http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=27 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 04:31 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 04:31 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. I wish I could tell you how to do it without breaking it. Every one I've ever seen is already broken. It may very well be built that way to provide tamper evidence. -- Art Benstein near Baltimore Since bread is square, why is sandwich meat round? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387542&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:00 GMT Hi Nelson, On our 89, 90, and 91 sedans the trunk works along with the doors, just as it does when you use the keyswitch or button. It doesn't "pop" the trunk or anything like that, and the valet feature which, frankly I don't have a use for and would have to read up on, would work no differently after installing the keyless. The wagon hatch works just like another door. However, on our older (pre-86) 240's, the electric trunk latch is optional and not tied to the door locks. One 83 has a button in the glove box, and I have removed the motor from a junk yard car to do the same in another car if I ever get around to it. The three-button key fobs have that function available, but I haven't used it. I wired one "third button" to the interior lights, but that proved to be a waste of time. Although this keeps Matt's good thread at the top of the index, we really should take the keyless entry subject to a new thread, and post year/model information. -- Art Benstein near Baltimore If money doesn't grow on trees, then why do banks have branches? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387541&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:55 GMT If both key and knob stopped working, the fault is more likely to be in the wiring, because those are separate switches. One place the wiring dies is in the door jamb, right where you had to fish the new wires for the driver's door actuator. The copper can be broken inside the insulation from being flexed for years. If both lock and unlock functions got lost, it is probably the black (ground) wire. I've installed a half-dozen JC Whitney keyless products in 240s. The cheapest of the cheap - most of them were $30 IC Dynamics. <img src=http://cleanflametrap.com/keyless48.jpg> -- Art Benstein near Baltimore How is it that we put man on the moon before we figured out it would be a good idea to put wheels on luggage? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387521&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 16:08 GMT Hey Paul, If I do any more opening of clocks or other gauges, I do it the way Matt did it. Bob Wennerstrom remarked on this once with convincing advice reminding us the wrinkled metal from uncrimping the face is well concealed by the plastic bezel. Unfortunately, the photos seem to live forever. Matt's write-up is excellent! -- Art Benstein near Baltimore What did 'cured' ham actually have? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387520&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 15:59 GMT Hi Gary, I posted more details a few years ago. I'll see if can dig them out of the archives, but the conclusion is the ICU was confused on cranking, when the output is necessarily low and expected to be low, and timing is TDC. Using a timing light, I caught it. The shimming was not a fix, but a determination of the amount distance affected the voltage, and by doing that an indirect measure of the tone wheel's runout. The starter would take the brunt of the backward force. The overrunning clutch (starter drive) is the weak link, and that corresponds with the OP's symptom of engage and spin. The drive, of course, would have to engage the ring gear for the solenoid's starter contacts to make. -- Art Benstein near Baltimore If a cow laughed, would milk come out her nose? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387402&rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 22:06 GMT When it hiccups, it sounds like the cylinder fires on the upstroke, well advanced of TDC, which stops it dead, right? I chased this problem until it blew apart the starter. The behavior began after I had replaced the CPS pre-emptively. Not believing a CPS could be that critical, I made some measurements with a scope, shimmed the device to see where its limits were, and eventually replaced it with another new one. That second replacement marked the end of the starter lockups. Since then, a nearby auto shop had a similar puzzler, and after we discussed this, the tech solved his customer's starting problem. In all cases, once started, the CPS gave no trouble. <img src=http://cleanflametrap.com/starter04.jpg> -- Art Benstein near Baltimore Most would rather be ruined by praise than saved by criticism. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387340&rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 16:55 GMT <i>Is it possible that I have two functional, but faulty AMMs?