http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=29232 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sun, 22 Nov 2009 06:37 GMT Sun, 22 Nov 2009 06:37 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. What junkyard distributor can I fit to my B20E to replace the 123 Ignition system? I've never had a real distributor. I need one I can tweak the advance curve plate and springs... I need one with vacuum advance...and I can't find a new Bosch anywhere. Any body got a usable extra? PM me http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384164&rss=1 Wed, 4 Nov 2009 20:16 GMT I don't have a fan clutch...and the cam gear is a brabd new Cloyes http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384135&rss=1 Wed, 4 Nov 2009 17:42 GMT Some of you have helped (B20P, Phil S.) me sort my new B20E to a point where it's a daily driver. Addition of an AFR meter has helped me jet the Mikuni's a little better so I can run 91 gas. I think I hear a couple of pings near bottom in second and third, about 2500 RPM when accelerating, like clackety clack clack...vroom ? I run steady 12.0 to 13.5 on the AFR, with leans at 14.5 to 15.3 at high end, but I don't hear the noise up there... Is this possible? Is there anything available that will sense knock; like a meter...? Pretend I'm deaf, I am a little from working in the corrugated box plant as a young man... http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383993&rss=1 Wed, 4 Nov 2009 00:59 GMT I'm currently of the opinion that I have to change to smaller pilot jets. A small constant manifold leak improves my idle markedly. I'm running my slide stop screws at max...not for more fuel...but for more air! I already have a return spring, and it helps a lot...but you have to find an idle configuration which has the slides resting on the slide stop screws ONLY. Any dependence on original idle stop plate will cause inconsistency. Difficulty here also (as you've mentioned) is torsion between the two slides, if one slide is set higher than the other for manifold balance...making one stick. I have a usable setup, with a consistent 1K idle running at 11.8 to 12.8 afr...still lumpy, and with a little lag on jackrabbit starts I had a short conversation with "planetman" today...nobody considers these "plug and play" retrofits http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382938&rss=1 Fri, 30 Oct 2009 08:11 GMT What are possible junkyard substitutes for my 1970 140 rear end? Parts to repair run close to $ 500.00 (R & P, spiders, install kit, axle bearings) What ancillary problems are there...emergency brake, brake lines, susp parts....? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382784&rss=1 Thu, 29 Oct 2009 17:48 GMT Update...! From Thursday Oct 21. On closer inspection...the AFR gauge pegs lean when I step on the gas (part throttle from any cruise condition, typically around 3K) then drops to 15.5 to 16.1 depending on whether you continue to accelerate. IMHO I think I need to reshape the needle with a "step" reduction somewhere in the first inch. With new 195 mains...idle is clearly running rich at 12.1 to 12.7 and tailpipe noticeable... http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381051&rss=1 Wed, 21 Oct 2009 18:55 GMT I know that the accel pump dumps a bunch of fuel when you jump the slides...AEM (the AFR Gauge) guy tells me that the meter will peg from whatever side of 14.7 it's on...I'm assuming that I peg rich...and as I stay in the throttle (we're talking full accel here)...that the gauge read at 15.6 up to 16.2...means that my part throttle/full load mix is too lean... I'm not unhappy with the porting that was done on the head...it sure sounds like it's breathing as best it can...my thought is ...Where am I in relation to needle opening...I mean I'm fine from zero to 1/4 throttle...I'm fine on full main...how do I shape the needle to get my AFR read under 14 from 1/4 thru to full main. If I had an EMS you could program the curve...the needle is OUR EMS... I've isolated slide stops from existing throttle stop...it requires running the slide stops within a 1/2 turn from full extension to maintain the idle at 1K...but the incosistency of existing throttle linkage is eliminated. I've bought larger pilot jets from Sudco...but am hoping raising the needles will correct the idle enough so I can lower the slide stops. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380945&rss=1 Wed, 21 Oct 2009 07:12 GMT Taking into account all suggestions 1.Switched plugs as per B20paul...better...no Knock, less dieseling 2. reset timing at 13...reconnected vacuum advance 3. Changed to 195 mains...installed UEGO gauge for AFR reading Reads 13.2 at idle (1000) Goes "out of range" rich when first getting on it then drops into 15's and 16's if you stay in it...back to 14.2-14.5 at cruise. I can raise the needles two more slots...or do I need a bigger main? Or do I shape the needle somehow to add more at 1/4 to 1/2 throttle? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380869&rss=1 Wed, 21 Oct 2009 00:09 GMT Local Volvo nut/mechanic says he has '73 steering set up which will fit directly into my '70 142S...giving me Power Steering. Might be nice for those P205/50/15's I've been looking at... Anyone done this before? My new B20E has mounting bosses cast into the head for the pump... http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1376538&rss=1 Thu, 1 Oct 2009 20:21 GMT My idle is always indeterminate...meaning...I have no idea where it's going to end up...on an extended period it's at 870-900 kinda lumpy...coming to a stop it can be 1000, fairly smooth OR 1300 real smooth...but a throttle blip brings it back to 870-900 kinda lumpy. I think I have to get the idle set based on the Mikuni idle slide screws only....and negate any interference from the original throttle assy. BUT I haven't been able to find a combination which will allow that yet (considering I'm always backing off advance trying to get rid of knock/ping (see earlier post i.e. "what is Knock VS. pre-ign.)At 10 deg advance, it'll only run if I raise slide screws to maximum, I'm currently at 15 deg advance. YES...my overflow tubes leak on shutdown...I thought that was what caused dieseling on shutdown...tried a pressure regulator...but it won't work without a return gas tank line...1970 doesn't have one...'71 does...if it's an "E". Hey...who said this was going to be "plug and play" http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1375548&rss=1 Mon, 28 Sep 2009 00:46 GMT Since you've taken interest...I'll continue. Reset valve lash on intakes to .013 yesterday, left exh at .015. Smoothed idle further. Cured dieseling on shutoff...??? Detonation VS. ping... My rookie ears hear a clacking sound, when ever I get back on it...in any gear...but typically between 2500 and 3000...which I'm assuming is pre-ign or detonation. It goes away after 3200 and engines spins nicely to 6000 plus at which time one can't hear anything but the noise generated by the tranny...which I think is input bearing or worn layshaft. As per timing...I'm limited by my earlier purchase of a 123ignition. Currently running on B20B advance curve...which JP says is the slowest...without vacuum hooked up. NGK BP6HS plugs set at .035, 8 mm Taylor wires, pertronix 40k coil (1.5 ohm primary) As per Mikuni's...bought from JP with smaller float bowls (for mech fuel pump), running size 192.5 mains with standard needles, set at 3 notches from bottom, rubber mounts, integral iron manifold with large balance tube, no secondary butterflies. Pump gas (91) with Outlaw (ferosene) octane boost, one bottle per 10 gals. Going to buy some 106 oct at Infineon Raceway this week...just to see if it helps. $ 7.00 USD per gal...but only 12 minutes away from home. AFR meter going in this week...hope to have better diagnostics in future. As we get older...and deafer it gets more difficult..is there something that senses knock or det.?? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1375499&rss=1 Sun, 27 Sep 2009 18:49 GMT I'm not impressed either...with the cam. I'd be happier if it idled smoothly, or didn't ping. My options now are: 1. Rework "F" head for lower compression (off old engine)and fit (600 bucks?) 