http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=20 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 14:47 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 14:47 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. The wheel offset for the 850/S70's is different from the 700/900's so you may have a fitment problem if you decide to keep them for your 850 (the opposite is definitely true). -- Dave -940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386075&rss=1 Fri, 13 Nov 2009 19:13 GMT Sounds like you're on to it. It's funny, I was trying to relate your symptoms and test results to potential faults at the driver door as I had a gut feel that was a prime area for your problem. Have fun. Never hurts to clean and lube the other actuators and if you're rustproofing at the same time then that makes the minor effort of removing the other panels worthwhile. Now if you can get it working with a replacement part then great, but I'm not sure I clearly understand the extent of the PO's butchered repair job. A 5-wire connector on the actuator? I thought it was a two wire connector on the pigtail from the actuator motor and a separate two wire connector (C79) on the pig tail from the door lock switch. Ahhh, I'm having a vision -call it clairvoyant diagnosis. Some of the wiring broke in the hinge area. The original connectors were opened and the whole central locking harness in the door was pulled back to allow the broken section to be cut out and spliced (inside the car near the C144 connector block at the pillar if you're lucky). Now the connectors in the door didn't reach so all (male and female) got hacked off and 5 wires were spliced in to directly connect them to their components. More properly the door harness connectors should have been cut off leaving a pigtail and extension wires spliced in so the original connectors could be re-used. This also preserves wire colors at the ends of the harness making life easier for subsequent tracing. At that skill level I'd be pleasantly surprised if the splices were properly joined with a crimp or solder -more likely just twisted and taped. That would explain how that 5th wire came loose. If the splices are just twisted then be prepared for the ones at the hinge to pull open or the tape to come unraveled, possibly even shorting to something like chassis ground. I'm even having a vision of a PO frying the relay during subsequent testing at which point the person probably swore off the job, sold the car, bought a Toyota and lived happily ever after. The end. :=) Post back and give me a brief summary of how you make out. -- Dave -940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383481&rss=1 Sun, 1 Nov 2009 22:06 GMT Hi Randy, I think you're doing pretty good with that wiring diagram. Your test results at the driver door are fine. The driver door lock switch shouldn't be a problem as your yellow-black wire test (forcing the relay to do a lock) made no difference. You say you've got a good relay and the 12 volts you saw at the blue-red wire would seem to verify that. If the actuator motors are making an effort to lock (you hear a hum) then they're getting power (+12 volts at all their blue-red wires during a lock). That leaves me to wonder if they're either all physically frozen (I doubt it) or perhaps one actuator isn't working and is sucking so much current there isn't enough juice for the other actuator motors to do anything more than hum. I don't think just having one or more actuators simply jam up would cause this, although I can't swear to that. I think it would have to be one that has partially shorted windings (but not enough to take out the fuse). In any case, if one is drawing too much current and if you held the driver door lock down for a long time (or drove around with your elbow on it) then the relay could overheat and eventually fry (just like the original). Based on that theory, I'd open each door/trunk panel, disconnect its actuator motor then re-test at the driver door until I found the one that's causing the problem. If one door lock is stiffer than the others or one door actuator motor hums less than the others then start there. Leave each actuator disconnected as you go in case you have multiple problems. Make sure the button, linkage rod, actuator and locking mechanism operate freely -bend/lubricate as needed. Look for any evidence of a jimmy bar being used. You can try using your meter to check resistance through the windings of each one just as you did at the driver door. I can't tell you the normal range of ohms, but somewhere around that .23 ohm resistance would seem about right. Obviously zero ohms means a total short (that would cause a blown fuse) and infinite