http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=25135 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 23:17 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 23:17 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. E-test exemption in Ontario currently only covers 1988 and older models. -- Michel Garcia - 1986 240 DL Manual Sedan - Ottawa, Canada http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1359457&rss=1 Sun, 12 Jul 2009 19:10 GMT I have a Lincoln weld-pak unit with an autoweld gas bottle that does the job, but not the best of jobs. My car is probably pretty galvanized being shipped to the Canadian market. Brief reading on the 1986 model gives some insight. I am a little worried about the zinc as I have welded exhaust parts and it's nasty to breathe and does not give very nice results. About the fenders, are they just tack welded so I can take them off with a chisel and hammer? Apart from my local scrapyard, is there a good online dealer for this sort of piece? -- Michel Garcia - 1986 240 DL Manual Sedan - Ottawa, Canada http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1358302&rss=1 Sun, 5 Jul 2009 21:43 GMT Thanks for the tips Steve, I'll give them a try. -- Michel Garcia - 1986 240 DL Manual Sedan - Ottawa, Canada http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1358079&rss=1 Sat, 4 Jul 2009 06:40 GMT I plan on cutting out the rusted sheet metal in the fenders, floor, and trunk. I want to weld new steel onto the car, grind the welds smooth and paint over. What gauge size and steel type should I use given that I have a Lincoln 120V MIG welder and some limited welding experience? I have a welding blanket to protect splatter. I have never attempted this sort of project before. Any tips are appreciated. Thanks! -- Michel Garcia - 1986 240 DL Manual Sedan - Ottawa, Canada http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357971&rss=1 Fri, 3 Jul 2009 16:52 GMT I MIG welded my header pipe flange that connects to the cat. I had to build up layers of material at low voltage or it would melt through. I had the luxury of having the header pipe off so I temporarily placed a ring made from old exhaust tubing so the new material would be retained. I didn't do a pressure test on my weld even though it passed the 'flashlight' test I had a very small leak. Welding on my back with the part connected to the car worked, but it was much harder to control the passes. If you can grind the welded bolts off to detach the unit, the welding will be easier, but then you'll need 2 new gaskets for the header pipe and need to tackle those 3 header-to-manifold nuts. Either way it's a messy job, good luck. -- Michel Garcia - 1986 240 DL Manual Sedan - Ottawa, Canada http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1346399&rss=1 Wed, 29 Apr 2009 00:24 GMT I recently changed my driveshaft bearing after it started whining. It was a cheap Scantech that lasted me 2 years so I replaced it with an SKF. I had not put the dust shield on when I used the Scantech bearing but put it back on for the new SKF. I also replaced the rubber mount which has seen better days. The whining sound is gone, but I hear something that sounds like the dust shield is rubbing against the rubber mount. I installed the shield in the right direction with the chamfered end facing the rubber mount. Maybe the metal lip backing on the driveshaft is bent after having removed an old bearing years ago and now does not allow for the right clearance between the dust shield and rubber mount? Any thoughts on going without the dust shield or would that age the bearing prematurely? Has anyone glued the shield to the driveshaft lip to fix the clearance? Thanks for your thoughts, -- Michel Garcia - 1986 240 DL Manual Sedan - Ottawa, Canada http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1346359&rss=1 Tue, 28 Apr 2009 21:15 GMT Could it be the motor driving the odometer? One sensor signal comes from the axle to measure speed and distance and if the speedometer works and the gears look fine, it could be the motor. I have yet to swap the motor from my spare console to see if that will fix the odometer with all gear teeth being intact. -- Michel Garcia - 1986 240 DL Manual Sedan - Ottawa, Canada http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1339857&rss=1 Wed, 25 Mar 2009 00:47 GMT I disconnected the battery terminal, and gave them a wire brush scrubbing and the car started! Coolant from the burst had made its way between the battery posts and clamps. Thanks for the tips, you saved me a lot of troubleshooting. Michel -- Michel Garcia - 1986 240 DL Manual Sedan - Ottawa, Canada http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1339835&rss=1 Tue, 24 Mar 2009 23:31 GMT My water pump burst on the highway and I had just enough time to get off before the temperature gauge entered orange. After the burst while I was