2. Replace cam with "D" grind or Singher design (any better?) Or do both... My only saving grace was I didn't skimp on block rebuild http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1375129&rss=1 Fri, 25 Sep 2009 23:58 GMT Tightening up the valve lash to .014 Int, .015 exhaust made a marked difference in smoothness, but not neccessarily butt dyno improvement. Dema gives this quixotic response to your questions... Hello, There are compressions that the engine sees. 1. measuredchamber cc + swept volumn in cc divided by the camber cc= Static comp 2. Effective comp when the int valve closes. High V.E. about 7-1 ratio and 9-1 with about 60% V.E. or alky fuel with aluminum head. #3. Dynamic comp is when the engine is running at max TQ and that is when the V.E. is increased. ....Most companies advertise seat duration at the cam and lifter interface. Only a few will give duration at the VALVE due to rocker ratios and valve lash differences.....A lot of my engine builder customers will check the intake centerline when installed or check at .050" tappet lift fo the cam duraton @.050" and the int lobe centerline.....That is when the cam is adjusted depending on comp and int closng point......When the cam design has easy clearance ramps that allows you to adjust the int closing point.....Dema Elgin I'M NOT GETTING IT.... http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1372323&rss=1 Mon, 14 Sep 2009 19:01 GMT 0 0231.146.026A B18-A until 1966 ( also VALP ) 13 39 1 0231.146.026B B18-A after 1966 15 41 2 0231.153.003 B18-B 10 36 3 0231.153.009 B18-B with pollution reduction 3-5 33 4 0231.146.077 B20-A 14 40 5 0231.170.085 B20-A, aluminium body 10 36 6 0231.170.085 B20-A, aluminium body 10 36 ( curve optimised for E85, LPG ) 7 0231.146.078 B20-B 10 34 8 0231.146.098 B20-D 10 34 9 0231.163.006 B20-E 1971-73 10 35 A 0231.170.087 B20-E 1974 10 32 B 0231.170.087 B20-E 10 32 ( curve optimised for E85, LPG ) C 0231.163.033 B20-F 10 34 I'm currently on 7. which JP says is the slowest ramping curve. Unfortunately 123 won't show curves in graphic structure, all JP has are data tables. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1371576&rss=1 Fri, 11 Sep 2009 13:52 GMT Will pass on your questions to Dema: About how it goes. I'm running 91 Oct with Oct Booster Running 123 Ign on b20B curve, no vacuum advance, at about 8 deg BTDC idle It goes like greased spit between 2000 and 6000 with a lovely hammer and anvil punctuation exhaust note, except I have a crummy M40 that vibrates severely above 4500 (inlet bearing or layshaft failure) I have a better one coming from Gregg Morris of VCBC soon to arrive. I think it pings at high rev...but I don't know what I'm listening for. I'm installing an AFR meter next week (AEM style) for more diagnostics and for dyno prep. I had a stuck throttle episode yesterday, and I know it'll spin 7K plus (no load)...lucky not to break anything. HSR's running on 192.5 main jets, std needles, #25 pilot jets, plugs look clean, with a little Oct Boost red color. I have an inconsistent idle speed problem to solve...acts like the slides are sticking. I think it's because it takes part throttle to run at idle (1000 rpm), which means I've got main jet bleed adding to pilot jet...a throttle blip SOMETIMES cures it, but not always. I think the part throttle is adding to my dieseling effect as well. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1371496&rss=1 Thu, 10 Sep 2009 23:52 GMT Just some old info...Used 44 x 36 valves (SS) Chambers at 48cc , 0 deck, Elring gasket, ARP head studs. Car doesn't idle well, and diesels on shutdown...I asked Dema Elgin about your chart, and here is his response: Hello, The int closing point is about 70 degrees at the valve!!! You seem to have some sort of a tuning problem. 274 total duration with 108 lobe centers = 58 degrees of overlap at the CAM and timing of 29-65 at the cam. When the cam goes through the rocker arm the valve timing is increased!!! Make sure that you do not have the valve lash set too loose for that will affect the seat to seat timing. We have a lot of the 68.508-16 cams running on the street with NO problems. The 7-1 effective comp is with a int system that has no restrictions like what is on many high perf engines.For some reason people DO NOT understand that DYNAMIC comp is when the engine is producing max TQ not just calculated compression on the engine stand with the int valve closing. The tightest lash hot