http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=20911 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2012, Jarrod Stenberg Thu, 17 May 2012 07:35 GMT Thu, 17 May 2012 07:35 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Man, that does suck. Confirm that things are mechanically forked before you give up. I had a heater vale explode on me. No fun, but I did have a loss-of-coolant sensor so I noticed immediately. If you haven't lost bearings, you could do well by grabbing a lower-mileage head from a pick-and-pull. Ask on TurboBricks about a replacement head. I see B230FT heads for sale on there constantly The quality gasket set should run you around $75 from e-Europarts. I did my entire swap in one afternoon (between rainstorms), but mine is an 8-valve and I have *everything* on hand - including replacement studs and new manifold nuts. At >300K... it's kind of a toss up on whether it's worth your time. A full head rebuild or replacement would do well, but chances are you stressed, if not damaged your bearings. The turbo in-particular might be wrecked, and that could be your biggest issue. I suffered a similar failure (but ultimately averted disaster) on my 250K 8-valve 945 late last fall. I was not shocked when my head gasket had a tiny side failure me in March, and things have been fine since the gasket replacement. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1528621&rss=1 Thu, 17 May 2012 01:02 GMT Spook, Sorry to hear that you are having troubles. I have only my own experience on a 1995 to go from, but being a single in-tank pump, I'm unclear how much different this could be. Each time I've gotten into the tank (4-times now since 2005) I've found the string-trick to be useless. What has worked is a sort of "spiral" installation, where you carefully twist the whole unit to get it to fit into the anti-slosh baffle. I agree with Robert that putting the rubber ring into the tank fitting first is best. I used some silicone spray (on a cloth) to ease the sender assembly into place. Twisting seems to be the way to go. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1528619&rss=1 Thu, 17 May 2012 00:49 GMT Question is really why I should keep supporting a website where folks use the legitimate Volvo pictures archive to post and host photos and images of an inherently political nature. Folks are entitled their political opinions as much as anyone else, but why would any Volvo owner use this amazing community service (graciously maintained by Jarrod and sporadically supported by its members) to advance his or her own political agenda? I, for one, have more dimensions than the way I vote. Lately when I visit the front page I am treated not to interested technical pictures or standbys of fellow owners and their cars. I am instead treated to political images more befitting the Dredge report or the politics section of Huffing-a-ton Post. If folks feel that it is their personal right to keep loading up the archive with non-Volvo political material, Those people should not be surprised when they find themselves surrounded by nothing but yes-men and people who are specifically there to argue. Maybe to put it more bluntly. If folks want to keep pissing in the pool, they shouldn't be surprised when nobody else wants to swim in it. If that comes to pass, Jarrod should close shop because this great resource for lovers of Volvos will have been utterly ruined. http://www.brickboard.com/OPINIONS/?id=1528617&rss=1 Thu, 17 May 2012 00:42 GMT Prior to his death my Dad used to say that opinions are like rectal orifices - everyone has one, and it's usually not pretty. On a board where we talk about Volvos mainly, I wonder why folks feel the constant need to inject politics into everything. The stream of political BS being loaded into the image archive has me wondering if there ought not to be some moderation and why I should keep donating my hard-earned and fairly-taxed money to support to one or a few person's political agendas. Am I alone in this concern? http://www.brickboard.com/OPINIONS/?id=1528245&rss=1 Sun, 13 May 2012 04:46 GMT At the last minute the seller tells me that they are 240 springs.. so.. no go. May still go with a pair of overloads. I need to let the new handling "settle-in" before I muck with it much more. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1528243&rss=1 Sun, 13 May 2012 04:40 GMT Ha, you're correct! I downloaded the IPD instructions for the rear bar... and since I have a bar already (which they say is atypical for a wagon), I have everything to mount it. My 122 had a set of clamps but the 940 (now that I've been under there) seems to have everything. I think I've found a set of barely-used IPD lower springs as well... http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1528064&rss=1 Thu, 10 May 2012 23:56 GMT OK I had every intention of going with a set of lowering spring first. However a pair of IPD swaybars appeared locally and for under $200 - so I got them instead. These are old IPD bars, not blu, but silver - just like the pair on my 67 Amazon Wagon - the IPD labels are gone, but the quality and style