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<title>Volvo: anderssj&#x26;apos;s Brickboard Posts</title>
<link>http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=2740</link>
<description>The Volvo owner&#x27;s resource since 1997.</description>
<language>en</language>
<copyright>Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg</copyright>
<pubDate>Sat, 21 Nov 2009 05:33 GMT</pubDate>
<lastBuildDate>Sat, 21 Nov 2009 05:33 GMT</lastBuildDate>
<managingEditor>brickadmin@denizen.net</managingEditor>
<webMaster>brickadmin@denizen.net</webMaster>
<category>volvo</category>
<ttl>1440</ttl>

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<description>The Volvo owner&#x27;s resource since 1997.</description>
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<title>[V8] 1982 245 Restoration -posted by- anderssj</title>
<description>Hi,

I&#x27;ve done a couple of conversions:  Ford V8 (89 Mustang HO) into a 1983 Volvo 245GL (done in 1995), and a Volvo b230F/AW-70 into a 1983 Volvo 245 Diesel (around 1998).  I used one of Ross Converse&#x27;s first kits.  It included a couple of motor mount brackets, some wiring harness adapters, hoses, harware pieces, etc., etc.  One of the biggest things was the person on the other end of the phone to answer all of my questions . . . (back then there weren&#x27;t as many of these things running around, and I think it was before brickboard).  Everything on the car works, including most of the OBD-I stuff (the computer can&#x27;t &#x22;see&#x22; the transmission or the fuel pump relay--other than that it&#x27;s good).

The car has been great; wife drove it for 12 years--with no real conversion-related problems (only significant problem we had was the AOD went out when wife and mom-in-law were pulling a trailer in the mountains--not a good day, but that was long ago). 

I&#x27;ve got some pictures of the engine compartment after the swap--I can e-mail them to you if you&#x27;re interested.  They&#x27;re a little out of date though, as I&#x27;ve been updating the car recently (GT40 heads, Cobra intake manifold, cold air intake, etc.).

Funny, even after all of these years we still enjoy the car . . . .

Steve A-

BTW, where are you located?  We&#x27;re in Yorktown VA--if you&#x27;re in the area stop for a test drive and a beer ;^)</description>
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<pubDate>Mon, 27 Jul 2009 00:55 GMT</pubDate>
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<title>[V8] Feeler: 89 745 w/ Ford 5.0L/T5, well sorted runner/driver but body totaled -posted by- anderssj</title>
<description>Hi George,

Sorry to here about the car.  Where is it (city/state)?

Thanks!

Steve A-</description>
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<pubDate>Sun, 14 Jun 2009 13:53 GMT</pubDate>
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<title>[V8] converse kit for sale/trade -posted by- anderssj</title>
<description>good!  sounds like you&#x27;re well on your way . . . .

best regards,

steve a-</description>
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<pubDate>Fri,  3 Apr 2009 20:34 GMT</pubDate>
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<title>[V8] converse kit for sale/trade -posted by- anderssj</title>
<description>I think I have a 240 diesel air cleaner box (maybe 2), mounting brackets, a couple of new Mahle filters, and some of the intake connecting tubes (air cleaner to intake manifold, etc.)  I was going to use them to build a cold-air intake for my V8, but I am probably going to use the Ford box instead.  If you think you might need them, let me know and I&#x27;ll look for them. 

Good luck with your diesel conversion!

Steve A- </description>
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<pubDate>Thu,  2 Apr 2009 02:03 GMT</pubDate>
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<title>[V8] converse kit for sale/trade -posted by- anderssj</title>
<description>I wish I were closer . . . (I&#x27;m in VA)

I converted a d24-powered 245 to b230f some years back.  While most of the diesel-related parts--and the car itself--are long-gone, IIRC the actual fuel tanks (gas and diesel) were identical--it was the pumps and fuel level senders that were different.  The diesel wiring was also pretty straight forward--you could probably build a harness if you were unable to find one in suitable condition (the insulation on the one in our 83 was completed rotted away).