resistance means an open circuit (which shouldn't affect the other actuators or the relay). So you're looking for one that has abnormally low resistance. All the actuators are basically the same except for the trunk/tail gate, so don't get too excited if it's a bit different. I think the later 740 actuators are the same as the 900's -at least the call-out pictures in the 1989 740 green manual wiring diagrams are the same. If you're lucky the early 740 actuators just have a different shape so you may be able to cannibalize the guts out of one. I can't remember if they can be easily opened up or if you have to destroy them to get inside. Huh, I just noticed in the wiring diagram that my wagon tailgate lock has a cut-out switch. Is that where I have to hold the key in the lock then stand on my head without turning the key? I obviously don't use that feature very often. -- Dave -940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383380&rss=1 Sun, 1 Nov 2009 09:10 GMT Huhh? A B230FD was never a turbo -that was the B230FT. If a B230FD has a turbo on it then it's been modified. It's more likely you have a B230FT and a shop put a B230FD timing cover on it when the original got damaged. FYI The B230FD is a slightly revised version of the venerable NA B230F. It was used in 1993-1995 940's. The B230FD improvements included better piston lubrication with oil squirters (bye-bye piston slap) and a round toothed timing belt (supposedly improved belt life). The FD version used Bosch Jetronic LH 2.4 injection, EZ-116K ignition, EGR and Pulsair. Check out the <a href=http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volvo_Redblock_Engine><u>Wikipedea articles on red block engines</u></a>. A lot of information at Wikipedia and other sites is either too specific to the North American market or too exclusive of the North American Market. Here's some more <a href=http://people.physics.anu.edu.au/~amh110/volvo_b230_engine.htm><u>unofficial B230F information</u></a> (an Australian web site). Note that the later B230FT's also received the oil squirter improvement, but didn't get a special designation (there was no B230FDT). -- Dave -940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383374&rss=1 Sun, 1 Nov 2009 05:55 GMT See this recent thread on <a href=http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1327961/740/760/780/dash_lightsrheostat_question.html><u>dash light rheostat</u</a>. Same problem as yours. -- Dave -940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380405&rss=1 Mon, 19 Oct 2009 03:28 GMT The 94-95 945's (and possibly earlier years) had an in-window antenna and amplifier. They should be plug and play with your power antenna connector as the same connector was used in the 940 sedans with the power antenna. If you're lucky the window glass will even fit. Off to the yards!!! -- Dave -940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379472&rss=1 Wed, 14 Oct 2009 21:48 GMT With leather seats, such as yours, there's a relay clipped under each seat. Thermostatic control is solely provided by the relay. Relay failure is common, often most easily diagnosed by swapping in good used ones. Just because they're clicking doesn't mean they're working. The heater elements are woven into a thick fabric pad. These can eventually break/short from wear or damage and are normally not repairable. Before going shopping for used relays (grab a bunch as it's next to impossible to test for a good one), you may want to open up all the connectors under the seat and test for continuity through each grid. Refer to the articles in the FAQ on <a href=http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/InteriorSeats.htm#SeatHeaterFunctionalDiagnosis><u>Interior: Seats, Electricals</u></a>. Note that the heater grids are wired in series. It's not horridly difficult to figure the connector wiring without a diagram, but one would sure help. Tipping the seat up for access makes life a lot easier than groping around and using mirrors under the seat, but seat removal can be a bit of a chore, especially the first time. Seat heater wiring is the same for all 700/900's (with the possible exception of the odd wire color). There is a wiring diagram in the black Haynes 82-88 740/760 manual on page 316, quadrant Q3, that should at least give you an idea. To get the heater grids out for physical examination or replacement you need to open the rear/lower edge seem of each cushion and this is best done with the entire seat removed. Replacement grids are grossly expensive from Volvo. There are no aftermarket sources I've seen (unlike the 240 seat heaters). You can try finding ones in the yards (test them first), but good seat heater grids are most likely found