http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=20809 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 23:18 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 23:18 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Klaus: Once again many thanks, Andrew http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1373450&rss=1 Fri, 18 Sep 2009 18:59 GMT 96 850 wagon tailgate won't stay up due to old age. Other posts indicated a tailgate strut replacement is the answer. However, the 850 wagon I have does not have a tailgate strut. Instead, it looks like the tailgate is being held up by the hinges at the top. Any of you have this problem before ? Thanks, Andrew http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1372890&rss=1 Wed, 16 Sep 2009 17:44 GMT Hello Shannon: Following your suggestion, I traced the Blu/Pink wire to the harness connector that is connected to the NPN on the left hand side of the trans. The insulation of that wire was pinched in two small areas, 1/2" above the terminal. Some of the copper wires were in the open. Maybe during hot days, the heat generated by the trans and the weather, is high enough to cause this wire to heat up and increase its resistance, therefore the no crank condition. Andrew http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1359072&rss=1 Fri, 10 Jul 2009 14:30 GMT Hello Shannon: Much thanks for your suggestions. Since my electrical knowledge is limited, please help me with the following questions: 1) On your suggestion #2, is the "Interlocks" the same as the "PNP Switch" ? You also said " BTW, disconnect that connector.....", what is BWW ? What connector ? Where is this connector ? 2) How should I look for the interlocks service connector near the firewall? Is it square, open or with cover,and how many wires ? 3) What are the normal readings at the 30(red), 50(blu/pnk) starter terminals at different points of the stating process ? Many thanks, Andrew http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1358628&rss=1 Wed, 8 Jul 2009 00:25 GMT Hello Dan: The PNP was the amount the first things I checked out. The test procedures I did were 1) Foot on brake pedal, key in position # 2, then moved the drive mode selector through the varies postions. I was able to do this test without any problem. 2) The reverse light comes on when I select the reverse mode each time. 3) The PNP was removed, the black grease and contacts inside were cleaned, then repacked with new electrical grease. After doing these tests, I am quite certain the PNP is not my problem. Many thanks, Andrew http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1358528&rss=1 Tue, 7 Jul 2009 14:33 GMT 92 960 68k Bought this car from an older couple about a year ago. It starts every morning when engine is cold and ran perfectly under normal weather in San Francisco (55 -75F). But when the weather is hot (80-90F), and the car has been driven for about 30 minutes ( engine hot), it will not start again after the engine is turned off. The starter will not crank when the key is turned to the start position. You only hear a click. This happen only intermittently. Sometines the car will start again after waiting for 15-30 minutes without doing anything. And sometines it will start immediately with the help of battery booster. I have check or replaced the following items: 1) Battery -replaced 2) Positive and Negative battery cables - replaced 3) Stater - replaced 4) Starter switch - replaced 5) Alternator - check,charging at 14.2V 6) Safety Neutral Switch - check, step on brake, key in position 2, drive selector moves through the drive positions. Anyone came across this problem before ? Could this be caused by infamous Bosch wiring harness ? ECU ? Thanks, Andrew http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1358076&rss=1 Sat, 4 Jul 2009 04:37 GMT Hello Lee: My problem was not routing the T-belt over the Crank Sensor, which is located just under the crank pulley. This sensor is in a very hard to see area, specially for someone who is not looking for it. Niether Alldata nor Volvospeed pointed out the minor hint. Thanks for the help, Andrew 83DL, 88GL, 92 964, 96 855T http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1320344&rss=1 Fri, 19 Dec 2008 15:31 GMT Hello Lee: I did what you suggested, but still running out of room to install the tensioner, which is new with the piston in locked position(not engaged). To tighten the right hand-side of the belt, I locked the crankshaft with a 30mm socket, position the intake camshaft off one tooth to the right of the timing mark, fit in the t-belt, than move the camshaft to the left while holding the t-belt tight by hand around the water pump. Doing this tighten the belt some-what, but not enough. I even tried to reinstall the old t-belt in but run into the same problem of not enough room. Andrew http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1319989&rss=1 Wed, 17 Dec 2008 22:59 GMT I followed the timing belt replacement procedure posted on Volvospeed (www.volvospeed.com/Repair/timingbelt.php) without too much problems. But when I attempt to put the new timing belt in place, I found there is not enough room to install the tensioner when everything is in place. The space I need is about 1/2". I have done the followings: check new belt for length with the old (same length), check new tensioer with old (same), check new water pump with old ( same), tried to move the intake camshaft pulley to tighten the right hand-side of the belt (it can only move one tooth to the right before hitting against something). I have also tried to install the tensioner first before install the belt, the reselt is the same - not enough belt to go over the final pulley. The Volvospeed procedures look like the right procedures, I must be missing some tricks to tighten the belt before install the tensioner. I am saying this because the procedure for taking off the timing belt is to loosen the tensioner top bolt first, loosen bottom bolt, remove the top bolt, push tensioner away, remove belt. Installation should be the reverse. Please help if you done this before, Andrew http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1319938&rss=1 Wed, 17 Dec 2008 16:43 GMT Thanks for the help. I will checkout the replacement starter and report bsck. Andrew http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1303523&rss=1 Tue, 23 Sep 2008 04:38 GMT Many thanks for the help. I will checkout the replacement starter and report back, Andrew http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1303520&rss=1 Tue, 23 Sep 2008 04:31 GMT Thanks for the help. I will check out the replacement starter and report back, Andrew http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1303517&rss=1 Tue, 23 Sep 2008 04:24 GMT 92 964 with 65k Just bought this car from an older couple. A few days ago this car developed a problem of not cranking when it is hot intermittently. This condition usually happened when I have driven the car on the freeway (20-30 minutes),parked it for 5-10 minutes to pickup something. Upon returning and tried to restart the car (Shifter in park or neutral, key position II), all the dash lights came on, I hear a "Click", but the starter will not turn. If I keep trying for the next 15 minutes or so, the starter will eventually crank and the car will start. I have checked or replaced the followings: 1) Battery voltage 12.4v 2) Charging voltage 14.6V 3) Clean and reinstall battery cables and battery ground cable 4) Replaced Starter and Solenoid (1 unit) 5) Replaced Starting Safety Switch (PNP switch) I have not replace the ignition switch or trace wires for shorts because of limited knowledge on airbag and lack of wiring diagrams. Please help with your knowlege and experience, Andrew. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1302762&rss=1 Fri, 19 Sep 2008 17:18 GMT 1992 964 with IRS and Nivomat rear shocks ( M shock code ) After 17 years of services, the rear shocks are about to go, cracking noise and the rear end drops noticeably when parked over night. I am unable to find any good remove and replace instructions. If you have done this procedure before, please help. Andrew http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1300672&rss=1 Tue, 9 Sep 2008 00:47 GMT John: Just to make sure I am looking at the right part. Is this the black nut with marking " Max 6Nm ", and a plastic ring around it ? This part is just behind the right head-light as you stated. Many thanks, Andrew 83DL, 88 GL, 96 850 Turbo http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=828354&rss=1 Mon, 19 Jul 2004 04:37 GMT Anyone knows where the low pressure side a/c service valve for a 96 850 turbo wagon? Alldata indicates that it should be next to firewall, close to the Evaporator. But I can't find it. The only service valve I see is the one close to the Receiver/Dryer, at the fron passager side. I believe this valve is the high pressure side valve, not to be used for filling 134a refrigerant. Thanks, Andrew http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=827560&rss=1 Fri, 16 Jul 2004 16:43 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/