http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=27825 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 23:22 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 23:22 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. When I wrote the add, I thought that I'd be scaring away people by writing too much. I think now that the add is a filter for people who have a clue what I am selling. Someone called today and wants to see the car. He is looking for his dad who owns several Volvos in Sacramento. Sounds like a good deal. I am hoping it doesn't go to someone that runs it into the ground and sends all those really cool parts to the junk yard. Best Regards, Mark -- Mark Mueller, '82 Volvo 245 - Very Green, B21F, Strut brace, electric radiator fan, A cam, Urethane Bushings, Bilstein Sport Shocks, IPD lower springs, Perf Exhaust, 740 10 sp wheels, 2-7/8' stainless exhaust tip adds 20 hp. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1344259&rss=1 Fri, 17 Apr 2009 03:42 GMT Charles, I love that green! Well of course that would be expected. People either like it or hate it. I applied the paint with a 4" touch up roller. I can beat most novices driving any other car in autocrosses even with the gutless engine. I am hoping I find someone who can realize the true value of this car. Best Regards, Mark. -- Mark Mueller, '82 Volvo 245 - Very Green, B21F, Strut brace, electric radiator fan, A cam, Urethane Bushings, Bilstein Sport Shocks, IPD lower springs, Perf Exhaust, 740 10 sp wheels, 2-7/8' stainless exhaust tip adds 20 hp. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1344252&rss=1 Fri, 17 Apr 2009 03:14 GMT I wanted to write and say goodbye to all the wonderful folks here on the brickboard. You have been a lot of help and have made owning my 240 wagon a great experience. I am selling my green 240 and moving on to the next thing. It's a little sad. I think most people would look at the pictures in the craigslist add and say oh there's another mouldering old Volvo. It's actually a great car that needs some driveline attention, more attention than I can give it right now. All the Best! Mark. http://humboldt.craigslist.org/cto/1121390072.html -- Mark Mueller, '82 Volvo 245 - Very Green, B21F, Strut brace, electric radiator fan, A cam, Urethane Bushings, Bilstein Sport Shocks, IPD lower springs, Perf Exhaust, 740 10 sp wheels, 2-7/8' stainless exhaust tip adds 20 hp. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1343717&rss=1 Tue, 14 Apr 2009 05:32 GMT I disconnected the vacuum hose and plugged it. I also changed the idle timing to 12 btdc. No knocking, power still limited, about the same as before. I put regular gas in. Around town no knocking. I'll try it on the freeway this afternoon. I'll probably leave it this way for now. I have bigger better plans in the wings time to stop agonizing over the old engine. Best Regards, Mark. -- Mark Mueller, '82 Volvo 245 - Very Green, B21F, Strut brace, electric radiator fan, A cam, Urethane Bushings, Bilstein Sport Shocks, IPD lower springs, Perf Exhaust, 740 10 sp wheels, 2-7/8' stainless exhaust tip adds 20 hp. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1337944&rss=1 Sun, 15 Mar 2009 22:00 GMT Shannon, I found the ignition controller for my car on the bottom of page 22. Volvo part number 1317873. I am sure the distributer just goes around and doesn't have any advance or retard capability. By "verified system pressure and control pressure" are you talking about the fuel system? I have an fuel air mixture gauge hooked up to a narrow band ox sensor before and after. The gauge indicates lean with small throttle openenings, O2 feedback operation at highway throttle openings and rich under full throttle. Best Regards, Mark. -- Mark Mueller, '82 Volvo 245 - Very Green, B21F, Strut brace, electric radiator fan, A cam, Urethane Bushings, Bilstein Sport Shocks, IPD lower springs, Perf Exhaust, 740 10 sp wheels, 2-7/8' stainless exhaust tip adds 20 hp. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1337877&rss=1 Sun, 15 Mar 2009 17:29 GMT 81242DLB21FCA, Thanks for the idea of retarding the timing adjustment. That does reduce the knocking. But power is still lame. I'm going to try something based on Bruce's post and disconnect and plug the vacuum advance hose and set the timing to 12 btdc. Best Regards, Mark. -- Mark Mueller, '82 Volvo 245 - Very Green, B21F, Strut brace, electric radiator fan, A cam, Urethane Bushings, Bilstein Sport Shocks, IPD lower springs, Perf Exhaust, 740 10 sp wheels, 2-7/8' stainless exhaust tip adds 20 hp. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1337873&rss=1 Sun, 15 Mar 2009 16:59 GMT Bruce, Thank you. That is very helpful. I don't think there is a knock sensor, but maybe I'm wrong. If the knock sensor went bad that explains the heavy detonation and bad performance. Time to look some more at the manuals. Mark. -- Mark Mueller, '82 Volvo 245 - Very Green, B21F, Strut brace, electric radiator fan, A cam, Urethane Bushings, Bilstein Sport Shocks, IPD lower springs, Perf Exhaust, 740 10 sp wheels, 2-7/8' stainless exhaust tip adds 20 hp. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1337872&rss=1 Sun, 15 Mar 2009 16:55 GMT My 1982 240 with stock engine at the time and manual transmission went 100 mph if I waited long enough. I think it is faster in 4th than in overdrive. This test was in Nevada and probably at 3 or 4 thousand feet altitude. I've never tested top speed with the A cam. I don't live in Texas. 80 mph is cause for a major ticket around here (Northern California). Best Regards, Mark. -- Mark Mueller, '82 Volvo 245 - Very Green, B21F, Strut brace, electric radiator fan, A cam, Urethane Bushings, Bilstein Sport Shocks, IPD lower springs, Perf Exhaust, 740 10 sp wheels, 2-7/8' stainless exhaust tip adds 20 hp. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1337602&rss=1 Sat, 14 Mar 2009 02:00 GMT Shannon, Thanks for the link to the manuals. I am digesting this information now. I found my distributor and ignition control unit in the ignition manual. I am learning how to read the advance graph. Looks like I have the B21F-CI 1982. Is the "variation of ignition setting with vacuum advance" in addition to "variation in advance setting with engine rpm"? If so then 47 degrees of maximum advance is within expected amounts. If not then I'm getting way too much advance. I'm running the car on premium and that is reducing knock but to eliminating it. Best Regards, Mark. -- Mark Mueller, '82 Volvo 245 - Very Green, B21F, Strut brace, electric radiator fan, A cam, Urethane Bushings, Bilstein Sport Shocks, IPD lower springs, Perf Exhaust, 740 10 sp wheels, 2-7/8' stainless exhaust tip adds 20 hp. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1337600&rss=1 Sat, 14 Mar 2009 01:51 GMT Shannon, I looked on the distributor and at the base under "Volvo" the number is 306059. Is this the parts number? I have had the distributor out of the car a couple of years ago and I believe there are no mechanical advance weights and springs in the distributor, unless they are way smaller than what I have seen in other distributors. Best Regards, Mark. -- Mark Mueller, '82 Volvo 245 - Very Green, B21F, Strut brace, electric radiator fan, A cam, Urethane Bushings, Bilstein Sport Shocks, IPD lower springs, Perf Exhaust, 740 10 sp wheels, 2-7/8' stainless exhaust tip adds 20 hp. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1337575&rss=1 Fri, 13 Mar 2009 23:11 GMT I have a 1982 245, b21f with K-jet and Chrysler ignition system. About a year ago, I was fiddling with tuning to improve performance. At some point the car went from good performance to major lack of power and knocking at large throttle openings and higher RPMs. I have done my best to return to stock settings paying attention to: idle richness, 12 deg btdc at idle with vac advance disconnected and plugged, idle rpm setting, valve adjustment, compression test, new cap rotor wires, and a lot of general checking around. The engine exhibits its usual