</i> It has been known to happen. OK Nick, looks like you're getting somewhere. This is close to the challenge I went through 10 years ago, but with the advantage of having a few more -002 units available in the yards and auctions. I began trying to characterize them according to that at-rest voltage, which is about all one can do without setting up a fully variable flow bench test. I found AMMs in the 1.5V and lower unable to bring stoichiometric and the lowest of them incapable of getting the car started without spoofing the ECT (adding resistance). The best of them seemed to be 1.55-1.65V like your newer one. I never found one that was "too rich" like yours seems to be, but all the while I realize my at-rest test is only marginally better than those useless resistance checks in the manual. Also, I found those I had would degrade over time. Not smoothly, either, it seemed, more in spurts. The degradation would consistently be toward lean (lower voltage). The internet consensus seems to blame oxidation contamination at the substrate, accelerated by heat (faulty airbox tstats). But I never fully discounted the possibility it was getting zapped by a leaky coil to distributor wire laying over the harness. This sort of degradation occurs in spurts, just like ESD damage to microelectronics. <i>Can you describe what you mean by "flirting with system lock"?</i> Still trying to come up with a better analogy than to a home thermostat struggling with a window open and the wind blowing in. If you know any EE nerds over at that tech school, you might get one interested in helping you trim out one of your AMMs, like I did, to raise the offset determined by the laser-tweaked resistor array. The -002 is the only one of the Volvo AMMs amenable to this (with my skill set anyway), because of the op-amp's pin (7) being brought off-hybrid. Who knows, you might tempt someone into setting up a flow bench and making a term paper out of it. Then you'll want to extend that lambda test lead (from inside the car of course) so you can watch the light while you drive. Endless possibilities for the interested. <a href=http://cleanflametrap.com/002amm01.jpg>large jpg</a> <a href=http://cleanflametrap.com/002amm04.jpg>large jpg</a> <img src=http://cleanflametrap.com/002amm03M.jpg> -- Art Benstein near Baltimore The taste of low quality lingers long after the satisfaction of low price. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387327&rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 14:16 GMT Well, when it was zero, your test light should have been on. That .4-.85 is biased to the rich side. It takes some experience to know when a system is in closed loop as compared with flirting with the edge of lock, like I suspect yours is. Oscillating at what rate, what repeatability? The only part of this that deserves a scope trace is the oxygen sensor output. The behavior off idle suggests the system is way rich off idle and definitely out of lock. Of course, if you're just blipping the throttle, it won't lock until you reach a stable load. AMM output is the white/red, pin 7 on the -002. Search the archives to see what is thought of the Programa AMM rebuilds. Generally the advice is to get one from a wreck. Measuring at rest means ignition on, motor not running. Now that you say it is a rebuild and not a Bosch rebuild, I am no longer ruling out the AMM. Problem is, it is probably pretty cold up there, and my notes were all done in clement weather, so your comparison will tell you more than the absolute value. I take that back. Your weather is as good as ours is. -- Art Benstein near Baltimore Do you realize that in about 40 years, we'll have thousands of old ladies running around with tattoos? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387224&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 23:02 GMT Hi Kevin, Have someone check it for rust. Chassis/suspension parts, body behind the mud flaps, around the windshield, rocker panels, and floorboards. Lift the carpets between the sill covers and the seats. My advice is have that done by a professional, because love will surely blind you to these flaws, and Northern Indiana makes any 1990 car a risk. For $1400 you don't want a rust bucket, and that is the only thing that will put a 240 down. Hope you find a keeper! -- Art Benstein near Baltimore Those who race through life finish first. (Darrel Hunsbedt) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387216&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 22:14 GMT Actually I've been pretty fortunate with my cars, having obtained them from owners who generally have had them serviced at the dealer's shop for longer than most do. I speak cautiously, because I am not very far into the one 244ti acquired from an "enthusiast", who loved the IPD catalog, it seems. I have removed enough pretty colored zip ties to fill a coffee mug, but no blue boogers yet. -- Art Benstein near Baltimore My father said there are two kinds of people in the world: givers and takers. The takers may eat better, but the givers sleep better. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387213&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 21:53 GMT Hi Nick, I agree the WOT anomaly is probably unrelated. I suspect it is a measuring error as well, as it sounds like the sort of response one gets from an auto-ranging DMM before they get familiar with it. The object of connecting or substituting a resistor for the ECT was not to test the ECT (I know you had just replaced it), but to fake out the ECU into thinking the car was warmer than the ECT reports. This would ensure it was correcting at max lean. The object was to shift the correction point toward lean. Actually, if you had only happened to watch the effect of that accidental short to the head, you would have done just that. Max lean, via the ECT. Can't possibly hurt it. And as we discussed before, you can admit more air at the FPR vacuum port if you promise to squeeze the hose first and not let the diaphragm retract. If you can't get the O2 sensor below .35V, either there is a problem with measurement technique, or the ECU is unable to match the range to the AMM. A scope is the correct tool here, if we were professionals. I don't figure you changed anything, and like you, I can't imagine how the coil replacement would have affected the mixture except in one wild imagination I had, just for a moment, regarding the HV leakage from the coil wire draped over the AMM cabling, causing the AMM electronics to degrade. Remember, I was trying to sort out why all the AMMs were all over the place. By the way, did you really buy a new AMM? If so, you have a bunch invested in this car. What's the voltage on the output pin at rest? I'd be happy to give you an FPR or lend you an ECU to swap. -- Art Benstein near Baltimore "I was worried that my mechanic might try to rip me off, I was relieved when he told me all I needed was turn-signal fluid." http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387206&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 21:29 GMT Am I seeing things, or are these SRS components removed with a wire cutter? -- Art Benstein near Baltimore A lot of money is tainted. 