http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=30234 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sun, 22 Nov 2009 07:51 GMT Sun, 22 Nov 2009 07:51 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Dinomartino- That's a great idea :D Anyway, I hate to see you go from the board. I found a horse-riding mounting block to be really helpful for working on the water pump, but low back pain seems to be unavoidable after that job. Oh, and I forgot to mention the Aluminum power steering pump bracket that had no bushings and a steel bolt runing through it - I had to cut it off using a dremel, which took me 5 hours in the freezing cold, under the damn car because I couldn't fit any decent tools onto the bolts - which had bimetallic corrosion holding them together. HOORAY to whoever decided to save three pounds by making that bracket out of aluminum.... SERIOUSLY? -Will -- 1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387665&rss=1 Sat, 21 Nov 2009 07:42 GMT ...get out of here. Honda? seriously? Maybe toyota, but.... >.< -- 1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387662&rss=1 Sat, 21 Nov 2009 07:38 GMT I definitely understand how you feel. Looks like now, I've finally managed to not check the coolant (which has ALWAYS needed some weekly since it was rebuilt after overheating) just long enough to cause the head gasket to fail. I've replaced both fuel pumps, EGR temp sensor ($400 from the dealer because the PO or Kruse-Lucas Dealer in Modesto, CA put a 92 engine computer with an 89 transmission and a who-knows-what-year-engine in it), completely overhauled the front suspension and got a new shimmy within 10K miles, replaced the water pump THREE times now, not including having to reinstall it twice each time (and I also broke off a stud in the block with a torque wrench), two replacement radiators and a rod/repair of the original (read CRAPPY and too small) brass radiator, god knows how many sets of crappy bosch plug wires that rotted in 4 months, and soggy rear shocks and springs and OH GOD THE TAIL-LIGHTS! New bulbs, new bulb holders (with sheet metal circuits), new gaskets, a GALLON of silicone sealant, a new rear air-dam (Yeah, Thanks PO or Kruse Lucas for attaching it with BAILING WIRE), new front wheel hubs (because you CANNOT replace the bearings as the races are integral to the hubs) and new front rotors, which appeared to be somehow flat-spotted as thought the car sat on the ground with no WHEELS on it...... Yes, this car has been a constant labor to repair and keep reliable and try to get some sort of efficiency (should have done the compression check everyone told me to do years ago). **This actually matters** I did the same thing with the water pump bolt - used a torque wrench to tighten it, despite being told to NEVER use a torque wrench on any head/block bolt. I got lucky and it broke off pretty far out of the threads. I grabbed it with vice grips and had to go find a new bolt at pick and pull. To help with water pump installation (and I've had two brand new Bosch pumps fail on me at the weep hole), pull the fan shroud, fan, radiator, and intercooler. It's annoying buy very worth it. Install the heater tube gasket ON the heater tube, not in the pump, and break off the corner of the timing belt cover that presses on the water pump and makes installation hellish. Good Luck, and let me know if it's a 90 or later turbo engine (and in good shape) and if you're in CA. Maybe you don't need to reinstall the water pump... Good Luck, Will -- 1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387661&rss=1 Sat, 21 Nov 2009 07:35 GMT You can find a good turbo at a junkyard and bolt it on. You may end up blowing your headgasket from the new pressures. Just saying. 8-valves are more modifiable than 16-valves, and are not interference engines - e.g. your timing belt breaks on a 16-valve, new engine. It breaks on an 8-valve, get a spare out of the trunk and keep going after you guess the timing. -Will -- 1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385796&rss=1 Thu, 12 Nov 2009 16:35 GMT 90 740 Turbo My car developed a bad headgasket (I think it had been a long time coming). I'm planning to replace the engine, and currently am using it once a week to get groceries and see my girlfriend. Last night I checked the oil and it is now (wasn't a while ago) the "milkshake" I've heard so much about. Is this just water in the oil? Has it fundamentally changed the properties of the oil? I'm not worried about the engine bearings or anything because I suspect it's a failed weld on the block that caused the bad HG. I AM wondering about getting stuck somewhere after I try to use this apparent wax for oil and about klugding up my turbo passages. The turbo boosts very well, (TD03)though needs a new wastegate assembly. Anyone with a thought, thanks. Will -- 1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385793&rss=1 Thu, 12 Nov 2009 16:33 GMT How does your exhaust smell? Rich? Is it consistent, or does it miss pulses? If you pull the vacuum hose off the fuel pressure regulator, does it smell of fuel, or does any leak out? Good Luck -Will -- 1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385136&rss=1 Mon, 9 Nov 2009 17:12 GMT I'm looking for a time-sert install tool, so I can use it on a single bolt-hole. Does anyone have the install kit that fits a M8x1.25 bolt? Any chance you want to lend it out, possibly for a nominal fee? I don't want to put a helicoil in (especially because the bolt's an inch long and the longest helicoils I've seen locally are 1/4-inch long), and because I don't like helicoils. I think I could fudge the install tool with an M8 bolt and a couple washers, but the shoulder cutting tool might be a problem. I could maybe just counter-drill with a larger bit and do a test install or two. Thanks! Will -- 1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385132&rss=1 