http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=23448 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 05:58 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 05:58 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Hello Travis, Everyone else has pretty much covered all the necessary details except for one. In replacing the oil separator box about a year or two ago, I used an aftermarket unit purchased from FCP. They look nearly identical to the originals. In fact, I replaced two boxes in two of the 93's we own. Despite the boxes looking nearly exactly the same as original, both boxes leaked from the vertical solvent welded seam. When they leak, the oil ooze trail is similar to that of a rear main seal leak. I believe Randy Starkie suggested just cleaning out the old box and not replacing it. If you're bent on installing the new box, I'd check it for leaks (plug the holes and fill it with water) in the kitchen sink first. Be very suspicious of the aftermarket units. Both of mine leaked after I checked 'em in the sink. Marty Wolfson http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386792&rss=1 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:10 GMT Hi Ryan, Painting the new eyebrows really isn't an option, unless you really know how to properly prepare the plastic. I'm afraid of messing with the new eyebrows cause if I screw that up, then I have nothing. The plastic has a very shiny "chrome" coating. For the time being, I'm leaving well enough alone. Marty http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384843&rss=1 Sun, 8 Nov 2009 03:45 GMT Hi Bob, Actually the ts eyebrows fit OK. The workmanship of the DJ Auto units is pretty poor, so the eyebrows and turn signal assemblies don't really line up too well with the space allotted for the turn signals along with the body lines. I guess little stuff. The eyebrows are a "cheaper" plastic than the original Volvo eyebrows and scratch if you look at them crosseyed. I'm still thinking of something there cause the old eyebrows def don't fit without the finagling mentioned Marty http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384842&rss=1 Sun, 8 Nov 2009 03:43 GMT You know Jessie, I think I should have listened to you. Marty http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384444&rss=1 Fri, 6 Nov 2009 13:04 GMT Gary, You're way ahead of me probably having done similar auto wiring to get your theknow-how you've touted. I'm very disappointed with the DJ. They are quite cheap and if I had to do it over again, I think I'd just purchase new lenses, hack the mounting screws off, replace the lenses and jb weld new studs in place. But I've come this far so...... what's done is done, even to the extent that I think I'll redo that which I thought was done. I notice you didn't mention fusing. Right now, I've run a 12 ga wire to my relay and power mounting bar buss (same mounting plate you mention) sans a fuse. I figured I'd distribute power to the relays with two fuses. Now I'm thinking of going back and tearing into the alternator to power bus wire and installing a fuse. Probably should have run back to original power buss adjacent to the battery to eliminate any worries about running power from the alternator. To the neophyte, this is a daunting project, with different ga wires of diff colors, the diff terminal connectors and plugs. If I had to do it over again, I think I'd just splice into the existing headlight plug! I'm running out of heat shrink tubing and yes, insofar as possible, I've run all my wiring in that corrugated sheathing. Marty http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384443&rss=1 Fri, 6 Nov 2009 13:02 GMT Hi Tony, I just used a ring type connector (soldered and crimped) for the connection at B+ at the alternator, covered any of the connections with heat shrink tubing and ran all that in the corrugated wire sheathing up to the power "box" and relay bank that I mounted on a bar vertically on the sheetmetal between the headlamp and radiator. Keep in mind that I used the same 8" +/- mounting bar found on late model 240's that has the small black box power takeoff and relay found adjacent to the battery. The wiring from the alternator to this black box is neatly zip tied to the trans cooler lines in a couple of places. I can't post some pics, but I can e-mail. I'm still in the midst of this and am a little betwixt and between on the fuse business. I have the little monkeys so I may install them. Should be done this weekend and I'll shoot you some pics. Marty http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384337&rss=1 Thu, 5 Nov 2009 21:23 GMT Hi Tom, Check your electrical connector for the AMM. It might be getting crusty. Marty http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384082&rss=1 Wed, 4 Nov 2009 12:30 GMT Hi Christopher, Nope, it's not my spare. I had three more in the bulb bin. This one actually came out of the spare underhood light assembly I snagged at the JY prob a few years ago. You're still welcome to it. I prob have a 15w, too. Marty http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384081&rss=1 Wed, 4 Nov 2009 12:28 GMT Hi Bruce, I'm glad I have someone like you looking over my shoulder........... There go the fuses. One less thing to bother with. Marty http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383914&rss=1 Tue, 3 Nov 2009 19:28 GMT Hi Tony, Unless I "read" Dave wrong, he explained that the current draw from the relay for "triggering" power was so small that the bulb out sensor wasn't affected. I'd say that probably the easiest setup is to just eliminate the Original 9004 harness and splice into the H4 pigtails. As I "waddle" through this, I'll keep you posted. Marty http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383870&rss=1 Tue, 3 Nov 2009 16:38 GMT Hi Tony, I bet the existing wire is adequate but........ I'm off to the JY today for a few items. I'm going to use 14 ga wire which should be fine - 12 ga wire is kind of diff to work with. I have the relays, two wp fuse containers with 20a minis and I've just finally hacked my way through those miserable spinning mounting bolts and nuts on the old unit. No dremel - it died about a year ago, so I drilled through the center of the bolts and broke em out with vise grips, pia for sure. When I removed the headlight assemblies, the lenses fell off! Anyway, just need a mounting bar and power bus shown in Dave Shannon's site and I can get to work. I'm going to take power from the alternator and use the headlight wires from the passenger side for my trigger. I'll abandon the 9004 connector on the driver's headlight. I even have some of the proper brown relay 5 pin connectors but I don't think I'll have enough room to use them as it's tight just above the windshield washer jug. When I get this thing done, I'll post some pictures. Marty Wolfson http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383864&rss=1 Tue, 3 Nov 2009 16:11 GMT Hello Christopher, Had an extra in my bulb bin. Give me your address (you can use my e-mail) and I'll send it to you. It's actually (I can barely read it) Osram 12v 10w K5619-n4g. I think the e-mail icons work at the moment. Marty Wolfson (Oleseahorse) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383512&rss=1 Mon, 2 Nov 2009 00:44 GMT John, That c-clamp might work. Alternately, he might be able to get a pair of needlenose vice grips on the plate and the underside of the OD casting. I just took a look at my spare tranny in the garage and if the bolt towards the engine is broken off, there is a little room to clamp the plate. I used my needlenose vice grips, and they tightened well but stuck out at right angles to the transmission about 5", the length of the tool. However, the rearward bolt is framed with the section of the plate that offers no such opportunity due to the transmission case casting. I'm not a vice grip expert, but I suspect there may be a mini pair that could be sacrificed "forever", if the broken bolt is the forward one. Good luck with this one. Marty Wolfson http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383129&rss=1 Sat, 31 Oct 2009 01:17 GMT Hi Tony, Just got Jeff at FCP. He let me use the e-bay auction for $250, then I trick or treated for an additional 10% off. Pull the trigger. We can both stumble around mounting these Marty http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383037&rss=1 Fri, 30 Oct 2009 19:24 GMT Thanks Dave, Sounds good. I'm ordering the units today. Marty Wolfson http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383020&rss=1 Fri, 30 Oct 2009 18:17 GMT Thanks Ryan, Simple, wonder why I didn't think of that? Hmmmmmmmm, Marty Wolfson http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383019&rss=1 Fri, 30 Oct 2009 18:16 GMT Hello All, I can't see properly anymore out of my yellowed headlight lenses and I'm contemplated purchasing the E-codes. I've polished the lenses a bunch of times and the yellowing seems to come back worse than ever. The car has 280K. Please tell me if you think I will be able to use the headlight and turnsignal eyebrows from the Classic with the E-codes. Thanks all, Marty Wolfson http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382959&rss=1 Fri, 30 Oct 2009 13:01 GMT Hi Cauley, I've never replaced a door, but I've replaced hinges. A few things I (think) I can tell you. Obviously, you'll have to remove the fiber door panel (let us know if you've never done that) then you'll have to disconnect any speaker or door lock wiring and push it back into the accordion boot between the doors. I'd use a floor jack to support the outgoing door as well as the incoming door. I would suggest that you leave the old hinges attached at the B pillar, remove the old door at the hinges, and replace. Again, use the floor jack to support the doors cause they are very heavy. I suspect it's not a terribly difficult job, but please let us all know what (trouble?) you get into with the job. Marty Wolfson http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382353&rss=1 Tue, 27 Oct 2009 21:32 GMT Hi Mike, Here's some interesting reading from an old e-mail I copied and pasted. I'm not sure where it came from, however. Working on a timing belt change, I've got everything off (used the counter hold tool for crank shaft bolt), and cleaned off the front of the engine. I'm also going to replace a bunch of bushing w/ the blue poly's from IPD Questions: 1) Is now the best time to replace the water pump, or should I put the new timing belt, sprockets and cover back on first? Do your water pump now while you have the rest of the stuff out of the way. If nothing else, it facilitates cleaning the old pump gasket off of the block. 2) Is it really necessary to remove the seal carrier to replace the crank and intermediate shaft seals? I had planned on using the bolts and an old seal and/or pvc pipe to drive in the new seal. No, I recommend against pulling the seal carrier. In pulling the carrier you will run the risk of tearing the oil pan gasket at the bottom. Unless it is actually leaking leave it in place. 3) Same question for the cam shaft - what do I gain by removing the valve cover? Aside from changing out the valve cover gasket you will gain nothing from it. The front cam seal is held in by the front cam bearing cover and not the valve cover, although you would have to pull the valve cover first to gain access to the upper cam bearing journal. Still, it is not neccesary. 