in good seats, so be prepared to buy the whole seat and they won't be cheap. -- Dave -940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379463&rss=1 Wed, 14 Oct 2009 21:07 GMT Yes, it's backlit. It can be a pain to change. Refer to the article in the 700/900 FAQ Electrical: Instrument section on the <a href=http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/ElectricalInstruments.htm#OATGauge><u>Ambient Temp Gauge</u></a> for tips. -- Dave -940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379446&rss=1 Wed, 14 Oct 2009 20:07 GMT I think I might have replied to you before on this. You're trailer brake/turn light brightness problem is quite normal with those basic converters (under $20). I've run into this problem a number of times over the years. It's primarily a result of the transistorized design. As you noticed, you'll get significantly less power at the trailer sockets. With one cheap unit I was getting out as little as 6 volts -you should be proud of 9 volts. You are of course correct, wire run length, wire gauge and ground integrity are all factors. Trailers are of course very prone to corrosion problems -the bulb socket and trailer connector contacts should be kept clean and ideally coated in dielectric grease as a protectant. For the same reason, the trailer chassis should not be used for the ground circuit. You often don't have time to mess with all that on a rental trailer. Of course the number of bulbs on the circuit also matters, so even the lights on the car are slightly affected. The park light circuit is usually less of an issue as they normally pass straight through the converter -you can tap into the license plate lamp wire at the rear as that doesn't go through the bulb out sensor. The brake lights are on the bulb out sensor and (except for the early 240's with 3rd brakelights) you'll need to run a wire up to the front and get ahead of the sensor, such as at the brake light switch. Turn signals are not on the bulb sensor -you grab those at the rear. Provided the wiring on the trailer is clean, I can almost guarantee you the powered adapters will totally correct the problem. If you're only going to trailer occasionally or mostly at night then the cheaper converters may be quite adequate for you. Otherwise I'd spring for the relay driven powered units. You probably won't do much better than around $50, but shop around. In addition to trailer rental places and auto supply houses, phone around to local RV sales/service centers. Brands to look for are ModuLite from Draw-Tite, Tow-Power from Reese, LiteMate by Hoppy (Hopkins), BriteLite by Roadmaster, Max-Light and Calterm. As long as I'm on the topic, I'll address where to pick up the 12-volt power supply. The converter instructions will normally have you grab power directly from the battery. There's a simpler option at the rear tapping into the hot supply for the power antenna (typically a green-red wire) -it's a protected 15 amp circuit through fuse 5. If you're going to grab it at the front then it's simplest to grab it at the fuse panel at a free spade terminal of any circuit not on the ignition switch. Either tap into the hot side of the fuse and use an extra in-line fuse at the front for proper protection or tap into the cold side of any unused or lightly used circuit using a 15 amp fuse. I do not recommend tapping into anything on the ignition switch -I've wasted too much time trying to connect trailers and get the lights working forgetting that I have to turn the ignition on. In a wagon, if the everyday ticking of the relays bothers you then wrap the converter in foam or temporarily pull the in-line fuse. With powered converters, the relays draw such a small current you can often tap into a brake light at the rear without upsetting the bulb indicator. -- Dave -940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379297&rss=1 Wed, 14 Oct 2009 03:30 GMT Well, I'd start by suspecting the knock sensor. I've seen a very similar story where that turned out to be the problem. Once the accumulated engine deposits eventually burned off he lived happily ever after. Did you check for trouble codes at the diagnostic socket? The Check Engine warning lamp should come on if the ignition control unit (ICU) isn't happy with the signal from the knock sensor (or lack thereof). If the fuel ECU isn't happy with the knock sensor signal it does not turn the light on, but does set a code. Read the 700/900 FAQ Engine Sensor section on <a href=http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineSensors.htm#TestingaKnockSensor><u>Knock Sensors</u></a> and the <a href=http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm#LH24FuelInjectionFault><u>Engine OBD