You may want to check out the &#x22;green books&#x22; (tech pubs) at the following:

http://www.k-jet.org/documents/greenbooks/200-series/

For example, the 1981 wiring diagrams include some of the diesel information you&#x27;ll need to do the conversion:

http://www.k-jet.org/files/greenbooks/TP30316-1_wiring_digrams_1981_all_models_part_1.pdf

and

http://www.k-jet.org/files/greenbooks/TP30316-1_wiring_digrams_1981_all_models_part_2.pdf

Also, D24 engine maintenance-related:

http://www.k-jet.org/files/greenbooks/TP30420-1_d20_d24_repairs_part_1.pdf

and 

http://www.k-jet.org/files/greenbooks/TP30420-1_d20_d24_repairs_part_2.pdf

D24 engine reconditioning-related:

http://www.k-jet.org/files/greenbooks/TP30224-2_d20_d24_reconditioning.pdf

IIRC, the diesel 240s had unique front springs to accomodate the heavier engine.  They also had the vented front brakes for the same reason.  Ours had the BW (55?) 3-speed auto transmission.  I&#x27;d look for a manual box instead.

Good luck with your diesel!

Steve A-




</description>
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<pubDate>Tue, 17 Mar 2009 16:10 GMT</pubDate>
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<title>[V8] Anyone using a 240 diesel (or Ford) airfilter box with a Ford 5.0? -posted by- anderssj</title>
<description>I&#x27;m in the process of building a cold-air intake for our V8 245.  I&#x27;m thinking of switching out the K&#x26;N cone filter that&#x27;s currently on the air mass meter/sensor in favor of a 240 diesel aircleaner box I salvaged off one of our old cars (&#x22;Sparky&#x22;, RIP).  Any BTDTs?  I&#x27;m particularly interested in what you&#x27;re using as a hose/tube from the diesel air box to the ford air mass meter.

Another option I&#x27;m considering is using a Ford air cleaner box (I have one of those on hand too).  In this case the AMM mounts to the top of the box, but now I would need to figure out the &#x22;plumbing&#x22; from the back of the AMM to the throttle body.

Thanks in advance!

Steve A- 

</description>
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<pubDate>Mon, 16 Mar 2009 15:24 GMT</pubDate>
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<title>[V8] 240 diesel (or Ford) airfilter question repost (sorry--NMI) -posted by- anderssj</title>
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<pubDate>Mon, 16 Mar 2009 15:19 GMT</pubDate>
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<title>[V8] Is anyone running Ford T-bird Wheel M-1007-E177? -posted by- anderssj</title>
<description>Hi Greg,

Thanks for the reply.  Last price I had for the FRPP wheels was $165 each, including the &#x22;SVT&#x22; center cap.

I hadn&#x27;t heard about the IPD PEG-replicas . . . I may have to look into those (I think moving up from my current RX7/740T front brakes to the S60R units might force me to use spacers anyways).

Thanks again!

Steve A-</description>
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<pubDate>Fri, 23 Jan 2009 17:07 GMT</pubDate>
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<title>[V8] Is anyone running Ford T-bird Wheel M-1007-E177? -posted by- anderssj</title>
<description>I&#x27;ve been thinking of moving up from my current 16&#x22; Volvo &#x22;Hydra&#x22; wheels to a 17&#x22; wheel.  I had been thinking of going to Volvo&#x27;s &#x22;Pegasus&#x22; wheels (17&#x22;x8&#x22;, offset 46mm, roughly 5.8&#x22; backspace), but new ones are pretty high and most used ones are usually pretty &#x22;curb-rashed.&#x22;  

I found a set of new Ford SVT T-bird wheels (FRPP #M-1007-E177) that should work but thought I would check with the folks here for any &#x22;BTDTs&#x22; before I did anything . . . .

The Ford wheel is 17&#x22;x7&#x22; on a 5x4.25&#x22; bolt circle (same as Volvo&#x27;s 5x108mm).  backspace is 5.57.&#x22;  I figure if I use a set of Keplhenke&#x27;s 32mm spacers I&#x27;ll be real close to the Hydra&#x27;s backspace of 4.25&#x22;

The next question will be to determine if the S60R front brake rotors and calipers will work with the Ford wheels . . . (I know they work with a couple of the Volvo wheels {Tethys, Pegasus}).

