http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=30890 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 23:11 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 23:11 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Volvo part #1362923 shows as a bulb failure relay for 700 & 900 - 1987 up. It appears that it may be a scantech part as scantech part #10.2923 is referenced. Perhaps this is why it's green? -- dnvolvo 89 765T 225k - 91 245 120k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1210592&rss=1 Fri, 24 Aug 2007 15:49 GMT Replacement for the Radio Suppression Relay from FCP Groton is a KAE (Kaehler Automotive Equipment) relay made in Germany. I believe that KAE is aftermarket and Stribel is OEM. What's been the experience with KAE parts? Has anyone established long term reliability with the KAE relays? Thanks -- dnvolvo 89 765T 216k - 91 245 117k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1207242&rss=1 Mon, 13 Aug 2007 20:46 GMT Rhino Ramps have large stamps on both sides and are also marked underneath. -- dnvolvo 89 765T 216k - 91 245 117k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1202202&rss=1 Wed, 25 Jul 2007 14:53 GMT According to the Bentley manual (1983-1993 240) for the B230F it is 12 degrees +/- 2 degrees BTDC @ 750 rpm. It may be shown on the Vehicle Emission plate under the hood, driver's side strut turret. -- dnvolvo 89 765T 216k - 91 245 117k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1201452&rss=1 Sun, 22 Jul 2007 20:30 GMT Small vacuum hose size on B230 is usually 4.2m. FCP Groton sells the hose. -- dnvolvo 89 765T 216k - 91 245 117k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1164076&rss=1 Sun, 4 Mar 2007 13:55 GMT Perhaps, pull a spark plug and smell for gas after cranking. Also, you can hear the undercar main fuel pump buzz for a sec or so as soon as the ignition is turned on (KPII). This applies to Bosch FI cars, Regina has main pump in Fuel Tank. -- dnvolvo 89 765T 216k - 91 245 117k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1150747&rss=1 Sun, 14 Jan 2007 15:36 GMT Looks like a "metal oxide" resistor. One application is to limit (current)surge in automotive circuits. Perhaps the 1W represents 1 Watt and the 1023 represents 1,023 Ohms? -- dnvolvo 89 765T 216k - 91 245 117k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1148982&rss=1 Mon, 8 Jan 2007 16:15 GMT Things to check: 1. Harmonic Balancer - is it slipping? 2. Any fluid leaking from Water Pump? With engine off is the pulley secure? 3. Alternator, Power Steeing pump - are they secure - bushings ok? 4. All belts - tension - condition - any slipping? -- dnvolvo 89 765T 216k - 91 245 117k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1148474&rss=1 Sat, 6 Jan 2007 16:12 GMT Check for "pulsing ground" on the (-) term #1 of the coil. While cranking with a test light the light should flash. Also, can check the coil secondary resistance: measure between one of the primary terminals and the secondary terminal. Should be between about 6000 to 9000 Ohms. -- dnvolvo 89 765T 216k - 91 245 117k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1148157&rss=1 Fri, 5 Jan 2007 15:32 GMT In theory, if there is fuel then there should be spark. I would suggest rechecking for spark. Pull the coil wire from the distributor cap, place end near ground - with a small gap - and check for spark. Don't hold the wire (high voltage) in your hand while you crank. Or you can use a timing light. If there is no spark, and you want to recheck the hall sensor - you can bypass it as follows (from volvo problem solver for Bosch EZK ignition): 1. Turn key off 2. Unplug hall switch connector 3. Turn key on 4. Bridge contacts 1 to 2 on connector (can use a paper clip) for 1 sec 5. If everything (except hall switch) is working correct, the coil will spark and fuel pump will run for a sec when contact is removed. -- dnvolvo 89 765T 216k - 91 245 117k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1146835&rss=1 Sun, 31 Dec 2006 15:02 GMT There are four copper seals, two for each connector, both ends of fuel filter. One goes on each side of the two connectors. In addition, there is one copper seal for the check valve. Here are images of these seals: http://www.fcpgroton.com/volvo240fuelpump.htm If you order the check valve from Groton it comes with its seal as does the Fuel Filter. I don't believe that it is advisable to reuse these seals. -- dnvolvo 89 765T 216k - 91 245 117k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1146830&rss=1 Sun, 31 Dec 2006 14:37 GMT As for the date stamp, check on the side tanks either side for a small circular date stamp. May need a light to find it. -- dnvolvo 89 765T 216k - 91 245 117k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1141325&rss=1 Mon, 11 Dec 2006 15:43 GMT According to Haynes 82-88 740 & 760, the fuel pressure for a B230F & B280F = 36psi. For B230FT, B23FT = 43psi. Bentley's states 2.5 Bar (36.2 psi) for LH 2.0 & LH 2.2. It indicates to check the pressure at the fuel rail - before the FPR. Start and idle engine, disconnect and plug the vacuum