http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=19793 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 04:47 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 04:47 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Good car! One motor moves front seat cushion up/down, another moves rear seat cushion up/down. The rest is correct. Probably just a switch problem. And that is a problem! Those little micro switches have very tiny springs that will fall out when you take it apart! It is better to just get another seat switch assembly from a junk yard. 3 torx screws to get it out. And no danger about the air bag in the seat going off. That large button takes a good beating before it goes off. My front/back button died on my 1998, well it worked on odd numbered full moons. It failed to go forward for the most part, so my 5'3" daughter's memory position was used to make it go forward. Klaus -- Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1387646&rss=1 Sat, 21 Nov 2009 03:47 GMT What year is it, it makes a difference. Do any of your memory buttons work? Which switch doesn't work? There are 4 separate motors under the seat. The seat air bag is on the upper side of the seat, behind the SRS lable. It is activated by a collision button under the cover housing the seat switches. You do not have to disconnect the battery, just don't hit the button with a hammer or drop the seat if you take it out of the car. Until 2001, the side cover for the seat switches pulls up on the front and then pushes back to come off. Inside the cover is a small red plastic thing which can be placed behind the large button to keep the button from depressing and setting off the seat bag. Klaus -- Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1387634&rss=1 Sat, 21 Nov 2009 02:58 GMT I like her "spunk", but she needs help. While the dealer is not up to standard, her Indie isn't either. She has a long road to go down and I wish her luck. If there is a headgasket leak, a compression test is warranted. If the heater hoses are leaking, show her the leak and do a pressure test on the cooling system. The replacement tranny is broken??? The dealer needs to stand up for that one. Klaus -- Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1387601&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 23:23 GMT Hi Caleb, We were waiting for your return to the fold :) The only serious item could be the auto tranny, if it was abused by teenagers. Of course the front suspension does all of the work so there could be worn strut mounts, bushings, steering stuff, engine mounts, and clogged PCV systems. Most of these are fairly cheap and easy to replace/repair. Do look for a car with maint history, the Tbelt gets changed at 70K intervals. Klaus -- Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1387592&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 22:56 GMT You can eliminate the fuel pump relay from consideration by jumpering it out of the circuit. Remove the relay (#103) and look next to the pins in the base. Molded into the plastic you should see the numbers 31, 31b, 15, and 87. Fashion a jumper wire and jumper between the socket connections that correspond to pins 15 and 87. If the car fires right up your relay is bad. If it still doesn't run then you may or may not have a problem with the pump. The only way to tell for sure is with a fuel pressure gauge. If the pump and regulator is working properly you should see 43.5 PSI at the end of the rail. ...Lee The above is the link I was refering to. The relay is in the fuse panel, engine compartment. Have the engine off when you use a short piece of insulated wire to make the jump. This "jump" will turn the fuel pump on so long as the key is in the ON position. Do not drive this way, because if you have an accident the fuel pump will not stop running until the key is turned OFF. Klaus -- Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1387586&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 22:09 GMT It could be just the igntion switch failing and easy to replace. The next time it happens, jiggle the key slightly and see if that makes a difference. Also check the leads on your battery, they need to be tight and clean. Klaus -- Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1387469&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 05:21 GMT If the air guide/splash guard is still on your car, take it off. Clean it and leave it in your garage for a day or 2. The oil cooler lines do not go near the oil filter, they go from the front of the engine to the right side of the radiator. There is a weep hole at the bottom of the intercooler which will let collected oil drain out when the turbo is boosting. This is normal. It usually runs to the driver's side of the air guard and then drops out by the bottom intercooler hose. Klaus -- Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1387466&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 05:16 GMT Replacing the lock is a real PITA. Besides, you have to order a new lock from the factory and ruin your plug-in drill bits. Graphite, graphite, graphite. Take the cover off the steering column to expose the lock and oil any moving part you see. Don't forget the small interlock cable in the rear. And don't break the security ring in the back. Klaus -- Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1387463&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 05:10 GMT Do a search for torchlight and find out the bad news. -- Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1387457&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 05:03 GMT Hmmm. You could check A-7 for the odo reading in case someone replaced the instrument cluster. Still, no bargain at that price. Klaus -- Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1387456&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 05:02 GMT Light bulb???? Did you move the intercooler pipe to get the spark plug cover off? Is it back nice and tight? ANY air leak will cause a too rich condition = P2188. Check any other vacuum lines for leaks. Your old plugs are worn out, get them out of there and put the new ones back in. Make sure the coils are seated properly and the wires plugged in tightly before putting the cover back on. Klaus -- Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1387438&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 01:59 GMT The buzzing sound is suspicious. If there are no codes, it is usually a fuel delivery problem. Try this some morning when the car won't start and you have a little time to