Thanks in advance!

Steve A-</description>
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<pubDate>Wed, 21 Jan 2009 15:15 GMT</pubDate>
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<title>[V8] FYI--V8 conversion candidate - 1996 960 wagon, blown engine -posted by- anderssj</title>
<description>I was at our local dealer picking up some parts over lunch--service manager said they just had 1996 960 wagon come in with a bad engine (idler failed, timing belt jumped, etc.).  The mech working on the car said that the crank turns only 90 degrees, with a &#x22;solid clunk&#x22; (mechanical interference) at each end.

Car looks pretty clean and straight (metallic sand biege, light leather interior).  I&#x27;ve heard that the 960 is a good candidate for a V8 motor (my only experience is with my old 245).

Not sure what the owner will be asking for it, but seems likely to work through the dealership.  

This is an &#x22;FYI&#x22; only--I have no interest in the car (my wife would shoot me if I started one more project)--all of the standard disclaimers apply.

Let me know and I can put you in touch with the service mgr . . . 

Best regards,

Steve A-

 </description>
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<pubDate>Fri, 16 Jan 2009 21:52 GMT</pubDate>
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<title>[V8] leaky power steering pressure hose (pump to rack) -posted by- anderssj</title>
<description>sorry, I goofed up the last post . . . .

I got out a big magnifying glass and found that my original converse hose had &#x22;parker&#x22; brand fittings.  Found our local Parker dealer (B&#x26;B Hose, Hampton VA), and 10 minutes (and $26) later I had a new 3000 psi line with the proper compression fittings (10mm for the volvo end, 3/8 inch for the ford end).  I put a newer style outlet fitting in the ford pump, which allowed me to use the newer ford line with the plastic seal (line from a 91 taurus worked well--cleaned up the routing somewhat too.  Got it all installed on WED after work, no leaks (touch wood).  

I plan to flush the entire PS system within a few weeks . . . .

Thanks for the help and advice!

Best,

Steve A-</description>
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<pubDate>Fri, 16 Jan 2009 21:38 GMT</pubDate>
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<title>[V8] leaky power steering pressure hose (pump to rack) -posted by- anderssj</title>
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<pubDate>Wed, 14 Jan 2009 02:30 GMT</pubDate>
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<title>[V8] leaky power steering pressure hose (pump to rack) -posted by- anderssj</title>
<description>Thanks--I&#x27;ll be taking the hose in to the hydraulic shop later this week.

Best,

Steve A-</description>
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<pubDate>Thu,  8 Jan 2009 20:42 GMT</pubDate>
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<title>[V8] leaky power steering pressure hose (pump to rack) -posted by- anderssj</title>
<description>Thanks--I think that will be the way I have to go . . . .

I stopped by a hydraulic shop earlier today and they said they could do the job, but would need the existing hose--and that it might take more than a day.  

Because the car is my daily driver, I was hoping to avoid any down time by finding out the PN on the original Converse set-up, and making up a new/replacement part for a &#x22;quick&#x22; remove and replace.

Oh well . . . 

Thanks for the input!

Steve A- 



</description>
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<pubDate>Tue,  6 Jan 2009 21:01 GMT</pubDate>
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<title>[V8] leaky power steering pressure hose (pump to rack) -posted by- anderssj</title>
<description>Hi All,

The pressure-side power steering hose in my 5.0 Volvo has developed a leak.  This is the original hose provided as part of the Ross Converse kit back in fall of 1995; it has twist-type &#x22;couplers&#x22; that allowed the use of the Volvo banjo bolt on the steering rack end and the Ford pump fitting on the other end.

Anybody have the part number for this hose?  Did the newer kits also use this hose or did Ross provide a different part over time?  Would it be possible to use a new Ford/Mustang hose and add the Volvo banjo fitting?

Thanks in advance for your help--and happy New Year!

Best, 

Steve A- </description>
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<pubDate>Tue,  6 Jan 2009 16:15 GMT</pubDate>
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<title>[RWD] [200] I gotta quit going by junkyards or I am going to die! -posted by- anderssj</title>
<description>Hi Paul, 

We all have dreams--and I just experienced a similar &#x22;what am I doing/she&#x27;s gonna kill me/where can I stash this stuff&#x22; millisecond of regret last weekend at the local pick &#x27;n pull.

