http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=21095 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sun, 22 Nov 2009 08:28 GMT Sun, 22 Nov 2009 08:28 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Have had the rear main replaced as well as the oil separator. Maybe something is loose in the PCV system? This smokes immediately--does not need to warm up. It looks like there is a bolt missing--should it be this way? The fumes bother my asthma but my wife doesn't notice. Please see images and link to video: Images: http://www.flickr.com/photos/9180275@N04/sets/72157622067505036/ Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KKh4vHIg7g4 (Watch it in normal, rather than HD, if it runs slowly) Thanks in advance, Paul http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1366602&rss=1 Mon, 17 Aug 2009 20:48 GMT For 14K, I am looking at a 2004 S60R w/ all service records. It's just past the 67,000 mile mark / dealer warranty. Assuming it's in great shape after inspection, can I expect reasonable reliability? I change my Volvos oil after 3K (would probably use Mobile 1 on this guy) and use Volvo/Mann filters, transmission flushes after 20K, etc. It's either this one OR a 2006 S60 2.5T w/ 52K on it, but that one is at the dealer and comes certified pre-owned w/ a powertrain warranty until 100,000 miles or 2011 (but it's 16K). What do you all think? Cheers, Paul http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1364365&rss=1 Thu, 6 Aug 2009 23:07 GMT Okay, I am going Volvo crazy... Almost about to pull the trigger on an 06 V70 and then an 05 S60T caught my eye... The leather looks more like vinyl--that is, the leather in my 850 GLT appears way nicer--it doesn't have that fake looking grain. So: am I looking at pleather or leather on the contact portion of the seats in an S60T? Thanks! Paul http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1359864&rss=1 Tue, 14 Jul 2009 18:16 GMT I bought a cheap ($60) OBDII reader and use it frequently to reset my recurring P0410 (air pump) code when it throws. Worth every penny... http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1359844&rss=1 Tue, 14 Jul 2009 15:50 GMT Thanks guys. Well I looked and the seller, a local indy dealer, has two of these '06 V70s. The one I want has 23K on it. While he has it listed at 18,900, the KBB trade in for good condition is closer to 15,000 (it has a scratch on the rear door that looks like it's been touched up). My sense is that if I could walk away having spent 16,000, maybe 16,500, I'd be a happy camper. It does happen to be one of the lowest priced 2006 v70s in the Bay Area and is still under the factory warranty (but only until 2010). So we'll see... http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1359841&rss=1 Tue, 14 Jul 2009 15:48 GMT Thinking of purchasing a 2006 v70 wagon (non-turbo) with around 22K on the odometer. I think it should still have the factory warranty until 50K or sometime in 2010. KBB values it at around 18K private party in excellent condition. I might try lower, say 16-17K. My wife and I are probably going to put 30-35K on it in the next year. Our other alternative is a Subaru Outback wagon. From the boards, it seems like an '06 V70 gets past a lot of the wrinkles seen earlier + it's not an AWD car. Assuming the vehicle history and maintenance records check out, we might do it. Any thoughts appreciated. --Paul http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1359663&rss=1 Mon, 13 Jul 2009 19:50 GMT thanks for talking some sense into me guys... it's at a volvo dealer, so i'll try to get the service records. since the turbos don't have a flame trap, are they less likely to have had pcv clog ups (whereas a lot of folks don't even know about removing the flame traps in the non-turbos)? paul http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1358820&rss=1 Wed, 8 Jul 2009 23:22 GMT We are looking for a second car and love our existing 1996 glt wagon. A local search turned this up at a volvo dealer: 1996 Volvo 850 TURBO Mileage 67,392 Miles Engine 2.3 liter5 Cyl. 20 Valve Transmission Automatic VIN # YV1LW5728T2205875 Induction Turbocharged They are asking 7,999, which is high. Assuming that I could get this for say $6,500 - 7,000, I think it would be satisfying. I think I would ask them to include changing the timing belt, and I would have it inspected by an indy shop. Is it easy to assess the condition of the AC evap? And do these turbos have the same propensity to have RMS leaks as the non-turbos? I hate having to deal w/ oil leaks. Thanks! http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1358742&rss=1 Wed, 8 Jul 2009 18:11 GMT great info. thanks very much. will be keeping my eye out for a series 2 or 3 v70, possibly an acura mdx or lexus rx series, or subaru as you point out. cheers. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1357067&rss=1 Sun, 28 Jun 2009 20:45 GMT Hello- I have an 850 wagon w/ high miles and was wanting to get another younger vehicle for outings. We test drove some Toyotas today and the interiors made me want to vomit--so very plain w/ lousy seats, etc. So... we are looking at v70s. Have heard that AWDs are high maintenance. What is the most reliable year for v70s? I would love to own a Volvo that doesn't have the numerous mickey-mouse problems and large issues that the 850s have: RMS leaks, clogged PCV systems, A/C evap, seat-back cables, stuck glovebox latches, etc. We love the 850 wagon but would like to spend less time and money on repairs, and there is no good Volvo mechanic in our town. On the other hand, Toyotas are soulless. Does this mean a Lexus crossover or Acura MDX in our future? What are your thoughts on the best value in terms of reliability for Volvos post 2002? Our price range is up to 15K. Thanks. Cheers, Paul http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1356998&rss=1 Sun, 28 Jun 2009 05:29 GMT For my volvo 850 non-turbo, I am going to replace the distributor cap and rotor and put in new plugs. I see FCP sells ignition wire sets--my engine has 170K (plugs, cap, rotor changed about 20K miles ago) on it and I haven't ever replaced the ignition wires but have no indication that I need to do so... All thoughts appreciated. Thanks, Paul http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1351786&rss=1 Tue, 2 Jun 2009 19:24 GMT is this hose 1 inch vacuum line that you can buy and cut to size? thanks. pm http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1339812&rss=1 Tue, 24 Mar 2009 20:59 GMT Hi Klaus, Thanks for the reply and sorry for the confusion. This is what is missing: http://www.brickboard.com/IMAGELIB/volvopic.htm?js_link=1&id=8425 Is this the hose that goes to the cold start fan? i.e., the one next to the fat accordion-like intake hose? And it it's gone, how much of a problem? Thanks. Paul http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1339197&rss=1 Sun, 22 Mar 2009 00:06 GMT Hello- I finally got my pcv and rms situation solved and am on a road trip. w/o any manuals i can't remember if there is a cold-intake hose on the non-turbo 850s running from the air filter to the radiator. in any event, i don't see one in my current setup and am hoping it's not on some shop floor. an image search reveals a non-turbo engine w/ one, leaving me scratching my head. this is a silly anatomy question, but just to ease my mind (or perhaps cause panic), is there such a hose on the naturally aspirated 850s? i don't have my haynes manual, etc. i don't have the thinner hose attached to the air box and am wondering if this is an artifact of someone working on the pcv and pulling apart everything under the manifold. Since it looks like the cold-air hose to me, what is the part needed / part number? http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/7/72/B5252S.jpg thanks! paul 1996 850 non-turbo http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1339091&rss=1 Sat, 21 Mar 2009 06:52 GMT Thanks folks for the good feedback. I am picking up the car today which will now have a new PCV system (breather box and pipes/hoses). I have asked the mechanic to save the old box and pipes for my inspection, as this has been an issue of curiosity for me for some time now (will post images soon). The true test will be looking at the dipstick holder for smoke, the hallmark of positive crankcase pressure, and watching that new RMS for leakage. Overall, I will have spent $750 for the RMS and about $500-600 for diagnosing and replacing the PCV system (seems like I underpaid slightly for the RMS and overpaid for the PCV business). While I was at it, I had the left CV boot replaced (easy during RMS repair) and finally got around to the driver's seat-back cable, which also needed a new control module (used = $150). Sometimes I wish the Fed would step in and buy this toxic asset from me, lol. Autorx may be my next step per Klaus' advice. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1338592&rss=1 Wed, 18 Mar 2009 21:30 GMT Well I took my car in to another shop and had a leak-down test performed. Here are the results: #1: 8% #2: 20% #3: 24% #4: 18% #5: 18% These results are not too bad for a car w/ 160K--the first shop (an independent Volvo mechanic in Chico, CA) had said that my #4 and #5 were 89% and 65%, which had me freaked. Their claim was that this pressure was too high for any PCV system to bear; therefore they were not willing to guarantee the RMS they had just replaced. This seemed like a way to opt out of standing behind the job. And the car recently passed smog with no problems, so I was confused as to how I'd get these high values. I am having the new guy (a Euro/Porsche mechanic) replace the whole PCV system + new intake manifold gasket. When all is said and done, I'll have a new RMS and PCV system and hopefully no more headaches... Paul http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1338142&rss=1 Mon, 16 Mar 2009 21:38 GMT Got it. Leak-down test scheduled with a new shop. I've had a very difficult time getting mechanics (incl. Volvo guys) to R&R the pcv system despite all I've read on these boards. The shop that just replaced the RMS says they never see 850 pcvs clog, which has me suspicious. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1337571&rss=1 Fri, 13 Mar 2009 22:23 GMT Well i had the rms replaced on my 850 w/ 160K on it. The guys doing it claim that the crankcase pressure is not due to the pcv system but rather to a worn-out engine / piston blow-by and that no amount of tinkering would reduce the pressure to an appropriate level. I have always been attentive to the car in terms of oil changes, the right filters, etc., so i am a little suspicious and will probably take it somewhere else where they are willing to do a full pcv system overhall (breather replacement). Is there a level on a compression test that would indicate a "beyond-help" level, or can a fair amount of blow-by be captured by the pcv system? I would hate to give up on this otherwise spotless car... Thanks! Paul http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1337552&rss=1 Fri, 13 Mar 2009 21:18 GMT Thanks guys. The independent shop (only Volvo one in my area) insists on putting the flame trap back in after replacing the rms and working on the pcv system. It could be an example of a California fear-of-liability thing, but it's annoying because I'll have to go in and remove the flame trap asap. Some mechanics, much like doctors, seem to strongly dislike input from their clients. But since this shop is charging $750 for the rms job instead of $1K+ at the dealer, I can put up w/ a little nonsense I suppose. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1336802&rss=1 Tue, 10 Mar 2009 17:15 GMT thanks! just so i can put the argument to rest, what's the doc it's appended to? or do you mean this metaphorically, as in the unnecessary organ? thanks, paul http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1336615&rss=1 Mon, 9 Mar 2009 19:38 GMT Hello- I am replacing the original RMS on my non-turbo 850 at 160,000 miles. At the same time I am addressing any positive crankcase pressure that may be contributory. The independent shop who is doing the work insists that the flame trap must be in pace (they even said by law). Now I know this is a stretch. I read somewhere that there may have been a service bulletin on this, but my understanding is that on the 850s flame traps are not necessary to prevent engine fires and that they do more harm than good. Bay13 says that 1998s (presumably s70s) left the factories w/o flame traps. Does anyone here have a sense of official word on this for 850s? Being California, most shops I've talked to are pretty dogmatic about keeping with original EMS specs. Since I am sinking the big bucks into the RMS repair I don't want a headache 20K down the road. Thanks, Paul http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1336611&rss=1 Mon, 9 Mar 2009 19:12 GMT Okay--will do and report back! If anyone knows of an indy volvo in the Sacramento / Chico (maybe even Bay Area) area do let me know. Thanks! Paul http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1335815&rss=1 Thu, 5 Mar 2009 23:29 GMT Thanks for the tip, Klaus. Would Autorx have a way to clean out the crud in the breather system? E.g., carbon deposits in the oil trap and hoses? The flame trap was taken out long ago, but the fumes coming out of the dip stick have been getting more noticeable. My RMS leak seemed to increase after I replaced the oil filler cap seal (after it had been seeping). Cheers, Paul http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1335807&rss=1 Thu, 5 Mar 2009 23:00 GMT Well it's time, or getting there, to do the RMS. Before plunking down $ to do so I want to replace the PCV system. FCP has a kit. Has anyone had their mechanic do this entire job: RMS plus breather system, intake manifold gasket, etc.? I've gotten quotes on the RMS but most mechanics seem reluctant to replace the breather box and hoses, seemingly unaware of the connection. Thanks for your feedback. Paul http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1335737&rss=1 Thu, 5 Mar 2009 19:26 GMT Hello- I've been very happy with bridgestone turanza ls-h tires for my 1996 850 wagon (GLT) and need to replace, but I don't think they are in production anymore. Any ideas on comps? Thanks! PM http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1318899&rss=1 Thu, 11 Dec 2008 17:46 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/