Mon, 9 Nov 2009 17:08 GMT Check to see if the key is stuck in start position. Does the blower motor work? -- 1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384063&rss=1 Wed, 4 Nov 2009 07:44 GMT Any result if you hook up a hand vacuum pump? Maybe the gauge has some strange setup. Also, if you T'ed into other lines under the dash, some of them have one-way valves - in other words, how sure are you that it was the line to the turbo? How about if you pull the cluster (10-minute job) and hook up the aftermarket gauge instead of the factory one by switching the vacuum line? Hope that gets you somewhere, Will -- 1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384061&rss=1 Wed, 4 Nov 2009 07:41 GMT http://slo.craigslist.org/cto/1443606513.html There's a listing near me, in Cambria for what looks like a PV444. Just thought I'd put up the link. It's paint isn't in good shape, but the body looks like it's pretty solid. It's by the coast though, so beware hidden rust. Hope this is more help than nuisance, Will -- 1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383442&rss=1 Sun, 1 Nov 2009 17:29 GMT Sure, we're glad to help. *ahem* I always try to read before I mod... lol. anyhow, trial and error does work, but moar boost can lead to moar engine replacement, etc. etc. Also, can you space your posts out a little more? It's a little hard to read, but anyway. It's good that you have the sensor installed inline with the filter - it's the Air Mass Meter (AMM). I'm not sure if bosch/regina matters or applies, but I think the BOV will screw with the mixture. Basically the Bosch setup expects a closed system from the sensor to the throttle plate and a BOV opens it up. I dunno how it would actually work out to have both in place.... Okay, is this black knob attached to the throttle body and throttle plate? Does it have a flat spot for a wrench in the middle, a plastic ball joint on each end, and a lock nut for each end? If that's it, it's a link between the throttle spring setup and the actual throttle plate (anyone, feel free to correct me, I'm only about 70% sure that's the exact function, I haven't looked at it for a while). Adjusting it may adjust your idle (or not - the idle system may be able to compensate, depending on how far it can be adjusted and if the idle system works). I believe it adjusts where wide open throttle on the spool relates to the actual throttle bein wide open or slightly closed, etc. So, if you make it really short, it may make the throttle plate only open 80% at wide open throttle. (I believe that once you're past about 1/2 way open, it's less and less important how far open the throttle actually is.) Anyway, keep them coming, I'll be back tomorrow. You can adjust the link a few ways, but maybe someone else can chime in. I think both ends have the same threads, so tightening the middle might do nothing... then again it's 2 am (1 am with daylight savings time switch). Night, Will -- 1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383379&rss=1 Sun, 1 Nov 2009 09:09 GMT Wow, nice price: okay, so here's the simple breakdown: CBV - the thing you disconnected the vacuum line from (it's on the front side of the turbo and connects to the throttle body) - it opens a valve so that when you let off the gas, it reduces the boost by dumping the boosted air back into the turbo inlet - it way increases your turbo life and reduces strain on intake hosing. Some turbos (like on subarus) use blow-off valves (BOV's) and vent that atmospheric pressure to the air (you can hear a lot of new subarus whistle when they shift). The BOV setup doesn't work well on these cars because it will tell the car it's getting X amount of air, then when the car injects X amount of fuel... Bad things happen. It works fine on cars with MAP sensors, And I think that your car has a hot wire sensor in the airbox top... What did you do with the electrical connector that went to the top of the airbox? Wastegate - it regulates boost by opening a valve once the boost hits a certain level. When it's closed (or at 0 boost), the valve is all the way closed, and it's pushing all the exhaust (or maximum) through the turbo. When it opens, it reduces the amount of exhaust spinning the exhaust side of the turbo. If it's broken, you can get surging, no boost, or overboost. Anything more, you may want to read up in the turbo faq and check out www.howstuffworks.com I'm off and I'll post back later. -Will -- 1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383367&rss=1 Sun, 1 Nov 2009 05:31 GMT Sounds like you have a Garrett Turbo, which I've heard does drop out on boost at higher RPMs. That doesn't mean you have a healthy system otherwise. My car has a Mitsu TD04 and only puts out more oomph (The boost is the same) up to 5300rpm. --Tada-- http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineTurboIdentification.htm Check those out. While the topic is up, I would DEFINITELY get rid of the cone filter, especially if it's a filter you "oil" like a K&N. The stock filtration is much, much better and a cone filter is going to kill your engine life, especially if you live in a dusty area. If you want better airflow, figure out a way to chop the stock box - it also already has a "cold air intake" through the fender, but I guess you could improve it with some large ducting out the bottom of the bumper. Good Luck, Will -- 1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382936&rss=1 Fri, 30 Oct 2009 06:11 GMT Causes: Possible tie rod ends and inner rods Possible bad cone bushings Possible bad ball joints Severe cornering (think racing) As far as tests go, I don't know of many, however you can have someone who trusts you a lot (or vice versa) lie under the car (engine off) while you turn the steering wheel just until the tires start to move. They can listen for pops and clicks and may be able to help you find the cause. In my experience, the