What are you looking for seat-wise?  I have a reasonable seat bottom cover (no tears, etc.) in blue vinyl if that helps--it was a pax side seat, but the bottom cover works with either seat IIRC. I have the matching back rest cover (also pax side). I may have a few other seat parts too (some blue velour stuff a la turbo), maybe a seat cushion (I&#x27;ll have to look) . . . .

Price = free + cost of shipping--email me for additional info.

Best, 

Steve A-</description>
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<pubDate>Tue, 25 Nov 2008 19:51 GMT</pubDate>
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<title>[RWD] [200] [1983] Alternator upgrade replacement -posted by- anderssj</title>
<description>OK, I checked the part numbers last night . . . 

I used an 80A alternator from an 87 and newer 240 with the b230f engine.  Volvo PN is 5003804.  I think that same alternator is also used on 87-91 740s and 92-93 940s, so there should be plenty of them around as cores.

Both Pep Boys and Advance Auto had rebuilt units in stock, some with life-time warranty.

Hope this helps!

Steve A-</description>
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<pubDate>Mon, 24 Nov 2008 15:02 GMT</pubDate>
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<title>[RWD] [200] [1983] Alternator upgrade replacement -posted by- anderssj</title>
<description>Hi!

I did this swap on our 83 244Ti last summer.  I got a core 80A alternator from a wreck (87 or 88 maybe?), then traded it on a Bosch rebuilt.  I also grabbed the later mounting hardware while I was at it, as it makes adjusting the belt tension a lot easier . . . . 

I&#x27;ll see if I can find a PN and post it later.

More to follow . . . .

Steve A-</description>
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<pubDate>Mon, 24 Nov 2008 01:38 GMT</pubDate>
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<title>[RWD] [200] [1991] &#x27;91 244 Looking to replace wheels -posted by- anderssj</title>
<description>It depends on how new you want to go . . . .

Our 91 244 runs the 15-inch 5-spoke Draco wheels from a mid- to late 1980s 740 turbo, while our 83 245 V8 and 83 244Ti both run the 16-inch 5-spoke Hydras from the later 740s (and maybe 940s?).  

These are roughly the same offset as the original 240 wheels, so no spacers or longer bolts/lugs are required.

FWIW, I run 205/60 R 15s on the 91, and 205/55 R 16s on the others; no problems.

Sorry, I don&#x27;t know how to post pictures on this site . . . .

Best,

Steve A-</description>
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<pubDate>Tue, 23 Sep 2008 00:41 GMT</pubDate>
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<title>[RWD] [200] [1984] 84 245 turbo runs hot when pushed or with A/C running after (timing belt????) -posted by- anderssj</title>
<description>Hi Hack,

Just a quick update--put the smaller pulley (from a 740 T) on our car last weekend--seemed to help, although the weather has been slightly cooler so it&#x27;s tough to say for sure.  It does make the fan a little noisier though . . . .

Also, I found that the pulley interferred with one of the triangular support &#x22;ribs&#x22; on the coolant pump (the large one on the passenger side).  I &#x22;clearanced&#x22; it slightly with a file so it&#x27;s now good, but it&#x27;s something to check before you  put everything back together.

Using the smaller pulley, you may or may not need a different size belt set.  When I did the pulley, I also installed an 80-amp alternator from a late-model 240.  The new alternator apparently mounts a little further from the block, so was able to get by with the original belts (9.5 x 927mm IIRC).  I may go to a 918mm set at the next change just to gain a little more adjustability.

Hope this helps.

Best,

Steve A- </description>
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<pubDate>Wed, 27 Aug 2008 15:43 GMT</pubDate>
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<title>[RWD] [200] [1984] 84 245 turbo runs hot when pushed or with A/C running after (timing belt????) -posted by- anderssj</title>
<description>Hi!