torquieness at low speed, low to mid RPM. Today I thought I would check the timing at higher rpms. With vac advance disconnected and plugged the advance range from idle to max advance is 12 to about 32 deg. With the vac advance connected and no load (racing the engine) the advance ranges from 12 ish to 50 +-2 deg. Anyone have experience or information regarding acceptable range of advance? Best Regards, Mark. -- Mark Mueller, '82 Volvo 245 - Very Green, B21F, Strut brace, electric radiator fan, A cam, Urethane Bushings, Bilstein Sport Shocks, IPD lower springs, Perf Exhaust, 740 10 sp wheels, 2-7/8' stainless exhaust tip adds 20 hp. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1337539&rss=1 Fri, 13 Mar 2009 20:52 GMT Maybe it could be the clutch. But the clutch grabs real good most of the time. This is an intermittent disconnect problem. I'm sure the motor mounts are fine. There is a stabilizer bar going across from each shock tower and the K jet manifold would have to pass the strut brace by a foot or so in order to create this feeling of connect and let go and connect again as it feels like. Best Regards, Mark. -- Mark Mueller, '82 Volvo 245 - Very Green, B21F, Strut brace, electric radiator fan, A cam, Urethane Bushings, Bilstein Sport Shocks, IPD lower springs, Perf Exhaust, 740 10 sp wheels, 2-7/8' stainless exhaust tip adds 20 hp. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1331906&rss=1 Sun, 15 Feb 2009 01:23 GMT " Too, I have noticed that 90% of the drivers out there behave as if the car is completely invisible. They change lanes on top of me, pull out in front of me on surface streets, and really just seem to not even see the car. Rush hour traffic seems to be worse in this respect." Try this color: http://www.brickboard.com/GALLERY/images/8306.jpg -- Mark Mueller, '82 Volvo 245 - Very Green, B21F, Strut brace, electric radiator fan, A cam, Urethane Bushings, Bilstein Sport Shocks, IPD lower springs, Perf Exhaust, 740 10 sp wheels, 2-7/8' stainless exhaust tip adds 20 hp. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1331844&rss=1 Sat, 14 Feb 2009 20:23 GMT I have a 1982 245 M46 260k miles. There are two driveline problems. One is after decellating to a stop. As I start rolling again there is a major clunk. It feels like something lets go and then connects again, like a worn spline that binds up in one direction and then when I start out holds a little and then slips till it stops in the other direction. I am concerned that there is something really wrong with the differential or the overdrive unit. I checked the U joints a few months ago and they are good. The mostly urethane bushings were new about 20k ago. the torque rods bushes were replaced with rubber at the same time. The other problem is when I go for breath taking maximum acceleration, often when I shift into second and floor it there is seemingly no connection between the engine and the rear wheels. I push the clutch in and out hoping that the clutch is stuck open. After a bit time I get solid connection. It doesn't feel like the clutch is slipping. I feels like no connection at all. Thanks in advance for any ideas of where to look. Best Regards, Mark. -- Mark Mueller, '82 Volvo 245 - Very Green, B21F, Strut brace, electric radiator fan, A cam, Urethane Bushings, Bilstein Sport Shocks, IPD lower springs, Perf Exhaust, 740 10 sp wheels, 2-7/8' stainless exhaust tip adds 20 hp. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1331831&rss=1 Sat, 14 Feb 2009 19:33 GMT I added pictures to the gallery. Not sure how to find them. I can email them to those who want them. Mark. -- Mark Mueller, '82 Volvo 245 - Very Green, B21F, Strut brace, electric radiator fan, A cam, Urethane Bushings, Bilstein Sport Shocks, IPD lower springs, Perf Exhaust, 740 10 sp wheels, 2-7/8' stainless exhaust tip adds 20 hp. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1321895&rss=1 Sun, 28 Dec 2008 22:46 GMT Heck, Thanks for the attention on this. At some point I want to go through the transmission and OD unit. I will probably buy used ones and redo them so my car is going while I work on them in my leisure. I guess I should pull these from a 260 along with the clutch cylinders and accoutrements. For now I guess I will get a Volvo cable somehow. Maybe next junk yard run. I wish these had a Zerk fitting in the middle so I could grease them up every so often without removing the cable. Best Regards, Mark. -- Mark Mueller, '82 Volvo 245 - Very Green, B21F, Strut brace, electric radiator fan, A cam, Urethane Bushings, Bilstein Sport Shocks, IPD lower springs, Perf Exhaust, 740 10 sp wheels, 2-7/8' stainless exhaust tip adds 20 hp. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1321888&rss=1 Sun, 28 Dec 2008 21:39 GMT Jorrell, Good point about the temperature. I'll look at the brass version again. For some reason, I liked the PVC version better, but can't remember why now. It could be the resistance of the brass version. I'll check and see if I can adjust the resistance of the brass valve. Best Regards, Mark. -- Mark Mueller, '82 Volvo 245 - Ugly but straight, works good, B21F, Strut brace, electric radiator fan, A cam, Urethane Bushings, Bilstein Sport Shocks, IPD lower springs, Perf Exhaust, 740 10 sp wheels, 2-7/8' stainless exhaust tip adds 20 hp. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1321759&rss=1 Sun, 28 Dec 2008 01:59 GMT Volvo from Heck, Thank you for the quick response. I didn't know that about diaphragm clutches. The clutch plate and diaphragm was replaced 50k ago. The reason I believe the pedal could be way lighter and more responsive with a hydraulic control is because I have successfully lubricated the cable and the pedal feels great! Easy to push and I can feel the engagement cues well. This lasts about a week and then it is back to the way stiff operation. Lubing the cable requires removal, about a half an hour job. Does anyone know the model and years that 260's had hydraulic clutches? Best Regards, Mark. -- Mark Mueller, '82 Volvo 245 - Ugly but straight, works good, B21F, Strut brace, electric radiator fan, A cam, Urethane Bushings, Bilstein Sport Shocks, IPD lower springs, Perf Exhaust, 740 10 sp wheels, 2-7/8' stainless exhaust tip adds 20 hp. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1321750&rss=1 Sun, 28 Dec 2008 01:31 GMT Has anyone out there converted 240 cable operated clutch to a hydraulic operated clutch? I am real tied of the way stiff pedal and have tried a bunch of things to get the cable to run easier. -- Mark Mueller, '82 Volvo 245 - Ugly but straight, works good, B21F, Strut brace, electric radiator fan, A cam, Urethane Bushings, Bilstein Sport Shocks, IPD lower springs, Perf Exhaust, 740 10 sp wheels, 2-7/8' stainless exhaust tip adds 20 hp. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1321737&rss=1 Sat, 27 Dec 2008 23:45 GMT The stock CIS idle air bypass valve stopped working. I did the tests in the manual to see what wasn't working. The electronics and wiring are fine. In fact I could feel the air valve motor vibrating, trying to work. I took it apart a couple of times seeing if I could free up it's action. No dice there. My 245 has a 3 wire version that I have not been able to find in the junk yard. So I decided that I could make a manual valve with an adjustment in the cabin. I bought a 3/4" PVC ball valve at the hardware store an placed in in the original location to test the idea. It worked fine. I'd open the hood in the morning to fast idle when the engine is cold. Once the engine was warmed up, it was easy to adjust the valve for a normal idle. Before using the ball valve, cycle it open and closed a bunch as fast you can operate the valve. This will melt the plastic around the seals a bit and loosen up the action. You will see melted plastic flash around the edges of the opening where the ball is. Drill a hole in one of the handles of the ball valve. The threaded eyelet will bolt into this hole. I bought 6 feet of hydraulic hose from the from the auto supply (didn't use