http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=22644 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:39 GMT Sun, 22 Nov 2009 00:39 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. My 1990 240 has an intermittent stall. It is NOT the AMM or throttle position switch as they are recently new (chasing down OBD I codes). I see in the FAQ the FP relay is a likely cause. . The existing relay has p/n 3523608, which matches FCP Groton, IPD and VLVWorld. However, Autohausaz says that is superseded by p/n 1347603. Are both p/n's OK? -- Jim (90 244DL 175K miles) turbo sways w/poly, front struts & bushings, OD wiring, downpipe, OEM hitch, remote-locks. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1000856&rss=1 Mon, 5 Sep 2005 10:41 GMT The key lock switch and the button push-pull switch are different switches in the 91. Either one will trigger the relay. The wiring diagram in Bentley shows the separate sets of contacts (#190 & #191 at locations K1 & L1). -- Jim (90 244DL 175K miles) turbo sways w/poly, front struts & bushings, OD wiring, downpipe, OEM hitch, remote-locks. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=986843&rss=1 Mon, 25 Jul 2005 00:49 GMT I considered adding a trans-cooler when I installed a hitch on my 240, since all the tow bar websites insist on it. But from a hydraulic standpoint, it may be better to add the new cooler in parallel with the existing radiator cooler rather than in series (that is: connect the lower line (into the radiator) to the new cooler inlet, and connect the upper line (return from the radiator) to the new cooler outlet, using Tee fittings. . Reasons: 1) as stated earlier, there is very little pressure in the supply line to the radiator. If this small pressure has to push fluid through the new cooler in series, the amount of flow will be reduced, perhaps to below the minimum needed for trans cooling. 2) By adding the new cooler in parallel, flow resistance is reduced, which encourages a greater amount of flow. As long as the new cooler is sized to drop the temperature enough, you&#146;ll end up with just what you want: more flow at a cooler temperature. . I&#146;d suggest including one valve on the outlet of the new cooler. For the winter when you don&#146;t want to overcool the trans fluid, just close this valve and you&#146;re back using the original radiator cooler only. Also, the new cooler stays pressurized and gets no air bubbles. You don&#146;t want TWO valves for the new cooler (inlet & outlet) otherwise it might cause the new cooler to leak if both valves were closed and the fluid now trapped in the cooler expanded from heat. My $0.02 . Also, do a search--> someone posted on a trans fluid temperature gauge setup. Good luck. -- Jim (90 244DL 175K miles) turbo sways w/poly, front struts & bushings, OD wiring, downpipe, OEM hitch, remote-locks. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=980852&rss=1 Sat, 9 Jul 2005 01:46 GMT I had to replace the downpipe (cracked at the Y) and replaced the bushing with the exhaust removed. Made the pocket bushing torque easy. Perhaps the way to go for the cost of two gaskets & some PB blaster. -- Jim (90 244DL 175K miles) turbo sways w/poly, front struts & bushings, OD wiring, downpipe, OEM hitch, remote-locks. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=980824&rss=1 Sat, 9 Jul 2005 00:43 GMT http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=951062 Attached post shows failed passenger motor mount with *NO* oil changes in between (kid away at college) -- Jim (90 244DL 175K miles) turbo sways w/poly, front struts & bushings, OD wiring, downpipe, OEM hitch, remote-locks. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=970766&rss=1 Sat, 11 Jun 2005 04:29 GMT Same problem on my 1990. Wipers run fine, but would not &#147;park.&#148; They would stop by moving the stalk switch to OFF. Took the round cover off the wiper motor gearbox, and found the white plastic cam was cracked all the way through, and not turning with the gear shaft. See this photo: <img src='/IMAGELIB/images/3701.jpg'/> No repair that I could see, except for replacing the entire assembly. A new Ronak awaits installation. Do a search; there's info on the plug connectors slipping back, advice on cleaning out matted leaves that may be blocking the drain ports in the fenders, and the use of motor shaft sealants & grommets. Good luck. -- Jim (90 244DL 175K miles) turbo sways w/poly, front struts & bushings, OD wiring, downpipe, OEM hitch, remote-locks. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=962112&rss=1 Sat, 21 May 2005 03:48 GMT The horn has 12V to it normally. All the horn button does is close a path to ground. On my '90, there are several circuit grounds (including the horn) connected to a screw on the bottom left of the steering column (under the plastic covers). Could it be loose? Just a guess (is anything OTHER than the horn malfunctioning?) -- Jim (90 244DL 175K miles) turbo sways w/poly, front struts & bushings, OD wiring, downpipe, OEM hitch, remote-locks. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=956616&rss=1 Sat, 7 May 2005 04:01 GMT From &#147;Strut replacement for Novices&#148; http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=769381 (See above post for illustration) 6) heavy gauge wire/rod to hang strut outside wheel well 6a) 18&#148; long piece of 3/16&#148; threaded rod, described in 700-900 FAQ. I left the described 1&#148; tail (that gets fed through the eyelet in the swaybar) longer than that, in case I wanted to lengthen it a bit..." ------------------------------------------------ I needed TWO of the above rods to prevent the strut tower from stressing the brake lines. Loosening the brake line bracket precluded pulling the caliper. I also used a rope from the lower fender bracket in front of the wheel well to prevent the tower tipping rearward. -- Jim (90 244DL 175K miles) turbo sways w/poly, front struts & bushings, OD wiring, downpipe, OEM hitch, remote-locks. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=955256&rss=1 Wed, 4 May 2005 04:10 GMT I second pushing the wire carefully out through the shifter box. It&#146;s a nightmare to replace the grommet if it pops out. If you want to replace the sleeved connector to the solenoid wire, check a local junkyard. The turn signal/running light wire harness on the passenger side front is an exact match for the OD solenoid connector (the wire on the driver&#146;s side is larger). Look inside the Molex connector below the back of the headlight capsule. -- Jim (90 244DL 175K miles) turbo sways w/poly, front struts & bushings, OD wiring, downpipe, OEM hitch, remote-locks. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=953331&rss=1 Fri, 29 Apr 2005 02:37 GMT My local library recently got a subscription to AllData, which I gather many shops use for service bulletins and detailed procedures on many cars. I found there and printed a pictorial list of all the ground connections on the 240. Very helpful. -- Jim (90 244DL 175K miles) turbo sways w/poly, front struts & bushings, OD wiring, downpipe, OEM hitch, remote-locks. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=952528&rss=1 Wed, 27 Apr 2005 06:53 GMT Some good help here: http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=769381 Strut Replacement for Novices 200 1986 posted by darmstrong on Fri Mar 12 04:08 UTC 2004 -- Jim (90 244DL 175K miles) turbo sways w/poly, front struts & bushings, OD wiring, downpipe, OEM hitch, remote-locks. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=951500&rss=1 Mon, 25 Apr 2005 07:49 GMT From the dealer, Volvo mounts were $34 each. ScanTech's were $17, which the dealer *did* credit me under warranty. For the downside risk & peace of mind, use the Volvo mounts. I posted earlier on use of the diesel mounts. They *will* fit, but more vibration is likely. -- Jim (90 244DL 175K miles) turbo sways w/poly, front struts & bushings, OD wiring, downpipe, OEM hitch, remote-locks. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=951075&rss=1 Sun, 24 Apr 2005 00:34 GMT Attached pictures of a 9-month old ScanTech passenger side motor mount, after removal. With it in, the clearance to the oil filter was down to 1/8-inch. Much less engine vibration now...go figure ============================== This ScanTech mount was in service for 9-months. Even supporting no weight it is still deformed. <img src='/IMAGELIB/images/4810.jpg'/> Originally in line, the mounting bolts are now offset at least 3/4-inch. <img src='/IMAGELIB/images/4811.jpg'/> So guess what actually supported the motor?... . Check the wear mark on the alternator bracket... and thanks to the turbo swaybar!! The new Volvo mount is in the left background <img src='/IMAGELIB/images/4812.jpg'/> -- Jim (90 244DL 175K miles) turbo sways w/poly, front struts & bushings, OD wiring, downpipe, OEM hitch, remote-locks. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=951062&rss=1 Sat, 23 Apr 2005 23:29 GMT I think there are two issues. First is the bulb differences, which the product at your link may solve. The second is whether you want the bulb-failure sensor light on when you&#146;re using the trailer. Some like that, as it may show the trailer lights are on (or at least a left/right current imbalance exists). . Others want it to stay off. To keep it off, the trailer light power needs to come from somewhere NOT served by the bulb-failure sensor. I used a Hidden Hitch #31824 (link below), which takes only relay signals from the rear lights. I took trailer-light power from my unused power-antenna lead in the trunk (on a 1990 244), instead of a new dedicated line from the battery. It tested fine on 5 x 8 UHauls, with both incandescent and LED trailer lights at full brightness. . Hung the unit from the wire bundle between the spare tire & the tailights. It includes SkotchLok connectors, and 4-feet of wire to the trailer plug (flat-4). The signal leads reach into the left tailight, and a long lead is provided to go across to the right turn signal (unless you can find that wire in the bundle on the left). http://www.autoaccessconnect.com/untalicowipo.html Good Luck! -- Jim (90 244DL 175K miles) turbo sways w/poly, front struts & bushings, OD wiring, downpipe, OEM hitch, remote-locks. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=950338&rss=1 Fri, 22 Apr 2005 03:17 GMT Thanks for the detailed descriptions, and suggested sealants. It will save any do-overs. -- Jim (90 244DL 175K miles) turbo sways w/poly, front struts & bushings, OD wiring, downpipe, OEM hitch, remote-locks. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=949302&rss=1 Wed, 20 Apr 2005 01:55 GMT I thought that I read on the Board here something about different shaft sizes for newer and older 240 windshield wiper motors and the need to use the correct sized seal for the hole in the firewall to avoid rain leakage. I can&#146;t seem to find anything about this on a search. Was this the seal for the wiper MOTOR shaft, or the shaft for the wiper itself? Bentley and Haynes are silent on this. I'm replacing the wiper motor with a new Ronak. Any experiences on this, or is it just another senior moment? -- Jim (90 244DL 175K miles) turbo sways w/poly, front struts & bushings, OD wiring, downpipe, OEM hitch, remote-locks. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=948528&rss=1 Mon, 18 Apr 2005 14:45 GMT Thanks for the quick and extensive help. I have no plans to add a turbo, so I think I&#146;ll bite the bullet for both Volvo OEM gas-engine motor mounts. The car will be away at college soon, and better off to be ScanTech-free. -- Jim (90 244DL 175K miles) turbo sways w/poly, front struts & bushings, OD wiring, downpipe, OEM hitch, remote-locks. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=947098&rss=1 Thu, 14 Apr 2005 16:47 GMT Just returned a NAPA gold filter. It is 3/4-inch taller than the Bosch or Volvo filter, and hit my motor mount. Turns out my 9-month old ScanTech mount has failed. Check carefully for clearance under the filter. -- Jim (90 244DL 170K miles) turbo sways w/poly, front struts & bushings, OD wiring, downpipe. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=946469&rss=1 Wed, 13 Apr 2005 03:04 GMT DITTO the PITA grommet re-installation in the shifter box. Avoid like the plague. In 0ct.'03, my 1990 had bare copper up to the wire terminal in the connector above the driveshaft. To match the existing connector half, find the passenger side turn signal Molex connector at a PnP (the driver's side is larger diameter). Search "OD wiring" in the RWD forum for extensive writeups. -- Jim (90 244DL 170K miles) turbo sways w/poly, front struts & bushings, OD wiring, downpipe. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=946465&rss=1 Wed, 13 Apr 2005 02:53 GMT I&#146;m surprised to consider possible reversal of the mounts. A reputable indy shop did the install. My passenger mount *does* have the locator button visible on the edge of the bottom bracket. The driver&#146;s side mount is supposed to have the offset mounting bolts, and the rubber locator pin in the center? Is that right? Comparing new OEM and ScanTech passenger-side mounts at the dealer (using the Charmin pinch-test), the Volvo mount felt slightly softer. This leads me to consider the diesel mount, instead of the Volvo OEM. -- Jim (90 244DL 170K miles) turbo sways w/poly, front struts & bushings, OD wiring, downpipe, OEM hitch. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=946194&rss=1 Tue, 12 Apr 2005 17:18 GMT All three were done. Driver's side looks OK. Didn't check the trans mount. The replacement was done by an indy shop, so I didn't see what the previous failed mounts looked like. If needed, I'll do this replacement. The ScanTech mounts were from the Volvo dealer. He offered a new mount under warranty. The FCP Groton diesel mount (URL below) appears the same, but is it too thick? http://www.fcpgroton.com/images/1272346.jpg -- Jim (90 244DL 170K miles) turbo sways w/poly, front struts & bushings, OD wiring, downpipe. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=946057&rss=1 Tue, 12 Apr 2005 09:06 GMT On the passenger side engine mount (ScanTech--9 months old): 1) there's only 1/8-inch clearance to a new OEM Volvo oil filter, and 2) surface of mount is bulging and 3) the mounting bolts are now offset by perhaps 3/4-inch (engine side lower than support bracket side). Does this look normal, or is it failing? The gap between the cross-member and oil pan appears to be even--about 3/8 to 1/2 inch all across If it is failing, any concerns with installing a diesel engine mount ONLY on the passenger side? <img src='/IMAGELIB/images/4763.jpg'/> -- Jim (90 244DL N/A 170K miles) turbo sways w/poly, front struts & bushings, OD wiring, downpipe, OEM hitch. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=946054&rss=1 Tue, 12 Apr 2005 08:42 GMT In a 1990 with automatic trans, the shifter box is just above the u-joint between the transmission and the driveshaft. The white OD relay wire to the solenoid wire comes out the front through a tight grommet. Ditto the lack of working room underneath. Since mine had bare wire right up to the connector terminal, I felt it should also be replaced. It turns out the Molex connector to the passenger side front turn signal/parking lights from the junkyard contains two of the exactly matching connectors to the OD solenoid wire (the driver&#146;s side turn signal has larger diameter). However, pulling new wire through the grommet sent the job down a black hole. The grommet popped out of its seat, and had to disassemble the neutral start switch and the shift lever position plate. This only slightly improved access to reinstall the grommet. If you get the new connector, recommend undoing the wire connector inside the car on the passenger side of the transmission hump, feed the wire down below the car until you have room to splice in the new connector, then pull it back up through the shifter box. Be sure to add sleeve material before you splice, and DON&#146;T plan to pull a butt connector through the grommet. My $0.02. -- Jim (90 244DL 170K miles) turbo sways w/poly, front struts & bushings, OD wiring, downpipe. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=944343&rss=1 Thu, 7 Apr 2005 21:27 GMT http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/index.htm?id=902798 Short answer: with much difficulty. Check the above thread. Lots of info, pictures, etc. -- Jim (90 244DL 170K miles) turbo sways w/poly, front struts & bushings, OD wiring, downpipe. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=942410&rss=1 Sun, 3 Apr 2005 22:33 GMT One other thing -- . The OEM hitch receiver (2-in square) ended up not quite level, but pointed slightly upward, though it does clear the bumper (barely). To do it again I would use washers with the four M10 bolts to shim the receiver downward. . Also, for the OEM hitch (curved pipe; not straight like the DrawTite hitch), the plastic fascia piece covering the muffler just needs a hole cut in it. I started with a notch and kept enlarging it. Instead, try to leave it connected across the bottom; it would help the support brackets and the looks. -- Jim (90 244DL 170K miles) turbo sways w/poly, front struts & bushings, OD wiring, downpipe. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=942349&rss=1 Sun, 3 Apr 2005 20:11 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/