04 GMT My first vehicle was a 1940 Ford pickup with 4-speed screamin' tranny which remained a flathead until I was able to drop a Buick 322 V8 into it. Then the old straight-cut gears REALLY screamed! -- George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385471&rss=1 Wed, 11 Nov 2009 04:39 GMT Well, that brings it down from "Gold" to "Silver"...... -- George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385466&rss=1 Wed, 11 Nov 2009 04:07 GMT Hard to imagine putting a $1345 panel on a car that cost $1000..... (and if you need one you probably need two or more!) -- George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385349&rss=1 Tue, 10 Nov 2009 14:25 GMT Matt! That is flat HOOD, not flat HEAD! (Ford made their last flatheads in 1953 - I remember 'em well!) -- George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385346&rss=1 Tue, 10 Nov 2009 14:18 GMT You're SURE it is dripping out of the box and not the heater valve... You're sure it is coolant and not water.... Normally coolant will drip all the time, or at least all the time the engine is running. (The blower will make it faster.) (Having the heater valve closed will make it slower.) -- George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385344&rss=1 Tue, 10 Nov 2009 14:12 GMT Joe Lazenby - Susquehanna Spares, Harrisburg, PA(717) 921-2644 He is sometimes hard to catch. Don't know if he has carcasses that he can get floor board from but he has plenty of 122s, especially wagons. -- George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385126&rss=1 Mon, 9 Nov 2009 16:36 GMT In that case I'd recommend soaking it down well with B'laster and then screwing a flare fitting into the nut just far enough to give a good grip on the threads but leave clearance for the flare. Then I'd hold the hose and smack the other end of the flare fitting sharply. -- George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385121&rss=1 Mon, 9 Nov 2009 16:24 GMT Jim Taylor will refurb them for about $100 each...... -- George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385043&rss=1 Mon, 9 Nov 2009 02:44 GMT He's a great guy and does very good work but I don't think he ever worked for Laycock. -- George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384959&rss=1 Sun, 8 Nov 2009 20:42 GMT You'll have to pull the timing cover and the oil pan, then it will be fairly easy. -- George Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384958&rss=1 Sun, 8 Nov 2009 20:40 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/