it all) and ran hose to the space between the brake assist and left fender. Discard or store away the original idle hose. Install a couple of elbows and hose barbs on the ball valve and push the hoses on. Use PVC glue once you establish the orientation of the valve and push rod. Fasten the valve with a cable tie to the left strut tower. Hose clamps were needed at the manifold and throttle body hose connections. I drilled a hole in the firewall a little larger that the copper rod (I happened to have copper it could be steel or brass).The rod is bent 90 degrees at one end and has a drawer knob screw brazed to the other end. Install the rod so that the threaded end goes through the firewall into the cabin and through a slot you cut in the felt cover under the dash. It sticks out near the left door jam above the hood release. Screw the drawer knob of your choice into the end. Put a rubber grommet in the eyelet. Poke the bent end of the rod into the grommet of the eyelet and bolt the eyelet into the handle of the valve. When the engine is cold push the handle in all the way. Adjust as needed for the desired idle speed. -- Mark Mueller, '82 Volvo 245 - Ugly but straight, works good, B21F, Strut brace, electric radiator fan, A cam, Urethane Bushings, Bilstein Sport Shocks, IPD lower springs, Perf Exhaust, 740 10 sp wheels, 2-7/8' stainless exhaust tip adds 20 hp. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1321732&rss=1 Sat, 27 Dec 2008 23:26 GMT Art, Thanks for the help. That is expensive! That might double the value of my car! The pick and pull wins. Mark. -- Mark Mueller, '82 Volvo 245 - Ugly but straight, works good, B21F, Strut brace, electric radiator fan, A cam, Urethane Bushings, Bilstein Sport Shocks, IPD lower springs, Perf Exhaust, 740 10 sp wheels, 2-7/8' stainless exhaust tip adds 20 hp. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1303494&rss=1 Tue, 23 Sep 2008 01:42 GMT Hi all, I'm looking for a mail order source for the rear side windows and tailgate window rubber gaskets to install the windows. Can anyone recomend a good place? My car is a 1982 245. What is the model year span for the same gasket? Thanks in advance. Thank you, Mark. -- Mark Mueller, '82 Volvo 245 - Ugly but straight, works good, B21F, Strut brace, electric radiator fan, A cam, Urethane Bushings, Bilstein Sport Shocks, IPD lower springs, Perf Exhaust, 740 10 sp wheels, 2-7/8' stainless exhaust tip adds 20 hp. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1303169&rss=1 Sun, 21 Sep 2008 21:31 GMT Brilliant of me huh? The car is located in Eureka California USA. Eureka is about 275 miles north of San Francisco on the coast. -- Mark Mueller, '82 Volvo 245 - Ugly but straight, works good, B21F, Strut brace, electric radiator fan, A cam, Urethane Bushings, Bilstein Sport Shocks, IPD lower springs, Perf Exhaust, 740 10 sp wheels, 2-7/8' stainless exhaust tip adds 20 hp. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1276391&rss=1 Sat, 10 May 2008 04:00 GMT My shop neighbor has an 1800 coupe that is in a state of disassembly. I think most if not all the parts are there. I believe he would give it away to anyone who would take it. The body is down to the metal some suface rust. I think it is fairly straight maybe some bondo. If anyone is interested I can give you more of a report and put you in contact with the owner. I'll get a picture of it if you want. I can't take on another project but hate to see it wasting away. -- Mark Mueller, '82 Volvo 245 - Ugly but straight, works good, B21F, Strut brace, electric radiator fan, A cam, Urethane Bushings, Bilstein Sport Shocks, IPD lower springs, Perf Exhaust, 740 10 sp wheels, 2-7/8' stainless exhaust tip adds 20 hp. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1276366&rss=1 Sat, 10 May 2008 02:02 GMT Mr. Shannon, Thanks for the help. I will go out and messure them. Mark. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1269179&rss=1 Thu, 3 Apr 2008 03:35 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/