pry bar test is either difficult for mechanics to master, or not very effective on a 740. Are your tires balanced right? Do you have any shimmies? What if you rotate the tires? And if you don't rotate them, the center of the rear tires are likely to wear faster. I personally run 36 front, 38 rear. The 740T I have says 32 recommended, 28 if you want. Good Luck, Will -- 1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382457&rss=1 Wed, 28 Oct 2009 05:39 GMT I really hate to say it, but something very similar is happening to me.... In my case, It's definitely a bad head gasket. You can supposedly buy a test kit at Napa for ~10$ that checks for combustion gases in your coolant. How long after starting your car (from cold) does pressure appear in the upper radiator hose? If there's pressure appearing within a few minutes of starting, it's a bad sign. It'll be combustion gas pressurizing the coolant system. Try adding pure antifreeze. My car initially had no white smoke because I was using nearly pure water after many aparent "overheats" while driving only a few miles. After adding antifreeze and burping the system, everything seemed fine - until I started it up later that day, it blew coolant out the reservoir, and started blowing white smoke (not with every engine pulse) out the tailpipe. I sincerely hope it's NOT your head gasket, but I encourage you to get a test kit for exhaust gas in your coolant. Best of Luck, Will -- 1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382456&rss=1 Wed, 28 Oct 2009 05:32 GMT Congratulations and a job well done! One of my motivating factors for fixing my brick (needs engine) is to roll over 300K. I've only got 17K to go.... Happy Bricking for many more miles! Will -- 1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382453&rss=1 Wed, 28 Oct 2009 05:10 GMT Congratulations and a job well done! One of my motivating factors for fixing my brick (needs engine) is to roll over 300K. I've only got 17K to go.... Happy Bricking for many more miles! Will -- 1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382452&rss=1 Wed, 28 Oct 2009 05:10 GMT Wow, that's one reason to dislike quick lube places. Did they change your airfilter too? (or check it?) And I'm not sure I know any 18 year old girls who would want to change the oil in my car - sounds like and interesting story. Glad it's fixed, happy bricking, Will -- 1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380154&rss=1 Sat, 17 Oct 2009 17:34 GMT Possible alternative..... weld it up? Making sure they use high nickel weld rod. -Will -- 1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380151&rss=1 Sat, 17 Oct 2009 17:31 GMT My first thought was bad vacuum lines. I encourage you to spend $20 and replace all your lines (one at a time!) as preventive maintenance. Good Luck, Will -- 1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380150&rss=1 Sat, 17 Oct 2009 17:30 GMT Hey, hope the project's going well. I didn't notice whether or not the hub had to be pulled to remove the dust shields (I thought they were splash shields for puddles). Pulling the hub is only really a pain if the bearings come out, though now I know how to get them back in. They do have plenty of grease in them when shipped new, and I wouldn't see a problem with replacing the grease, though I couldn't tell you a specific type to use other than hi-temp disc brake wheel bearing grease. The bearings themselves are steel ball bearings, based on what I saw and felt. As for pulling the nuts, you're really going to need the correct size socket to get them back on. Also the nuts deform when they're torqued down, hence the extra 45 degree turn once you reach the right torque. They're slightly triangle shaped from the factory. They're like $2 each from FCP groton, and I just replaced mine for the heck of it. Good luck! -Will -- 1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380149&rss=1 Sat, 17 Oct 2009 17:29 GMT The best way to get the sunroof out is to do the following, which I think is also in the faq: -vent sunroof and disconnect springs holding liner panel -unscrew frontmost(4) trays and top rear (2?) screws to remove outer hard panel -remove screws (including 4 under the spring-loaded wind deflector) holding down track (there are about 8 I think) -slide liner panel forward again and remove track with liner panel IN the tracks (you don't want to remove it) Make sure you pay attention to where everything goes (digital camera?) even if only disassembling for a few hours. I had lots of fun reassembling mine 4 times after a few days apart (and with a broken lift arm) Good Luck, Will -- 1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380146&rss=1 Sat, 17 Oct 2009 17:18 GMT I know others have mentioned it, but have you pulled the vacuum tube off the fuel pressure regulator? Check it for leaking gasoline. I believe you can have a bad regulator and still hold full pressure. Instead of dumping the excess pressure to the fuel tank, it dumps it to the injectors. Also, thanks to the poster with the info about creating false lean/rich conditions via the O2 sensor. Seems like some useful info. Good Luck, Will -- 1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378273&rss=1 Fri, 9 Oct 2009 07:20 GMT Have you checked your fan clutch to see if it's stuck on? How about noise-dampening insulation? (like dyna-mats). There's usually a black insulating under-hood panel on turbo models, not sure if it's there on n/a models. If you want better responses, please post more details. -Will -- 1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378272&rss=1 Fri, 9 Oct 2009 07:12 GMT I thought a lot of 760's (i.e. all of them) were turbocharged. -Will PS anyone notice these spam "thank you for good link job" messages? -- 1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377144&rss=1 Sun, 4 Oct 2009 16:17 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/