http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=22060 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 20:37 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 20:37 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Kim, Have you looked into the 700/900 FAQ section of this board? You can get to it from the drop down menu in the extreme upper right corner. The transmission trouble may be related to kick down cable adjustment, and a flush may be in order. Instructions for both are in the FAQs. For the shock absorber question you asked earlier, Gabriel or Monroe should be pretty cheap and good enough. Also, you might find some on e-bay. Charley http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387691&rss=1 Sat, 21 Nov 2009 15:06 GMT I'm glad to hear people saying good things about them. I haven't verified it, but I think they are shipping an engine to Boulder, CO for the car that I sold to some friends there, which threw a rod. I talked with DJ at Volvo Saab Auto Dismantlers on the phone, and based on the conversation I felt like they were a good supplier. Charley http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387599&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 23:11 GMT Very nice jig there. Is the nut that is facing up on the head threaded partly on the broken bolt and partly on the tool? Charley http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386770&rss=1 Mon, 16 Nov 2009 23:23 GMT Well, with access to all that equipment, I guess you will just solder a bung into the radiator for the switch. I suspect you could just hot wire the lead to the OD solenoid under the car to check to see if the problems is before the solenoid or after it. I haven't done it, but it seems it should be a valid check. Hotwiring it should be the same as driving with the switch on all the time, which is perfectly acceptable. My guess for you light in the fuel gauge is that it is a low fuel warning. Charley http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386765&rss=1 Mon, 16 Nov 2009 23:13 GMT Scott, Usually when bolts break off during installation, they are not too hard to get out because they are fresh. It is harder when they break on attempted removal. If you reinstall the pump with your torque wrench, check the calibration before you use it. Alternatively, don't use a torque wrench for a water pump. If you have to drill the bolt out, don't drill too deep. Depending upon which bolt it is, you can drill all the way through the cylinder wall. It happened to someone here on the board once. If you do drill all the way into the cylinder, you will probably start to hate the car and you may even start to hate the engineers who put the cylinder behind the water pump. Charley http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386756&rss=1 Mon, 16 Nov 2009 22:52 GMT Jim, You say the trans fluid is rosy pink. Is it clear pink? I think of it as clear red when it is new, so rosy pink sounds contaminated to me, but it may just be semantics. Given the history, I would pull the plug from the bottom of the trans and drain it into a container so you can get a good look at a quantity of it. Use a white or clear drain pain if you can. It can look pretty good on the stick, or by wiping the stick on a white rag, and at the same time look quite bad when seen in a quantity. The overdrive light (up-arrow light on the ones I have had) comes on when you are NOT in overdrive. It is trying to tell you to shift up. I bought my 95 940 with non-functional overdrive. In my case, the wire that feeds the shift solenoid came loose, rubbed through the insulation on the driveshaft, and blew the fuse. Fixing the wire and fuse fixed the overdrive. It could also be the relay or the solenoid. You need to flush the trans fluid out of the cooling system. I suggest draining the entire system by pulling the radiator hose and heater hose, and opening the block drain. Then, pull thermostat out and cut the guts out of its center so that it is open all the time (you need the outside ring of the thermostat to hold the ring gasket). You might want to remove the expansion tank and wash that out. Reassemble and add about a quart of liquid laundry detergent, and fill with water. Run it for about a half hour, drain, and rinse with plenty fresh water. Install a new thermostat and refill with coolant and distilled water. What was the deal on your radiator? Is it one you bought new and can exchange? Charley http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386746&rss=1 Mon, 16 Nov 2009 22:22 GMT Those nice 850s in the junkyard are probably there because the timing belt broke or slipped. It is an interference engine. Charley http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386651&rss=1 Mon, 16 Nov 2009 14:12 GMT Kevin, I believe there is info in the 700/900 FAQ section (see drop down menu in upper right) about buying a Volvo. Even though you are talking about a 240, they are mechanically very similar cars so a lot of the info