http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=19413 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 05:34 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 05:34 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. I've always had good luck with the Starla exhaust systems from FCP Groton or eEuroparts. Of course, we live in a state (KY) with little snow. Our roads ger only 2-3 saltings per year. It sounds like you live in the snowbelt. PS - I like the wheels on your car! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1184901&rss=1 Tue, 22 May 2007 12:34 GMT Dman - I'm impresed by your your friend's, ah, enthusiasm for welding. That thing ain't gonna leak, that's for sure. However (and please don't take offense here) that has to be the ugliestmuffler I've ever seen ;-) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1184799&rss=1 Mon, 21 May 2007 23:45 GMT Thanks, S-P-H, I have been contemplating this job for a while. Can't wait to see if the glass comes out in one pice. Good luck! Glen http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1184796&rss=1 Mon, 21 May 2007 23:38 GMT Dru, I do not feel that this is a fair price, even if they pull it. Yards around here have gotten outrageous. Baesler's Salvage (probably spelled incorrectly) near Cincinnatti, OH, wanted $40 for a single plastic headlight assembly from a '1990 244 (I pulled it muself). When I explained how much cheaper a used headlight was on eBay, and how much cheaper a new replacement lens from FCPG was, the counter guy agreed to drop the price to $35. He justified the cost by as being comparable to what his competitors were charging. If uncracked, this dash is probably from a car that was kept out of the sun. Still, it is at least 15 years old, and it will crack soon. If you REALLY want it, offer them $50. If they say no, watch eBay or consider oone of the dash caps, which cost about $100. I haven't used a cap, so you might want to do a BrickBoard search to see what people's experiences have been. Good luck. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1183861&rss=1 Thu, 17 May 2007 12:43 GMT Arthur, I also had a persistent 231 in an '89. I also changed everything you mentioned and also the AMM. The problem finally went away when I replaced my pink label 561 ECU. You might also try resetting the ECU. Unhook the battery for 15 minutes or pop the ECU fuse (I'm not sure which one it is). Good luck. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1176800&rss=1 Wed, 18 Apr 2007 18:44 GMT Art is a six sigma BrickBoarder, no doubt about it. He's helped me mor times, directly and indirectly through archives, more times than I can count. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1175315&rss=1 Thu, 12 Apr 2007 18:13 GMT Ryan - Thanks for the note. I put the original parts back in except for the ignition components; figured the swap-out unequivocally established that I have a good spare ECU and FPR for the next time I need to do a solve a problem. I also reset the ECU after changing anything at all. I'm pretty sure the fault lay with the pink-label 561! Glen http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1175225&rss=1 Thu, 12 Apr 2007 11:26 GMT The check engine light came on in our pretty burgundy red 1989 244, and from tailpipe odors, I could tell she was running rich. Gas mileage had dropped to about 14 mpg. Armed with lots of BrickBoard knowledge and a little personal experience, I began trouble shooting. I read the OBD codes: 231 and 113, I believe (fuel trim/lambda control, too lean or rich at part load – duh, my nose narrowed it down farther than that!). Because of the lambda reference, I first checked the O2 sensor. I looked for wiring faults and even checked the sensor voltage as described in the BB archives. It seemed to be functioning properly. Still, the OBD codes seemed pretty certain, so I pulled the sensor from the cat, cleaned the tip using fine steel wool, and reinserted it. I then reset the fault codes and started the car. The light stayed off at idle, but as soon as I began driving and accelerated it came back on. I considered just purchasing an O2 sensor, but instead, I put in a used one from my spare parts cache. No change; and I was finally ready to give up on the O2 sensor. I then checked for vacuum leaks, made sure all cylinders were firing by sequentially removing spark plug wires, replaced the plugs and distributor rotor/cap, checked the flame trap and associated plumbing. I even checked that little brass fitting that screws into the intake manifold. A year ago we got a check engine light on a 91 244 (different OBD codes, though) and I found that fitting almost completely clogged. I cleaned it and the problem went away. Back to the problem with the ’89! I next cleaned the throttle body, including the little holes near the butterfly valve. It was rather dirty, but the problem did not go away. I changed the air mass meter, still no solution. Well, now I WAS getting concerned. I did not want to go to the dealer. As somebody who is supposed to do engine design research, I would have never lived it down if I had been defeated by an idiot light. My thoughts turned to the fuel system. I changed the fuel pressure regulator; again, no change. I considered the injectors. However, because the check engine light seemed to come on at both very low acceleration rates as well as normal rates, I decided the injectors were probably ok. My (probably spurious) reasoning: the CE light had just began coming on, so if bad, the injector(s) must have only just gone out of spec. They should still be able to properly meter the fuel at part load. Finally, decided to change the ECU. The one in the car was a pink label 561. I replaced it with a 951 from the parts box. That finally fixed the problem! It has remained fixed for a month now. The moral to the story is to be wary of those pink labels ECUs. Even if the car continues to run. Happy bricking! Glen http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1175095&rss=1 Wed, 11 Apr 2007 23:24 GMT Thanks, Ryan! By the way, Athens is one of the most beautiful places in a state - Ohio - filled with beauty. I attended Buckeye Boy's state at Ohio University in 1976 and have never forgotten your lovely city. Glen http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1173888&rss=1 Sun, 8 Apr 2007 01:30 GMT Thanks, Rob. Great answers and great tips. Now I just have to find the replacement tranny! Glen http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1173762&rss=1 Sat, 7 Apr 2007 17:07 GMT Thanks for the tips, Ryan! I did not know that trannys with the lock-up torque converters were even an option. Also, I had completely forgotten about the crank position sensor. Glen http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1173174&rss=1 Thu, 5 Apr 2007 20:19 GMT Three questions for you 240 automatic transmission experts: 1. Our 19991 244 needs a new auomatic transmission, and I am searching hogh and low for one. Occasionally I come across AW71s available. The curent tranny is an AW70. Will an AW 71 fit in without modification? 