http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=26049 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sun, 22 Nov 2009 12:13 GMT Sun, 22 Nov 2009 12:13 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. I checked all the fuses, they are all good. i also checked the power and ground wires going to the unit. i think 3 in total and they were ok. then there are also communication wires too that can turn it on i think. its looking like i am gonna have to replace it. should a try a used one first? if it dont work, then ill have to burn for the shipping chrages. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1360212&rss=1 Thu, 16 Jul 2009 14:51 GMT the method did n ot work. What does POD stand for? the whole control unit does not work. the fan, the lights, switches, everything does not work. you said to turn the fan switch on, the fan will not work, because the switch has noo power can I put a used control unit in this car? the dealer said it is mated to the cars and if i put a used one in it would not work cause it is mated to the car it came from. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1358918&rss=1 Thu, 9 Jul 2009 15:41 GMT it very well could be the loose battery terminal. did it only do it the one time? and did it do it again after tightening the cable? if you turn the key and it does not start but you hear a click coming from the engine then it could be the starter. most likely it is the batt cable http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1358467&rss=1 Tue, 7 Jul 2009 01:40 GMT they do know that i disconnected the battery, they could just be trying to make money off of me i will not buy anything until i try this method thank-you http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1357803&rss=1 Thu, 2 Jul 2009 14:51 GMT my ac control unit stopped working on my 2000 volvo s-80 non turbo. i replaced the battery and then it stopped working. my check engine light come on and the dealership scanned it and said it was the control unit. they want 1100 just for the part. anyone know where i could get one cheaper????? also i asked about putting a used one on and they said they are mated to the car and i have to get a new one. a used one would not work, has anyone put a used on in their car before and did it work????? http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1357510&rss=1 Wed, 1 Jul 2009 02:06 GMT it is your brake booster, i am about to change one on a customers car, his was making the same noise. check out racepages.com, they sell remans for a good price http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1357509&rss=1 Wed, 1 Jul 2009 02:05 GMT ok i took the whole antenna out of the car put it on the bench. ive read you are supposed to use the old antenna as a slide hammer to pull it out of the shaft. i was able to do that. my problem is the little steel insert that holds the mast in is still inside of the shaft. how the heck does that come out. there is a new one supplied with the replacement mast. i have a few of these things, i ruined one by trying to dig it out. please help. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1335574&rss=1 Wed, 4 Mar 2009 23:13 GMT on this 98 xc70 i am loosing furl pressure when car is off, it is not right away, but a gradual loss of pressure. Which then leads to a hard start problem. The system is a no-fuel return. So i am thinking it is the check valve that is built into the fuel pump. tHAT is what the dealer tells me, so thats like 500$ could there be another reson for fuel pressure loss in this system? http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1264017&rss=1 Mon, 10 Mar 2008 18:49 GMT http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1264015&rss=1 Mon, 10 Mar 2008 18:47 GMT you can get access to it under the dash. there is a rubber seal and plae around the steering shaft. undo the top bolt then pull the steering wheel lock lever and pull the wheel out, now lift up on the round plate with a srewdriver and pull the rubber seal off to, now just undo the bottom bolt and yank it off. u probably will have to use a long srewdriver and pound it off with a hammer from underneath http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1263270&rss=1 Fri, 7 Mar 2008 00:45 GMT you can get access to it under the dash. there is a rubber seal and plae around the steering shaft. undo the top bolt then pull the steering wheel lock lever and pull the wheel out, now lift up on the round plate with a srewdriver and pull the rubber seal off to, now just undo the bottom bolt and yank it off. u probably will have to use a long srewdriver and pound it off with a hammer from underneath http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1263269&rss=1 Fri, 7 Mar 2008 00:45 GMT our shop purchased a s40 that was hit in the right front corner, no frame damage. We fixed her all up and replaced the diriver air bag then we went to turn off the airbag light at the dealer and we could not cause there were some hard codes that didnt reset. pass side seat belt tensioner pass and driv seat belt buckles pass and driv side air bags left front side impact sensor driver airbag stage 1 and stage 2 Now only the driver air bag went off in the collision(no pasenger) so why would all these codes come up that shouldnt. I would understand seeing driver seat belt tensioner and buckle and then replaceing the clock spring, but all this other stuff has us puzzled. so we replaced the module with one supossidly not in an accident and then the clockspring and brought it back to the dealer. the codes now read: pass airbag stage 1 and stage 2 driv airbag stage 1 and stage 2 pass and driv seat belt tensioner i am thinking that the modules are storing different codes and maybe we need one that wasnt in a collision the volvo dealer tells me the module does not need to be changed untill 3 accidents. also they tell me i have to replace all of the items that come up as codes, but why do i knoe get different codes with diferent modules http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1257817&rss=1 Mon, 11 Feb 2008 16:53 GMT http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1257807&rss=1 Mon, 11 Feb 2008 16:29 GMT Ive been continuosly trying to bleed this brake system after replacing the distribution block with a new one, LF caliper - new and the punch marks that volvo put in both lined up so it must have been rebuilt correctly. also when i replaced the claiper i pinched off the flex hoses, so ive tried replacing those and still a spongy pedal.Also ive tried 2 new master cylinders Ive been using the bleeding procedure from a haynes manual LR, LFupper, RF upper, RR, RF outer then inner, LF outer then inner. Ive used an assistant to pump up the pedal and i crack the bleeder loose. then ive put a rubber hose in a bottle left the bleeder open and pumped the pedal a bunch of times and then shut the bleeder. nothing seems to be working on a new master cylinder, could pushing the brake pedal all the way to the floor ruin the seals? I would think not, but as u can see i am grasping for answers. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1254907&rss=1 Mon, 28 Jan 2008 21:45 GMT if you are getting power to the coil with a new coil and powerstage, and still no spark then it would have to be wires cap/rotor and spark plugs. I would think ur mechanic would check all of that. I think he did not correctly check for power at the coil. I would bring it to the dealer to get a 2nd opinion, because if no power to the coil then there are lots of options for the problem. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1244391&rss=1 Sat, 22 Dec 2007 22:40 GMT you have to look from underneath and see if it is leaking, you may not see fluid dripping. Also if your mount is bad you will probably feel a bad vibration throughout the car. There is one mount in front of the the engine there is one on either side of the engine in the centre(at rad, and at firewall) http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1230441&rss=1 Fri, 2 Nov 2007 22:44 GMT I have found that when the car is running poorly, it is running lean. Then oviously when it runs good, it runs rich. The fuel pump i do not beleive has been changed, that is an expensive item just to replace to see if it runs better, but i will keep that in mind. This car uses a MAP sensor, not a MAF. I have checked out the voltage output of the MAP and it is ok. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1220015&rss=1 Wed, 26 Sep 2007 13:33 GMT I have found that when the car is running poorly, it is running lean. Then oviously when it runs good, it runs rich. The fuel pump i do not beleive has been changed, that is an expensive item just to replace to see if it runs better, but i will keep that in mind. This car uses a MAP sensor, not a MAF. I have checked out the voltage output of the MAP and it is ok. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1220014&rss=1 Wed, 26 Sep 2007 13:33 GMT I had a car doing the same thing, It lossed fuel pressure after sitting for a bit, i pinched off the return line above the engine, and now it did not loose fuel pressure. Changed the fuel pressure regulator and then the car ran great, no more stalling and really good idle. A faulty fpr can cause a lean mixture which could cause the cat to get rally hot because the cat need fuel to keep cool. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1219600&rss=1 Mon, 24 Sep 2007 21:58 GMT i have had a 97 and 95 850s that i think both had the jumper wires crossed. But they had no power to the coil from the pcm. The problem was a blown relay right next to the fuse panel. Take the cover off with torx screws, and there are i think 3 "J" relays, one or 2 of those could be bad, maybe just swap them around. I can tell you what they are for off the top of my head, but check those. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1219599&rss=1 Mon, 24 Sep 2007 21:51 GMT cam sensor could be the problem, wrong timing of the spark. Also you could have a weak spark, could be A bad coil, or powerstage. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1219595&rss=1 Mon, 24 Sep 2007 21:46 GMT On this volvo it sometimes idles very good and acelerates very well, other times it idles rough(up and down) and has poor aceleration(hesitates)It can run good for whole trip, then bad the next trip. It can run good at one stop sign and bad the next one. It is a very irratic problem. Also a note, the o2 sensor reads a constant 900 mv at idle and 2500rpm. When I snap back the throtle ( release gas pedal) the voltage go to about 300mv then go back up to 900mv. That tells me that the o2 sensor is working and the car must be running rich, which still doesnt explain the irratic running problem. This car does have high milage 350,000k and i would suspect intake gasket, but i used accetyline and could determine a intake leak anywhere. And tips or suggestions would be apprciated, thank-you Volvorecycle http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1219576&rss=1 Mon, 24 Sep 2007 20:54 GMT This situation in very strange, I blew my head gasket, so I ripped it off, and I plained the and totally cleaned me head, re-faced my valves and changed the valve seals. When I set the correst timing at TDC, the car performs like shit, even whe I advance the distributor as much as possible, i have to remove the dist, and advance it one tooth in order to get good performance, and it is much faster at that point, and it continues to pick up as it gets near the red line. But like i said sometimes it is hard to start because of the timing is not correct, and i gotta hit the gas when i do start it. One thing I do need to do is check the physical timing on the belt. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1201677&rss=1 Mon, 23 Jul 2007 17:05 GMT I am not sure about this, but when installing an A cam into my 82 242, Do I need to advance the camshaft in order to acheive more power? I have advanced the timing (pulled the distributor out and advanced it one tooth) and did acheive more power, but it is hard to start sometimes, because the timing is off. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1201620&rss=1 Mon, 23 Jul 2007 12:43 GMT that a tough problem, maybe a bad ground or something. I GUESS I WOULD START BY PULLING APRAT THE CENTER COUNSOLE and looking for any bad wiring and checking the the shifter release solinoid, i have found these to fail or work interminently in 850's. that is all i can really say, not too framiliar with the newer 960's http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1168243&rss=1 Sun, 18 Mar 2007 02:32 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/