should be applicable. Also, unless you are simply enamored with the style of the 240, you should consider a 740 or 940 as well. In my opinion, the 240 sedan is a nice looking sedan, and the 740/940 sedan is kind of homely. But, the wagons look about the same to me. I would not be likely to pay $1400 for a 90 with 228k on it, but it is not impossible that it is a fair price. Yes, some of them go to 400k, but I believe they are the exception, not the rule. I know there are some on here who have those kind of miles, but not many. Personally, I have seen one that had over 400k, and I have owned Volvos off and on since the mid 70s. As for snow, you need snow tires, preferably studded, on all four wheels. If you get into the newer 940s, I believe the 1041 lock up rear axle is standard equipment. I have one, but have not had it in the winter yet. I'm sure it will help. Earlier modes had an optional limited slip rear axle, but I have not seen many. They may be more common in more northern climates. I suggest staying with the B230 single cam 8-valve engine, and for simplicity, a non-turbo. The newest car you can get with this engine is a 1995 940. Charley http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386649&rss=1 Mon, 16 Nov 2009 14:03 GMT Scott, Install all the bolts, but don't tighten them. Then pry it up and tighten them. Charley http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386646&rss=1 Mon, 16 Nov 2009 13:44 GMT Most of your questions are answered in the FAQs. I think most people test mass meters by swapping in another one. With a Regina system, I believe it is not actually a mass meter, but is a temp sensor in the same location. Any codes from the OBD? Have you cleaned the grounds and looked for vacuum leaks? Charley http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386419&rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 12:21 GMT Does that year have the blinking light OBD, or some type of OBD that might have set codes? With it running that badly, it seems it should have set a code. White smoke in the exhaust usually means coolant it being "burned". Since the rest of the engine is fresh, is there some chance that the oil/water cooler that you added has a problem, and could it have any interface with combustion gasses? Charley http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386418&rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 12:11 GMT Ted, Yes, do the flush and test it. Also, keep an eye on fluid condition. You might find that want to flush it again after a few miles, maybe 50 or 100. I think because it was driven so few miles with the coolant in the trans, it will likely be okay. That happened to a friend of mine, and they drove it a lot farther than that because a shop told them it needed a head gasket, and they didn't want to drop that much money in the car. When we figured out it was the radiator, that was cheap because they could do it themselves. They haven't put enough miles on it with the new radiator to know for sure if the trans is going to be okay, but so far so good. In your case, you have nothing to loose by trying. I suspect it will be okay. Charley http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386414&rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 11:56 GMT Charles, Below is a clip from a Bosch Product Information sheet. Charley Simplified Test Procedure Locate the oxygen sensor and determine the wiring layout. On heated sensors check for heater element continuity, adequate 12 volt supply to heater and correct ground when the engine is running. Note - Many late model vehicles have the ground circuit of the oxygen sensor heating element controlled by the engine management ECU for sensor temperature control purposes. Do not supply direct voltage or external ground to these circuits. With engine speed at ~ 2000 RPM the sensor voltage should be seen to cycle smoothly between 100 – 900 mV (0.1 – 0.9 Volts) approximately eight times or more every ten seconds as shown. &#091Graph not included here&#093 A contaminated or tired sensor will be slow to cycle between the sensor voltage limits and may not generate the full potential of 900 mV. It may also be noticed that the lean swing may drop to zero voltage. Remember!! – The oxygen sensor is a battery, a sensor that generates 900 mV constantly is generally not faulty. Faulty sensors, like a failing battery, will be slow to cycle between the control limits and be generally slower to react to mixture changes. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386331&rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 00:22 GMT Yes, do the paint. If it is bad, it might not take a week to find out, but once the paint is on there keep an eye on it. Charley http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386322&rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 00:02 GMT I'm with Matt on this. I don't know why you even felt the need to ask. Charley http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386205&rss=1 Sat, 14 Nov 2009 11:08 GMT Jim, I just sent one to you, which should capture my e-mail address in your server. We will see if that works. Charley http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386023&rss=1 Fri, 13 Nov 2009 15:35 GMT Will, If it looks like a milkshake, change it now. Then see how long it takes to look like a milkshake again. If you have another vehicle that you can change the oil on, use the other vehicle's used oil to flush the one with the bad head gasket before changing to new oil. Charley http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385993&rss=1 Fri, 13 Nov 2009 12:28 GMT Does the power steering have a new belt that is properly tensioned? If not, that might be the problem. It sounds like a slipping belt to me. Charley http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385990&rss=1 Fri, 13 Nov 2009 12:11 GMT Dave, My 95 940 has a single din CR 915. Based on pics from e-bay, it looks like the plugs are the same as the double din SC-816. It was also the same as some other double din radios, but I don't remember the numbers for sure. I think they might have been SC-815 and SC-811. Charley http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385989&rss=1 Fri, 13 Nov 2009 12:09 GMT Since you said that the new one looks different, I don’t know what it looks like, but I'll try to explain it. You can see if the explanation makes any sense for what you are looking at. The normal seal that I have seen in that location would look a lot different on one side than the other. One side would be flat, and the other side is "open" so to speak. If it looks like you could use it as a cookie cutter, the side that would do the cutting goes into the rear end, and when installed, you would see the other side. If the seal is "closed" on both sides, look at the rubber lip in the center. It will be dished in one direction, that is, the inside diameter will point in one direction. The direction it points goes in first. In other words, lay the seal flat on a table on whichever side that puts the rubber lip of the inside diameter closest to the table. The side with the lip closest to the table goes in first. If you can't figure it out, and have a digital camera, you could post a pic of each side. If you can't figure out how to post pics here, get my e-mail from my profile and e-mail them to me. If you do that, try to make the file small. If you put it in the wrong way around, it will leak. When you install it, don't let the rubber lip turn inside out as you put it in. Charley http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385986&rss=1 Fri, 13 Nov 2009 11:56 GMT I don't remember how much room there is for a battery in a 444/544, but if you can fit in a Group 4, it should help. They are big, and they are made in larger production runs than other 6V batteries because older semi trucks used 4 of them. An 8-volt battery can also help, and the 6V equipment works with them without burning up, but sometimes the voltage regulator gets confused. Charley http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385757&rss=1 Thu, 12 Nov 2009 13:05 GMT You want all four as Herb said. The other reason is that the front wheels steer and do most of the stopping. So rear only will get you going, and then get you in trouble. Charley http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385756&rss=1 Thu, 12 Nov 2009 12:49 GMT I've got a 95 940 with a windshield leak on the driver's side. Is the urethane around the perimeter a fix for this? If so, do I need to get it at a glass shop, or is it available at a parts house? Being a 95, I am under the impression that the trim pieces are supplied as part of the glass. What am I into to get the trim off and back on again? The trim is already loose on the passenger side. It would be nice to fix this before the matching black duct tape wears out. Charley http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385518&rss=1 Wed, 11 Nov 2009 14:00 GMT It is perfectly normal to destroy the old seal getting it out. You aren't going to reuse it anyway. Charley http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385416&rss=1 Tue, 10 Nov 2009 20:54 GMT I don't know absolutely, but I'm pretty sure it will fit. The dimensions of a 245 and 745 may not be exactly the same, but they are pretty close. Remember that the car can be longer than 16 feet because you only have to get both axels on the trailer. The tail end of the car can stick out past the end of a trailer. If it is not a car hauling trailer (very low side rails) you may have to climb out the window or go out the back after the car is loaded because you won't be able to open the door. I loaded a Peugeot 505 sedan, which is about the size of a 240 onto a 6ft x 12ft trailer. It was close, but it fit, and yours is 3 in. wider and 4 ft longer. Charley http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385415&rss=1 Tue, 10 Nov 2009 20:46 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/