http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=3059 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 21:24 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 21:24 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. If it's a B230 engine, it is non-interference. Visit www.stepbystepvolvo.com for free guide to replacing the timing belt. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387078&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 05:39 GMT Sounds like an alternator problem. Could be the brushes are worn. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387077&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 05:36 GMT I just recently redid my clutch cylinders. First, I did the slave cylinder--and no luck. No back pressure. I had to also replace the clutch master cylinder. That fixed it. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387076&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 05:34 GMT My wife's 1993 940 non-turbo is a Bosch LH-2.4. My suspicion is the rpm sensor. Recently, on my 1987 740, the Hall sensor failed, plus there was a short circuit in the Hall plug. Symptoms included hiccups,hard starting, and dying, then being able to start up again. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387075&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 05:31 GMT David, You hit the nail on the head. I guess I was not that observant. There is a slight offset. So, I loosened the two 10-mm hold-down bolts and rotated the distributor shaft 180 degrees and it goes in! No problem! Thanks, guys! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385693&rss=1 Thu, 12 Nov 2009 00:37 GMT Hi Everybody, I seem to be having trouble installing the overhead distributor base plate into the back of the overhead camshaft. The large green O-ring is showing, even after the 10 mm bolts have been tightened down. Is this O-ring supposed to be swallowed by the cavity on the back of the camshaft? Or is this O-ring just a press fit against the back of the camshaft? When I removed the old distributor base plate (with Hall sensor), it was tight against the back of the valve cover. But the new distributor base plate (with Hall sensor) has a noticeable gap between it and the back of the valve cover. Tightening the 10 mm hold-down bolts doesn't seem to budge it much. Any suggestions? Thanks. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385486&rss=1 Wed, 11 Nov 2009 06:33 GMT David, Thanks. Dave Barton gave me a hint; same as you suggested. I used a very thin jeweler's screwdriver blade and it worked. Yeah, I don't think I'll do this again. Spent ~2 hours at the junkyard trying to get a good Hall plug wire. The only saving grace was that the manager let me cut wires at the firewall so I could pull the Hall plug wire free fairly easily. Still, no picnic playing under the dashboard pulling the black electrical tape free and trying to follow the wire back to the firewall. My only concern with splicing was the EM shield. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384022&rss=1 Wed, 4 Nov 2009 02:47 GMT 1987 740 Turbo Hi Everybody, I'm trying to replace the Hall sensor plug wire, which goes through the firewall to the Ignition Control Unit (ICU). I'm having a devil of a time releasing the connector lead that attaches to the ICU prong. I tried slipping a jeweler's screwdriver blade down the "gulley" on the side of the terminal, but the lead wouldn't budge. Any help would be appreciated. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383683&rss=1 Mon, 2 Nov 2009 20:48 GMT For those of you who helped me this past summer about a rounded off brass plug for the gearbox, you may wish to visit www.stepbystepvolvo.com and click on "The Brass Gearbox Plug from Hell Fiasco" under "New!" It provides an update on what happened. A 40-minute job became a 23-day task! It's instructive for those of you who wish to change the gear oil or ATF fluid in your manual transmission gearbox. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381368&rss=1 Fri, 23 Oct 2009 02:00 GMT Hello Everybody, 1987 740 turbo, B230FT, LH-Jetronic 2.2. My service socket for remote starting my starter doesn't work. Bentley 330-1, Figure 2, shows the E connector, but of course doesn't say where it is located on the car. I have an open circuit somewhere and the connector is a good place to start. Anyone know where it's located? Thanks. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380431&rss=1 Mon, 19 Oct 2009 06:32 GMT Hello Everybody, Have a no-start on a 1987 740 turbo, LH-Jetronic 2.2, B230 FT. No spark. Narrowed it down to Power Stage and its feed. Got 0.12 VDC between pin 5 & ground for the Power Stage feed at ignition "Start," with R/W wire at #1 and blue wire at #15 on ignition coil terminals disconnected. Proper voltage is 2 VDC. Seems to me that it may be an ignition ECU problem. Any other tests I should run? What are your opinions? Also, if I need to replace an ignition ECU, who can you recommend? Seems like brand new IECUs are out of sight---over $1000. Any remanufacturers with a stellar reputation? Thanks. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377238&rss=1 Mon, 5 Oct 2009 01:48 GMT Go to www.stepbystepvolvo.com for free guide to 740 no-starts. If 87/b is the same as 87/2, then you have a bad main fuel pump or the wiring is bad from the main fuel pump to 87/2. Make sure your connection to the underside of 87/b is tight. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1375996&rss=1 Tue, 29 Sep 2009 18:08 GMT Well, everybody, there has been some discussion of this topic, but I wanted to get more feedback. I learned from my father to use a heavy cinder block and wood to support the car when doing under-car work. This was before the days of jackstands. Someone wrote that somebody was killed using a cinder block support. My reply to that was that he had probably oriented the cinder block the wrong way. The cinder block should be oriented so that the holes are vertical, as that is where all the compression strength comes from. After all, they don't construct buildings with the holes facing sideways. Someone wrote back that the cinder block strength comes from being tied together as a unit with other blocks and from the rebar and concrete fill. While this is true, this adds tensile strength (twisting and pulling lengthwise). My argument is that the compression strength of a single block is enough to hold the weight of the car. Could I be wrong? Actually, for further safety, my technique is to use a cinder block (and wood) and one jackstand for each side. The reason I don't trust jackstands alone is that I had once incompletely inserted the tab into the lock jaw and, while I was working underneath the car, the other side started to slowly lower itself. Needless to say, I got the hell out from under the car real quickly. Another technique is to back up the jackstand with the floorjack. Any comments? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1375995&rss=1 Tue, 29 Sep 2009 18:03 GMT Ryan is right, per his two ways. I just removed my right rear caliper by removing the caliper and then unscrewing it from the hose. I also had to remove the rubber brake line leading to the caliper (long story) and had a hell of a time with the brass nipple (copper line) because it was starting to round off with my open end wrench. I used my hooked Vise-Grip (for hex heads) and, wow, it worked! Luckily, both heads were able to tighten up nicely with open end wrenches. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1375988&rss=1 Tue, 29 Sep 2009 17:50 GMT I'm wondering if that person who was killed put in the cinderblock the wrong way? Holes should, of course, be facing up. That is where the strength is. Cinderblocks are weak when the holes face laterally. Notice that they don't build buildings with the cinderblock holes facing sideways. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1375838&rss=1 Tue, 29 Sep 2009 04:24 GMT Go through the steps in the guide, one by one. For instance, if the EM2 switch does not close in the fuel injection relay at ignition "Start," then it is the crank sensor. All this makes sense if you read the guide. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1371249&rss=1 Thu, 10 Sep 2009 00:40 GMT No spark usually implies the following four conditions: (1) bad ignition coil, (2) bad Power Stage, (3) bad crank sensor, or (4) wires connecting above. Go to www.stepbystepvolvo.com for free guide to 740 (B230) no-start. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1371241&rss=1 Thu, 10 Sep 2009 00:21 GMT Oops, I meant no spark rather than no-start for faulty fuel pump relay. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1366481&rss=1 Mon, 17 Aug 2009 05:58 GMT I don't believe a fuel pump relay can cause a no-start. You are right. No spark means (a) bad ignition coil, (b) bad Power Stage, (c) bad RPM sensor, or (d) faulty wiring to any of above. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1366480&rss=1 Mon, 17 Aug 2009 05:56 GMT If there is no cranking, then it is (a) battery, (b) battery cables and connections, (c) ignition wiring to ignition switch, or (d) that thingamajig switch for automatics at the gearshift. I would suggest jumping the starter solenoid the next time it doesn't start to see if it starts. If it does, then it's in the ignition wiring to ignition switch or that gearshift switch. Also, the battery should read ~12.0+ volts first thing in the morning after a good night's rest and ~13.5+ V when the engine is running. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1366478&rss=1 Mon, 17 Aug 2009 05:40 GMT Go to www.stepbystepvolvo.com for free guide to 740 no-starts (B230, LH2.2). http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1363581&rss=1 Mon, 3 Aug 2009 02:08 GMT Thanks, John. That sheds some light on the project. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1363293&rss=1 Sat, 1 Aug 2009 14:21 GMT Don't know how to load photos in brickboard, but here's the link for Volvoforums, which has two photos: http://www.volvoforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32831 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1363253&rss=1 Sat, 1 Aug 2009 05:13 GMT Gremlins are hard to pin down. I would do all of the basic tune-up: spark plugs, rotor and cap, spark plug wires, air filter. I hesitate to say fuel filter since that is such a pain in the ass to replace. For me, on my 740 turbo, replacing the air filter and spark plug wires helped tremendously. If your car stays dead, go to www.stepbystepvolvo.com for free guide to 740 no-starts (B230 engine). http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1362989&rss=1 Thu, 30 Jul 2009 19:19 GMT Go to www.stepbystepvolvo.com for free guide to 740 no-starts (B230 engine). No spark means four things: (1) bad ignition coil, (2) bad Power Stage, (3) bad rpm sensor, or (4)wiring to above. This assumes that the timing belt has been found to be working. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1362988&rss=1 Thu, 30 Jul 2009 19:11 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/