http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=28076 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sun, 22 Nov 2009 03:28 GMT Sun, 22 Nov 2009 03:28 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Haha I don't know why I'm sticking my nose into this one so much but after I was done sending a message to the shady dealership I also sent a note to Volvo NA via their website. Again I was not expecting a response, but guess what happened! They wrote me back! <pre> Hello Joel, Please continue to watch Freya's story. I'm sure she will update everyone as we work through this. We consider our owners family, and we do not ignore family. Thank you for writing in! Drive Safely, Bill Casey </pre> I am encouraged by this Bill Casey's comforting tone - I can see why he's answering emails! :) This is the kind of response I would expect from a company like Volvo. I hope they stick it to that dealership. what a small difference 10 minutes of polite but firm email writing can accomplish! http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1387625&rss=1 Sat, 21 Nov 2009 01:49 GMT haha check this one out too. When I first heard of her story on Autoblog I went the rusnak volvo website and left a note for them informing them that the story was reaching wider attention in the online media and to perhaps lend a hand prompting them to give her some attention. I never thought they would write BACK to me! <pre> Dear Client. Freya has received a complimentary transmission at 86000 mile on her 2001 vehicle and now wants another one at 100000 at no charge. The cost is over 5000 dollars. Would you pay it this ridiculous request? "Please reserve judgments till both sides of a conflict have been heard" Thank You . Yohan Haddad General Manager Rusnak | Pasadena Volvo Office: (626)-229-6776 Main: (626) 577-6661 2025 E. Colorado Blvd Pasadena, CA 91107 www.rusnakonline.com </pre> I don't want to get into a flame war with this guy, so I won't respond. But seriously, if you put in a trans for her and it died after 14k miles you did something wrong. Also Freya states on her website that the first trans was replaced under a warranty which she purchased. She also states that she repeatedly told the folks at the dealership that she didn't think it was working properly many times while the warranty was still in effect, only to have them wait out the warranty and then nail her with the news that she needs another new trans. I have heard some horror stories about dealerships in my day but this one takes the cake. Please feel free to send this guy a note to let him know the Volvo world is listening. Also please stay far away from this dealership! http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1387612&rss=1 Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:36 GMT I completely agree. A compression test would put these guys in their place pretty fast, and I don't understand why her indie didn't do that for her. Leaking heater hoses should be very easy to see, and also a risky thing to leave as they could leave you with no coolant in a hurry. Also a trans should last a long time. I would be thinking either they put a used one in the first time or they f@#$ed the job up and that's why it has failed. Either way they need to stand behind that one. I also think, however, shame on Volvo NA for not helping this lady out. I would think Volvo NA would have a vested interest in hunting down these rotten dealers and either getting rid of them or selling them to someone who wants to run them properly. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1387609&rss=1 Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:25 GMT The front wheels are the same on the AWDs as the FWDs. Here is a good place to start: <a href="http://volvospeed.com/Repair/FWDbearingHub.php">http://volvospeed.com/Repair/FWDbearingHub.php</a> There is other info available online if you search around a bit. It's not a really tough job as long as things aren't rusted up too badly. I would buy a can of good penetrating fluid (PBBlaster) and spray your axle nut, the four torx bolts, in behind the rotor, and around the back of the hub where it fits against the carrier (from behind) every day for a week leading up to the operation to make disassembly as easy as possible. Stuck rotors can often be displaced by loosening the lug bolts 1/4-1/2 turn and then driving to the end of the driveway and slamming the brakes really hard. Get a bottle of antiseize for reassembly and use it on everything. Take your calipers apart while you're at it and clean and lube the sliding pins with a good brake grease. Also a good time to do sway bar end links if they're bad (and they often are). http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1387558&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 19:37 GMT actually I think we should all take 2 minutes and send a letter to volvo na's website as Freya suggests. It will only take a minute of your time. And honestly if you were in trouble like this wouldn't you want fellow brickers to get behind you? <a href="http://rusmackedvolvo.com/2009/11/19/letter-to-volvo/">http://rusmackedvolvo.com/2009/11/19/letter-to-volvo/</a> http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1387543&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:01 GMT I feel obliged to warn off fellow brickers to this dealership. I don't know how many of you are in California, but this might be one to keep away from. It seems like this lady could use a hand Volvo... <a href="http://www.autoblog.com/2009/11/20/video-disgruntled-volvo-owner-starts-blog-crafts-lament-in-her/">http://www.autoblog.com/2009/11/20/video-disgruntled-volvo-owner-starts-blog-crafts-lament-in-her/</a> See her whole story here: <a href="http://www.rusmackedvolvo.com">http://www.rusmackedvolvo.com</a> http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1387538&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:46 GMT I can't comment out of experience, but the prevailing wisdom on this board seems to be that the 93's are a weird beast with some uncommon parts and they live in their own plane of existence... that said there are folks that have them with little-to-no problems, so the strangeness may be manageable. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1387382&rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 19:43 GMT I got a two piece rubber bushing from FCP that did not require the shell. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1387380&rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 19:40 GMT I commented on someone else's worries about the poly bushing recently in another thread: <a href="http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1386914/V70/yes_v7driver_careful_poly_mount.html">http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1386914/V70/yes_v7driver_careful_poly_mount.html</a> I have the two-piece rubber mount from FCP and like it a lot. Easy install, but without the crazy vibration transmission of the pu. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1387354&rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 18:09 GMT I would see no problem in using anti-seize on the plug threads. No need to gob it on there though. Also be aware that you'll have to reduce your torque on them - anti-seize generally changes the torque required to fully seat a threaded fastener. I don't know how they're supposed to be torqued come to think of it - I always use the "finger-tight-plus-1/3-turn" method. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1387320&rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 13:39 GMT I have never done this on the regular FWD car. I would expect you to lose a little bit but not much. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1387131&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 16:02 GMT do some reading to verify for yourself, but I'm pretty sure DEXRON III H was the last spec released before DEXRON was cancelled. I think most fluids labelled "DEX III" meet the DEXRON III H spec, but there is no way to really know since the DEXRON licensing is done now. Here is a thread on bobistheoilguy that might interest you: <a href="http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1196391">http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1196391</a> I would be willing to bet anything that meets the new DEXRON VI spec is okay, but I would want you to verify that for yourself. GM is recommending all GM cars that call for DEXRON III cars use DEXRON VI now... http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1386979&rss=1 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 19:39 GMT have a look online - there is lots of help on this. <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B-wX-A8YfXs">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B-wX-A8YfXs</a> http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1386967&rss=1 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 18:57 GMT Have you ever changed the fluid in your trans? If not I'd be willing to bet when you get it out into a container it will look black like used engine oil - every single FWD/AWD Volvo I've ever checked had burnt fluid, and most other FWD cars I check do too. I'd definitely stay away from additives for now. You're going to have to be careful about what fluid to put in there - there seems to be some confusion about which years/models had which transmission. I think the general rule of thumb is that the 4 speed transmissions used DEXIII while the 5 speed transmissions used the 3309. If you need DEXIII go with a cheaper fluid, then flush again with a more expensive fluid after a few thousand miles. If you need 3309 you can buy the Volvo fluid, Mobil 1 3309, or Toyota fluid that meets 3309 spec. Some have suggested Toyota dealer is the cheapest place to find this. Either way, these fluids do not appear to be compatible with the wrong trans so be very sure you're using the right stuff before proceeding. DO NOT USE A POWER FLUSH MACHINE UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES Also keep in mind it may be too late for a fluid change to help you. Prudence would dictate flushes at a regular interval to ward off problems, and definitely at the first sign of trouble. Waiting until you hear the clunks usually means you're too late. Still it's a pretty cheap thing to try before diving in to a trans swap. If you do have to put another trans on there, get a used one and flush the fluid right away - new/rebuilt ones are pretty pricey. Also do the rear main seal on the engine and any seals on the trans you can reach without pulling it apart - it's expensive to go in there again later. BTW a trans fluid flush should definitely be something you can do yourself in your driveway. Search around on this forum and other Volvo sites for help. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1386952&rss=1 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 18:04 GMT The regular volvo mount is very hard to install. I used a two-piece rubber mount from FCP and really like it. <a href="http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/product_id/3103/nm/Volvo_V70_Upper_Engine_Torque_Rod_Bushing_1998_Ramac_/category_id/110">http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/product_id/3103/nm/Volvo_V70_Upper_Engine_Torque_Rod_Bushing_1998_Ramac_/category_id/110</a> BTW the other engine mounts are probably wearing, which is why there is so much vibration to transfer in the first place. New engine mounts all around are probably in order to completely rectify the problem. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1386914&rss=1 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 15:34 GMT I don't have much advice for you on the fuel pressure regulator. I know if you find fuel in the vac line you need a new FPR. Did you replace the fuel pump with a used unit? it may be that the check valve in the replacement pump is faulty. Or it may be that you caused a small break/perforation in one of the fuel lines by moving it when you were working with them... There are others who have dealt with similar problems. Please do a search of the forums to find more info. I made a post about possibly using an external check valve on this thread: <a href="http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/product_id/5151/nm/1985_1992_Volvo_740_Turbo_Fuel_Pump_Check_Valve/category_id/151">http://www.fcpgroton.com/product-exec/product_id/5151/nm/1985_1992_Volvo_740_Turbo_Fuel_Pump_Check_Valve/category_id/151</a> http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1386912&rss=1 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 15:30 GMT FYI there is nothing wrong with using hex head bolts in this location. I for one have already done this. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1386686&rss=1 Mon, 16 Nov 2009 17:47 GMT Good to know - I didn't realize there was such a difference with the cheap mounts. I'll keep that in mind. I agree with Klaus on the CV boot thing too. If you've already got a rip you might as well do the whole axle. The water/air/dirt/etc will already have caused enough damage in there that you should just go all the way and get that thing out of there in favour of new parts. You could save yourself some money on the other side and replace only the boot. It is a messy job and basically the same amount of work as swapping in a new axle as you have to remove the old axle to do the boot... I chose to do the boots on my V70 because I got it before the boots ripped - they just looked old so I did them. It wasn't too tough, but it would have been a long day if I wasn't pulling the suspension apart for something else (replacing lower control arm). Still, do yourself a favour and junk the axle with the torn boot. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1386640&rss=1 Mon, 16 Nov 2009 13:15 GMT maybe you are referring to the fuel pressure regulator? - fuel in from pump - fuel out at regulated pressure to the engine - fuel return to the tank - vacuum lines to operate regulator ?? http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1386638&rss=1 Mon, 16 Nov 2009 13:07 GMT I cannot speak to whether the bevel gear is your problem or not, but I have some info on them as I have been looking into this myself for the past year or so. Erie-Vo-Vo (<a href="http://www.erievovo.com/">http://www.erievovo.com/</a>) will sell you a guaranteed-for-life used unit for about $800 and they ship for free to the US. You'd have to install it yourself or pay your indie to do it. Also as long as there is no internal damage to the gears they can be rebuilt for considerably less than your quotes - ie: replace all seals and bearings. If the gears are damaged I think you'd have to get another unit as there does not appear to be any way to buy the gears separately. FCP can get you the parts for about $250 and the labour to have the unit rebuilt by a trans shop (for example) would be about the same cost (so 250 + 250 = ~$500). Here is the thread I started about rebuilding (this could be found with a search, which you should always do before posting): <a href="http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1376832/V70/info_bevel_gear_rebuild.html">info on bevel gear rebuild</a> Good luck. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1386576&rss=1 Mon, 16 Nov 2009 02:09 GMT Here is the 2010 model they are planning to reveal: <a href="http://www.autoblog.com/2009/11/10/lookin-swede-volvo-reveals-geneva-bound-2010-s60-sedan/">http://www.autoblog.com/2009/11/10/lookin-swede-volvo-reveals-geneva-bound-2010-s60-sedan/</a> http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1385389&rss=1 Tue, 10 Nov 2009 18:04 GMT I don't think it will hurt to flush the hell out of it as you suggest. I used a garden hose to do it. Be sure to have lots of distilled water on hand so that when you're done with that you can flush the garden hose water out with the distilled water. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1385329&rss=1 Tue, 10 Nov 2009 11:54 GMT haha well said Klaus. Jumpering will get you out of a jam but it's not a safe long term solution at all. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1385025&rss=1 Mon, 9 Nov 2009 00:32 GMT Volvo has unofficially announced that a new S60 model will be introduced very soon - 12 months-ish. Here is an interview with Volvo NA CEO where he discusses how proud he is of it: <a href="http://www.autolinedetroit.tv/show/1334">http://www.autolinedetroit.tv/show/1334</a> I guess until it's officially announced everything else is heresay, but it sounds pretty set in stone to me. They might not call it the S60 though - it sounds to me like their whole S series strategy is being revamped. I read once that the S40 and S60 would be replaced with a car smaller than the latter and larger than the former. A 2 for one deal. There's been no more news on that for a while though... http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1384916&rss=1 Sun, 8 Nov 2009 16:32 GMT P0455 = Fuel tank system, large leak, signal low or high, Volvo code EFI-611 This is maybe related to overfilling the fuel tank and filling the evap system up? Maybe evap system is not working properly? haha or maybe you have a fuel tank leak?! P1620 = Engine cool fan low speed signal high, Volvo code EFI-514 this is pointing to an electrical problem with the fan relay or the fan itself. This is the cause of your rough running, as if you're getting this code the fuel and air trim are disabled as a 'safe mode' so you can get home. I don't know if P1017 is a real code. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1384550&rss=1 Fri, 6 Nov 2009 20:58 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/