'Taint yours and 'taint mine. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387119&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 14:54 GMT <i>I was under the impression that LED off was lean, LED on was rich...</i> Sounds like you have the same binary difficulty I have. Sometimes I feel like I need to mark my shoes "left" and "right". I double-checked the scope trace and schematic I posted to your thread, to be sure I hadn't gotten my shoes on backward again. Yes, the blinking LED is what you're shooting for. The idea is you have a portion of the adjustment above and below where it is solidly off and solidly on, respectively. That .35V was a clue to me. But a digital voltmeter on the sensor is tricky as it is on any voltage that changes inconsistently with time. You should be seeing something less. Try this mnemonic: Less, lean, low, light. It helps to know your methods. Thanks for elaborating. The 100 ohms you saw, where was that exactly? I don't bother with those gray plastic retainers. I'm guessing you saw that in Bentley or somewhere. They're trying to keep someone from clumsily forcing a meter probe into the delicate business end of the connector pin. It is just as easy to (gently) probe the back of the pin where the wire is. Experiment with the one on your old harness. Speaking of Bentley, have you marked yours up with the <a href="http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1330795/220/240/260/280/bentley_errata_update.html">errata</a>? There are several referring to LH2.0 I believe. -- Art Benstein near Baltimore When an actress saw her first strands of gray hair she thought she'd dye. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387095&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 11:54 GMT I've got white-out on a couple of my old ones - original pulleys - but there's 20 years in that rubber. It is a bit unsettling to find one dying at such a young age. But like you say, we're being scammed on the rubber. <img src=http://cleanflametrap.com/damper.jpg> -- Art Benstein near Baltimore A Stranger is just a friend you haven't met yet. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387063&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 03:40 GMT To me your test supported your original idea it is running rich; that the only way you can get it to see "lean" is the closed-throttle coast to idle. Can you see what the O2 sensor is reporting then? Should be well under .35V. Closer to 0.1V. When I first began playing with these, I hadn't yet procured a spare ECU at the junkyard, so I spoofed the ECT terminal with a variable resistor. That resistance you see cold looks in range, but you could check it when warm, and maybe try substituting something even lower, just to see if you can get the ECU to center in on the AMM range without more parts swapping. The WOT value of 100 ohms is, I hope, what you were seeing from the WOT (wide open throttle) terminal, not the closed throttle ECU pin 3, right? Or maybe it was, since you are measuring into the ICU if you check resistance there; better to backprobe for the voltage change. That will probably be a side trip though, not related to mixture any way I am aware of. Check WOT at ECU pin 12. The switch at WOT is a sliding contact where the closed throttle switch is snap action. I've heard the 503 ECU fails rich, but my imagination was very rich, like injectors stuck full on. Yours just doesn't find center, similar to the old "choke pull-off" problem, except your choke is that ECT. -- Art Benstein near Baltimore The short fortune-teller who escaped from prison was a small medium at large. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387060&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 03:28 GMT I have one of those on a car I don't see too often. MTC was on the bag. I'd better draw a line on it next chance I get. Low pitched growl... I would have expected a high pitched squeal like a belt slipping. Good call, Dan. -- Art Benstein near Baltimore A plateau is a high form of flattery. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387054&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 03:05 GMT Yes, that is the answer I was hoping for. I guess, now, thinking about it, the pic wasn't really that absurd if you're used to U-clamps, but I've all but forgotten about those. <img src=http://cleanflametrap.com/muffler06.jpg> -- Art Benstein near Baltimore He had a photographic memory that was never developed. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386958&rss=1 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 18:18 GMT Hi Barry, It has been so long since I've used a genuine Volvo donut, I'm used to the aftermarket rubber in the Starla kits. They are not easy to stretch. A bottle jack can hold the muffler up against the floor while you install, but I found a couple big zip ties made a good come-along. (Side track. See if you can tell me what's wrong with this picture.) <img src=http://cleanflametrap.com/muffler03.jpg> -- Art Benstein near Baltimore Acupuncture is a jab well done. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386935&rss=1 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 16:47 GMT Will, it is just the same car we saw here last week on the CL link, but photos sell, and that looks to be the purpose of the TB post. (unrelated but humorous) <a href=http://turbobuicks.com/forums/index.php>http://turbobuicks.com/forums/index.php</a> Doesn't it look just a little bit like a 740T? -- Art Benstein near Baltimore Santa's helpers are subordinate clauses. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386907&rss=1 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 14:56 GMT Barry, I think the heater pipe is a very likely source of the leak. If you had to replace yours, it was probably because it rusted from the outside. The heat under the manifold is tough on this pipe, and it will start leaking from rust pinholes. When coolant under pressure leaks from a pinhole, a serious amount of detective work may be needed to find it sometimes across the engine compartment from the wet spot. A pressure tester can help. We're all just trying to identify leaks we've seen before that the OP might be having, but in the end, it is up to him or his tech to track it down. I've seen just about every leak mentioned in this thread except one from the drain petcock. -- Art Benstein near Baltimore Bakers trade bread recipes on a knead to know basis. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386901&rss=1 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 14:43 GMT Your discovery certainly surprises me. Are you sure? I mean, that photo is kind of an ant's eye view. But, the latest cars I've worked on under the carpet are 1991 models. In any event, the seat belt retractor is another avenue for your cleanout chore. I don't think Volvo did away with that. <img src=http://cleanflametrap.com/rocker01.jpg> <img src=http://cleanflametrap.com/rocker02.jpg> <img src=http://cleanflametrap.com/rocker03.jpg> -- Art Benstein near Baltimore http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386881&rss=1 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 11:31 GMT I've also had no complaints with Meyle products. Last motor mounts I bought from Tasca, genuine Volvo, for $8.19 each. http://tascavolvoparts.com PS, I tend to discourage newbies from raising the motor using a jack from below, preferring to raise it from above. I've read too many accounts of damage to oil pan, oil pan gaskets, and on a 740, even the distributor. -- Art Benstein near Baltimore The short fortune-teller who escaped from prison was a small medium at large. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386825&rss=1 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 01:58 GMT Without tools, and far from home, you need to visit a shop and explain your recent timing belt change. Only you can decide how urgent that is. On the other hand, you can purchase basic tools for a fraction of what that shop call will cost, and, if you can spare the time to get dirty, check the belt for signs of rubbing, and the tensioner for straight installation and a smooth bearing. To check the bearing, just use the belt itself to load the tensioner spring and lock it in place with the belt loose, so you can spin it. I can't imagine what the crank pulley could have to do with a noise like that, even if somehow it failed to find the key or get torqued properly. -- Art Benstein near Baltimore A boiled egg in the morning is hard to beat. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386820&rss=1 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 01:43 GMT Hello Spencer, Right in that area, the transmission cooler lines are clamped and supported by a bracket to the bell housing - actually just above the downpipe bracket. Vibration and corrosion makes this the first place they crack. It won't drip that much when the car is shut off, but under pressure... It's an easy fix with a pair of 5/16" compression unions, but the way you describe your car you might go for new lines if you find this to be the source of your leak. -- Art Benstein near Baltimore http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386751&rss=1 Mon, 16 Nov 2009 22:27 GMT <i>Is that hook spanner available through McMaster-Carr? </i> Well, unfortunately, not that one. Mine is #3 in a set of four from Harbor Freight, but the set was discontinued years ago. Around that time (years ago that is) some folks researched other suppliers, and someone even gave the pricey one McMaster sells a try, I think, but I've never seen the 4 for $9.98 made-in-China deal that made mine a shoe-in for ownership. I've also used the copper grease on the tube threads. I think I'm kind of a blow-hard saying the pin spanner is not the right tool, because I haven't used one. (Don't knock it unless you've tried it.) It just seemed to me the one I saw being used was a clunky universal tool, that did not look strong or look like it fit well. The Volvo special is a pin spanner of sorts (not actually round pins though) and looks like it would fit through the spring coils easily, and mate with the gland nuts in a secure fashion. And, without the rust, I know a pipe wrench would get it turning before crushing it. PS - ebay 360206157025 looks just like my set. -- Art Benstein near Baltimore Those who jump off a Paris bridge are in Seine. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386739&rss=1 Mon, 16 Nov 2009 21:56 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/