http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=26038 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 14:06 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 14:06 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. This sounds like the perfect motive for a V8 conversion. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387356&rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 18:12 GMT The only access is through the back seat. However, you will not be able to crawl into the trunk because of the cross bracing behind the seat back. You may be able to unbolt the hinges. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387349&rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 17:48 GMT If you need a parts (other than body) car of that year it may be worth the effort and possible expense of getting it home. However, IMHO, as a car it is worthless. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386851&rss=1 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 04:13 GMT There is a coolant drain valve for the block just under cylinder #3. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386675&rss=1 Mon, 16 Nov 2009 16:52 GMT Anyone in the San Francisco Bay Area have experience with these yards? If so how is their 240 stock and prices? I do not think any are PnP. European Auto Wrecking 7324 Wells Ave, Newark, CA (510) 795-8910 European Auto Salvage Yard 4060 Harlan St, Emeryville, CA (510) 653-5734 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386385&rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 04:51 GMT You must be right. I looked at my engine and yes #3 is closer to the fuel distributor than I remembered. The 5/16" was an eyeball guess at the hose ID. Last and not leased there is a piece of yellow tap around the swivel nut end with #3's on it. What confuses me is the swivel nut connection. My injector connections have a simple nut and furle on the black plastic tubing inside the rubber hose. The furle is like the oval sleeve on copper tube compression fittings. This new hose has a flat-faced fitting inside the nut. The injector itself looks like it takes a flare or inverted-flare fitting. What kind of mess have I got? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384234&rss=1 Thu, 5 Nov 2009 04:17 GMT The Price sounds about right and it sure looks like a fuel line. It may well have a plastic k-jet type line inside the rubber hose. I have an '81 non-turbo k-jet and the lines between the fuel distributor and the injectors are much longer than this. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383871&rss=1 Tue, 3 Nov 2009 16:39 GMT I have this fuel hose which I ordered by mistake quite a while ago. It is a "J" shape, 5/16" diameter, and about 8" long. There is a small banjo fitting on one end and a swivel nut on the other. The part number is 1219889. Can anybody tell me what models this fits. I would like to get rid of it. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383585&rss=1 Mon, 2 Nov 2009 05:43 GMT http://www.volvogue.com/Volvogue_Home.php This company is making some interesting 240 accessaries. Included are white and red bumper striping, rear spring spacers, plastic rear fender liners, and wood trim kits. They seem expensive. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382460&rss=1 Wed, 28 Oct 2009 05:59 GMT Could you share the name and location of the place you found. Also any part numbers or brand names the shop can give you or that is printed on the hose. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382421&rss=1 Wed, 28 Oct 2009 03:09 GMT I understand you are in a hurry. I just want to add some possible clarity as to what "hydraulic shop" means. I have read here about hydraulic product suppliers, which to me are different. I had good luck looking under hydraulics in the yellow pages for a distributor advertising Parker Hydraulic Products. Parker is a major national suppler. I checked their website, parker.com, and they have ac hose and fittings. A local supplier might not be able to look up a specific automotive application. They should be able to identify your hose and fittings on sight and assembly a new one. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382243&rss=1 Tue, 27 Oct 2009 07:57 GMT Standard 1/4" female spade terminals fit the bulb socket contacts. Wiring the harness directly to the sockets bypasses the oem tail light circuit. Then you can unplug the sockets when needed. Also, there is no lead based solder to corrode. The outer socket contacts are the grounds so no worries about clearence to the body. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381933&rss=1 Mon, 26 Oct 2009 03:00 GMT Thanks Art. Your great pic's are a big help as always. In particular I can see how far the pulley goes on the shaft, how the cable raps around the pulley, and how the crimp fits onto the pulley. I took the shaft out by removing the wiper arm. I did not remove the mount so as not to risk a leak. I'm going to try super glue. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380394&rss=1 Mon, 19 Oct 2009 02:21 GMT Hey All, My driver&#226;&#128;&#153;s side wiper suddenly stopped in the middle of a heavy rain. A few minutes later the pulley fell out from under the dash. After removing the shaft I find it is apparently just a press fit? The pulley fit on the splined shaft is snug but comes off easily. What is the best way to fix? Loctite, super glue, drill and pin, trip to the PnP? I have looked at the "Zen of 240 Wiper Linkage" at: http://www.jimjmorris.com/cvcoa/wipers.htm http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380367&rss=1 Sun, 18 Oct 2009 23:38 GMT Perhaps it is just academic but I would be concerned about the size and amount of bubbles. The presents of bubbles should make the bushing softer and perhaps prone to tearing. Extreme care in the mixing and injecting processes might help reduce this. In addition, I wonder about the need for a UV additive to something that is not subject to direct sun light. Consider polychromatic glasses. They do not darken much when I wear a hat with even a small brim. Apparently, UV rays do not reflect in the same way as visible light so indirect exposure is reduced. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379627&rss=1 Thu, 15 Oct 2009 17:18 GMT I have done this also with a oil pressure and voltage gauge. I have two new still in Volvo blue plastic wrapper gauge panels. Send me $5 plus say $2 for postage if you like. I'm not sure if the rubber wedges are included but they are cheap and may still be availabe from a dealer. Also these may help: http://www.swedishbricks.net/faq/gauges.html http://www.egauges.com/vdo_grou.asp?Series=Cockpit http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377795&rss=1 Wed, 7 Oct 2009 05:30 GMT Left and right. To visualize this open the hood and look down at the A arm. Imagine the bottom of the strut moving forward and backward just a small amount. Then look at the A arm front inner bushing. The A arm would be pivoting at this point back and forth parallel to the ground. Now visualize how the rear A arm mount would also have to move side-to-side. Your problem is definitely not normal. A good alignment or front-end technician should be able to check the joints and alignment to tell what parts to change before bringing it in for an alignment. Or it may just need an alignment. There is some clearance in the bracket bolt holes. You may be able to move the bracket a very small amount yourself. You only need to break the three bolts loose to be able to move the bracket by taping it with a mallet. The bolts do not need to be backed out at all. You do not want the bracket moving around by itself. Move the bracket outward to increase the caster. If the caster were out of spec the front bushing would not be properly aligned anyway. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1376615&rss=1 Fri, 2 Oct 2009 04:21 GMT That was my message. It is a method I devised to compensate for a slightly out of spec caster on the right side of my '81. The car has never been in any accidents and I had replaced everything except the upper strut bearings and front A arm bushings. Definitely make sure everything is in order and have the existing alignment measured on a system that gives you a printed report. If a good front-end technician cannot fix the problem then the above method will work. I explained to the alignment technician what I had done and how that would change the caster. The change should be done by an alignment shop, with a printed before and after report, because all adjustments are interactive. The technician simply needs to loosen the bolts on the side needing adjustment and tap the bracket with a mallet to move it left or right. You only need to slot the holes 1/8" in each direction to be able to make a couple degree change in each direction. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1376495&rss=1 Thu, 1 Oct 2009 16:10 GMT I put the same bars on my '81 nearly 10 years ago. I noticed nothing different about the end links. Are yours sill angled when the car in sitting level on the ground. The only problem I had was with the larger sway bar mounts fitting between the original mounting bolts. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1374292&rss=1 Tue, 22 Sep 2009 06:49 GMT That module is the ignition module. Since it has a vacuum hose it is the special high mileage Chrysler ignition system. The distributor should have a white cap. Consult the shop manual for vacuum hose routing. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1374290&rss=1 Tue, 22 Sep 2009 06:43 GMT Water from the cowl flows down the inner panel directly over the vent opening on its' way to the drain at the bottom of the fender. The depth of the vent door collar prevents entry when the vent is open. Both the vent door seal and the vent perimeter seal must be good. My '81 with the old style a/c had a drivers side vent. The passenger side had a non-vented panel with a buldge to cover the lamda and CIS modules. I also relocated the modules and got a vent assembly and vented panel from the recycler. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1373958&rss=1 Mon, 21 Sep 2009 00:50 GMT http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1371519&rss=1 Fri, 11 Sep 2009 01:57 GMT At the bottom of every posted message is this "Select, copy to buffer, and paste anywhere" thing. What is it for and how is it used? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1371322&rss=1 Thu, 10 Sep 2009 10:07 GMT Do you have the 2-cylinder vertical twin compressor or the radial type? I find a 10mm deep socket on a 1/4" ratchet work well for the small bolts on the crank pulley. When you take this pulley off it will come apart in front and rear halves with shim rings in front and/or in between the halves. Also note the notch that fits on the crank key. I remove the fan from the water pump pulley first to give my knuckles more room. A 10mm open-end wrench works well for this. A simpler and faster method is to remove the compressor pulley instead. You must energies the compressor clutch to prevent it from turning while removing the center bolt. There is a single wire connector to the clutch. Connect this to any convenient 12 Volt source to engage the clutch without turning on the A/C. The compressor pulley is then removed by screwing in a larger bolt into the center of the pulley. There are two sets of threads there. The large bolt pulls of the pulley. I cannot remember the size but it might be 5/8" for the vertical twin compressor. Place the belt on both pulleys and then refit the compressor pulley with the original center bolt. The tapered compressor shaft allows the belt and pulley to be pulled up tight. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1371106&rss=1 Wed, 9 Sep 2009 14:01 GMT Thanks. That works great. I put the whole thing <img src='http://www.brickboard.com/GALLERY/images/8651.jpg'/> into the message box. I wonder why the old procedure changed? It was kind of handy, just clicking on the image to add it. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1370987&rss=1 Tue, 8 Sep 2009 22:25 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/