http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=20338 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 11:26 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 11:26 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. I have almost got the manufacturer of the OEM replacement part for the early style valve set to sell to me as a distributor. Almost. Stay tuned! DS http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387636&rss=1 Sat, 21 Nov 2009 03:00 GMT I've contacted Transpro, waiting for status. Apparently it's not dead yet. I suggested to them that I might be interested in stocking it. I tried to get Nick at FCP to carry it earlier this year, but he gave me some reason he could not get it. Will advise! DS http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387130&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 15:48 GMT I'm out of town or would dive into this a little deeper. Ready-Aire can be contacted directly. It would be good to get hold of them and see if they canceled the part. DS http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386882&rss=1 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 12:20 GMT It's the Ready-Aire 5864. Still shows good at Kragen/O'Reilly and I'm sure there are other distributors. Curious though. Glad I got a couple awhile back!!! Price has gone up to 70+. I think you can contact RA and get other distributors from them. DS http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386235&rss=1 Sat, 14 Nov 2009 15:29 GMT Windshields are one of the things I leave to the pros, along with AC and automatic transmissions. Several reasons: One, I absolutely hate dealing with the old, disgusting butyl sealant. Two, the new urethane sealant is expensive and a tube would last me for years. Three, I have on three occasions tried to remove a cracked glass. They always seem to come to pieces halfway through and leave me vacuuming detritus from the dash, interior, etc, no matter how many towels I put down. My glass guy changes a windshield in an hour, charges about $200 and leaves everything spotlessly clean. I am always amazed. I've found that Safelite sells the clips for the older moldings too, though I usually upgrade to the later seal, especially on dark colored cars. DS http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386232&rss=1 Sat, 14 Nov 2009 15:18 GMT I would recommend you do some shopping either on E-bay or turbobricks.com. TB has a classifieds section and there are often people parting out complete cars. They have a huge following on the left coast. You should be able to find someone who will pull, pack and ship you a set of dry struts if you haven't already. I can probably get you some here in California if not. Best of luck, DS http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386231&rss=1 Sat, 14 Nov 2009 15:11 GMT There are M47 trans 240s right up to the end, so all of them have the ability to take both a clutch cable and the pedal box. There are M46s in 7 series turbo cars. I've never seen one with the CPS cutout, but that's only because I've never seen an LH2.4 7 series trans. But they are out there, so there must be M46s with CPS accommodation. Keep in mind that the sensor doesn't actually mount to the trans. The trans has a cutout to clear the bracket the CPS mounts in. I have heard of people installing older M46s by modifying the bellhousing. I don't know about marking the connection between the tranny and the crankshaft. There is no "connection" as such. The input shaft of the trans is supported in the pilot bearing that you will install in the end of the crankshaft, so they touch, but connected? Perhaps the tranny and the driveshaft? Lots of people like to mark how the flanges of the driveshaft, diff and trans connected before taking them apart. You do need to make sure that the flywheel, with tone ring for the CPS is properly indexed to the crank. Your ignition timing depends on it. When you take the flywheel from the donor, determine where the flywheel is in relation to TDC. The flywheels are supposed to have an arrow on them to indicate position, but mine, for one, did not. The toughest part of the conversion is getting a pedal box out of a donor. Wow, what a project. Getting it into your car is only slightly easier because you just did the opposite. Buy a new clutch cable, and get a good quality one. I recommend Royal Purple Synchromax lube in either box. If you get the M46, don't forget to pull all the overdrive wiring. If you buy an M47, overfill it with oil by getting a full two quarts in or even a little more. Easier done while the gearbox is on the floor than in the car. Consider having the trans re-sealed before installing. On M47, at the very least, change the shifter seal. On either, make sure all the switches are in good working order before installing, especially the fourth gear switch on the M46. DS http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384060&rss=1 Wed, 4 Nov 2009 07:38 GMT Thanks Duane, good to hear from you. Whenever you have a chance, dpsam@sbcglobal.net DS http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381565&rss=1 Sat, 24 Oct 2009 02:58 GMT Yep, I see that on occasion too, and it's an option. I've got a line on a rebuild kit right now, bearings and such, that's good. So far nothing aftermarket on synchros though. I'll probably have to get those from Volvo--if they are still available. As recently as last year there were kits out there. No doubt someone scooped them all up. If that's the case, they are not advertising them as I cannot find anything on the web anyplace. Duane the OD Guru is still silent. Not sure if he's out of town, or out of business! Hope not. Thanks, Dave http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381474&rss=1 