http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=20024 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 06:27 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 06:27 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Ah. I've used seam sealer that came in a tub - probably a pint sized thing, with acceptable results (that is, the seal is effective though not as pretty as what they did in the factory). When I switched from that to some sealer that came in a caulk sized tube, things got much easier, quicker, and the end result was nicer looking. Got it at the local full-service kind of auto parts store. Sorry, though, I don't remember what I spent exactly. Best, Cameron 444,122SC Rose City http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386841&rss=1 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 03:04 GMT Maybe I'm missing something -- but why not use seam sealer to replace the seam sealer that went missing? Best, Cameron 444,122SC Rose City http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386801&rss=1 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:55 GMT The hex side has to go toward the engine on the 1800 models. On the 122, it absolutely does not matter. Best, Cameron 444,122SC Rose City http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384733&rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 18:19 GMT Unless something has changed, the ipd HD mounts are standard issue 164 mounts. Nothing wrong with that, and they certainly work well - but you may not have to use spacers with this taller, thicker mount. Very good point re: shortening one of the studs. You'll be able to tell whether this is necessary on yours as soon as the mount is secured to the transmission bracket. Best, Cameron 444,122SC Rose City http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384415&rss=1 Fri, 6 Nov 2009 03:20 GMT Is it the same length as the transmission it replaced? Is the driveline the correct length? Ujoints in good condition? Is the pinion angle correct? Howzabout the clutch - shuddering and juddering are often the result of a glazed clutch... Or it might need a driveline mount. Still, though - the stock replacement should be more than adequate. There are more than one source for these mounts - the soft ones that are easy to install are crap. Get the factory part - it's harder to install but will last much longer. Best, Cameron 444,122SC Rose City http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384160&rss=1 Wed, 4 Nov 2009 20:03 GMT You don't have to change the driveline support based solely on a transmission change. The driveline support doesn't carry any of the weight of the tranny (at least it shouldn't!). Even if you're pushing a whole lot more power through the drivetrain, the standard mount should be adequate. Best, Cameron 444,122SC Rose City http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383533&rss=1 Mon, 2 Nov 2009 01:53 GMT 25" vs 28" - no idea. The only info I collected is the sheet posted on flickr, and that sheet is all I came away with. Best, Cameron 444,122SC Rose City http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381988&rss=1 Mon, 26 Oct 2009 14:44 GMT You can hear bad transmission gears at idle? I can't. I can hear them in 1st, 2nd and 3rd. Best, Cameron 444,122SC Rose City http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381761&rss=1 Sun, 25 Oct 2009 02:27 GMT Hi George - I'm 41. Younger than yourself, perhaps, but not too young to understand the mystic SUs. On Scott's car, the vent hole on the forward float bowl is venting fuel instead of air. It's not coming from the bottom of the bowl nor the jet, nor is the fuel line cracked or ill fitting. The car has the correct heat shield. After adjusting the float (which was waaay out of spec), the problem went away... for a very short time - maybe 15 minutes of running and two or three startups. After replacing the needle and seat with new parts, the problem went away again... until, apparently, a few days ago. Unlike Matt, I've seen more than one Volvo that has benefitted by the use of a pressure regulator. At this point, I'm thinking that might be the way to go for this car, as its fuel pump is a newer aftermarket device that I suspect produces more pressure than the old style needle can control. I also have some unused Grose Jets that I might try, though I don't think they're necessarily better or worse than the old style needle and seat. But first I think I'll finish enjoying the 'flu. At least it's not H1N1. At least I don't think it is. Any ideas on the ol' carbies you might have are welcome. Just a quick recap: fuel lines are not leaking jets are not leaking bowl-to-jet lines are not leaking new needles and seats are installed new bowl gaskets are in place floats properly adjusted ... about all I can think of that's left is fuel pressure. Any thoughts on what I ought to bring along when I make an (extremely rare) house call? Best, Cameron 444,122SC Rose City I once had a bird Its name was Enza I opened the window And in flew Enza http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381706&rss=1 Sat, 24 Oct 2009 22:44 GMT Finally found the flow bench sheet and posted a pic on flickr. You'll have to copy and paste, because I'm no good at posting links. It's here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/volvorelix/4040258783/sizes/o/ Best, Cameron 444,122SC Rose City http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381702&rss=1 Sat, 24 Oct 2009 22:24 GMT The C grind is what was available at the time that we were ready to install the SC. I know that VPD now offers a cam intended for the SC, which would certainly be a better choice. This was one of the things that fell into the ‘what’s available now’ category. The head was ported. Unfortunately (and as with many port jobs on these heads) it didn’t improve flow over stock on the intake side. John (Parker) didn’t do the head – if he had, I’m sure it would flow better. Somewhere I have the flow bench numbers... I think. When comparing to a stock