Diagnostic</u></a> section. It may not be a bad idea to check that the knock sensor connector is seated firmly and that the mounting bolt is snug (re-torque to 12-14 ft-lbs -exact numbers depend on sensor type, but that's close enough). Just curious, because it's a B234F. Any chance the timing belt is a bit slack under torque due to the hydraulic tensioner failing possibly even allowing the belt to have jumped teeth? Are your balance shafts disconnected? Any chance the timing for the balance shafts is set incorrectly? Any chance the retaining idler for the balance belt tensioner was turned in the wrong direction possibly allowing the belt to flutter and jump teeth? -- Dave -940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379241&rss=1 Tue, 13 Oct 2009 22:16 GMT Yes, that's exactly what I found in my '95 940 and wrote up for the FAQ. I didn't see any corrosion on the coils (just a protective layer), but the worn contact pads are certainly the issue. Mine were worn even worse than yours to the point they had jagged edges that stuck in the windings. Glad you had a '94 to get the parts from. As mentioned in the FAQ, I made do by crimping some thin nickel plated metal over the worn ends to make a new tab. Lots of fun cracking open that fuel level sender, right? -- Dave -940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378882&rss=1 Mon, 12 Oct 2009 06:29 GMT Yes, please describe what you mean by uneven pressure in more detail. Uneven "pressure", which I take to mean you've noticed uneven pad wear on the fronts, is normally indicative of frozen pistons or possibly binding brake pads. If you've replaced the m/c, lines, calipers and rotors there isn't a lot left to discuss other than air or a blockage in the system. With your triangular braking circuit, if both front wheels are affected then it almost has to be between the master cylinder and the distribution (junction) box. The booster should have nothing to do with "uneven pressure". The only pressure differential valve is the brake proportioning valve ahead of each rear brake. Any problem with those is usually a dirt blockage and it's difficult for me to imagine how this would affect the fronts. When you installed the master cylinder, did you pre-bleed it? Did you fully bleed all caliper nipples? Did you bleed in the correct order? If you only do a basic bleed for air at each nipple then bleed order is important, but if you've done multiple bleeds at each nipple and pushed through a lot of fresh brake fluid then not so much. A pressure bleed (as opposed to a brake pedal bleed) is always preferable (see the 700/900 FAQ). When you installed the new calipers did you tap the heck out of them while bleeding to make sure any entrained air bubbles let go of the caliper walls and floated to the top? The distribution box itself is usually not a problem, but if dirt/rust was pushed into the lines when the pads are retracted or when a master cylinder is changed then opening the lines at the distribution box and bleeding off some fluid may be necessary to clear a slight blockage. If you installed ceramic pads (or other high temp, no fade pads) then breaking them in with a series of high speed stops is important to prevent pad compounds from unevenly imbedding in the rotor surface. When new rotors are installed the surfaces should be thoroughly cleaned using brake cleaner meant for the job to remove all traces of dirt and protective coatings. For well used pads, a certain amount of uneven pad wear (inside vs. outside) is normal due to differentials in lubrication/friction (water splashing up on the rotors, air cooling, condensation, surface rust, dirt or whatever). For the same reasons it is normal to see slightly tapered pad wear. -- Dave -940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378881&rss=1 Mon, 12 Oct 2009 05:56 GMT They're not readily adjustable in the sense that you can put a pin into the opening and rotate the nozzle ball as in some of the earlier systems. But you can certainly adjust them using a tiny screwdriver to bend them up a bit or any suitable tool to bend them down. Sideways adjustment shouldn't be needed if you keep the tubes seated properly in the nozzle holders. Don't you just love it on the highway when the car in front of you has the nozzles aimed so high they go right over their car and hit your windshield. -- Dave -940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1375591&rss=1 Mon, 28 Sep 2009 07:50 GMT If you're getting heat when it's turned off then the heater control valve is likely going/gone -common failure. It's located in a heater core rubber hose between the firewall and intake manifold. Fix that first. The left/right air temp balance may just be the nature of