experiment: http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/index.htm?id=1265592 The fuel pump relay is in the fuse box tray, #103 stamped on the top. Klaus -- Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1387428&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 01:29 GMT The heater core is about a 2 hour job. Go here and take a look: http://www.volvospeed.com/vs_forum/index.php/topic/9717-pics-of-heater-core-install/ I have no idea why the glove box is removed??? Just remove the side panels to find the leak. You can still use the car with the panels removed. Then order the parts you need. If the oil cooler lines are leaking at the radiator, I suggest first trying to replace the O rings and use hose clamps to gently tighten the line couplings. Be careful, the radiator couplings are plastic and can crack. Do NOT use hardware store hose clamps, they will shred the lines. Klaus -- Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1387424&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 01:15 GMT I just got this in my email. You might want to keep it in mind if you are contemplating a trip to the dealer to fix some software. VIDA System Maintenance - please be advised: During the weekend of November 20-22 the datacenter in Gothenburg, Sweden will be powered down for maintenance. A maintenance power down will affect the servers controlling some aspects of VIDA, including the vehicle database, PIE. This will happen from Friday Nov. 20, 2009 9pm EST - Sunday Nov. 22, 2009 12:00am EST During this time, access to VIDA Software Downloading and Confirmations will not be possible. Thank you. -- Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1387395&rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 21:39 GMT If it is a deal, go for it. The front suspension and wheels are different, require more maint but is cheaper for some parts. Tbelt is every 50K, as are plugs, cap&rotor, and Sbelt. The 5 speeds are nice, expect the clutch to go to 200K. The PCV system does need to be watched for crud buildup Klaus -- Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1387394&rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 21:37 GMT Emailed VPD last night and got this response today: Closed most of last week for an out of town trip and sick the last few days, but other than that still up and going. Regards, John Vintage Performance Developments He is closed next week. Klaus -- Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387377&rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 19:34 GMT Understandable, now that she is resigned to dying, she want to get life over with. She has 24hr care at home, she has a few visitors to help keep her mind off her waiting, all of her bequests are in order. Very little pain due to the right side numbness, speech is very hard, her brain is still sharp as a tack and she thinks Democrats are great :) I am waiting for Susquehanna Spares to respond to my email, as are others on the BB, before placing an order. Klaus -- Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387350&rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 17:51 GMT Costco is now a Volvo dealer???? -- Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1387296&rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 05:21 GMT Very rare. Look for an "R" with a 6 speed, you will have better luck. Klaus -- Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1387294&rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 05:20 GMT The heater core is to the right of the gas pedal. You need to pull the panel off to determine if there is a leak. Antifreeze flows through the core at all temps, it is the ducting that determines if you get heat or fresh air. Most often, it is the O rings that go bad in the oil lines. New lines can be ordered online at FCPGroton or http://www.autohausaz.com/ or other places. Some dealers offer online discounts as well. Klaus -- Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1387292&rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 05:17 GMT That flashing arrow is a transmission error, not Winter mode which is a steady arrow. Flashing means there is a problem and the computer will let you drive in "limp home mode". It is not intended for normal use. You could check the codes in the A-1 port. But you probably have a failed PNP switch and cooked tranny fluid by now. Using W mode is only for emergency take off on ice, not for any other time. Use "S" around town and "E" for the highway, "S" gives you higher rpms before shifting which helps keep the valves clean. Klaus -- Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1387291&rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 05:11 GMT No amount of penetrating oil was going to work. There was solid mulch covering the rear side of the bracket, the bolt snapped off. Considering the 45degree bend in the top half and a broken weld that holds down the top cover, it is beyond my abilities to repair. I did save the rubber top piece. Now I am looking for one that is not bent! I guess the classifieds are in order. Klaus -- Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387228&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 23:26 GMT Unobtanium is an old Roman term :) -- Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387205&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 21:20 GMT Depends. By complete, do you mean the arm rest/rear ash tray/front cover without window switches? $70-$100. Fair means that you both have to be satisfied, start sending emails, or, better yet, call him. Shipping is tough, it will be a large box. USPS is usually faster and cheaper than UPS. Klaus -- Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/AWD/?id=1387195&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 20:50 GMT Someone in the past hit the RR bumber overider, with the rubber top, and managed to bend it. It now rattles a lot and is loose. My intent is to pound it out so that at least the sides are straight and it no longer rattles with every bump. I sprayed PBBlaster into the overider but to no avail. It appears to be rock solid. I don't want to destroy this nice piece of chrome with over-torquing. Is there something I should be doing differently? Removing the whole bumper seems over kill and I will still have this rusty bolt problem. Besides, it seems it is full of leaves,twigs,dirt,etc. Klaus -- Proud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387177&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 19:16 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/