http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=2687 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 05:16 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 05:16 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. I had a really cheap one like the one Patrick of Mtl linked to. I bought it 10 years ago off of eBay for $8 new. It did the job. Two years ago, I upgraded to this one for $60 ($75 w/ S&H): http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Universal-Wheel-Hub-Puller-Rear-Brake-Drum-Remover-1259_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5d26f27509QQitemZ400085382409QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools It's a copy of a really good puller, it's very heavy duty. I know somebody who has an original one, besides the copy being a little rougher, it's just as good. 100X better than the first one I had. Definitely keep the castle nut on (loosen it of course) until it pops free. Loosen the brake shoes too (probably not going to interfere if you hadn't adjusted the brakes for awhile). Paul http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387500&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 14:26 GMT Best way to get somebody's attention is to take their money away. Paul http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387263&rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 03:02 GMT Tim- You were interested in the '67.5 parts off that 122. Sorry about not getting back to you about it, but my father passed away since you emailed me, and I'm just getting back into my projects. I'll send you an email about them. Paul http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386312&rss=1 Sat, 14 Nov 2009 23:39 GMT Frank Derks: http://www.v1800reg.org/pages/B23E%20Power.pdf Bob Foltz: http://www.v1800reg.org/pages/INSTALLING%20A%20B21.pdf Ryan over on TB has installed a B230FT setup in his 1800 (his webpage is no longer available on how he did it - I have a copy of it, but you should try and get ahold of him->I'm sure he can share his knowledge): http://forums.turbobricks.com/member.php?u=11862 Here's a picture of Ryan's 1800 engine swap: http://i60.photobucket.com/albums/h14/smosit/IMG_3417-1.jpg Here's a picture of my 122 with a B21 in it (been running since 2001): <a href="http://s144.photobucket.com/albums/r168/malloy1/?action=view&current=B21_122.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r168/malloy1/B21_122.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> Here's a picture of my P210 with a B230 (my current ongoing project): <a href="http://s144.photobucket.com/albums/r168/malloy1/?action=view&current=DryFitB230P210.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r168/malloy1/DryFitB230P210.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> Paul Just a really neat old Volvo (PV830): <a href="http://s144.photobucket.com/albums/r168/malloy1/?action=view&current=PV830.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r168/malloy1/PV830.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386170&rss=1 Sat, 14 Nov 2009 03:59 GMT I have the same problem with my wipers. I tightened up everything on the wiper setup (motor mount bolts were loose), when running it hits the rubber gasket, but stops exactly where it should be above the gasket. Pretty much just accepted that's the way it was. I'll check out the wiper arms themselves. Paul http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385503&rss=1 Wed, 11 Nov 2009 12:55 GMT The M410 cover is there, but the guy I got it from never gave me the shifter. I have a '75 M41 that I'm planning on using in my P210, and I'm going with the pudding stirrer top cover, so I have a complete '75 remote shifter cover I could use on the M410. Paul http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385278&rss=1 Tue, 10 Nov 2009 02:52 GMT I don't think there is any reason not to use the 4th gear lockout. This cover is from a '75 M41 and has the 4th gear lockout. Paul http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385277&rss=1 Tue, 10 Nov 2009 02:47 GMT Cool! Thanks- Paul http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385019&rss=1 Mon, 9 Nov 2009 00:10 GMT Thanks- I thought so, but didn't know if there was something odd between the two. Paul http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385001&rss=1 Sun, 8 Nov 2009 23:10 GMT I picked up a B20 M410 and the guy didn't include the shifter. I do have a '75 M41 top cover and shifter (with the rubber dampener section). They look the same, just wondering if they are interchangeable or not? Paul http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384928&rss=1 Sun, 8 Nov 2009 17:21 GMT I have a B18, it's out of the car and it has a bad cam lobe. The engine actually ran fine before it was pulled, but wouldn't want to install back in a car without changing the cam/lifters. Just wondering if it's possible to replace the cam/lifter without taking the head off? Paul http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384926&rss=1 Sun, 8 Nov 2009 17:10 GMT Looks like a job for the ODGuru (Duane). He's in Kansas City and I think he use to work for Laycock. You can post him through his user info here: http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/user_data.htm?uid=5164 Paul http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384921&rss=1 Sun, 8 Nov 2009 16:53 GMT How's the project coming along? Still planning on a white block for it? Paul http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384682&rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 15:22 GMT I had a local radiator shop do it for me. They brazed in a female fitting and a tube that ran to the bottom of the gas tank. If you add a male barbed fitting, the fitting will hit the trunk, and you can't get the gas tank back in unless you chop out a little piece of the trunk to get the fitting pass it. Paul http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379510&rss=1 Thu, 15 Oct 2009 01:55 GMT I used the original hard fuel line as the return line (low pressure). I used the hard plastic line from a 240; cut it to length and pushed it back on the barbed fitting with a tool I made, for the high pressure feed line. Been running that setup for 7 years now. Never had a problem. Planning on doing something similar to my P210. If you have any questions about it, I would be happy to share it. Paul http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378872&rss=1 Mon, 12 Oct 2009 03:54 GMT I assume something like this (it was being sold on eBay for awhile-I think in the $600-$700 range): <a href="http://s144.photobucket.com/albums/r168/malloy1/?action=view&#194;&#164;t=SUEFI.