http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=21697 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 19:19 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 19:19 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. My recommendation is that if you don't want to spend hours fishing wires through the tailgate hinge, and you're not concerned with aesthetics, you can buy the cheapo aftermarket harness replacement, cut holes in the roof panel, plug the harness in, and fish the replacement wires through the door and wire up the harness to the lights, defroster, and wiper. Saved me a bunch of time when I was just looking to pass inspection. Took like 10 minutes. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385928&rss=1 Fri, 13 Nov 2009 02:55 GMT As someone who just sold a 1993 240 DL with 150,000 and entered into a 1977 242 with 67,000 miles, here are my $.02. Look at cleaning injectors. Look at rubber starting to crack - engine mounts, tranny mounts, window scrapers, etc. Look at changing the timing belt. You'll want to flush all the fluids. You'll want to see if there's any corrosion due to coolant sitting that long in the engine. Look for corrosion in the gas tank, yada yada. The water pump will probably start leaking once you drive it regularly. There will be a handful of small issues. A later model car that's been driven and well-maintained may be less maintenance; that said this could be a good deal. $7,000 I believe is pretty fair. My 93 244 was nothing to maintain. ran like a champ with nary an issue or stutter. My 77 has dried out rubber all around and funky little issues I'm working out. That said it still goes from point a to point b reliably - just nagging little issues to work out. I'm certain once the car's driven regularly the bugs will be worked out, but it will be working out little bugs that come with a non-daily driver. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385926&rss=1 Fri, 13 Nov 2009 02:49 GMT Smitty, I think I did pretty good over all. It will be fun to work the bugs out of the car and get some simple upgrades – I’m not turbobricking this thing – too pretty to mess up something so original. Are the Hella sealed beams the ones on the IPD website? Do you have a part number? FYI the car has an 4-speed manual tranny. It also has what the owner describes as a “high speed California rear end,” whatever that means. The car was kept in California, Oregon, and Washington since new, and kept in the garage a good 80% of the time. It has absolutely no rust outside superficial spots. Those will be POR 15’d and touched up with matching paint this winter. I look forward to sharing my experiences in repair, maintenance, and upgrade issues with the board. Webb Moncure http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382258&rss=1 Tue, 27 Oct 2009 12:24 GMT My car was banged up a bit by a parking lot hit-and-run driver at the gym this morning. It appears that the only damage sustained was superficial – the turn signal lens was cracked and the corner bumper gouged a bit. Question – what’s the best way to clean up bumper gouges? Does anyone have any experience? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1367137&rss=1 Thu, 20 Aug 2009 13:07 GMT Problem found. Misaligned flywheel sensor causing a misfire on cylinders 2&4. Now runs beautifully. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1364596&rss=1 Sat, 8 Aug 2009 01:05 GMT The dog barrier should still be out there - it has webbing on it (nylon string), and is in good shape, but some of the nylon string has split. You'd need to "re-web" it - probably would be pretty simlple. The structures are all in good shape. I could get it, package and ship it, UPS, for $60.00. http://www.brickboard.com/PICKNPULL/?id=1359308&rss=1 Sat, 11 Jul 2009 17:24 GMT Well my mechanic has replaced everything spark and electrical related, and checked on everything on the fuel side minus examining the inside of the tank. Everything checks out fine. Fuses have been replaced, contacts cleaned, still the same symptoms. Any recommendations? Could it be bad gas? Mechanic has never seen anything like this before and I'm pretty sure he hasn't dumped the fuel and replaced. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1359204&rss=1 Sat, 11 Jul 2009 00:28 GMT Steve, Where are you? You may check out the PickNPull off of Rt. 1 in Stafford. Take a walk through. They may have what you're looking for. Lots of 850 parts and maybe some s/v70 parts as well. Widewater Auto Parts. Regards, Webb http://www.brickboard.com/PICKNPULL/?id=1356977&rss=1 Sun, 28 Jun 2009 02:20 GMT Welcome to the Brickboard. You probably need to post this in the RWD forum. This is the "aftermarket" forum. Regards, Webb http://www.brickboard.com/AFTERMARKET/?id=1356976&rss=1 Sun, 28 Jun 2009 02:18 GMT An update. My mechanic now has the car at his shop. He’s swapped out just about everything electrical/computer related, and indicates that there is plenty of pressure from the in-tank pre-pump, and that from his 25+ years of experience it sounds like an injector not performing correctly or not firing under load. We’ll see though. He’s looked at it only once this week. It has just about everything new under the hood now because of this issue – at least a tune up has been taken care of. After two weeks of no car I’m looking forward to getting my Brick back! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1356529&rss=1 Thu, 25 Jun 2009 15:10 GMT At the pick'n pull in Virginia are four nice Virgos on a mid/early 80's turbowagon. Dog gate available as well. Lots of 240 parts. Let me know if you need anything in particular and for a reasonable removal/packaging/shipping fee I'll pull things off. Lots of Mercedes 240D and 300D parts as well, and quite a few 940/740's available. Rear reflector that goes between the two taillights on a 740 available as well. Consoles, dash parts, etc. I've pulled what I need for myself, but would be willing to look for parts next weekend when I'm out there. http://www.brickboard.com/PICKNPULL/?id=1355676&rss=1 Sun, 21 Jun 2009 18:13 GMT Does anyone know of any online sources of oil pressure senders that will work with the 5-bar oil pressure gauge I have? I want to use this gauge and not the idiot light on my 93 240 and want to know what I need to do. Thanks for your time! Regards, Webb http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1355521&rss=1 Sat, 20 Jun 2009 20:35 GMT Thanks for the advice. I'm going to review these pieces of advice this weekend and work on the car this week. I'll let all know what the culprit is as soon as we determine the real problem. Have a great day! Regards, Webb http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1355520&rss=1 Sat, 20 Jun 2009 20:33 GMT I have had my otherwise wonderful red 240 DL sedan in the shop for over week getting looked at with a stumble under load. The car runs fine once you get into higher rpm's, and it idles fine, but apply some load and it stumbles until it revs pretty high. I've replaced the following items: rotor, cap, plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, air filter, swapped out AMM's and ECU's. I've replaced timing belt and tensioner as well. None of these things have corrected my stumble. What could it be? The car has been otherwise well maintained, oil changes every 3-5k since new, service records, everything. It just keeps stumbling. There is plenty of fuel pressure as well at the line, so my mechanic tells me as he has the tools for this. So FPR is not the issue. Any ideas are greatly appreciated. I have myself and a 25+ year Volvo mechanic stumped! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1355404&rss=1 Sat, 20 Jun 2009 02:06 GMT I'm trying to do the same thing - and am curious as well about removing that rear fairing. Are the pre '86's any different in body metal, as they don't appear to have that rear fairing. Are the rubber mud flaps also a direct bolt on once all that plastic and rocker trim is removed? Thanks... Webb http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1264638&rss=1 Thu, 13 Mar 2008 15:19 GMT I am selling a 1976 262 GL on eBay. This is a very rare vehicle. If anyone’s interested just search eBay for 262. It’s rust-free, a high-desert car, excellent candidate for restoration, and the bidding has only gone up to $250. Shipping to the east coast in total is about $1400. It’s a nice, rare, collectible brick, and I wish I had the funds to fix it up. I posted it on the classifieds about a week ago, but have had no response from the Brickboard. Again, if anyone is interested let me know. I’d like to see it find a good home where someone will breathe some life into it! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1261725&rss=1 Thu, 28 Feb 2008 18:36 GMT My indy mechanic just installed my Starla exhaust from FCP. There are some leaks where the axle pipe meets the rear muffler, and where the rear muffler goes to the S shaped exhaust. Any recommendations on tightening the clamps / junctions between the muffler and the pipes? Could they have mixed the clamps? I want to get a good seal and get rid of the hissing. I can completely hold the end of my exhaust with my bare hand and exhaust leaks out through the junctions. Is this normal on this exhaust or should I demand an install sans these small leaks? Should there be a 100% seal? Will the leaks affect anything? Thanks in advance. Webb http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1260306&rss=1 Fri, 22 Feb 2008 03:40 GMT The trip meter on my brick is broken. Does anyone have the hardware/pieces for the defective part of my instrument cluster? Does anyone have an otherwise non-functioning cluster that has a functional trip meter? Local pick-n-pull wants to charge $45 for a cluster. Just lookin for a little help. A tach where the clock goes would also be nice... http://www.brickboard.com/PICKNPULL/?id=1259138&rss=1 Sun, 17 Feb 2008 14:29 GMT Two years of not driving a brick have passed, after having bought and then sold a 1986 Toyota Pickup, I bought myself a rust-free (West Coast) dealer-maintained maroon 245 DL with an m-47, and 214,000 actual miles. I bought it sight-unseen from a Volvo dealership 250 miles away in Corvallis, Oregon, for $2000 and drove her home. There were no signs of structural bodywork, but it was cheaply resprayed at some point and the clearcoat is peeling pretty severely on the hood. The tail-lamps came cracked, the tailgate wiring harness is shot, the exhaust is on its way out, and the rear bushings need replacement. Otherwise, newer steering rack (2 years), throttle body, intake manifold & gaskets, heater hoses, water pump, timing belt, all new front suspension components and bushings (less than two years old). New cap, rotor, wires and plugs. 