http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=22205 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 05:17 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 05:17 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. check to see if fuse #3 is bad - twirl it or replace with new. it worked for me after advice here from others. -- oceanre 91 240 wagon 292k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1191759&rss=1 Mon, 18 Jun 2007 13:38 GMT i agree about not getting to wrapped in stocking up on stuff 'just in case, except i'd get a copy of bentley's and put it on your nightstand. read a chapter each night until you are familier with the lay of the land. then if something sounds amiss or goes south, you can ask intelligent questions here on the brickboard you wont be too afraid to tackle it yourself (with help from this board). i am amazed as to sheer depth of wisdom and encouragement found here on a daily basis. God, i'm glad my dad bought a new 142 back in '68 - i learned to drive on that car and have had volvos ever since. have to update my sig, my '91 245 will shortly have 300k on it (guess i'll have to settle for the new decal instead of the medallion). -- oceanre 91 240 wagon 292k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1190048&rss=1 Tue, 12 Jun 2007 04:02 GMT dave, i'm watching this thread with bated breath. my '91 245's parking brake didnt have an adjustment wheel either. maybe the later/new models didnt have the adjustment wheel? i have the parking brake kit from fcp groton but havent had time to tackle it so i dont know if i'll have the same problem as you. i wonder maybe the cable is the only adjustment to get those shoes as 'collapsed' as possible in order to slip the rotor on without any binding. however, i always thought there should be a bit of drag on the rotor but that improves a bit as the shoes are wear down. have you tried driving it for a few miles to see if it improves enough to allow the rotor to spin fairly freely? -- oceanre 91 240 wagon 292k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1190044&rss=1 Tue, 12 Jun 2007 03:45 GMT dave, i'm watching this thread with bated breath. my '91 245's parking brake didnt have an adjustment wheel either. maybe the later/new models didnt have the adjustment wheel? i have the parking brake kit from fcp groton but havent had time to tackle it so i dont know if i'll have the same problem as you. i wonder maybe the cable is the only adjustment to get those shoes as 'collapsed' as possible in order to slip the rotor on without any binding. however, i always thought there should be a bit of drag on the rotor but that improves a bit as the shoes are wear down. have you tried driving it for a few miles to see if it improves enough to allow the rotor to spin fairly freely? -- oceanre 91 240 wagon 292k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1190043&rss=1 Tue, 12 Jun 2007 03:45 GMT my wife borrowed my brother's '91 honda accord (4 door) and was shocked she couldnt make a u turn on our street without hitting the curb. she had to make a 3 point turn. with our 245's excellent turning radius she's stopped complaining when she has to take 'the old wagon' to the store. -- oceanre 91 240 wagon 292k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1188593&rss=1 Wed, 6 Jun 2007 18:52 GMT looking at the diagram from the green book on brakes (page 24) which i downloaded from AdamBC's site (with kind thanks) the part is numbered '33' but since there is no nomenclature guide to this diagram i am still at a lose. i guess i'll print out the diagram, head down the the stealership, close my eyes and bend over. have a great and productive weekend everyone. -- oceanre 91 240 wagon 292k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1187705&rss=1 Sun, 3 Jun 2007 13:48 GMT i won't bore you with the details, lets just say make sure your parking brake shoes and hardware are out of the way when you bang a stripped wheel stud out of the hub! after the dust settled, i found a broken part that didnt come with the fcp groton parking brake hardware kit. the part that broke is the metal bracket that is connected to the parking brake cable (where it comes out of the tube into the interior of the drum itself). 