I&#x27;m seeing much the same with our 83 244Ti--seems to run nice and cool except on hot days going up long hills in traffic, or when stopped in traffic w/ ac &#x22;on.&#x22;  I&#x27;ve tried most of the same things you have, including the new HD/tropical fan clutch from Dave Barton.  We also did a new radiator (Nissens alum+plastic) and an 87*C Volvo OEM thermostat--still no change . . . .  all that said, we have noticed that putting the car in park and holding the engine at around 1800 to 2000 rpm brings the temp back down to normal.

I talked this situation over with my local techs and they said that this is pretty common and that I have a couple of options--add the supplemental radiator fan that was on the 84.5+ 240Ti (it comes on when the ac is on), or use the smaller coolant pump pulley/fan hub from a 740 turbo (according to the tech&#x27;s this draws more air through the radiator from idle up to about 30-35 mph--not sure what this will do for me on the hills).

While I&#x27;ve been unable to find an electric fan at the local pick/pulls, I was able to find the smaller pulley/hub.  It&#x27;s a two-belt hub just like on the 200s, but is only 4 5/8 inches in diameter instead of the normal 5 1/4.  I tried to install it last weekend but the stock belts (9.5x925mm) were too long.  I&#x27;m hoping to put it back on the car tomorrow with a set of (9.5x900mm) belts.  I will let you know how it goes--and results.  

Hope this helps.

Best,

Steve A-



</description>
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<pubDate>Thu, 21 Aug 2008 20:22 GMT</pubDate>
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<title>[RWD] [200] Car dead, battery light on when no key in car - Alternator? -posted by- anderssj</title>
<description>Bill,

Thanks--will do. </description>
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<pubDate>Thu, 21 Aug 2008 13:39 GMT</pubDate>
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<title>[RWD] [200] Car dead, battery light on when no key in car - Alternator? -posted by- anderssj</title>
<description>Bob,

Thanks for the quick response.  

I&#x27;m familiar with the problem with the wiring insulation on the cars from the early 80s.  We installed a &#x22;new&#x22; engine harness from Dave Barton on this car a couple of years ago, but can&#x27;t remember if it included the segment you described.  

I had planned to update the battery cables on this car to allow for the newer style battery, so I&#x27;ll check the wiring tomorrow when I get a chance.

Good tip on removing the battery ground cable at night--I think I have an old IPD quick disconnect hiding on my workbench somewhere.  My son might complain about resetting his radio stations, but it will beat having to get a &#x22;jump&#x22; every time he needs to go somewhere.

Thanks again, and best regards.

Steve A-    </description>
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<pubDate>Thu, 21 Aug 2008 12:48 GMT</pubDate>
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<title>[RWD] [200] Car dead, battery light on when no key in car - Alternator? -posted by- anderssj</title>
<description>Hi All,

Son&#x27;s car (83 244 Ti) was pretty much dead when he came out of work tonight--noticed battery light was on when he got in, then not enough current to turn the starter over.  I swapped in a battery from one of our other 240s and was able to drive it home, but when I shut it off I got the same thing--battery light on when there&#x27;s no key in the car.  For what it&#x27;s worth, when I turn the key to the first position, the other warning lights (oil pressure, etc.) come on, but the battery light goes out.

I installed a new voltage regulator a couple of months ago; I also put in a new ground for the alternator at the same time, and cleaned up all of the cable contact surfaces, etc.  As near as I could tell this is the original alternator on a 25 year-old car, so maybe the alternator finally went.

Assuming the alternator needs to be replaced, is there anything special I should look for?  Would a higher amp/output version from a newer 240 fit? 

Any ideas/BTDTs would be appreciated!

Thanks in advance, and best regards,

Steve A-</description>
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<pubDate>Thu, 21 Aug 2008 03:51 GMT</pubDate>
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<title>[AWD] [S80] Possibly In the Market -posted by- anderssj</title>
<description>Calvin,

Thanks--it&#x27;s especially true of FWD cars with engines mounted &#x22;sideways,&#x22; as my old SAAB and Audi were much better than the S80.  I just wanted to remind Chris so it wouldn&#x27;t be quite the surprise for him that it was (is?) for me . . . .

Thanks again,

Steve A-</description>
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<pubDate>Thu, 14 Aug 2008 20:55 GMT</pubDate>
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