still driving (not knowing that it had yet burst) all the lights at the bottom of the instrument panel went on and a smoky sweet smell started entering the cabin. I lost all the fluid from the pump from the bearing down and the engine bay was soaked. I got a tow home and started it (after a couple tries) to get up to the end of the driveway. I left it for the week and did the pump job this weekend. After finishing the pump job, I tried to start it up and heard only a "click-click" which I am assuming is the solenoid. If I turn the headlight switch on and crank the ignition, I get a buzzing noise that seems to be coming from a relay? I checked and even changed the distributor cap/rotor to see if there was liquid inside. No liquid in the spark plug wires either. The battery looked fine at 12.5V. I plan on going through the ignition troubleshooting in Bentley when it's light out and time permits. My guess is it's connected to the starter. Any ideas on what could be wrong or similar experiences? Thanks for the help in advance. Michel -- Michel Garcia - 1986 240 DL Manual Sedan - Ottawa, Canada http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1339430&rss=1 Mon, 23 Mar 2009 02:28 GMT I find I need to give the igntion about two tries to start in damp conditions. The car then sputters a bit until it warms up. It starts fine in warm weather. My guess after reading on the net is something with the distributor. Any thoughts? Thanks. -- Michel Garcia - 1986 240 DL Manual Sedan - Ottawa, Canada http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1210741&rss=1 Sat, 25 Aug 2007 01:47 GMT Could be a crack in your fuel tank sending unit (I had that happen on mine). Run the engine with the trunk access plate off and observe. -- Michel Garcia - 1986 240 DL Manual Sedan - Ottawa, Canada http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1209929&rss=1 Wed, 22 Aug 2007 15:55 GMT If you remove the rubber hoses connecting to the tank and remove brackets connecting the nylon line to the body, you can bring the assembly out from under the car and apply leverage conveniently. -- Michel Garcia - 1986 240 DL Manual Sedan - Ottawa, Canada http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1208237&rss=1 Thu, 16 Aug 2007 20:58 GMT You can undo the drain plug without lifting the car using a long enough wrench and be done in a few minutes while the neighbors are sipping tea. -- Michel Garcia - 1986 240 DL Manual Sedan - Ottawa, Canada http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1207543&rss=1 Tue, 14 Aug 2007 18:53 GMT I replaced the driveshaft bearing and wanted to change the rubber mount with a new one I got from FCP groton. The problem is I could not fit the mount over the bearing after an hour or so of struggling. The new mount would protect the bearing more than the old one that has more play and deformation. Any luck doing this? Are there any special tools for those annoyinly tight new mounts? 3 procedures thought, but not attempted: Having a pipe of inner diameter slightly larger than the bearing, I could fit that first into the mount and then slide the pipe/mount over the bearing? Place bearing in mount assuming it's easier before driving onto shaft. This might be akward to accomplish. You would have problems seating the bearing near the end of the driving. Cut a slot in the mount for ease of insertion and sacrifice some of the mount's shielding. -- Michel Garcia - 1986 240 DL Manual Sedan - Ottawa, Canada http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1181350&rss=1 Mon, 7 May 2007 14:22 GMT My passenger side front wheel bearing has been whining for the past 10 days or so and has gotten gradually worse. I ordered new bearings from FCP Groton and they should arrive this week. How dangerous is it to continue driving this week with bad bearings. I have heard stories of people losing wheels on other cars. Any account of that occurring with a 240? Thanks. -- Michel Garcia - 1986 240 DL Manual Sedan - Ottawa, Canada http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1179699&rss=1 Mon, 30 Apr 2007 05:55 GMT I put my 84 lb floor jack in the trunk. Changed someone's flat in a dirt parking lot with ease and speed. -- Michel Garcia - 1986 240 DL Manual Sedan - Ottawa, Canada http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1139181&rss=1 Mon, 4 Dec 2006 05:57 GMT I have AC installed, but it does not work. The person who sold me the car said there was no refrigerant inside. I have not played around with it myself. I will look around truck components. I heard that it is harder to use the heat off diesel engines to heat cabin air because they are more efficient, and so less heat is lost. It would make sense to look for something meant for diesel engines. But, a larger transport truck would just produce so much more power, that even though it is more efficient, the net heat loss would be greater than a