hose from the FPR. -- dnvolvo 89 765T 216k - 91 245 117k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1141318&rss=1 Mon, 11 Dec 2006 15:22 GMT Also, suggest to check the Fuel Pressure Regulator. -- dnvolvo 89 765T 216k - 91 245 117k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1140937&rss=1 Sun, 10 Dec 2006 03:26 GMT Revised Conclusion: Problem turned-out to be intermittent failing main Fuel Pump. Replaced AMM & FPR in the process. Appears both may have been OK, yet did have high mileage. As for why the car started and idled ok without AMM & would not start with AMM, disconnecting AMM placed ECU into "Limp-Home" mode. Limp Home sets a "fixed injector pulse width -- there is no fuel compensation from ECU". I theorize that with the AMM disconnected, the fuel/air mix was set "lean" which then permitted the engine to start with low fuel pressure, in this case, with the in tank fuel pump only. Therefore, if troubleshooting what appears to be an AMM problem (starts fine without; does not start with) -- also, recommend checking Fuel Pressure to insure not at issue. fyi -- dnvolvo 89 765T 216k - 91 245 117k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1139276&rss=1 Mon, 4 Dec 2006 17:17 GMT Thanks. The only stamp on the cap indicates "Germany" and "75 kPa". There is no Volvo marking. -- dnvolvo 89 765T 216k - 91 245 117k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1138826&rss=1 Sun, 3 Dec 2006 03:46 GMT What causes the Coolant Res Cap to crack like this. Note the hairline cracks on the left and right side. Also, starting to crack on the other sides. This cap is about 1 1/2 years old. It is the black 75kPa cap which is the lower pressure (IPD recommended) cap than the standard green cap (150kPa) for the 760 Turbo. This cap was removed from 89 760T. Have you experienced these cracks with the black caps? Or grey, green or white caps? -- Thanks dnvolvo 89 765T 216k - 91 245 117k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1138747&rss=1 Sat, 2 Dec 2006 23:39 GMT Thanks. Question applies to Bosch cars. '89 760T and '91 240 NA. Inasmuch as some repair shops utilize impact guns to tighten the fuel filter, do you know if this presents any problem breaking the bolts with hand wrenches? -- dnvolvo 89 765T 216k - 91 245 117k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1138326&rss=1 Fri, 1 Dec 2006 15:21 GMT I checked a regulator catalog and it appears that they probably are interchangeable. Both numbers are "listed together" as part of the same regulator group that is replaced by USI 71-40003 or 71-40010. -- dnvolvo 89 765T 216k - 91 245 117k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1138210&rss=1 Fri, 1 Dec 2006 02:55 GMT How easy or difficult is it to change the undercar fuel filter? -- dnvolvo 89 765T 216k - 91 245 117k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1138198&rss=1 Fri, 1 Dec 2006 02:33 GMT I measured 2.2V at idle, approx 3.0V at 3500 Rpm with a new AMM for LH 2.2. Also, here's some information relative to AMM testing that may be helpful: http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=1135314&show_all=1 -- dnvolvo 89 765T 216k - 91 245 117k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1136999&rss=1 Mon, 27 Nov 2006 15:12 GMT Interesting that the Bill of Sale indicates to refigerate the thermostat before installing. I just installed a new one in an 89 760 and it was rather difficult to remove and replace. There were no instructions with the dealer part. Also, I did not find any detail for replacement in any of the common reference manuals. Perhaps the "green books" may have some info. I used a cup of water with ice and did chill mine (placed the silver tip in water) just before installing. The reason is because the cold will cause the thermostat to draw in the plunger. This way the spring does not have to be compressed as far to clear space needed for the thermostat. The other thing is to completely remove the airbox and then the thermostat housing from the box. I used a little petroleum jelly and then covered pliers to "pop" in the new thermostat. The airbox/thermo arrangement are different on the 240 yet perhaps this info will help. -- dnvolvo 89 765T 216k - 91 245 117k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1136996&rss=1 Mon, 27 Nov 2006 14:56 GMT Well, just when it appeared that the problem had been solved, went to start car this am (ran great yesterday evening after changing AMM & then FPR) and it started, idled fine for about 30 secs or so and died. Restarted and it ran for a shorter time and died. Would not restart. Unplugged AMM and it started right up and ran for 5-10 mins or so until I depressed gas pedal then it stalled (as it should since then AMM was disconnected), otherwise would probably have continued to idle just fine. After stalling, the engine would not restart. Perhaps flooded? In any case, it starts and runs without AMM. Additionally, it did run great last night with the newly installed AMM. It seems to me that the AMM itself is not at issue. Yet, connecting the AMM is an issue. The question becomes what is different