the beast -it's not overly precise. Not withstanding my laziness to get a thermometer and go out to see if my 900 replicates your readings, your temperature problem could well be caused by some loose duct work and that could easily have happened during a heater core replacement (not uncommon for your vintage). Look in the FAQ descriptive article on heater core replacement. At the end of the article you'll see diagrams of the various air distribution assemblies. Yours will presumably be the "Heater unit with air conditioning -700 and 900 series". Note that for 900's, the driver side knee vent (U shaped) will not be present. There's just a single door in the air distribution box that opens air flow to the dash face vent chamber. You can see that there are three separate face vent ducts that come off that chamber so the hot air mix may be somewhat uneven at the best of times. I suppose it's possible that the face vent chamber of the distribution box may not have been adequately aligned when it was re-installed -you'd have to be a pretty shoddy workman (or workwoman). To properly inspect that you'll need to disassemble the center console and remove the right side panel -a bit of an adventure the first time you do it, but after that it's a piece of cake. It's also possible a face vent duct wasn't properly mated with the duct neck on the back of the dash outlets. Additionally those duct necks are clipped to the back of the dash outlets and those necks may have been pulled out if someone was attempting to remove a face vent. In that case there wouldn't be a "normal" flow of air out the vents. Unfortunately "normal" is rather subjective. So long as you're getting a decent volume of air out of each vent when the fan is on medium-high then I wouldn't be concerned. The next time you're working under the dash and have the glove box out and half the center console out then you can maybe reach up and check for loose duct attachments behind the face vents. You shouldn't find a problem there unless someone has been unnecessarily vicious -again that would be pretty shoddy workmanship. -- Dave -940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1375304&rss=1 Sat, 26 Sep 2009 20:48 GMT For 900's (seemingly all), the speedometer gauge ground (ground reference) is the brown/grey wire off pin 4 of the 14-pin connector behind the tach area of the cluster. This ground circuit goes through one of the large 53-pin connector blocks (not usually a problem area) at the driver side A-pillar, tucked up in the rats nest rearward of the hood release. This in turn goes to the ground rail on the underside of the electrical distribution unit (relay tray) in the center console which in turn goes as a black wire to the chassis ground rail at the right A-pillar behind the ECU (again, not usually a problem area). If the relay tray has been recently disturbed then it may well be worth pulling it to check the connection under the tray (pull off, clean up if dirty, crimp a bit if loose, reseat -beware of live wires under the tray). The FAQ suggests the terminal contact in the connector on the back of the cluster is a possible problem area (again, pull, clean, crimp as needed). Additionally, you may wish to check the sending unit terminal connections at the cluster. They're at the aforementioned 14-pin connector: pin 3 (brown/white wire, sensor +) and pin 5 (green/white wire, sensor -). Otherwise, suspect the speedometer gauge, sender, cluster circuit board or other areas as suggested in the speedometer articles in the <a href=http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/ElectricalInstruments.htm><u>Electrical: Instruments</u></a> section of the 700/900 FAQ. While I've got the manuals open I'll clarify the FAQ for 700 owners (at least those with later VDO or Yasaki clusters). The speedo gauge ground reference is the green/black wire off pin 11 of the 12-pin connector behind the clock area of the cluster. It goes to the left A-pillar ground chassis rail behind the kick panel (right A-pillar for RHD cars). -- Dave -940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1368323&rss=1 Wed, 26 Aug 2009 21:33 GMT There may have been talk about an ABS Wheel (Airedale Buffered Steering Wheel) safety system, but I think the Humane Society nixed formal testing. The phrase "thinning the herd" comes to mind here. LOL -- Dave -940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1368299&rss=1 Wed, 26 Aug 2009 19:15 GMT I wasn't aware that the SRS system was bright enough to let you know when 10 years had elapsed. See this section in the 700/900 FAQ on <a href=http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/ElectricalSRS.htm#Air_Bag_Lifetime><u>Air Bag and SRS Component