4) Cleaning the shafts - In front of the existing seals everything looks pretty clean. a) Shouldn't the area under the seal be pretty clean too? b) What kind of effort/attention is needed here? c) Even if it looks good, should I still use some emery cloth (is that the same as wet dry sandpaper? d) I've got some 400, 600, 1500, 2000, and 2500 wet dry sandpaper - are any one of those ok to use)? No, I would not use anything there other than some brake spray clean. Pop the seals out, clean the entire front of the engine off and let it dry and then install your new seals. Once the seals are installed do not spray anymore cleaner on it. I have seen brake spray clean (mostly acetone these days) adversely effect cam/crank seals in the past. Use a parts brush to loosen the crap and crud that collects on the front of the engine and the spray cleaner to blast it all away and make sure you put a drip pan under the front of the engine. Btw - To remove the old seals, I bought a "dentist pick" type tool, my plan is to hook it into the rubber and pull out, then clean the shaft if neccesary. Thanks in advance! While hooking the seal sounds like a good idea I have found that placing a small to medium sized slot head screw driver in between the cam shaft and the seal and levering it out in one shot to work much better. Just stuff it in about a 1/4" at the 12:00 position, this will deform the seal if done properly, and then just push down on it and it should pop right out. I have done literally hundreds of these seals this way and have yet to scratch a cam doing it. Your only real concern here is in pushing the screwdriver in too far and possibly scratching the aluminum housing that the seals are pressed into, so don't do that. I don't know what kind of seals you bought but factory Volvo seals are the best and last time I checked, which was yesterday, they are made by CFW, not Elring. I have used the Elrings in the past and while they can make some very nice stuff like their head gaskets and such, their oil seals leave much to be desired. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381855&rss=1 Sun, 25 Oct 2009 19:17 GMT Hi Mike, I wouldn't monkey around with that seal carrier unless you absolutely had to. Clean things off and you may find your leak is coming from the valve cover and no seal replacement is necessary. If you have to replace seals, I'd only use Volvo from Tasca. If you've never done seals before, and they're not too hard, I'd spend a lot of time on the board reviewing old posts, or get an old helper that's done it before. Also the front main seal tool is the hot setup. PVC pushers can work but aren't half as good. Marty Wolfson http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381848&rss=1 Sun, 25 Oct 2009 19:01 GMT Hi Mike, All the comments above are appropriate. I'd add one thing, however. I've had some trouble removing the oil separator box and in turn re-installation after the two bolts have been removed. The wire harness - must be a good inch thick - travels in the space below the intake manifold and oil separator and tends to impede the box's upward movement. You'll see that the box has a little spout at the bottom that has to clear the edge of the block. You really have to push up on that harness to give you enough room to first go up, then swivel the box out. Don't break off that spout. Once you've done it, you'll know how to do it forever, but there is some manhandling involved. In addition, as other's commented, don't disturb that pipe/tube that travels to the oil sump. Don't buy a new box. Clean out the old. Randy's got some directions if you search. Marty Wolfson http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381847&rss=1 Sun, 25 Oct 2009 18:55 GMT Hi David, I don't recall where I read this, maybe the FAQ's but to check for air leaks, I took my shop vac and had it on blow, duct taped it up to the exhaust and blew away. I needed to replace #1 exhaust man gasket as it was leaking profuselly. Also identified a tiny leak at one of the exhaust pipe connections. Marty Wolfson http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381636&rss=1 Sat, 24 Oct 2009 17:01 GMT Hi Jim, I'm glad to hear you're back in the saddle again. Yup, Art helped me with diagnosis of fuse 8 blowing. In my 93, as I recall, on the fused side (right) of the fuse box, I had a double green and a single green coming into the available spades. I separated the double (you may not need to) and individually connected them to the spade looking for the problem circuit. As Art mentioned, it turned out to be the delay timer for the courtesy light. In my case, I removed the offender and solved the problem of blowing fuse 8. If you isolate each of the three circuits, you'll get a good idea of where your prob lies. Good luck, Marty Wolfson http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381249&rss=1 Thu, 22 Oct 2009 15:29 GMT Throw a bunch of stones in there, or nuts and bolts. I've always used hot water and detergent, but the phorphoric acid is also a good idea. Shake, shake, shake, Marty Wolfson http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380358&rss=1 Sun, 18 Oct 2009 23:06 GMT Hello Willie, Ted Maeurer had been keeping the registry. He goes by Irollturbo and if you check out his profile, there will be a contact e-mail. Good luck with your classic and clean up your fuses, particularly the 60A one in the fuse assembly adjacent to the battery, especially since you're in Maine. Marty http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377142&rss=1 Sun, 4 Oct 2009 15:59 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/