in terms of operation in "Limp Home" mode (AMM disconnected) versus normal mode (AMM connected)? Are you familiar specifically with how the Limp Home works? Which sensors, etc are removed from the loop? Thanks -- dnvolvo 89 765T 216k - 91 245 117k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1135895&rss=1 Thu, 23 Nov 2006 00:11 GMT Thanks. I rechecked the Volvo Problem Solver (Advanced-2 edition) – Group 25, section 174 indicates; 700 Series ’85-’88 B230 & ‘85’-’89 4 cycl turbo “under function” term 3 (AMM output 1.2-3.0 Volts). Under Wire voltages to unplug harness with KPII on - Term 3 = 0.0Volts. Then on 25-177 (which is the next page that I have) it states hook up dvm and backprobe Term 3 with harness connected and KPII (engine off) = 1.2V, 750rpm = 2.2V and 3500rpm = 3.0V. I also noticed that in the “vital signs” section of the book 7-273 (for ’85-’88 LH 4cyl) it states Term 3 KPII (engine off) = 1.4V, 750rpm = 2.2V, 3500rpm =3.0V. In addition, it states that “readings more than +/- 0.3V, point to fault in AMM or Fuel Injection C/U”. In regards to resistance checks, I’m starting to think that 25-179 which indicates 2.6-4.0 Ohms may actually be the correct measuring range for ’89 760T rather than the 3.5-4.0 that Bentley indicates under LH2.2. I measured two different AMMs, one believed to be faulty and one known good and both measured the same: 2.9 Ohms or if not deducting for test lead resistance – the meter displayed 3.1 Ohms in both cases, in range per Volvo Problem Solver (VPS). It’s still unclear to me why VPS references terms 5 & 2 for AMM output resistance check? In any case, in the end, the classic test, did point to a faulty AMM. As for the wire harness connected (engine off) test for Term 3 measured 1.32V with the original AMM and 1.35V with the replacement (Bosch rebuilt) AMM. The car would start and immediately die with the original AMM. Unplugging the AMM, the car would then start and idle fine. Repeated this test a number of times. In each case, the car would not stay running with AMM connected, yet it would with AMM unplugged. Also, after trying to start with AMM connected, the plugs would foul with fuel and I would have to wait a period before starting with AMM unplugged. I suspected that the wet plugs was simply due to the fact that the car was just cranking and not starting? Well, after changing the AMM, somewhat surprisingly, the car did not start. Also, it did not seem to want to start with AMM unplugged – pulled spark plug –very wet. So, changing course, inasmuch as the FPR appeared to be original with over 200K and I had a new spare – I changed the FPR. Started right up except engine ran very rough (as if the AMM was disconnected or not working). After a period of time, starts, restarts and checking/rechecking AMM connector, engine started and ran fine. In conclusion: 1. It appears that the Fuel Pressure regulator (FPR) was faulty. 2. It’s not conclusive to me that the AMM was actually faulty; however, the classic test pointed clearly to the AMM (which BTW also has over 200K and the air box thermostat was found to close only to ½ open position). 3. Do you know if it’s common for the engine to run essentially without power (mimics AMM like symptoms) for a few minutes just after FPR is changed? Air/Vapor in line, lack of fuel, lack of pressure, some other reason, etc? 4. Do you know if a failing/failed FPR could cause start immediately die symptom, yet unplugging AMM would allow engine to start and idle? (Bad FPR, good AMM – yet it appears that AMM is bad when actually it’s the FPR) Thanks again -- dnvolvo 89 765T 216k - 91 245 117k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1135796&rss=1 Wed, 22 Nov 2006 17:28 GMT Volvo Problem Solver for 700 series '85-'89 indicates to unplug AMM harness, then turn Ignition on, Key Position II, check term 6 = 5.1VDC, term 5 = 12.0V (Battery Voltage), term 3 = 0.0 V. I measured at the harness OK except for term 3 which measured 93mv (in any case this is close to 0.0). Volvo Problem Solver indicates to check AMM internal resistance unplugged. Term 6 & 2 = 0-1000 Ohms and Term 5 & 2 = 2.6-4.0 Ohms. I measured terms 6 & 2 within range (this represents the idle mixture potentiometer resistance) and 5 & 2 at 21.6K ohms. Bentley's 240 Service Manual (83-93) referencing LH 2.2 indicates Term 6 & 2 = 0-1000 Ohms (same as Problem Solver) and Term 3 & 2 = 3.5-4.0 Ohms. I measured 3 & 2 at 2.9 Ohms. (BTW LH 2.4 = 2.5-4.0 Ohms.) In conclusion: It appears that there may be an error in the Volvo Problem Solver text as it seems that it should state to test for resistance between terms 3 & 2 instead of 5 & 2. 3 & 2 represent the air mass meter platinum wire resistance. 5 is Battery Voltage input. 1. Have any of you made the wire resistance test? Did you use terms 3 & 2? What did you find? 2. Any experience with the Rebuilt Air Mass Meters from Injection Labs (via FCP Groton)? Thanks -- dnvolvo 89 765T 216k - 91 245 117k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1135423&rss=1 Tue, 21 Nov 2006 04:20 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/