http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=25743 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 10:40 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 10:40 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. you can avoid cutting the cable with IPD's diode kit. Catalog number E106. Dean http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377045&rss=1 Sun, 4 Oct 2009 02:49 GMT All good thoughts. The only other thing I did when I yanked out the engine is pulled the pan (I had another reason to do that) and installed the little reinforcing collar on the oil pump shaft. Probably dont need it but since I had 90% of the work done at that point, it seemed a shame not to install it. Dean http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1371725&rss=1 Sat, 12 Sep 2009 01:20 GMT Ha...this was at an auto shop in humble....right? I looked at it about a year ago. I wanted to buy it but just didnt have the space for another volvo. I am glad that it went to someone who will put it right again....good luck. Dean http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1364206&rss=1 Thu, 6 Aug 2009 01:55 GMT It's been a couple years since I fiddled around with a DGV in an 1800 till I got it to run well. I remember trying many jet combinations.....I dont exactly recall what I wound up with (I should have written it down) but i think the best combination was a 160 main and 150 secondary. I dont recall what air corrector jets I used. I do recall one thing however, i had to to to about 20deg advance at idle to make it accelerate well. Since then, it has been completely trouble free....and I get around 25-30 mpg. Here are some references if you dont have them: http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles/jetting.htm http://www.jessies.org/~car/projects/carb/ http://www.jessies.org/~car/projects/carb/carbguide/carbguide06.php http://www.izook.com/tech/samurai/engine/weber/weber.htm good luck dean http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1363954&rss=1 Tue, 4 Aug 2009 23:22 GMT Check out www.lokari.de they have liners for 122s Dean http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1344352&rss=1 Fri, 17 Apr 2009 19:04 GMT Geez George...chill out. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1339188&rss=1 Sat, 21 Mar 2009 23:01 GMT It is awfully cheap. It is strange that when I search for water pumps at Rockauto for '69 1800....it doesnt list that pump....only acdelco, bosch, cardone, and graf. But when I put the part number in that you posted, it does indeed come up and looks like the right pump....I guess as a spare to have round, it certainly is priced right. Dean http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1338988&rss=1 Fri, 20 Mar 2009 17:46 GMT I just went through this. I used a leveler and hoist that could raise as high as 7 feet or so. Front end was jacked up but only 6 inches or so. the leveler makes it very very easy to pull and replace these engines with the trans and OD installed. &#091img src='http://www.brickboard.com/GALLERY/images/8413.jpg'/&#093 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1338601&rss=1 Wed, 18 Mar 2009 23:14 GMT I think they are similar to the 1800....I pressed mine out (and new ones in) with a ball joint press (large C-clamp) which you can borrow from autozone. Dean http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1335163&rss=1 Tue, 3 Mar 2009 02:49 GMT I just went through this exercise on a p1800 with overdrive... Even with the extra length in the drive train, it is so easy to pull the engine on these that I would not even consider fooling around under the car trying to do this job. By the way, make sure the leak is the oil pan gasket....a bad distributor-to-block gasket can look a whole lot like and oil pan gasket leak. Dean http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1334189&rss=1 Thu, 26 Feb 2009 13:40 GMT I really like your 544 page....great photos. thanks Dean http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1328567&rss=1 Thu, 29 Jan 2009 14:13 GMT That's less than half of normal mileage so I doubt that this is your problem but just to eliminate everything..... Have you checked the odometer against a gps or other standard distance to be sure you are getting an accurate distance traveled? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1328174&rss=1 Tue, 27 Jan 2009 18:11 GMT Thanks Chris: I thought maybe it was an FI head but since I never had one I wasnt sure. And thanks for the pic link.... Dean http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1323575&rss=1 Tue, 6 Jan 2009 02:09 GMT Chris: I like the picture. There are some eyebolts in the head...I am not familiar with the bolt holes in that area....is this a non-standard B20 head? Are the eyebolts for engine removal? Thanks...just curious Dean http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1323439&rss=1 Mon, 5 Jan 2009 17:43 GMT Well that's good to hear. My haynes manual says the B20B should be timed at 10deg BTDC at idle. Dean http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1321246&rss=1 Wed, 24 Dec 2008 04:00 GMT My experience is that you have to get the idle jets right first. The right idle jet will get you to the point that it idles best when the idle screw is turned out about 2 turns. Then what I have found is that mine required a lot of advance to accelerate fine without hesitation. I cant explain why but when I went to almost 20deg of advance at idle, the thing pulls strong and runs well. I think I wound up with main jet around 160 and secondary jet at 150. Cant recall what air corrector jets I wound up with. But once you get it right....you never have to mess with it again. Dean http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1320807&rss=1 Sun, 21 Dec 2008 19:18 GMT thanks http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1319406&rss=1 Sun, 14 Dec 2008 23:17 GMT Does anybody know if new windshield glass is available for the 544? Or if donor glass is the only way to go.... Thanks Dean http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1319357&rss=1 Sun, 14 Dec 2008 18:22 GMT Did it have AC? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1318617&rss=1 Tue, 9 Dec 2008 23:32 GMT For what it's worth.....firestone still carried the 165R15 tires on the shelf a couple of years ago and the price was really cheap....about $30 a tire as I recall. I dont drive the car enough to tell how they wear with mileage, but in the last couple of years, they have handled fine for me....They are blackwall though. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1317330&rss=1 Tue, 2 Dec 2008 18:16 GMT No pinging or knocking.... but I do use premium gasoline. Dean http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1309109&rss=1 Tue, 21 Oct 2008 16:38 GMT The vacuum retard was an effort to reduce emissions at idle. I disconnected mine and advanced the timing at idle to around 15deg at ~700rpm which gave me much improved performance. Dean http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1309062&rss=1 Tue, 21 Oct 2008 12:48 GMT To check the bushings....try backing up...coast a bit, (downhill is ideal) and then apply the brakes...if you get the clunk...it is likely a bushing. I have seen this problem even on bushings that look ok. You can try tightening the bolts that run through the bushings.... Dean http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1297068&rss=1 Fri, 22 Aug 2008 01:14 GMT Glenn: I am in Houston too. SE side. You anywhere close? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1291774&rss=1 Fri, 25 Jul 2008 21:36 GMT Anybody else see the great looking 544 in the rockauto newsletter this month? Owned by Phil in MO. http://www.rockauto.com/Newsletter/index.html Phil: if you are on this list....that car is beautiful. Dean http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1290442&rss=1 Fri, 18 Jul 2008 15:49 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/