smaller, less efficient gas ignition engine. -- Michel Garcia - 1986 240 DL Manual Sedan - Ottawa, Canada http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1138990&rss=1 Sun, 3 Dec 2006 19:51 GMT The fan shaft was too SHORT, not too long. That is why I had to cut the plastic blades to fit. -- Michel Garcia - 1986 240 DL Manual Sedan - Ottawa, Canada http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1138642&rss=1 Sat, 2 Dec 2006 17:03 GMT Sorry about the ambiguous explanation. I meant I had to trim the fan blades in the picture because the motor shaft was too long. That parts supplier has lost any future business from me. -- Michel Garcia - 1986 240 DL Manual Sedan - Ottawa, Canada http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1138640&rss=1 Sat, 2 Dec 2006 17:01 GMT My blower motor fan is cut because the motor is oversized and won't fit in the shroud otherwise. My AC has not worked since I own the car. I read somewhere that the AC is a major player in adding heat to the car, so the blower motor is less powerful than for a car without AC. My duct work is also shoddy, so my flow rate is low. I would like to bypass this system. I want to get a defroster so I don't have to wait 5 minutes before driving in the winter. I don't want to get something that plugs into the cigarette lighter because heat is limited to 12V*8AMP= 96 Watts. What about hooking anything up directly to the battery to get more current? What firewall hole should I use? I would wait until the car starts before turing the fan on so the starter can get what it needs. I care more about function than appearance, so I don't mind having something sticking out as long as it does not obstruct visibilty or burn me. Thanks a lot. Another Canadian winter is approaching... Going to put those winter tires on in a week. -- Michel Garcia - 1986 240 DL Manual Sedan - Ottawa, Canada http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1138563&rss=1 Sat, 2 Dec 2006 06:38 GMT Maybe the motor is loose (not properly bolted). Maybe the blades are rubbing against the housing. The centrifugal force might be enough to move the entire unit or just the blade/axle if there is play in the shaft. I would take the shroud of on both sides and compare the amount of play by touch. -- Michel Garcia - 1986 240 DL Manual Sedan - Ottawa, Canada http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1123515&rss=1 Fri, 13 Oct 2006 14:59 GMT I made the same error when I changed my filter. Is your tear on the high pressure side of the pump? You can try getting a piece of of line and connecting it with a barbed fitting with a leverage tool. I found that too much force was needed without the tool to insert the barbed fitting into the nylon line, so after many tries, I went to the dealer and got the replacement line to go from the fuel rail to the pump. Tip: disconnect part of the line from the undercarriage so you don't have to work underneath the car -- Michel Garcia - 1986 240 DL Manual Sedan - Ottawa, Canada http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1115645&rss=1 Sun, 17 Sep 2006 22:28 GMT After a day's worth of driving, it got really loud and when I got home and looked under the car, the cat connection was sheared off right before the flange. I am thinking of running a piece of straight pipe welded to the cat flange and bypassing the cat altogeter. I no longer have to worry about emmisions testing in Ontario since my car is over the age limit. Does anyone know the pipe diameter 2"-2.25"?. -- Michel Garcia - 1986 240 DL Manual Sedan - Ottawa, Canada http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1091154&rss=1 Thu, 29 Jun 2006 01:38 GMT I would only replace the mounts if there was something noticibly wrong. They should check the mount bearings once removed to determine if replacement is mechanically needed, or just an easy way to make money. I drove on broken coil springs for 3 months and did not replace the mounts after I finally replaced the springs. The bearings felt fine versus new ones I handled at a local shop while asking myself if I should replace them. -- Michel Garcia - 1986 240 DL Manual Sedan - Ottawa, Canada http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1091150&rss=1 Thu, 29 Jun 2006 01:29 GMT I revved the engine to 4000 RPM in first gear for the first time I can remember, and now the engine is cleary louder and I can smell the exhaust more. I checked for loose exhaust components and cracks in the pipes without lifting the car, but found nothing. Is there an easy way to check for a small leak? Also, could I have messed up the engine to cause the noise? I have no engine experience further than changing oil and belts. -- Michel Garcia - 1986 240 DL Manual Sedan - Ottawa, Canada http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1091020&rss=1 Wed, 28 Jun 2006 16:44 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/