1-year old dealer-installed blower motor and heater core, 5,000 miles on new brakes, master cylinder, rotors, and calipers, and tires have plenty of tread. No rips or tears inside (but there is a cracked dash), both map pockets are there, but the e-brake console is smashed. Imagine that. I just drove the 250 miles home south on I-5 in Oregon flawlessly, tracking straight on the highway and quietly and smoothly humming down the road 70-75 mph most of the way. My daily-driver "rolling restoration" is underway; over the next year I hope to get everything in tip top shape mechanically, and then the year after work on aesthetics (i.e. paint and body). The goal is practical perfection, but right now it's function over form. I'll post pics, insights, commentary, and questions (for sure), as I go through the process of getting her up to snuff. It'll be fun! I just did the seafoam treatment through the brake-booster vacuum tube on her, which worked well. Lots of smoke. I did it twice, in fact. Much more smoke the first time. The engine now runs slightly cooler - which I found to be interesting. I wonder why that is?? I changed the transmission fluid to Redline MTL, switched out the rear diff fluid, changed the oil to 10w30. This month I'll be putting poly bushings on the rear, adjusting the valves, rewiring the tailgate, and replacing the cat-back exhaust with an FCPGroton Starla exhaust kit. I bought the Estonian headlights and tail-lamps off of eBay, which, in my experience are of very high quality. They'll go on this week when they come in. Since what I had were yellowed or cracked all-around, and I do a good amount of night-driving, it was time to find a replacement. Again, I'll post pics as I work through this one. It should be fun to watch! Glad to be back on the Brickboard! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1258002&rss=1 Tue, 12 Feb 2008 03:26 GMT I put the Bertone on ebay - it's item # 270117732934. I'm gonna miss it! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=017&sspagename=STRK%3AMESE%3AIT&viewitem=&item=270117732934&rd=1,1 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1181198&rss=1 Sun, 6 May 2007 18:03 GMT The price has dropped on my Bertone. I figure $5000 or just BEST OFFER to the first Brickboarder who really wants it would be fair. I'll help facilitate shipping, if interested. It's out of the garage, and although the weather's nice here, I can't bear to see it living outside. If interested you can call me directly at (541)205-2186. I really want a good home for this car. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1179341&rss=1 Sat, 28 Apr 2007 15:49 GMT It's a V-6. Runs perfectly - recently changed w/ 100 % synthetic - no leaks, no nothing. Well maintained freeway miles. Transmission fluid is nice and red, and according to the service records was changed once in its 44k mi life. It also comes with an extra front turn signal for the passenger side - there's a very slight crack in it, so I got a replacement. There are some very slight cosmetic defects (no cracked dash or faded interior vinyl), but I would be willing to wager this is one of the finest examples of the 1st year of the 780 in North America. There has also never been any body work, as far as I can see from service records and a very hands-on inspection. The interior is hands-down the best I've ever seen in an 80's Volvo. All the interior electrics work flawlessly. The antenna doesn't go up in the back, but the motor and dash switch works fine - just seems to be jammed in. An easy fix for someone with more time than me!! Amazingly the seat electrics work flawlessly as well. It will need a front brake job, and recently had the rear pads/hubs/rotors done w/in 2k miles. I was planning on doing it myself, but I would rather pass the car on to someone who has the time and plans on actually driving it more than taking it for a freeway run every couple weeks. I just have a handful at home, and an old Volvo wagon plus the Subaru Outback on the way is all we need and can take care of at this point. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1177853&rss=1 Mon, 23 Apr 2007 00:50 GMT Surprise suprise, I'm selling my 1987 garage kept 780 Bertone w/44k miles on it. Check it out, it's in the classifieds. My brother in law bought us a dog, and with two kids the car has lost its practicality. I'm getting a wagon. Best offer sale, more high-res pics available on request. I'm in Southern Oregon, it's a California car, and I can help arrange shipping if interested. Like new interior, full air dam, yada yada. I prefer to sell her to a brickboarder - let me know if you're interested. http://brickboard.com/CLASSADS/index.htm?id=11642 Webb webb.moncure@gmail.com http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1177752&rss=1 Sun, 22 Apr 2007 17:52 GMT If you are in the Stafford area consider Shackelford's Garage. He's worked on 3 of my 740's. The best Volvo garage in the area, without a doubt. Very reasonable. 540-373-0969. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1168731&rss=1 Tue, 20 Mar 2007 01:50 GMT http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u174/moncureww/BertoneInside.jpg http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u174/moncureww/BertoneInside3.jpg http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u174/moncureww/BertoneInside2.jpg http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u174/moncureww/BertoneOutside.jpg http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u174/moncureww/BertoneOutside3.jpg It's wonderful! Take a look. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1159753&rss=1 Sat, 17 Feb 2007 03:52 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/