2 pieces are joined together with a small welded rivet=like pin and another small piece fits into the middle of this 2 piece bracket. this is the gizmo that makes the parking brake shoes expand and contract. the whole mess is attached to the cable end with a small metal pin. well, the small welded rivet thing broke so now i have 2 halves (which should be connected) and i cant find the part online and to make matters worse i dont even know what the hell it's called! anyone know what it's called so i dont sound like a complete idiot when i'm talking to a parts guy? better yet, anyone have one and is willing to part with it for a bit of spare change? i took out all the parking brake shoes/hardware on that wheel so no big deal except i have to remember not to use the parking brake until new parts come in and are installed. living on flat long island, i dont think i've ever used my parking brake but i know at inspection time the guy will yank on it and and find it doesnt work, thus failing me (kinda of like seeing an over eager inspector pull out his headlight aiming kit he spent $450 on from the snap-on guy years ago - they have to use it to justify it's expense). anyway, thanks in advance. -- oceanre 91 240 wagon 292k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1187647&rss=1 Sun, 3 Jun 2007 04:47 GMT sorry - my post should have included a shameless plug for fcp groton. that's where i got my rotors (hence the reference to Connecticut sales tax). Hope you dont have to pay duty. -- oceanre 91 240 wagon 292k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1184894&rss=1 Tue, 22 May 2007 11:50 GMT hi dave - cant help you on the groove but i can recommend brembo vented as replacement for your front rotors. this is the first time i opted for brake rotors from a mailorder company and had visions of brake shudder, re-doing the brake job, etc. imagine my surprise when after installing them with some new/leftover oem pads from my last volvo they were shudder and squeal free. all i had done before instalation was hose them down with brakecleen and spray the back of the pads with permatex brake quiet goop (the blue stuff). if you need 5-10k out of them, i'd just spend the $70 for both, install them and forget about them. you wont pay CT sales tax and shipping (at least to me here on Long Island) was cheap. Front brakes are too vital to your safety to cut corners. Good luck. -- oceanre 91 240 wagon 292k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1184893&rss=1 Tue, 22 May 2007 11:48 GMT sounds eerily like the new blower motor i got from ipd last summer. the ground and power feeds were too short and i had to us butt connectors to put extensions on to them. 6 months later on a night the temp got down to 17 degrees F, the blower motor quit. not having an indoor/heated garage, i took the car to a mechanic who charged me $150 to disassemble the center console and replaced my butt connections with soldered joints. at least i didnt have to pay to replace the blower motor but it did put me off ipd. their catalog helps me identify parts I buy from fcp groton. -- oceanre 91 240 wagon 292k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1183999&rss=1 Fri, 18 May 2007 02:12 GMT watching this asshole drive makes me thing the phrase 'where are all the cops when you need one' is pretty much universal. -- oceanre 91 240 wagon 292k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1182663&rss=1 Sat, 12 May 2007 14:18 GMT i made 2 orders last thursday on my brother's credit card (he owed me) so billing was his address, shipping was mine. late friday he calls me to tell me he got 2 email confirmation notices from fcpgroton that both shipments went but he noticed they went to the wrong zipcode (although my printed receipts show my correct zip codes). i called them up and since it was after 5pm on a friday and they dont open 'til 8am monday, they wont know of the screw-up until 4 days after the order was made. hey, this wont end my life but it would be nice if they at least could take a phone call on saturdays to tell the shipper to divert to the correct address. yedah, they are a family business but i dont think customer service on a saturday would be too much to ask keeping in mind the volume of internet and ebay business they do. -- oceanre 91 240 wagon 292k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1181213&rss=1 Sun, 6 May 2007 21:12 GMT performance products did away with all the exploded views and pictorial listings for the mb 190e a couple of years back - all the 109e bulletin boards were screaming for everyone to save their old catalogs. now that ipd seems to be 'phasing' out the helpful pictures and hints for the 240, i'm kinda getting the hint i'm driving dinosaurs! (wilma, i'm home!). -- oceanre 91 240 wagon 292k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1175975&rss=1 Sat, 14 Apr 2007 22:44 GMT huh? -- oceanre 91 240 wagon 292k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1173372&rss=1 Fri, 6 Apr 2007 13:46 GMT i would have paid to see that! i'm still laughing (where are the 'depends' when i need them!). -- oceanre 91 240 wagon 292k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1169396&rss=1 Thu, 22 Mar 2007 20:42 GMT glad it worked for you, martin. if there is one thing i have learned here on the brickboard it is that we all check our egos at the door and there is no such thing as a stupid question. whatever info or advice you need, someone here has it and is glad to share it with you. there are no smart alecks, no egomaniacs and no sarcastic sadists who need to show off their self-perceived knowledge and/or experience. over a short period