head, we used an E as the baseline - which isn't the same as an F, but would (hopefully) give us at least some ballpark info. Re: the rods: I’ve heard (dangerous to put faith into rumors, I know) that these rods are weak and that I ‘should’ have used M rods. In the end, I think what I have is the setup that worked well based on the R&D that had been done up to that point. In the last several years, further improvements have been made that have resulted in better performance and economy than what I have. But I don’t want to start over – what I’d like to do instead is make the best of what I already have. It might not be optimal – but it’s still an awful lot of fun. If, at some point, I have reason to pull the head, I’d like to change both the cam and head. Until then, though, I’ll be happy to work with what I have and fiddle with things on the outside of the engine. Best, Cameron 444,122SC Rose City http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381293&rss=1 Thu, 22 Oct 2009 19:35 GMT Of course the carb does not know, but the assumption is that you picked the correct size carb & then the correct size chokes. - Those, too, were based on John’s recommendation after he’d made a number of refinements. My hope is that they’re what I want but I don’t have any data pro or con. Your problem is that DCOE is a really bad choice for what you are doing. Your DCOE flows enough air for at least 300HP, are you anywhere near that level of output? - No. 0 pump bleed is just not good for part throttle economy. Do you have the longest pump rod? - Yes. After it has the perfect needle, the SU is the best choice, but jetting SU's properly is a painful journey. - I really do like SU carbs, thus my interest in trying one – but I don’t know how available different needles really are – just haven’t looked into it. I know that there are a variety available, but whether or not what would work best for this application… not sure. - Also, a good SU and variety of needles to experiment with prices out quite a bit higher than the SC-prepared Mikuni. You spent big money supercharging, I wouldn't cheap out switching to a Mikuni. What lives under the supercharger? - 1971 B20; C cam, steel gears, ARP rod bolts and head studs, Venolia pistons +.030, plasma-moly rings (never heard of these until I received them), clutchnet 4 puck ceramic disk. F head flows approximately 30% over stock on the exhaust side, very close to stock on the intake side (this was a large disappointment). 4 into 2 into 1 header – whichever John was selling before he started making his own. Header outlet is 2.5”, exhaust is 2.5”. - I’d guess that the weak(est) point in this engine is that it uses stock rods. There are a number of things I’d do differently now that I didn’t know enough about when the engine was assembled, and a couple things that I did request that I don’t think happened. It’s not perfect. It’s awfully fun, though, and once we got through some teething pains has been really reliable. Best, Cameron 444,122SC Rose City http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380841&rss=1 Tue, 20 Oct 2009 20:56 GMT 'Completely lost' is probably pretty accurate, now that I think about it. Part of the problem is that much of the resource material available regarding Webers says things like "get the main jet right and leave it at that" or "the engine will be using the main circuit above 3000-3500 rpms." I've been mystified to think that a carburetor might actually know how many revs the engine is turning (or that any author might think they could convince me of such); but I've been under the impression that the main circuit's influence is more significant at lower rpms than what I think you're saying. You've probably seen or heard some of this 'information.' The acc pump and discharge are what was recommended for the SC initially. On the one hand, I'd like to work with what I have and see how good I can make it function. On the other, John (Parker) says that he's able to get substantially better economy with the Mikuni (in a 142 with 4.30 gears and M40, no less) than I am with a lighter car, 4.10 rear and M41. The Mikuni gets more interesting. I had considered playing with an SU also - but at some point, my interest in experimenting clashes with the amount of time I have available... and really, I prefer to drive the car than to fiddle with it. I appreciate your input - thanks - Cameron 444,122SC Rose City http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380691&rss=1 Tue, 20 Oct 2009 03:48 GMT It does use both throats, though from any external pics it probably doesn't appear so. I'll look through my pics to see if I have any that show the adaptor 'block' that fits between the carb and compressor if you're interested. The earliest (and still experimental) versions of the sc setup used really unusual jetting -- main jets that were equivalent to 300s, for example. At the time mine was installed, we were using (this is from memory, so may not be 100% right) something like 175 mains, 175 AC, F16 tubes... I don't remember what the original idles were... I think the chokes were 36 and aux vents 4.5. I also don't remember the acc pump size but I do remember that it has a 0 discharge. At this point, I'm happy with power but would like to get some improvement in economy. A/F meter tells me it's way too rich most of the time and I believe I can go smaller on the mains... so I've been doing that first, with the plan of experimenting with e-tubes next and idles last. Maybe I'm going about this in the wrong order? I can make 'em plenty fun to drive with DCOEs but I'm not highly qualified when it comes to fine tuning the things. Any insights you might have are most welcome. Best, Cameron 444,122SC Rose City http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379985&rss=1 Fri, 16 Oct 2009 23:16 GMT Mine uses a DCOE 45. I ran it for quite with jetting that was based on some of the earliest experiments (mine is a pre-production kit that was installed before the Mikuni or injection applications were available). Only