Lifetime</u></a> issues. -- Dave -940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1368163&rss=1 Tue, 25 Aug 2009 21:54 GMT Right. The SRS lamp will only go out after the ignition is turned on if the control module is electrically totally happy with all the crash sensors, deployable devices and connections to them (like the clockspring). If it smells anything wrong then the SRS lamp remains lit and the whole system is disabled. As for non-destructive testing, to the best of my knowledge your system is new enough to have easily accessible on-board diagnostics (using Morse-like codes). If the procedures aren't in Bentley then check the 700/900 FAQ here -your 200 system should be similar to one of those described. This is what the dealer would have done to identify the control module as faulty. Note that even without a deployment, it's possible to have a faulty control module where the crash sensors have been damaged and are unable to reset if the car was hit from behind or the side (because SRS only deploys on detecting frontal impact). Bentley is right, you should absolutely avoid doing any ohmmeter testing on the SRS system unless you *totally* know what you're doing and all deployable devices have been safely disconnected. When working on the SRS system you must first disable it by disconnecting the negative battery cable (wait a minute or two for the standby power to dissipate) and officially you're then supposed to disconnect the power supply connector(s) to the control module before touching anything else. Stray voltage, static discharge or arcing (when opening/closing connectors) can theoretically cause an accidental deployment risking personal injury or compromise of SRS integrity. Yes, just swap in the new controller. It will hopefully reset itself automatically within a few (like 15) seconds of switching the ignition on. If not, you may need to manually reset the controller (see Bentley/FAQ). ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Because I have an open identity and this is an SRS topic, I feel the need to occasionally remind you and others of the disclaimer that neither the brickboard nor any contributors assume any liability of any kind for actions or inactions based on any advice given here, whether correct, incorrect, errors of omission or otherwise. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- -- Dave -940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1368051&rss=1 Tue, 25 Aug 2009 08:05 GMT Classic symptoms of a possibly bad AMM. Pull the connector off the AMM (with the ignition off). Try to restart. If it can't see the AMM it will go into "limp home" mode where it attempts to run without knowing air flow. If the engine now starts and stays running (albeit a bit rough) then it's almost certainly the AMM. -- Dave -940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1364383&rss=1 Fri, 7 Aug 2009 01:07 GMT I'll bet on your TPS adjustment. Read <a href=http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1358080/940/960/980/V90/S90/940gle_high_idlehelp_run_ideas_throttle_body_adjustment_tb_tps_switch.html><u>this recent post</u></a> for proper procedures. -- Dave -940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1364382&rss=1 Fri, 7 Aug 2009 01:00 GMT A bit of a puzzler, eh! As I have the green electrical manual for your car, let's see if I can help you unknot this beginning with some simple tests. Start with a quick check. Have the ignition off (KP0) with the key out. Turn the light switch on -the radio or other dash lighting should be on. Now turn the light switch to the park/tail light position -the dash lights should stay on. Turn the ignition switch on (KPI) -the dash lights should stay on. If all tests pass then the ignition switch is okay and the headlamp switch is probably okay. Otherwise they both stay on the suspect list. Initially, you had the parking lights working normally, but the tail lights were stuck on. The ignition switch, light switch and headlamp relay *cannot* cause that symptom. They can arise from a faulty bulb sensor relay (the park lights do not go through the bulb out sensor). The other possibility is a fault (short) in the parking/tail light wiring, such as at the headlamp relay connector under the relay tray (front row, second from left). Overcurrents (high intensity headlights) or high resistance at a marginal/corroded connection can melt the headlamp relay socket -not unknown. Pull the headlamp relay and inspect for signs of overheating in the socket. Better yet, pull the relay tray out and inspect under the tray for loose wires or signs of overheating. You can reference the 1995 green electrical manual pp 76(non-North America) and 78(USA/Canada) for all