http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=20911 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 02:44 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 02:44 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Thanks for the suggestions. When I picked up the car, I cleaned the heck out of the throttle body, replaced the bellows, and replaced the spark plug wires. I've experienced a failing FPR, failed main pump, and bad injection fuse before - although this could be a different flavor of any of those issues. I'm still not so sure about a fuel-side problem but I'll investigate it regardless. The car came with a couple spare relays for a reason. This would be a lot easier to diagnose if the problem simply kept the car from running long enough for me to trace the issue. I hate solving intermittent problems for precisely the reason they are problems... http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383698&rss=1 Mon, 2 Nov 2009 23:11 GMT I don't know for sure that the CPS has failing insulation, but pouring water back there is about the only wet-related problem I can find. Would a failing crank sensor be in line with any of the symptoms I've described? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383191&rss=1 Sat, 31 Oct 2009 13:03 GMT Paul, I'd suspect the in-tank pump except that it does not exhibit the classic in-tank failure - hesitation or stalling with a low fuel level. There's no rhyme or reason to the stumble or no-start condition. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383189&rss=1 Sat, 31 Oct 2009 13:00 GMT I posted on this as a no-start issue a couple weeks ago. It was suggested that my FI fuse might be getting wet or that my spark plugs were arcing due to damp conditions. Of course as soon as I went to test the problem, the car started up without issue. Over the last couple weeks the car has started fine, but it has come close to stalling several times after idling at a light for a couple minutes. It seems unrelated to operating temperature or degree of wetness. It has so far been impossible to predict when it will stumble and nearly die. This morning the car wouldn't start and when I tried it again after work it ran just fine. I've done a little testing and found a few things: My FI fuse is missing. The whole shebang. No holder or wires but just the bare remains of a plastic holder where the fuse should have been. NO obvious rewiring there either - but I do assume that used to be there but was bypassed by someone. I don't think I have an arcing problem due to atmospheric wetness. With the engine running I poured several gallons of water over several parts of the engine and never succeeded in stalling the car once. I did this at night and saw no sparks or arcs. After each test I shut down the car and it restarted without trouble. I did however, force the throttle down as far as I could with the pulley and this "sorta" mimicked the near-stall that I've been experiencing. Pouring water on the back of the engine near the firewall did change the idle somewhat but it did not come close to killing the engine. This test makes me think that maybe the CPS could be at fault. I hear they disintegrate, but I'm not sure if it could explain my symptoms. It has been raining a lot here. The car sat out in the rain overnight (with a hood that does not seal completely) the *first* time it wouldn't start. Last night it rained all night, but the car was sheltered. I have parked the car in the rain while at work and it started up (still in the rain) at the end of the day. The only other weird thing is that I have occasionally caused the car to idle poorly after playing with the headlight switch a few times. This is also intermittent behavior but when it happens it is noticeable and directly tied to the headlight switching. Overall this seems electrical. I've smelled unburnt fuel after a long cranking session - when the car would not start. I assume this is a "fire" problem. Any ideas? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383151&rss=1 Sat, 31 Oct 2009 03:31 GMT You can download and print what you need from here <a href="http://volvo1800pictures.com/sweden/Volvo_1800_dokumentation_main_page_en.htm">http://volvo1800pictures.com/sweden/Volvo_1800_dokumentation_main_page_en.htm</a> Someone is usually selling them on CD on eBay and you can occasionally find a paper set for sale on eBay. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381663&rss=1 Sat, 24 Oct 2009 19:47 GMT was that 21 million pesos or lira? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381141&rss=1 Thu, 22 Oct 2009 01:49 GMT Just thought I'd post that I found and solved the clunk this afternoon. Seems that BOTH top strut bolts had about 1/4" left to be torqued down. I'd swear they were tight when I put them in, but I guess not. Foolish error on my part, Best to do that part with good light. Fortunately the same impact wrench pulled finally the front together. I only cost me a couple zip-ties from the bellows. It also gave me a chance to re-torque the strut gland nuts. A test drive greeted me with no clunks and a pretty nice ride. I think I can put off visually intact A-arm bushings until I can see or feel some collapse or excessive play down there. Next up is the rear end. Anybody got a pair of overloads they want to unload? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380354&rss=1 Sun, 18 Oct 2009 22:47 GMT http://volvoforums.com/forum/showthread.php?p=186068 <a href="http://volvoforums.com/forum/showthread.php?p=186068">http://volvoforums.com/forum/showthread.php?p=186068</a> That ought to work. Sorry about the mix-up. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380123&rss=1 Sat, 17 Oct 2009 15:09 GMT 300 lbs of junk? is that a jab at one's spouse? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380009&rss=1 Sat, 17 Oct 2009 00:24 GMT You guys are getting way too excited about this. South Am volvos are odd as a rule. Drop the 25K on a P1900. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379738&rss=1 Fri, 16 Oct 2009 01:30 GMT Yeah, 67.5 has the same system as a 68. I know owning both an early 67 and a full 1968. The front boosted system makes perfect sense when you consider that 80% of your braking is done by the front brakes. My 68 came with precisely that system. You can easily upgrade to a fully boosted system with a 140-series stand and booster or you can split an earlier system into front and rear using a 5/16-20 short bolt and crush ring along with a set of brass brake line fittings. A dual-triangular upgrade requires a set of 1800E calipers. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379737&rss=1 Fri, 16 Oct 2009 01:28 GMT I figured someone would have something to say about casting your own bushings. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379507&rss=1 Thu, 15 Oct 2009 01:48 GMT ...erg. It worked fine when I got home at 7:30 PM. Intermittent problem - my least favorite kind of issue. I'll check for the issues you guys mentioned. I've got a spare set of wires ("cheapo" Bosch wires from autozone). I seem to recall that was the set on there when I hosed out the engine compartment. I have a nearly new set of OEM Volvo wires on there now. If I rule out the wires at next problem, that puts me down to sparks and coil. Maybe I'll grab a spare coil next time I visit the junkyard. I *have* had one die on me before. I'm not too sure about that under hood fuse. Is it supposed to be on the driver's side inner fender between the airbox and power steering reservoir? If so, there doesn't appear to be an actual fuse in that holder. I was almost sure I've read that they removed the troublesome fuse on the later models. Thanks for the responses. At least I know what to check for if the car doesn't start tomorrow. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379506&rss=1 Thu, 15 Oct 2009 01:43 GMT Oh no, it one of those ubiquitous "It won't start" threads. I'll try and be brief and I've not had a chance to investigate as I had to head to work. Background 1990 245 DL 222k miles. Been repairing and restoring missing interior parts over the last month. When I got the car, I washed the engine thoroughly with a hose and found that the car would not start until it has dried out. Has not been a problem since that one time. Checked mileage for the first time since restoring the odometer and found I'm getting about 22 MPG. Have noticed that the idle would stick "high" (1500-2200 RPM) after coming off the highway or after a 10 minute drive. The problem would go away after shutdown. Anyway, it's been cool, overcast, and rainy for the last couple days. This morning, I got in the car to go. The engine cranked and fired but stalled without ever really running. I tried for a couple minutes before giving up. Got out of the car and could faintly smell unburnt gasoline My initial thought from the wetness (and previous water cleaning experience) is the distributor cap, but I've not been able to test anything yet (Fuel/Fire/Pump) and I won't be home until late tonight so I wanted some advice on what was a likely problem before I go out there in the dark rain to try and get the car going. I do not think the 1990 has that troublesome fuse/relay under the hood that most complain about. But I do not know if I'm wrong or if there is an equivalent problem. Cracked dizzy cap seems like an old-school type problem... Any thoughts?? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379470&rss=1 Wed, 14 Oct 2009 21:38 GMT In the world of 740s and 940s, I've read that the older/early relays were much more prone to failure than the newer ones. If that's true a new unit should fix the problem more or less permanently. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379071&rss=1 Tue, 13 Oct 2009 01:16 GMT I've seen a radio supression relay on a 1990 740 fail and completely stump a mechanic for over a month. I don't know if the 200s even have such a relay - but if they do the symptoms would be consistent with what you're describing. I think it kills the system on the opposite side of the circuit mimicking a failed fuel pump relay. Like I said. I still don't know if the 200 even has such a part. I'm just getting into this model. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378930&rss=1 Mon, 12 Oct 2009 15:10 GMT Have any of you guys seen this? <a href=">http://volvoforums.com/forum/showthread.php?p=186068">http://volvoforums.com/forum/showthread.php?p=186068</a> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378921&rss=1 Mon, 12 Oct 2009 14:09 GMT if someone posted a picture that'd be very helpful. Hawkeye, you may be being too nice to the "next" guy. I did that with a set of unusual hubcaps and the next guy grabbed them and put them up on eBay for a quick buck. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378916&rss=1 Mon, 12 Oct 2009 13:49 GMT Not to throw a shadow on a repair that has obviously worked well. Copper refrigerant line comes up on the 120-130 boards regarding repairing/replacing the fuel pickup line inside the fuel tank. People have argued against using that kind of copper line for fuel line repair. It has been claimed that it "hardens" over time and becomes highly susceptible to stress fractures. I end-ran the problem myself so I never had to decide one way or the other. It sounds as if you've had long-term experience checking the repairs so maybe those guys are just being alarmist or it is not a risk in this application. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378911&rss=1 Mon, 12 Oct 2009 13:38 GMT So you're leak is somewhere "upstream" of the pump, between the pump and the fitting? On second thought, a compression fitting would probably not work with high-pressure fuel line - although you can buy rubber high-pressure fuel line from most parts places which might let you "patch" the problem temporarily. A lasting fix probably requires a replacement line. I'd think you'd be able to get just that part from from a pick and pull. Barring that, a dealer may be your best bet. After the holiday, call up "Tasca Volvo" (Dealer). They have a website but I've found it hard to use. Tasca is *best* dealer around for parts and offer deeply discounted prices shipped to you. For example - the fuel pump for my 1995 940 costs over $440.00 from my local dealer. Tasca shipped it to me 2nd Day air for about $230.00. Many people on the board highly recommend Tasca. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378830&rss=1 Sun, 11 Oct 2009 23:43 GMT You should make sure the pressurized fuel line up near the injectors are not leaking. I'm not too familiar with the '82 but most have a line fitting up there. It shouldn't be too hard to trace the source of the leak gas quickly dissolves the undercoating. Also. At least with later models much of the fuel line is plastic. If it is metal and you can find the leak you might be able to cut it and mend it with some brass double-ended compression fitting (available from place like autozone and home depot. You can always order some "fuel" line from McMaster-Carr if you know the dimensions. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378801&rss=1 Sun, 11 Oct 2009 21:09 GMT There are precious few things fixed properly by hitting them with a hammer. Your catalytic converter might have collapsed internally. I can't think of any other reason that hitting it might have helped. Check the FAQ for the procedure to read the ODB codes from the diagnotic unit on the driver's side strut tower. I suppose you could be burning accumulated crud out of the system. You might try the procedure to de-carbonize the cylinders http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378794&rss=1 Sun, 11 Oct 2009 20:34 GMT On my "stock" glovebox, both the hinges are broken away from the body of the box. There's about 2" square piece of the main box with the intact hinges attached. A local volvo guy gave me a spare with a singel broken hinge. It stays closed most of the time. Has anyone figured a good way to repair these things? I was thinking about a combination of JB Weld and fiberglass drywall mesh. What have you guys tried - or am I wasting my time here? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378791&rss=1 Sun, 11 Oct 2009 20:24 GMT Hey, good point! the mounts are these are known trouble and I've not even checked mine. Still gonna do the ball joints. Believe it or not, the quality (non-economy) ball joints from IPD are less expensive shipped than the ones from FCP Groton or the ones sold locally. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378789&rss=1 Sun, 11 Oct 2009 20:21 GMT I don't have recent maintenance records showing lower ball joint replacement in the last eight years. Given the torn boot on the passenger side, I'm going to plan to replace both of the ball joints next week. Even if it is not a source of clunks, it will be worth the trouble to replace them now. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378772&rss=1 Sun, 11 Oct 2009 18:15 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/