http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=245 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 09:38 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 09:38 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. No, you do not have to remove the manifold. Look in the FAQ section, it is described in detail. Some people have trouble finding FAQ's ..... top right of this page, click shortcut. -- David Hunter http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387465&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 05:12 GMT Many possibilities. Open hood look, listen? -- David Hunter http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387462&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 05:08 GMT Not sure why you want to check the rotating parts of the drive shaft as it does not turn when you are stopped. Check your engine mounts carefully, a collapsed mount can shift one side of the engine down causing something such exhaust to vibrate. -- David Hunter http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387458&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 05:04 GMT I think you need a pair of experienced ears to track that down. Holding the brake and applying power should not hurt anything, in fact that is often done to test a transmission. I have done it up to 1600rpm for 10 seconds with no ill effects.You did nothing wrong. I would check the engine mounts and rear tranny mount, maybe something is rubbing ot vibrating where it should'nt David Hunter http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387293&rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 05:18 GMT At a stop there is no movement at the center support bearing or the tail shaft bushing. If it's a whining sound while stopped look elsewhere. Fluid level in tranny? Can it be reproduced while someone looks underhood? -- David Hunter http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387176&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 19:13 GMT Volvo recommends no additives. I doubt you will notice ant difference despite the claims. Do use a good quality synthetic though. -- David Hunter http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386863&rss=1 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 05:33 GMT It's actually very effective in rain, snow, sleet etc. The air coming out the defrost will be quite hot even though the AC is on and will easily prevent the build up of ice etc on the outside and remove any condensation on the inside. Any cars I have driven all do the same thing. -- David Hunter http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386607&rss=1 Mon, 16 Nov 2009 05:09 GMT Suggest you stop throwing parts at the problem and diagnose first. By the time you work your way up to the engine control computer it will cost you hundreds, far better to diagnose the problem and complete just one repair. Problem is either spark or fuel related. When no start occurs check for spark. Jumper fuel pumps and listen for them running then try to start. The results of these 2 simple tests will tell you a lot. Report back. -- David Hunter http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386605&rss=1 Mon, 16 Nov 2009 05:04 GMT Best to make up your own mind, you will never consensus here, it's like asking which is better Chev or Ford, Toyota or Nissan, Volvo or Audi. Why not go with what Volvo recommend: 10W30 in any synthetic. -- David Hunter http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386395&rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 05:43 GMT Wheel bearing, transmission tail shaft bushing, center of drive shaft bearing. Noises can be hard to identify sometimes. Get an experienced mechanic to go for a ride with you, let him drive. -- David Hunter http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386393&rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 05:37 GMT When a stain is seen under the car you need to investigate the source, guessing will not work. Do not move the car, get down, crawl under and look up to determine the source. Smell and yes even taste the liquid. -- David Hunter http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386391&rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 05:34 GMT Obviously a slow leak, not enough to register on the stick. I drove my 740 like that for a couple of years until I found a guy that had the rework parts. There info in the FAQ section on this. -- David Hunter http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386249&rss=1 Sat, 14 Nov 2009 16:05 GMT It may not have any effect on an O ring, the claim is that it works on the seals. Where do you see the oil at the distributor, inside? -- David Hunter http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386192&rss=1 Sat, 14 Nov 2009 05:59 GMT Oh boy you will get a lot of opinions on this one, everyone has their favorite oil along with a story to tell about it. I think any good quality 10W30 synthetic is best. As far as the leak at distributor is concerned any oil will leak past the shaft O ring. It is easily fixed. Some will say synthetics cause leaks, that's a long standing myth perhaps originating when synthetics first appeared. Some will swear that viscosity xxWxx is the only way to go. Unless you live in an extreme climate use what Volvo recommend, good old 10W30. Now I will sit back and watch all the answers, probably at least 20 or so. -- David Hunter http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386114&rss=1 Fri, 13 Nov 2009 23:02 GMT Art: I would express your expertise differently: Carving out your own niche. Going where no other man has gone. Doing what you love (very important). Sharing your wisdom and knowledge (another big one). As I ease into retirement I am asking myself, now that all the preparation part is done what do I really want to do with my life. So many things, to learn more about my interests and to see and experience more of the things I love, spend more time with grandchildren, travel a bit, build RC model airplanes and of course tinkering with cars. Often thought that it would be interesting to restore or at least fix up an older model classic luxury or sports car such as a Mercedes or Jaguar. But in the end I think it is my nature to be more of a generalist. -- David Hunter http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386108&rss=1 Fri, 13 Nov 2009 22:46 GMT Easy way to know if all is in order with engine other than checking fault codes. Measure the output of the O2 sensor. If voltage swings smartly within it's proper range I think that pretty much says that the engine is running about as efficiently as possible. -- David Hunter http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385967&rss=1 Fri, 13 Nov 2009 06:11 GMT Art: I stand corrected and remain in awe of your knowledge. Although I new of that "service point" I never used it (just jumpered from battery + to starter). Upon looking at the wiring diagram I have seen my error. Sure hope I did not create work or confusion for you Oscar. Story: Some years ago I was troubleshooting something on my 740 and used the above method forgetting that the key was on and car was in D. Well you know the rest. Fortunately being younger a more nimble I was able to chase after it, open door, jump in and mash the brakes just before it would have plowed into a neighbor's garage. I guess the service point is a better choice as the start interlock switch is still in the path. -- David Hunter http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385965&rss=1 Fri, 13 Nov 2009 06:03 GMT The mpg at idle, it is "0". If you idle for too long obviously it will pull down the average MPG. Why does it need warming up? Your car is "start and drive". Warming up a car is an old idea from long ago, more modern fuel injected computer controlled engines can be driven off immediatly. If the engine does run smoothly after starting there is something wrong which will surely affect mileage. Your 31 highway and 26 city sounds a bit unlikely, I have read of people claiming these kind of numbers but I think it is just the types who slow down on every hill, never ever exceed 50 MPH, turn key off coasting down hill etc etc along with bit of wishfull thinking, the kind of nut you never want to get behind. What method does your daughter use to calculate mileage? -- David Hunter http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385826&rss=1 Thu, 12 Nov 2009 18:16 GMT Special tool not needed at all. The rope trick is a very practical way to hold the crank while you loosen the nut. Not sure what clothesline is (my mother had wire to hang em up) but I use nylon rope about 1/4". -- David Hunter http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385823&rss=1 Thu, 12 Nov 2009 17:57 GMT Why go to the dealer? Any of the chain auto parts store will read a code for free. Advance is the one I go to. -- David Hunter http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1385735&rss=1 Thu, 12 Nov 2009 04:51 GMT Top right, shortcuts to FAQ's. Wander around in their for a while, there is lots to learn including how to read your codes. -- David Hunter http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385590&rss=1 Wed, 11 Nov 2009 18:25 GMT As implied the by other posters you must correctly engage the end of the cam with the distributor. Close examination shows that there is a slight offset to the two parts. When its engaged correctly it will slide together fine. Lube the O ring. -- David Hunter http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385552&rss=1 Wed, 11 Nov 2009 16:25 GMT It's on it's way to the pan. Taking the cover off is relatively easy and you may find it. If it is magnetic (and I doubt that) it may be easy to retrieve. I usually use a hemostat for such things. If its unretrievable I doubt it will do any harm in the crankcase. It will just go to the bottom and stay there. It cannot circulate as there is a screen and filter in it's path. When I remove a seal I am not dainty, just use a common screwdriver and tear it out being carefull not to damage either surface. The outer seal casing will bend quite easily. Tryng to bring it out straight and undamaged is not usually possible. -- David Hunter http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385475&rss=1 Wed, 11 Nov 2009 04:56 GMT Not sure exactly where it is placed on your model. The IAC bypasses air around the throttle body to control idle. Air hoses in and out are about an inch diameter. There is info in the FAQ about cleaning. -- David Hunter http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385347&rss=1 Tue, 10 Nov 2009 14:18 GMT Nothing you have said indicates a rear end problem. If there is a lack of power that is more likely a problem up front. Rear ends get noisy but do not cause "lack of pulling power". Can you be more specific about pulling power? Does it shift through the gears OK? Are shift point rpm's higher than normal? Are you applying more pedal (ie more torque) to get moving? -- David Hunter http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385342&rss=1 Tue, 10 Nov 2009 14:06 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/