this. As your symptoms later changed, either the bulb sensor or the wiring has an intermittent fault. It doesn't matter what else you find, I'm pretty sure one of these two areas is almost certainly a problem. Currently you've got headlamps and parking/tail lamps stuck on with the key out (ignition switch KP0). The green manual gets a little ambiguous here as the headlamp circuitry shown on page 68 is listed as just for Canada so one might assume the headlamp circuitry shown on page 64 applies to the USA, BUT notice that the light switch shown on page 78 (USA/Canada) is not the same switch as shown on page 64. Thus the headlamp circuitry on page 68 should be for USA/Canada (and by 1995 both markets had identical DRL systems AFAIK). Knowing this you can now do some fault tracing with a DVM. It's probably easiest to start by checking for a faulty headlamp relay. Pull the relay (front row, second from left). On the relay, with an ohmmeter check for continuity between terminals 30 (pin 1) and 87 (pin 3), then between terminals 30 and 87b (pin 5) then terminals 30 (pin 1) and 86 (pin 2). If any of these show a closed circuit (close to 0 ohms) then the relay is faulty (stuck closed). If you bang the relay hard it may temporarily unstick it. If the light switch or ignition is still suspect then you should next test at the headlamp relay socket with a voltmeter (one lead to chassis ground, like the lighter socket). Probe at pin 2 (corresponding to relay terminal 86). With DRL, the headlamp relay is only supposed to be energized when the ignition is on -you should see 12 volts. With the ignition off and the light switch on or off (but not in the park light setting), you shouldn't be seeing power. At pin 1 (terminal 30) you should see power no matter where the ignition or light switch. If all that's true then the headlamp relay (and likely the socket) should be okay meaning the problem is the ignition switch, light switch or wiring. For the next test, you'll need to access the back of the light switch. The easiest way is to free the light switch panel. As you seem intent on defeating DRL, you'll want to pull the panel in any case. Be careful pulling out that panel to avoid damaging the dash -there's a large spring tab on the back of the panel on the left side that needs to be held firmly depressed inward (from behind the dash) while you swing the panel out at the left allowing you to release the grip tabs at the right. It is possible to depress that spring clip by sliding a blade behind the front of the panel, but the risk of damaging the dash is high unless you know what you're doing and that you're pushing the spring clip in far enough. Pull the connector off the light switch. With the ignition off, you should not be seeing power on the single yellow/white wire on terminal 4. If you do, then the ignition switch is faulty. If you don't then either the light switch is faulty, or the headlamp relay or wiring to it is faulty. Before condemning the ignition switch, further testing of it would be a good idea. BTW If you're intent on defeating DRL (and I certainly don't recommend this) you don't need to cut any wires -just substitute one of the earlier style *DRL* switches (they're plug and play). -- Dave -940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1364376&rss=1 Fri, 7 Aug 2009 00:43 GMT Go read <a href=http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1169177/940/960/980/V90/S90/940_headlights.html><u>this old</u</a> thread. -- Dave -940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1363532&rss=1 Sun, 2 Aug 2009 21:38 GMT After you've checked the motor mounts, go to the section on <a href=http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/TransmissionAuto.htm#Automatic_Shifter_Is_Loose><u>Automatic Shifter is Loose or Moves</u></a> in the 700/900 FAQ then scroll down to item #4 on shifter linkage adjustment. -- Dave -940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1360506&rss=1 Sat, 18 Jul 2009 00:43 GMT http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1360502&rss=1 Sat, 18 Jul 2009 00:22 GMT The open electrical connectors on the headlamp wiring harness (normally zip tied) are for the headlamp washer wiper -standard on the 960's. The only other loose wiring under the front bumper would be for a missing ambient temp sensor. See the FAQ for more information on <a href=http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/ElectricalLightingHorns.htm#MountingFoglightsto90plus740><u>fog lamps</u></a>. -- Dave -940's, prev 740/240/140/120 You'd think I'd have learned by now http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1358178&rss=1 Sat, 4 Jul 2009 20:57 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/