are unmistakeable. I put the front bar on after work and took the car for a spin. The change in handling was instantaneous. There's still a little dip at braking and on some corners, but all of my turns were *much* flatter. HUGE improvement. Easily worth the cash I paid. Since My car is a '95 with a live rear axle, I've got a thin rear swaybar in place. Unfortunately my new rear bar lacks any and all mounting hardware so I could not put it on. Hopefully, IPD will sell me a mounting kit for the rear end... Still planning on doing springs, but wanted to report the initial improvement. Thanks for tunning in. <img src="http://forums.turbobricks.com/picture.php?albumid=234&pictureid=1774"> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1527978&rss=1 Thu, 10 May 2012 01:43 GMT Careful man, it almost sounded like you designed the Vega... http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1527775&rss=1 Tue, 8 May 2012 00:42 GMT Thanks Rhys. I'll keep it to one variable at a time. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1526526&rss=1 Wed, 25 Apr 2012 21:45 GMT The billy touring shocks were an "upgrade" that performed worse than stock. even with new cone bushings these things altered the handling for the worse. Major diving on stops, weird cornering, poor handling overall. Major disappointment. The fit in the car was really poor as well. Rear shocks were slightly wider and had to be levered into place. The gland nuts didn't fit completely and couldn't be tightened down securely over the struts. The bump-stops wouldn't fit over the strut shafts either. Overall, they were wasted money start to finish. Would NEVER recommend buying them. Maybe I got a bad set, it was enough to make me swear them off forever. It was also the first of many seriously disappointments with FCP "quality' parts. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1526444&rss=1 Wed, 25 Apr 2012 02:46 GMT That's some great advice guys. Thank you! Guess some IPD springs are in order. Anti-sways if I can swing it. Would I lose the normal carry capacity with lowering springs? I do haul with this car on the weekend, but it's a DD weekdays. I was thinking some overloads in the rear and something else up front. Folks on TB cut springs, but I'm not too excited about doing that. I don't encounter speed bumps too often, but the roads here can be poor. My 68' 130, with Billy's and Lowering springs was pretty rough, but survivable. Handling was amazing. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1526441&rss=1 Wed, 25 Apr 2012 02:40 GMT I really want something that doesn't shift so hard to the side when I'm turning. It's a daily driver and doesn't run around with a full load, yet the "shift" is really noticeable. I touched on this same issue last month when I started asking about rear end sag but I wasn't asking all that much about handling. Rear spring replacement is easy but the front's will be a bit of a weekend undertaking, so I'm hoping to narrow the problem before I take the front suspension apart. Some uncommon factory braces (hockey sticks) were suggested, along with a new swaybar Guess I'm just not entirely clear on why the car would be shifting around so much when the struts are still so new. Even "soft" struts should still dampen the spring action on corners and brakes - so even worn spring shouldn't change all that much, that quickly - or maybe they would? The Propus wheels also raise the car up a little bit. I'm wondering if the taller wheels have moved the center of gravity above the factory limit resulting in the "body roll" feeling that I've been sensing http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1526130&rss=1 Sun, 22 Apr 2012 17:10 GMT Car 1995 945 250k. SACHS/BOGE Shocks and Struts installed last fall, poly cone bushings, poly endlink bushings, lower OEM-style lower chassis brace, IPD/Cherry Upper strut brace. Tie rod ends are new Moog. The front end was aligned over Thanksgiving weekend. Also running custom hub-centric spacers with BBC/Propus wheels. Stock front and rear anti-sway bars. Ball joints were replaced middle of last year with quality TRW units when I replaced the struts. My previous struts were Bilstein Touring. Going "back" to Sachs/BOGE was an "upgrade" in both quality and handling. Symptoms Slight rear-end sag. not too bad, but I can see it in the photo below. <img src="http://www.brickboard.com/GALLERY/images/10462.jpg"> My rear springs have 250k plus, this car was the "hauler" for several years (lumber, bricks, rocks, etc). What I really "feel" is that the car dives a bit on corners. On left turn I can feel the right corner and side dip. I can also sense the perceptible shift of the car's center of gravity on such turns. I get a little bit of dip on braking as well. What's Going On? I'd normally blame the struts and shocks, but these are pretty new and don't show any signs of wear. That leaves me springs and anti-sways as the most likely culprits. However, I'm kinda tired at throwing money at problems and (usually) hitting the issue with the spread. I'd like to make some real suspension upgrades here and stabilize the car's handling. Are my springs to blame, or maybe the SACHS/BOGE struts are simply not up to the task any longer? Any recommendations/ideas? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1526111&rss=1 Sun, 22 Apr 2012 15:10 GMT Oh, sorry. I missed that you had already replaced both inner and outer tie rods as well as the control arms/coils. Before getting too far, should confirm that you do actually have a problem. It's steering odd, there's tire wear - it's making noises, or the like? My impression is that if the the rack housing is solid, but the rack itself is loose... and assuming that you can't see your steering wheel turning as you wiggle the wheels... sounds like a steering rack nearing the end of life. In my opinion, that's the sort of thing where one could get a trusted professional opinion. P1s are a bit different from the P80s that I've been working on. Hopefully a few others will weigh in, but my experience with those symptoms on with FWD models point towards the rack. Some less-likely causes/contributors could be: - an incorrectly torqued axle nut (if you got new CV axles recently) - incorrectly torqued wheel (rotor not seated fully) - loose or failing steering coupling (not transmitting movement cleanly from the rack to the steering wheel. - very outside chance it could be your ball-joints/control arms. symptoms are similar but not quite consistent with what you have described and you've already replaced them. - even less likely to be a loose bolt at the steering knuckle-to-ball joint. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1526101&rss=1 Sun, 22 Apr 2012 13:43 GMT Side to side wiggle (3/9 O'Clock) makes me thing Tie Rod end. That, or some issue with the axle nuts or wheel itself. I'm told inner tie rod failure is uncommon. My own C70 has 225k and the inner tie rods are in excellent condition. I have, however, replaced everything else (end links, control arms, tie rods ends, strut mounts, caps, etc...) everything except the inner tie rods. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1526069&rss=1 Sun, 22 Apr 2012 02:50 GMT Odd fun fact. Glad I don't live in Europe (Usually). I'll defer to your experience and check with my local dealer next time I pick up parts. The ignition switch is just another of the many weird half-arsed things that the PO did. The guy was certainly no "irv gordon". Recall my upside-down delta link bushing? Strut mounts neglected until the the strut punched a hole in the hood? crappy aftermarket wheels? I've discovered so many dumbass things, I'm really surprised it actually made it to 200K before I found it. Regarding the keys, the dealer parts guy explained that I indeed had the Valet key original to the car (only opened the driver's door), and that the difference was the shape of the end of the groove in the key itself. Valet key groove ends in an angle, master key groove ends in a square. He was right, the dupe of the valet key made on a master-key blank could unlock my door, trunk, and glovebox. It was a moment of euphoria. The ignition key cut was substantially different from the valet key confirming that my ignition switch was probably replaced with a junkyard unit. It'd be around $400 to get the correct ignition switch. -- I guess an option would be to get all the lock cylinders and VIN from a junkyard car and do a complete swap... http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1526055&rss=1 Sun, 22 Apr 2012 00:36 GMT Thanks for the reply Klaus. I'm aware that these keys are not chipped. Local dealer made some dupes for me - including a new master key. Dealer also confirmed that my ignition switch was replaced - which is why my ignition key is different from my door/glovebox/trunk key. Always suspected, but good to know for sure. I've been reading about fob programming on a lot of different forums. Some say 98 required a dealer tool, some say that the limitation doesn't come in until 1999 and later models with plenty of folks praising the 98. Still other folks complain about the receiver being really weak. A couple relevant bits about my car - DOES have the flashing alarm receiver light-thing in the middle of the dashboard - Also has a flashing alarm light in the center console (radio). These are supposed to be the requirements for self-programming. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1525999&rss=1 Sat, 21 Apr 2012 11:40 GMT My C70 is a later-model 1998 car with the mechanical timing belt tensioner and whatnot. I recent had some duplicate keys made and I finally wanted to get a fob for the car. I ordered part number 9166199 (no alarm) from Tasca Volvo (Dealer) giving them my VIN to ensure compatibility and correct fit. Supposedly you don't need a dealer to program a new 1998 fob, but so far the simple 5-turns, and remote button-press won't program my fob. Do the later 1998 cars require a dealer to code the fob? If so, what should the service cost me? However, maybe I've just got the wrong instructions. Any thoughts? http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1525981&rss=1 Sat, 21 Apr 2012 02:19 GMT Are you sure the head warped? There seems to be some dispute