of time the difference between someone who knows it all and someone who is a know it all will become self evident (thankfully, we have many of the former and very few of the latter). hell, i log on daily to read the posts even when my brick is running fine (and sometimes i can contribute). often i have impressed my wife and kids when after my brick craps out, i remember reading the same thing had happened to someone else and then i try their remedy and it works! instant gratification. -- oceanre 91 240 wagon 292k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1164599&rss=1 Tue, 6 Mar 2007 03:48 GMT whew! thought it had disappeared but i found it...try this link and it should bring you to the 88 240dl wagon owners manual. if it kicks you out, you will need to register on the volvo's owner's circle website and once registered, i think you can get in and get it for free. try this: http://new.volvocars.com/ownersdocs/1988/1988_240/88240_00.htm if that doesnt work, then go here and register: http://www.volvocars.us/tools/OwnersInfo/ hope that helps. -- oceanre 91 240 wagon 292k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1164277&rss=1 Mon, 5 Mar 2007 03:53 GMT well, i was just about to give you a bookmark where you could see the owner's manual for free on the volvo north america site. danged, if i clicked it on and it said the page was unavailable and directed me to the home page. from there, i finally got to where the manuals are kept and find that you now have to pay $19 for it! anyone know what happened to the 'free' link? if no one can help, or if volvo took down that portion of the site, you can pay through the nose here: https://www.volvotechinfo.com/index.cfm?event=item.view&type=WALLET&typename=Glove%20Compartment%20Items&subtype=&model=240&modelyear=1988&class=owner i'm hoping someone can tell me it's still free and how to get there. good luck! -- oceanre 91 240 wagon 292k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1164275&rss=1 Mon, 5 Mar 2007 03:42 GMT Hi Pete - i'm in Great River and try to do most things myself with parts from FCP Groton and IPD (although Georgetown Volvo in Smithtown have always been reasonably priced when you just cant wait for parts. When i'm stumped or rushed for time, i have always used Tony Haley at Fidelis Auto Repair on Portion Rd in Ronkonkoma 676-4401. Tell Gene that 'Garry' recommended the shop to you. what exactly is wrong with your trunk lock? Can you lock it manually? -- oceanre 91 240 wagon 292k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1163311&rss=1 Thu, 1 Mar 2007 21:55 GMT i've always been mystified by electricity but prided myself on being able to follow directions, so i decided to tackle the blower motor/resistor pack/switch replacement last summer (wih a lot of help from many of you). finally being successful, felt pretty good about it until one night last week. on the way to the hockey rink (abt 15 degrees F) with the blower cranking at position 4, i swerved to avoid a deer and my right foot came off the gas pedal and my right knee hit the left side of the center console (below the ignition switch). when i came into the parking lot and was about to turn off the key, i noticed the rear defroster light switch was illuminated (even though i had not touched it). thinking nothing of it, i turned off the blower motor and then the key (and went inside the rink to see my kid's team lose the last game of their dismal season). after the game i came out to the car, it started right up (the rear defroster lighted switch was not illuminated) but the blower motor did not turn on, no matter what the switch position was in. ok, probably jarred #3 fuse loose when i avoided the deer. after twirling the fuse with no change, i decided to just drive the 5 miles home with the natural flow of hot air thru the vents. this past weekend i went to town cleaning the fuse panel and tried 4 different 25a fuses but no luck. i used the voltmeter to see if there was any power across fuse #3 and there wasnt (used several combos of ignition on/off, blower switch on/of but voltmeter never moved off 0). decided to take off the center console cover and discovered the rear defroster time delay relay resting up against the white plastic connector from the blower motor switch (the one with the red wire which powers the blower motor and the blue wire for the a/c, i think). anyway, when i moved the relay out of the way, the white plastic connector had a burn mark in it and was melted a little bit. i didnt bother to pull the connector apart because by that time my fingers were frozen from the cold. well, i cursed my luck, retreated to the house to warm up and resolved to take it to a mechanic (with my head bent in shame...). anyway, today is a holiday and the mechanic is closed. however this problem has been bothering me and maybe i've had a eureka moment. i never put 2 and 2 together - i mean, i just now remembered the rear defroster being on prior