http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=26660 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 08:29 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 08:29 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. My 240 has 14 inch wheels on it but a 15 inch "temporary" spare in the trunk (from a 740 I think). Too long and tiresome for all to suffer an explanation why. My question is, would it be a problem if I had to use the spare, which would result in (temporarily) driving with three 14 inch wheels and one 15 inch wheel. I have no idea what the net result of this would be, but hopefully someone out there knows the score about this. Thanks in advance. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385545&rss=1 Wed, 11 Nov 2009 16:03 GMT I use Michelin X Radials, size 205/70/R14 on my wagon, and like them a lot. The wagon is used mostly for highway use and often times has a load in back of some sort. In the winter I use Gislaveds, size195/70R/14, and like them very much, but unfortunately I don't think they're too available in the US any more. They are a real throwback but are what Volvo used to sell as their recommended snow tire through the dealer network. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1371420&rss=1 Thu, 10 Sep 2009 17:51 GMT Thanks, Art. I was trying to duplicate the insulated one you show, and you're right, it wasn't fitting over the starter test terminal connector (even using a connector sized for 12 gauge wire). I will go with the uninsulated connector that you also show and suggest. Thanks again. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1370895&rss=1 Tue, 8 Sep 2009 14:31 GMT Hello Art-- Do you happen to know what gauge wire you are using, and also if solid or stranded? I'm trying to duplicate your set up but can't seem to get the right size spade connector to fit into the test socket in my 90 240 sedan. Thanks. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1370621&rss=1 Mon, 7 Sep 2009 11:05 GMT Oh yes, a true believer indeed. When I finally "had" to get rid of my 1976 in 1999 due to rust, I liked it more after 23 years than when I purchased it in 1976 , and I really liked it a lot then (also purchased new). I did not want to part with it in 1999, just had to. I still miss the sound of that growly b21 engine with the manual transmission. I think that if you got a manual transmission in 1976 you could not get power steering -- mine certainly didn't have it. In that car, parallel parking with the manual steering is something the driver had to sit up straight for, get the sleeves pulled back, and get mentally psyched up for, all with a view of reducing the risk of tearing a muscle you see. I don't parallel parking in that car could have been done after one had consumed a heavy, rich meal; I know I would never try it. So, I've had two new ones. What's it like getting a new car, already aware you intend to keep it forever? About the only thing I can think of is it is more expensive! For that price "you" do know all miles put on the car were put on by "you", but these iron age beasts can take a lot of abuse from previous owners until a select few fall into the hands of we caring owners who frequent the brickboard. You're right, the7/9 and even 8 series didn't sway me (though I did own a used 780 for about 8 or 9 years). For me, the 240 represents something approaching perfect design balance, having just the right compromise among various design issues, including handling (in town and on the highway), durability, safety, comfort, spaciousness and fuel economy. I'd much rather have a rear drive than a front drive, such as in the 8 series (even though snows are pretty much required in winter). I find interesting also that Volvo did keep making some improvements in the 240 right up 'till the end, such as putting R134a refrigerant in the 93s. Not sure when they put the power side mirrors in, just know that they are not on the 1990 240 but are on the 1993 240. I hope Volvo wasn't using a bunch of leftover, slightly "off" parts in the last month of production! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1369953&rss=1 Thu, 3 Sep 2009 16:21 GMT Hi Art-- Yes, happy to report for the sake of (my) sanity that I have seen the test socket and gray plug on other 240s. Two of my 240s, both manufactured in April, 1993 (the last full month of 240 production I believe, the last 240 rolling off the line, according to my understanding, on or about May 4, 1993) have the fuses on the battery post. The door label on my third 1993 240 indicates manufacture during November, 1992, and that car does not have the fuses on the battery post. None of the three have the test socket in the "usual" place, and I could find no socket and gray plug anywhere else. Any theories on why such variability at the tail end of the long, long production period of our (mostly) wonderful 240 bricks? Just think, essentially the same great car produced from 1975 to 1993. What a run! (when I learned back in early 1993 that that was the last year of production I bit the bullet and ordered a new one --I was still driving my 1976 at the time, and didn't want to run out of 240s for a long time!). http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1369910&rss=1 Thu, 3 Sep 2009 14:02 GMT 240 savants: just for the fun of it, I went looking for the starter test terminal in my 93 240. To my surprise, it's playing hide and seek and winning. Or, is it a figment of the imagination in the 93s and simply doesn't exist? Thanks in advance for your appreciated input. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1369876&rss=1 Thu, 3 Sep 2009 12:24 GMT Hey benski, Yeah, I know, I debated with myself whether to make such a post. I'm in the North too, and these babies can really hold the water away from the feet. I just dumped a quart of water into the part of the mat that sits parallel to the ground (as opposed to where it turns up in the area behind the brake pedal). At the one quart level the water was about even with the top of the ridges. Go to Amazon and search "Kraco k2500 black", and then go to the bottom left of the screen to find the mat, then enlarge to take a gander at the beautiful tread pattern. Enjoy! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1369263&rss=1 Mon, 31 Aug 2009 19:29 GMT Jac912-- One of the things I really like about the Kraco 2500 mat is the deep ridges, which allow "everything" on your shoes (snow, debris, water) to fall into the recesses of the ridges. Also, the pattern of the ridges allows this to happen no matter where your feet are on the floor. The thing I don't like about carpet-type mats is that the snow, water and dirt kinda just sits there on your shoes. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1368964&rss=1 Sun, 30 Aug 2009 10:22 GMT Boring subject but not a boring product. Anyone familiar with the Kraco K2500 floor mat? They should win some kind of design award, they are so good. I've had four sets in four cars, and they have to be the best floor mats on the planet: very flexible in any temperature, hold huge amounts of water and dirt, and have a seemingly perfect tread pattern. Simple is as smart does. Someone clearly put a lot of thought into this product when it was designed. My oldest set is probably eight or nine years old and shows zero wear. I used to buy them at Costco, but when I went there a couple of weeks ago to outfit my new brick discovered that they stopped carrying them. I freaked. After being spoiled by these floor mats over the years I could settle for nothing else. Managed to find some on Amazon at $12.99 (in black) per front side (sold individually). I have no financial interest in any of this, but do hope they sell a lot of them, because in my experience nothing comes even remotely close in total performance to this very fine product. Such design excellence, even on a seemingly mundane, everyday item, should be recognized. Just wanted to let you fellow bricksters know about these mats. If any of you have these beauties "installed" in your brick I'm sure you will agree with these comments. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1368675&rss=1 Fri, 28 Aug 2009 13:12 GMT I've read that there is a limp home mode that works when an air mass meter is unplugged (unplugged by brick driver because the amm has failed). I've never done this, and am wondering how "drivable" the brick is in this condition (how far can one drive like this, and at what speeds). Anybody have a feel for this? Thanks. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1367696&rss=1 Sun, 23 Aug 2009 19:07 GMT Hello runwld2-- Sorry for the long delay in responding to your questions; I've been a little derelict (a little??). I'm not melting fuses at all, but rather, wanting to ensure good fuse box performance "at all times" so that all electrical components are getting the right voltage. The question now that I don't know the answer to, and it may be academic, is which is preferable, copper/brass ceramic fuses (with maybe a conducting grease smear on the ends) or glass fuses (also with a grease smear). It has been so long since I purchased the glass fuses that I don't remember where I purchased them, but it had to be either from an auto parts store or through IPD (assuming IPD sold such fuses maybe 10 or 15 years ago; don't know offhand). http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1367331&rss=1 Fri, 21 Aug 2009 11:09 GMT Thanks much, Art. So, an 8.02 or so amp reading might be within spec at the fuse location. I did notice the fuel injection system runs off that fuse also. I'm probably worrying about nothing. If I did want to test the pump in series, then would I simply unplug the connector in the back seat area and connect my amp meter between the yellow/red wire male plug and yellow/red wire female plug, is that correct? I did check the ground visually and it "looks" clean. Your illustrative picture is fabulous. Thanks again. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1364490&rss=1 Fri, 7 Aug 2009 15:56 GMT On my 1993 wagon, I'm reading 8.02 amps at the fuse block with the main fuel pump fuse removed. My understanding is that I'm only supposed to be reading about 6.5 amps. My fuel pump relay has only 40, 000 miles on it, so my guess (boy, it is really that) is that either my main fuel pump is starting to wear out or there is a flaky ground. Any thoughts. and also any specific knowledge where the main fuel pump ground is located so that I can check that? Thanks. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1364457&rss=1 Fri, 7 Aug 2009 13:56 GMT Hello Goatman, Interesting comment. Lead is not my favorite thing to inhale. Have you opted for fuses other than lead/ceramic? Best regards, all240s http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1363426&rss=1 Sun, 2 Aug 2009 08:54 GMT I'm wondering if glass fuses would perform better than ceramic fuses in our beloved bricks (by "perform better" I mostly mean have fewer problems maintaing good contact in the fuse block)? Any knowledge/experience out there on this issue? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1363424&rss=1 Sun, 2 Aug 2009 08:27 GMT I love driving these mules. I bought my 1993 245 when it had 96,000 miles on it and it now has 136,000, used mostly for highway. How many miles does yours have on it (just wondering how long a center support bearing typically lasts)? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1358498&rss=1 Tue, 7 Jul 2009 09:37 GMT (this is a repost from the "ALL" area so more 240 types will see) I just bought a 1993 240 sedan, and am looking for advice/opinions on the "best" tire size/wheel combination to choose. It has 15 inch steel wheels (from a 740 I think) on it now, and I also have an extra set of 14 inch steel wheels. No matter what happens, it will need tires fairly soon, but not right away. I'm not concerned about snow because in the winter it will wear 14 inch wheels with Gislaved snows. So, I have a choice between 14 inch and 15 inch wheels, and then tire size. I'm looking for the "best" compromise among all the issues involved, so that the wheel/tire size it gets will do everything (ride quality, handling, etc.) quite well, but nothing extreme. I'm not too concerned about speedo error because that can be adjusted for. Car will be used as a daily driver, mostly around town with some highway driving. Thanks in advance for your thoughts which I value. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1358128&rss=1 Sat, 4 Jul 2009 16:01 GMT I just bought a 1993 240 sedan, and am looking for advice/opinions on the "best" tire size/wheel combination to choose. It has 15 inch steel wheels (from a 740 I think) on it now, and I also have an extra set of 14 inch steel wheels. No matter what happens, it will need tires fairly soon, but not right away. I'm not concerned about snow because in the winter it will wear 14 inch wheels with Gislaved snows. So, I have a choice between 14 inch and 15 inch wheels, and then tire size. I'm looking for the "best" compromise among all the issues involved, so that the wheel/tire size it gets will do everything (ride quality, handling, etc.) quite well, but nothing extreme. I'm not too concerned about speedo error because that can be adjusted for. Car will be used as a daily driver, mostly around town with some highway driving. Thanks in advance for your thoughts which I value. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1358092&rss=1 Sat, 4 Jul 2009 11:10 GMT I had the same problem with the left wheel well a number of years ago with my 1990 240. I used the POR 15 system to fix the problem. It worked fantastically. Search the Brickboard for "Por 15" to learn more. It's a little time consuming but you will not be disappointed with the results. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1354033&rss=1 Sat, 13 Jun 2009 19:33 GMT When my 1990 240 needed the left rear wheel well done (it was in bad shape), I knew the POR 15 would do the job, but didn't trust myself to have the patience to do the job right (I mean, the steps just go on and on, but when followed to the letter produce amazing results). So, since my wife loves our 240s as much as I do, she agreed to do the job (her little 240 project)!! I assembled all the POR supplies, printouts of the highly detailed instructions, stuff from the brickboard site., etc, and for about 5 days (an hour or two each day I think), carefully, one step at a time she proceeded to implement the entire process, and did an incredible job. This was about 7 years ago. Not bad for a 58 year old female!! (She loves her Volvos.) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1353793&rss=1 Fri, 12 Jun 2009 14:34 GMT Anyone have any idea on the life expectancy of an air mass meter in a 240? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1352981&rss=1 Mon, 8 Jun 2009 13:40 GMT Anyone out there have a feel for the "average" life expectancy of an air mass meter used in a 240? Perhaps a better way to put is what kind of "normal" ranges are experienced, and does life expectancy relate more to number of starts than to miles, etc. (perhaps this is unknown)? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1352581&rss=1 Sat, 6 Jun 2009 13:00 GMT I had the same issue with my 1990 240 when I purchased it used in 1999. I place electrician's tape (the black shiny type) around the perimeter of the rubber piece that encircles the base of the driver's side windshield wiper. The floor has been dry ever since. Don't know if this would apply to your situation, but it's easy to try. Another possibility is placing black silicone caulk around the windshield perimeter on the driver's side. Don't know where else it could be coming from. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1351524&rss=1 Mon, 1 Jun 2009 12:53 GMT I've been driving 240s since October, 1976, when I drove home my new, manual transmission Sahara Beige 240 (20 years later finally given a name, The Blond Bombshell). It drove like a Sherman Tank from day one until the day 23 years later I reluctantly parted with it due to rust in October, 1999. I liked it more 23 years later than I did on the day I drove it home the first time. I still miss the sound (growl) of that B21 engine. Man, that engine was built to do work. When I learned that 1993 was going to be the last year of production, I ran right out to the dealer like an excited school girl and ordered a 1993 with manual transmission, and also went with the limited slip differential option, thank you very much. At the time, manual transmissions were not too popular so mine had to be ordered from the factory, and was produced in the last full month of 240 production (April, 1993). It presently has about 67,000 cream puff miles on it, the vast majority of which are highway miles. In October, 1999, I purchased a used 1990 240 with 216,000 mikes on it for $1800. Of course it needed a fair amount of little things to be fixed, just the normal wear and tear/maintenance variety. This is my daily driver coming up on 10 years this October, I have never garaged it, it has 246,000 miles on it now, and is used almost exclusively for really frequent, really short trips. So, that's 30,000 miles of this type of use. The car has been well maintained. I love driving this mule. The engine just seems to thrive on doing work. These late model b230 engines are pure driving pleasure. In 2004 I purchased a used 240 1993 wagon with 96,000 miles on it; it currently has 134,000 miles on it. Of course, the capacity of the wagons, when the back is "flat-bedded", is immense. The car is a dream. I'd like to own five more 240s, just don't have the space. I consider 240s dream machines. To me, a 240 offers, essentially, perfection of design balance. In my case, the market value of 240s keeping up with the cost of repairs doesn't really matter, I guess because of the way I think about them. Driving basically the same car design that I love for 33 years and counting is reward enough. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1345805&rss=1 Sat, 25 Apr 2009 13:12 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/