recently have I begun to really experiment with different jetting... and I've found that I've been able to lean it out a great deal from where we started. Though not fully sorted nor tuned, it's extremely fun - and surprisingly easy - to drive. Best, Cameron 444,122SC Rose City http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379677&rss=1 Thu, 15 Oct 2009 20:05 GMT Yeah, they likely assist in fuel atomization to some degree (and the DGV certainly needs all the help it can get!), but I believe the primary intent of the water lines is to prevent the carb from icing when driving in cold weather. Best, Cameron 444,122SC Rose City http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379620&rss=1 Thu, 15 Oct 2009 16:45 GMT Re: support: The SC is supported from below by a bracket much like those fitted to the Djet cars. Uses the same hole in the block down below, and two bolts on the underside of the compressor. No doubt, this is a critical component. Best, Cameron 444,122SC Rose City http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379616&rss=1 Thu, 15 Oct 2009 16:35 GMT Wow - guess my ignorance has offended you. Thanks for the kind words. Cameron 444,122SC Rose City http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379598&rss=1 Thu, 15 Oct 2009 16:04 GMT All I get when I click the link is HTTP 404 Not Found etc etc ... maybe that's why nobody has offered any input? Best, Cameron 444,122SC Rose City http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379527&rss=1 Thu, 15 Oct 2009 04:05 GMT I have an M41 behind a supercharged B20 and haven't had any resulting transmission problems. Heck: if you're prepared to bolt it all together and then see what fails, why not leave the transmission where it is and see how long it lasts? And I can't say that it's the best setup, but mine is fed by a single DCOE. Not sure how hp or torque compares with the Megasquirted 1800, but last I communicated with its owner, we found that the two cars were very closely matched in terms of economy. If you get it put together, we'll all be very interested in seeing pics and hearing about your results! Best, Cameron 444,122SC Rose City http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379512&rss=1 Thu, 15 Oct 2009 02:08 GMT How does a lack of water lines to the intake manifold manifest fuel washing down the cylinders and killing the engine? Cameron 444,122SC Rose City http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379434&rss=1 Wed, 14 Oct 2009 18:28 GMT With new lifters on a new cam, you really do want to follow the break-in procedure as though it were a completely new/rebuilt engine. Start promptly, no idling, revs over 2K, half hour, etc. Best, Cameron 444,122SC Rose City http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378205&rss=1 Thu, 8 Oct 2009 23:37 GMT I strongly agree with Derek. If the cam and lifters are new, turning the engine over with only the starter (or by hand, or by some other means) will cause more harm than good. If you want to push oil through the galleys before starting the engine, spin the oil pump until oil comes out around the rocker assembly. ipd used to sell a fancy tool for this, but a long screwdriver works just as well - you're not trying to build pressure, just getting the oil everywhere it has to go. Set it up so that the engine starts as promptly as possible, keep the revs up (I like to vary between 2500 and 3000), and DON'T let it idle for the first half hour of its new life. Don't shut it down unless you really have to. Best, Cameron 444,122SC Rose City http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378191&rss=1 Thu, 8 Oct 2009 22:30 GMT Hmm.. I think that setting the timing by making the engine sound like it did last time the timing was set by something other than how it sounds will, at best, get you to the point that it runs well enough to drive around. I don't think anyone out there can optimize their ignition timing this way. After installing headers and tuning the engine, timing needs may or may not be what they were before, and the sound the engine makes may or may not be the same as what it seemed like it was... you get where I'm going... I'd get a timing light on it and ensure that the ignition is as perfect as you can make it before doing anything with the carbs. Maladjusted timing can lead you very astray when you face the SUs and problems compound readily. I don't have phenolic spacers, but if I did, I'd go ahead and use them to prevent heat convection from the intake manifold to the carbs. I haven't had any trouble, but it doesn't really get all that hot here very often and I don't push this tired old engine very hard. In fact, it's coming out of the car in the very near future. If you can see a gap between the carbs and the intake manifold (do I understand this correctly?), then there MUST be false air - which ruins the mixture and throws off the sound of the engine such that timing by sound becomes less possible. Bottom line - I doubt you really 'need' phenolic spacers; but you certainly need to not have any vacuum leaks and I'd definately set the timing with a light so that you know it's correct. Only then can you really address the carbs with any confidence. Best, Cameron 444,122SC Rose City http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378047&rss=1 Thu, 8 Oct 2009 05:58 GMT I'd look for some used drums - check with Chris Horn, maybe? agent_strangelove/AT/hotmail/DOT/com Are all of your drums damaged at the same time, or overly worn..? I've never had to replace all four at once... Maybe this is a good time to put some disks up front. Easier maintenance if nothing else. Oh: in response to your question: I've never heard of any other brake drum interchanging with the old Volvos. I've used 122 drums on PVs and that kind of thing, but I don't think there's anything from another marque that will work. Best, Cameron 444,122SC Rose City http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377747&rss=1 Wed, 7 Oct 2009 01:35 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/