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r168/malloy1/SUEFI.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> I would look at this thread: http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1313894/120-130/efi_conversion_121b18a.html I agree with some statements there that the SU intake isn't the best to use for fuel injection. I would say to use a B20E/F with the fuel injection head, and get a custom intake manifold made up since the B20 fuel injection intake doesn't fit. Something like this (It's a B234. It's just an example): <a href="http://s144.photobucket.com/albums/r168/malloy1/?action=view&#194;&#164;t=B234customintake.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r168/malloy1/B234customintake.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> I run Megasquirt in my '65 122 with a B21F engine. It cost at least $1500. Carb car to EFI car. Nothing there to start with except the fuel tank (which needed to be modified). Here's a list of what I did. It all adds up- -needed MS unit -needed to be modified the gas tank -needed a fuel pump setup (I used a 240 setup) -needed to add a surge tank -needed to add fuel lines (I used the hard plastic lines from a 240) -intake manifold needed to be modified -needed fuel rail/injectors -needed TPS -needed a wiring harness/fuse box for fuel/spark -needed a distributor/139mod -needed a idle motor -needed a LC-1 O2 -needed a exhaust manifold (the B21 was a canadian that didn't have a bung for the O2 sensor) -needed to fabricate a throttle linkage (a mix between B21FT/B230/new) A couple of pictures of my 122 upgrades: <a href="http://s144.photobucket.com/albums/r168/malloy1/?action=view&#194;&#164;t=B21ms.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r168/malloy1/B21ms.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> <a href="http://s144.photobucket.com/albums/r168/malloy1/?action=view&#194;&#164;t=SurgeTank.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r168/malloy1/SurgeTank.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> <a href="http://s144.photobucket.com/albums/r168/malloy1/?action=view&#194;&#164;t=PumpSetup.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r168/malloy1/PumpSetup.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> Paul http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378775&rss=1 Sun, 11 Oct 2009 18:36 GMT I'll shoot you some emails when I get it. Can't get it this weekend, plan is to get it on the Oct 16 or 17. My email is malloy1atprodigy.net I'm sure you know what to do with the "at". Paul http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377543&rss=1 Tue, 6 Oct 2009 12:16 GMT I just made one yesterday to get the inner door/window handles off. Took about a minute with a angle grinder and a piece of strap steel. IPD sells something that works too: http://www.ipdusa.com/Volvo-122/Tools/Door-Handle-&-Clip-Removal-Tool/p-71-707-2034/ I think it's common at auto body supply shops too. Paul http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377289&rss=1 Mon, 5 Oct 2009 11:50 GMT It's a '67.5 P130, so it has the newer rear axle parts. What year car do you have? Should be able to get those parts off. Paul http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377252&rss=1 Mon, 5 Oct 2009 03:45 GMT I'm going to pickup the rest of the car (rolling chassis) in two weeks. The rear bumper brackets are still on the car. The bumper is gone. Let me know if you would be interested in them. Paul http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377216&rss=1 Mon, 5 Oct 2009 00:13 GMT I'll see what's left and try and grab as much as I can. What exactly are you looking for? It's a '67 P130 and I don't know if it's a '67 or a 67.5. Paul http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377026&rss=1 Sun, 4 Oct 2009 01:23 GMT I have a friend that's parting out a 2-dr that's letting me have any remaining parts that I want before it goes off to the crusher. Anybody have a trick to remove the seal on the rear pop-out window that doesn't ruin the seal? I figure bending the bottom section up until it allows enough space to remove it. Paul http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1376913&rss=1 Sat, 3 Oct 2009 14:41 GMT With a B20, go with the overdrive first, then change the rearend later. Bob Silvius post some information on how to install a M41 in a 544: http://vclassics.com/pv_od.html Enough people here have done it to help out. Here are some very nice pictures somebody sent me on a modified tranny tunnel for a 445: <a href="http://s144.photobucket.com/albums/r168/malloy1/?action=view&current=PC280044.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r168/malloy1/PC280044.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> <a href="http://s144.photobucket.com/albums/r168/malloy1/?action=view&current=PC280040.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r168/malloy1/PC280040.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> <a href="http://s144.photobucket.com/albums/r168/malloy1/?action=view&current=P1080018.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r168/malloy1/P1080018.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> He was going to use a 122 tranny tunnel, but decided to go with a custom made tunnel. Paul http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1375227&rss=1 Sat, 26 Sep 2009 14:47 GMT To calculate speed from RPM, you will need to know the tire radius and gear ratios (transmission/rearend). There are a few calculators on the internet like this one: http://www.nightrider.com/biketech/calc_speed_rpm.htm Paul http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1373316&rss=1 Fri, 18 Sep 2009 10:06 GMT This is a picture of a '53 444 <a href="http://s144.photobucket.com/albums/r168/malloy1/?action=view&current=53444.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r168/malloy1/53444.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1371809&rss=1 Sat, 12 Sep 2009 14:49 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/