to discovering the the blower motor didnt work. and replaying the scene where i found the relay resting up against the white connector where the burn mark/melted part was makes me think i've found the culprit. cold the rear defroster swtich turn itself on, the relay heated up to the point where it melted the wires inside the white connector and prevented the motor from turning on (all without snapping the #3 fuse)? whether or not this chain of events happened or not, did i fry my motor? (there was no smoke, no noise)...did i fry my resitor pack (again, no noise, no smoke)...could i get the bloody thing working again just by getting a new white plastic connector and putting the center console on back without having the relay near anything? again, appreciate the help/advice from those more at home with electricity... -- oceanre 91 240 wagon 292k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1160484&rss=1 Mon, 19 Feb 2007 17:31 GMT hi chris - i know it's cold where you are (maybe colder than here on long island) but maybe the new battery was affected by the cold? try a) get a jump from a running car, b) try make the starter go by using the screwdriver method , c) hit the starter with a mallet as you assist turns the key to start. i had a starter 'slowly' go on me (over a year) - periodically i would turn the key and not even get a click - nada, nothing. advice ranged from putting in a new ignition switch, key tumbler, ecu, and starter. i finally went the starter route and was amazed how much faster/better the new starter worked - i had gotten so used to the 'old' starter that i thought it's tired/wheezing starts were normal! good luck and stay warm. -- oceanre 91 240 wagon 292k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1157679&rss=1 Fri, 9 Feb 2007 20:16 GMT Marty, take it out. i dont know if you remember my posting about my tcb from the past summer but i lived with mine for years and got so used to it's erroneous indications that i let my car overheat and blew the top of the radiator off! you see, i thought that the needle moving all over the place (including into the red) was just a lie, so i kept the engine running in bumper to bumper traffic on the long island expressway at high noon on a 90 degree day while the needle was pegged into the red. well, the car overheated, the radiator top blew off and after 2 hours of waiting for the tow truck, 4 more hours in a shop for a new rad and postponing my son's boy scout camp for a week (not to mention the $400 tow and radiator bill) i finally took it out and now i get no more lies. since then, the needle goes to about the 8:30 position and is locked in there. and all the while, i'm content knowing that i'm getting a true reading, not something based in 'tea leaves'. take it out, mail to jorrell and let him have his way with it! brgds -- oceanre 91 240 wagon 292k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1152716&rss=1 Mon, 22 Jan 2007 04:38 GMT Marty, take it out. i dont know if you remember my posting about my tcb from the past summer but i lived with mine for years and got so used to it's erroneous indications that i let my car overheat and blew the top of the radiator off! you see, i thought that the needle moving all over the place (including into the red) was just a lie, so i kept the engine running in bumper to bumper traffic on the long island expressway at high noon on a 90 degree day while the needle was pegged into the red. well, the car overheated, the radiator top blew off and after 2 hours of waiting for the tow truck, 4 more hours in a shop for a new rad and postponing my son's boy scout camp for a week (not to mention the $400 tow and radiator bill) i finally took it out and now i get no more lies. since then, the needle goes to about the 8:30 position and is locked in there. and all the while, i'm content knowing that i'm getting a true reading, not something based in 'tea leaves'. take it out, mail to jorrell and let him have his way with it! brgds -- oceanre 91 240 wagon 292k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1152715&rss=1 Mon, 22 Jan 2007 04:37 GMT something in the venting system has fallen off or gotten misaligned somehow. i suggest you take the felt undercovers off the bottom of the dash (both sides) contort yourself so that your head is by the pedals, turn the car and heat on and feel for where the heat is escaping from. you will eventuall feel it. take a flashlight with you so you can definately identify the problem. i would suspect the driver's side air duct has fallen out of it's fitting and is shunting hot air in back of the cluster. -- oceanre 91 240 wagon 292k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1149236&rss=1 Tue, 9 Jan 2007 13:06 GMT right back at you, john. and to everyone else here! -- oceanre 91 240 wagon 292k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1145360&rss=1 Mon, 25 Dec 2006 07:08 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/