as to whether it's as bad a some folks immediately claim. Either way, the head gasket and head replacement is (as my own daughter says) "Easy-Peasy" I did a head gasket job (first time ever on a B230) on an EGR engine in a few hours. Guy was selling a B230 head with 50k on Turbobricks for only $200.00 just a couple weeks ago. You have many options if the bearings are intact. I've had that exact problem just once myself, but I've only recently started using zip-ties on the plug. I went 6 years without trouble on the plug. I'll counter the zip-tie recommendation with this suggestion. ALWAYS install the LOSS OF COOLANT SENSOR. Cheap, Easy, worth every cent spent. I do it to *all* of my cars and it's standard on later models. Mine has paid for itself easily. Pricing repairs and counting the times it has warned me of drained coolant has *easily* paid me back $1.00 for every $0.01 I spent installing it only just my one 940. Maybe as high as $10 for every $0.01 but that's pushing it... The loss sensor give you Peace of mind, and specifically prevents what happened to your daughter. It has saved me and my wife several times. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1525405&rss=1 Sun, 15 Apr 2012 19:25 GMT assuming you've checked for vacuum leaks other than the at the carb shafts? manifold gasket is good? no cracks in the intake, PCV hooked up correctly and operating? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1523535&rss=1 Sun, 1 Apr 2012 15:46 GMT I didn't know about the rex/regina cars until I got a 1990 745. Thing was a serious problem, all sort of weird little issues including the RSR gradually failing and stumping my mechanics for a couple months. That was back before I got involved on the BB and I was paying others to do my maintenance. Would be an easy fix now. The FPR problem on the 86, the RSR problem on the 1990 (and later a clogged flame trap leading to RMS blow out in October 2004) taught me that I couldn't trust most mechanics to know any more about my car than me. Each failure was preceded by expensive trips to a mechanic to get an explanation for X or Y. The RMS blow-out was the final straw for me trusting mechanics. I decided then - if I were going to keep driving Volvos, I would have to know more about them than any general mechanic. BB (and now TB) is the only way I've been able to keep owning Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1523268&rss=1 Thu, 29 Mar 2012 19:59 GMT just did the head myself. 248K. Hushers were hard and fractured. Put new ones one and the engine noise smoothed. Cheap minor thing, but makes things sound nice. Same deal with the valve stem "caps" on the B18s. Not 100% necessary, but nice to have. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1523171&rss=1 Thu, 29 Mar 2012 00:17 GMT thanks for the clarification. You may have fixed it - which is great, really - but do check your FPR - that thing can ruin your day and your pump. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1523170&rss=1 Thu, 29 Mar 2012 00:14 GMT You're right, I'm not being specific enough. Non turbos were two pump until the rex-regina single pumps came along. At that time the only two pump systems were Turbos. There's a fuzzy period when the regina went away and the bosch came back, circa 1993-1994, and the 95s were single-tank pump, as you say. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1523169&rss=1 Thu, 29 Mar 2012 00:13 GMT My concern is that you fixed a symptom, not the problem. What you describe sounds exactly like my 1986 745 GLE when the Fuel Pressure Regulator went bad. The FPR is on the fuel rail. It can fail, sending a fake low pressure reading to your computer. Your computer responds to the fake reading by amping up the pump, which has the real impact of dumping *way* too much fuel into your engine. This caused idle rough, hard start, and insane buzzing from the pump - which can seriously damage the pump. For me, it took about two weeks of increasing symptoms (including trips to lame-brain mechanics) before the car stalled and trapped me in rural BFE. My *new* mechanic figured it out immediately. My main pump even survived Check the FPR. Pull the rubber hose and check for fuel in the hose (should be none). Read the FAQ on the topic. Buzzing from a failing pump doesn't sound right to me. Echoing another response. Two pump systems are best known for failed in-tank pump causing the main pump to work extra hard when the fuel level drops below 1/2. What is your fuel gauge reading when the trouble starts? What year is this car? What fuel system do you have? Rex/Regina NA? Bosch NA? or Bosch Turbo? Bosch and Rex/Regina NA are single in-tank pump systems, I'm guessing you have a turbo? I have a 1995 NA 940 Wagon. It's a Bosch and it's a single in-tank pump. The fuel filter is under the driver's seat, little else. The pump failed around 200k. The failure was sudden and complete. Fine one minute, dead the next. In my experience these pumps don't gradually fail. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1522904&rss=1 Tue, 27 Mar 2012 01:33 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/