http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=2796 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 22:00 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 22:00 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. <i>So whatever you get as a replacement should work in your car</i> It should be mentioned that the newer type motor is not a direct fit. Some alteration of the housing for the original motor is required. This also presumes that the original fan motor has not been replaced. On a car of this vintage, it may already have been done. -- '80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386645&rss=1 Mon, 16 Nov 2009 13:44 GMT Tasca sez: 1205785 Splash shield Left 1205786 Splash shield Right -- '80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385931&rss=1 Fri, 13 Nov 2009 03:08 GMT Try http://www.k-jet.org/ TP30454-1 part 1 & part 2 should have what you need. I believe it covers through '82. -- '80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385249&rss=1 Tue, 10 Nov 2009 01:00 GMT Glad it worked out. -- '80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385244&rss=1 Tue, 10 Nov 2009 00:53 GMT Check out this one, Art. <img src='http://www.brickboard.com/GALLERY/images/8904.jpg'/> What is ironic is I called Tasca at the time, late 2006, and the guy I talked to claimed they didn't have them. If only I'd just gone on line. So I got robbed at the local dealer. Live and learn, I guess. Oh yeah, a guy I work with offered to powder coat the new items since the metal was clean and he wouldn't have to prep. So I gladly accepted his offer. I could have opted for red or blue but I went for basic black. -- '80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385243&rss=1 Tue, 10 Nov 2009 00:53 GMT If you need the big plate you probably also need the small one that is held on by the same fasteners. The two parts may be rusted together and seem as one. Volvo Part #'s are 1272469 for the splash shield (big plate) and 1272102 for the protector plate (small plate). I just checked Tasca's website and they list them both. http://www.tascafordparts.com/ Prices were pretty reasonable. $39.94 ea and $12.35 ea. + shipping of course. Even with UPS ground charges it's a damn sight less than I paid a few years ago at my local Volvo dealer. -- '80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385154&rss=1 Mon, 9 Nov 2009 18:39 GMT Yes, for an '84 model it is cable driven. Try <a href=http://www.odometergears.com/cable.html>http://www.odometergears.com/cable.html</a> if you haven't already discovered them. Certainly sounds like a gear problem. -- '80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382037&rss=1 Mon, 26 Oct 2009 17:20 GMT It looks like a Ba7s, which was also the standard instrument light for the pre-81 cluster. If you determine that's what you have and find the LED equivalent, please post your result. I'd be interested to know. -- '80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379818&rss=1 Fri, 16 Oct 2009 11:07 GMT Exactly. And doing an adjustment at the tie rod ends allows for as much or as little adjustment as you need. It won't change your alignment despite what the detractors are saying. And it won't change the toe-in if you do it correctly. Altair described it perfectly. -- '80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377889&rss=1 Wed, 7 Oct 2009 16:53 GMT I wonder what has happened to Art? He usually stays on the case and could explain this better than I can. You are correct that the greater the duty cycle the richer the mixture. It is not control pressure but system pressure that is affected. When the frequency valve is open for a longer interval more fuel is returned to the tank and pressure is reduced in the lower part of the differential pressure valves in the fuel distributor. Pressure drop at the metering slits is increased and more fuel flows to the injectors. -- '80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377811&rss=1 Wed, 7 Oct 2009 10:50 GMT <i>Is this a timed indicator</i> Yes. There is a device under the dash that is driven by the odometer and it causes the reminder light to come on after X number of miles. It is not connected to the Lambda system. -- '80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377810&rss=1 Wed, 7 Oct 2009 10:28 GMT ...http://www.kjet.org/. Many Greenbooks available there but most if not all are for early models. Still, much of the info is applicable to later years. Your car will have 3.73:1 rear axle ratio, if original. -- '80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377641&rss=1 Tue, 6 Oct 2009 17:37 GMT The switch screws into the gearbox case on the top, right. In that pic the contact switch is facing you. The bullet connector is inside what you call "the nylon looking plunger." -- '80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377529&rss=1 Tue, 6 Oct 2009 11:12 GMT <i>And can I use it to adjust rich/lean?</i> Actually, this is covered in the 700/900 FAQ. It is rather obscure though and I wouldn't mess with it unless absolutely necessary. I would suggest waiting for input from those more knowledgeable on the subject. See, <a href=http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineFuelinjection.htm#SettingBaseIdle>http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineFuelinjection.htm#SettingBaseIdle</a>. -- '80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377374&rss=1 Mon, 5 Oct 2009 17:43 GMT The code on the service label refers to the calipers. ATE front calipers will only be found on very early production 240's. Another popular replacement rotor for the 240 is Brembo. Anyway, sounds like you are good for a while in the brake department. Flushing the brake fluid every couple of years is recommended. So good work on doing that. -- '80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377224&rss=1 Mon, 5 Oct 2009 00:49 GMT If they're both solid rotors, no difference. -- '80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1376995&rss=1 Sat, 3 Oct 2009 23:17 GMT You are so right. I was not careful in my reading of the original post. However the place to correct it is still at the outer tie rod ends. To remove the steering wheel for this situation is just crazy. -- '80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1376641&rss=1 Fri, 2 Oct 2009 10:31 GMT It isn't the crank that can be damaged but rather the guide pin on the timing belt sprocket. The point is, you want to immobilize the crank pulley, either directly with the tool or indirectly with the rope method. Impact wrench or starter method can potentially lead to this situation because the sudden jolt can sometimes cause the pulley to travel along with the bolt. Even if the pin doesn't break at the time of repair it can be weakened and may fail further on down the road. Here's a post from last year on the 700 forum that also applies to the 200. <a href=http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1289538/740/760/780/crankshaft_pulley_gear_tab_pic.html>http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1289538/740/760/780/crankshaft_pulley_gear_tab_pic.html</a> And here is the pic from that post that shows the result. <img src=http://i18.photobucket.com/albums/b107/Volvo745/Volvo/img_0235.jpg> -- '80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1375279&rss=1 Sat, 26 Sep 2009 18:19 GMT <i>You WILL screw up the balance of the driveshaft</i> This is rather insulting to those of us who can and do service our own driveshafts. It is not as difficult as you would have some believe. -- '80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1375146&rss=1 Sat, 26 Sep 2009 01:40 GMT What gear lube are you using? How old is it? Redline MTL will cure that reluctant first gear and reverse, given everything else is up to spec. -- '80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1375141&rss=1 Sat, 26 Sep 2009 01:32 GMT Seems to me like they only fit one way. As I recall there are one or more 'blank' spots in the coupling with corresponding raised area on the pinion shaft. Even if not, I agree with altair. The place to correct this is at the outer tie rods ends. You could make a finer adjustment that way. It's also a lot easier than jacking around with that damn coupling. Those things can be a real bear. -- '80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1375139&rss=1 Sat, 26 Sep 2009 01:22 GMT That's because I don't keep an email address in my profile. Sorry about that. But thanks for trying. I asked because somewhere amongst my tools is an old dent puller that might be adapted for the purpose. Not that I really need to. Glad you got yours out with no problem. -- '80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1374534&rss=1 Wed, 23 Sep 2009 09:55 GMT This guy used to keep a store front in Johnson County and he was a pirate. -- '80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1374210&rss=1 Mon, 21 Sep 2009 22:40 GMT Could you describe the 'do-hickey'? It's always good to have another trick in the bag. -- '80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1373867&rss=1 Sun, 20 Sep 2009 13:52 GMT Pilot bearing puller. -- '80 DL 2 door, '89 DL Wagon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1373854&rss=1 Sun, 20 Sep 2009 13:12 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/