Fri, 23 Oct 2009 16:32 GMT Sent him a message---no reply! We'll see. DS http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381428&rss=1 Fri, 23 Oct 2009 13:42 GMT Anyone know of a good source for transmission hard parts? Synchros? Bearings? Thanks, DS http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381324&rss=1 Thu, 22 Oct 2009 21:10 GMT I just installed a cover in my wagon. Spent years looking for a blue one. DS http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381259&rss=1 Thu, 22 Oct 2009 16:06 GMT You can fabricate the mount out of a PVC pipe cap. Trim it to the proper height and use a Dremel or similar tool to cut out the rectangular hole. If you want to paint it, use a plastic primer first or Krylon's Fusion paint for plastic. Good luck! DS http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381238&rss=1 Thu, 22 Oct 2009 13:49 GMT I'm going to suggest this is the brush pack, but before you go to that trouble (and it comes out with two screws--alternator in place) I recommend you check the alternator ground strap. Since the alt is mounted in rubber or urethane bushings, there is a heavy ground wire that runs from one of the alternator through bolts, or a screw on the back of the alternator, to one of the mounting bolts on the alternator base where it bolts to the block. Also check the small wire on the back of the alternator for breaks. Craziness in the instrument lights is a common problem when the system is not getting a charge to the battery. One more thing: With your engine off, and the key on, make sure your alternator light in the cluster illuminates. It's part of the exciter circuit. DS http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381113&rss=1 Wed, 21 Oct 2009 23:09 GMT Hello in the snow, Joe. I'm a former CO resident, where Volvos are the car to own. Your rack has no provision for adjusting balance. You either have a sticking piston on one side or the valve body is damaged. I've heard of people taking their racks completely apart and discovering things foreign inside. I usually send them to a rebuilder. I've found s small shop here in L.A. that is very reasonable, though you'll incur shipping which will probably kill the savings. Contact me at dpsam@sbcglobal.net if I can provide any further info on them. In the past, I've located rebuilders by looking for places that service hydraulics for commercial trucks. DS http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381102&rss=1 Wed, 21 Oct 2009 22:39 GMT Hey Oscar. Can you e-mail me that picture? dpsam@sbcglobal.net Looks like the four contacts are placed radially around the perimeter, right? I'll check the diagrams, but I'll say it's either your rear defrost relay plug or the courtesy light delay relay plug. I'm checking diagrams now. Are either one of those functions out of order? DS http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380423&rss=1 Mon, 19 Oct 2009 05:06 GMT Hi Oscar. Is your car a manual trans? DS http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380414&rss=1 Mon, 19 Oct 2009 03:55 GMT Thanks Phil, I'll pass that on. DS http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380403&rss=1 Mon, 19 Oct 2009 03:18 GMT In addition to being black, it was sprung, but I managed to get it welded and working. Sold it to a customer in the Midwest. Bloody things are hard to come by, aren't they? DS http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380401&rss=1 Mon, 19 Oct 2009 03:05 GMT Oyl. Olive Oyl, Tony! Yuk yuk yuk yuk. Somehow you just can't spell his laugh correctly. Darn. DS http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380329&rss=1 Sun, 18 Oct 2009 20:51 GMT Anyone know of a good mech in North County San Diego area? Friend of mine looking for reliable service down thar. Thx, DS http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380326&rss=1 Sun, 18 Oct 2009 20:28 GMT Thanks, but impatience got the best of me and I kept messing until I got it. There are no legends on my end caps--and that's exactly what I was looking for. Or perhaps an arrow, anything. Finally I just tucked the ends of the cover out of the way and wound it tighter against the spring and the clicks. The trick is to hang on to the end caps as you put it back in. No doubt the little tab inside is supposed to do this for you, but as they are old, probably a little worn, they can slip and unwind if one is not careful. I'm wrapping up (no pun intended) by fabricating a new plastic grommet for the left side, which is missing. Now I have to see if I can do the same for our 850. Thanks! Dave http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380323&rss=1 Sun, 18 Oct 2009 20:14 GMT Some years ago I was lucky enough to find a blue cargo cover for my wagon. Unfortunately it arrived black (rats). Finally found a blue one about a month ago and I'm going to install it today. I recall from the black one that it is possible to re-tension these so they retract with more tension, but I also recall how easy it is to break the spring from the barrel. Anyone know the right way to do this? Thanks, DS http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380305&rss=1 Sun, 18 Oct 2009 17:30 GMT One thing about FCPG, to be sure, you have to call or e-mail them. The pictures on their site are not always representative of what's in stock. I buy them in bulk, so I always check first. Last shipment was just a few weeks ago and they are the blue Uros. DS http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380075&rss=1 Sat, 17 Oct 2009 05:38 GMT If you need, I can e-mail you the cruise stuff in Word format. DS http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380054&rss=1 Sat, 17 Oct 2009 03:39 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/