can be in the range of .012"-.014" and if you were to check to see when the int valve closed it would be past 70 degrees. Dema Elgin HAVE YET TO READJUST VALVE LASH, INITIAL SETTING WAS .015 COLD http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1371437&rss=1 Thu, 10 Sep 2009 18:47 GMT Somewhere I've seen a thread discussing ways to force positive caster other than hanging a bunch of shims on the control arm bracket bolt, which IMHO looks like a way to court a broken bolt. I think one was to shim the front of the crossmember...anyone seen this thread? I've been using Rhys' suggestions from an earlier thread, and like the handling...plus 4 caster, 1/2 neg camber, 1/16 toe (but in my case the best they could do was plus 3.5 caster (with shims).. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1370997&rss=1 Tue, 8 Sep 2009 23:36 GMT My '70 142S has 43 teeth on the big gear, and 10 on the pinion...this makes it a 4.30 rear drive? Since I'm dropping it to install a TrueTrac...should I change the drive ratio as well?? There's 4.11 and 3.73 gear sets available... http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1366202&rss=1 Sat, 15 Aug 2009 16:00 GMT We ported properly, with new SS Valves flush with "as cast" surface, and then removed what was needed to get compression down to under 10.5 to 1. We ended up with 48cc per chamber, with our 0.0 deck and an Elring crush to .035 gasket we figure we're at 10.42 to 1. You can see the progression on the other thread. The SS Valves sold by JP (made by SI in California), have a definitely thicker valve margin, which negates their use as a direct swap for factory valves. we didn't go any further with the porting. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1366059&rss=1 Sat, 15 Aug 2009 00:16 GMT Another chance for those watching my "performance" rebuild to weigh in judiciously. My now 10.4 to 1 B20E, with dual v-springs medium lift cam and twin mikunis needs manifolds...I have a pre air pump integral for carbs, a pre '68 shorty aluminum intake, and a FI exhaust (ceramic coated). Easist swap is the integral, which has my current and fairly well working throttle linkage. Any opinions as to whether there is a performance difference between the two setups? Integral VS. Shorty + FI. I note the balance tube on the integral is about twice the diameter of the one on the shorty intake. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1365925&rss=1 Thu, 13 Aug 2009 21:44 GMT <img src='/GALLERY/images/8731.jpg'/> Reworked chamber to get to 10.4 to 1, now 48cc volume... http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1365196&rss=1 Mon, 10 Aug 2009 22:10 GMT <img src='/GALLERY/images/8730.jpg'/> Updated Pic of chamber..August 10 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1365142&rss=1 Mon, 10 Aug 2009 17:52 GMT All my research points to people trying to end up at 10 to 1 (because of today's gas quality) I think I was overreacting to the engine builders statement "we may have a problem..."...Now that I think about it and look around, I can see Phil S. built his MPPE to 11 to 1... http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1364865&rss=1 Sun, 9 Aug 2009 15:56 GMT Cylinder Head Volume (cc) Cylinder Head Vol (cubic in.) 02.684 Piston Head Volume (cc) Piston Head Vol (cubic in.) 00.000 Gasket Thickness (in.) Swept Volume (cubic in.) 31.003 Gasket Bore (in.) T.D.C. Volume (cubic in.) 03.031 Cylinder Bore Diameter (in.) Gasket Volume (cubic in.) 00.347 Deck Clearance (in.) Note: Neg. nubmer above deck, Pos. number below deck Deck Volume (cubic in.) 00.000 Stroke (in.) STATIC COMPRESSION RATIO 11.229 Post porting data as "bubbled"... Do I run it??? .040 over, balanced, 274 deg cam, .426 lift, dual v/springs, SBC lifters, Isky p/rods, dual Mikuni's... I have an "F" head available, but currently stock, and in need of rebuild. Ron Sonoma http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1364741&rss=1 Sat, 8 Aug 2009 23:13 GMT It's a cable problem..as you suspected. The dash wheel does not move the cable at all. Closed by hand, the heat went away. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1362967&rss=1 Thu, 30 Jul 2009 17:15 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/