2. What would be a reasonable price for a used AW 70? 3. At what mileage would you never bother buying a used AW 70 (100k? 150k? 200k?)? Thank you all! PS - If anybody has an extra AW 70 they want to get rid of, e-mail me at jsmith****hotmail.com (replace "***" with "294"). I live near Louisville, KY. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1173140&rss=1 Thu, 5 Apr 2007 17:45 GMT One of our 244s needs a new transmission, the current one is slipping like crazy. If anyone has a good one for sale, please let me know your price. I live near Louisville, KY, so if ypou are in driving distance, that would be great!. My email address is: jsmith***@hotmail.com; replace the "***" with "294". Thanks. http://www.brickboard.com/BUYERS/?id=1173136&rss=1 Thu, 5 Apr 2007 17:30 GMT Rusteebrick - My heart teally dropped when I read no. 7. The rear end is about the only part of a brick I haven't changed/repaired yet. I hope you have things squared away now. GP http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1171293&rss=1 Thu, 29 Mar 2007 18:13 GMT Check the gaskets between the exhaust manifold/header pipe and between the header pipe/cat. AN air leak upstream from the 02 sensor will make the car run rich. You may also want to check the throttle plate. Is it excessively dirty? Is it it closing properly? Check the hose that brass fitting in ith intake manifold that runs to the flame trap. It seems to be prone to clogging and caused a check engine light on one of my 240s. Specking of CELs, if you have one, check the disgnostic codes. The 700 FAQ describes tells how. In fact, you might qant to check the codes even if the check engine light is not on. Pull all four plugs and inspect them side-by-side to see if there is a problem with a specific cylinder. I have missed a few possible problems. Others will chime in! I'm betting on the air leak. Good luck! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1169539&rss=1 Fri, 23 Mar 2007 09:50 GMT A couple of our 244s need new motor mounts. In the past, FCP Groton has supplied MTC brand aftermarket mounts. Now they supply mounts for our model year from a company called "Uro Parts." Has anybody used these mounts? Are they supposed to be an upgrade over the MTCs? I also know that FCP Groton will supply Volvo brand parts. Are their prices reasonable? Has anybody ever purchased Volvo motor mounts from the company? Thanks! Glen PS - It will soon be time to start those repair jobs you have saved over the winter. Everybody please have fun and be safe. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1164206&rss=1 Sun, 4 Mar 2007 23:37 GMT This is probably a politically incorrect suggestion here, but try a can of spray starting fluid (ether). Spray take off the small hose that enters the large intake hose upstream from the throttle body, spray in the starting fluid, replace the small shose, and let her rip. If the engine doesn't you KNOW you have no spark. If it fires, runs and dies, it's probably a fuel system problem. Good luck. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1159659&rss=1 Fri, 16 Feb 2007 21:22 GMT Willing to drive anywhere with a 100 mile or so radius. I will bull it from your wreck or parts car. Looking for something not abused with reasonably low miles (no more than 150k). Rear seal leaks are ok. Thanks! http://www.brickboard.com/BUYERS/?id=1159058&rss=1 Wed, 14 Feb 2007 16:47 GMT Clean oil can be VERY tough to see on the grid pattern stamped onto the bottom of the 240 dipstick. Take a deep breath, get a clean, absorbent paper towel, make sure the car is sitting on level ground, pull the stick, dab it with the paper towel until it is impeccably dry, reinsert it to the hilt, pull it again, and try to read the level in good light. If you STILL see no oil, then it's time to panic. Good luck. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1159057&rss=1 Wed, 14 Feb 2007 16:42 GMT Sounds exactly like the symptons of a problem my son ('88 244) had during a cold snap in Columbus, IN two weeks ago. He had been buying cheap gas (Swifty, I believe) and had a low fuel level when the cold snap hit. THe car would catch a little, but would not start. I added new gas, bounced the rear end a little to shake things up (!), and sprayed starting fluid/ether into the intake line. The car fired right up. We then added a can of dry gas for peace of mind. I also told him to spend the extra 2 cents per gallon for name-brand gas. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1157687&rss=1 Fri, 9 Feb 2007 20:46 GMT Seee my post above. It's basically, the kick panel covering the fuse block has to come off. The fuse block itself has to be un screwed and moved out of the way (make sure you disconnect the battery first). WIth the fuse block out of the way you can easily get a socket and sextenstion to the bolt heads. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1152479&rss=1 Sat, 20 Jan 2007 23:32 GMT You can replace just the hinge, but but you may have to remove the entire hinge to get yhe old one out and the new one properly seated. The springs are held into place in a slot in the pillar-side hinge plate by two little u=shaped "washers" for want of abetter term. Also, I found that the little rollers that rotate against the top of the spring and hold the door open were badly worn. If the door stops were working properly before the spring broke, you should be in good shape. I belive the fuses must be moved. I disconnected the battery and removed: - the door sill (just pull up sharply at the front), - the door piping at the front of the door from the floor to the top of the dash (just pulls off), - the fuse cover, - the kick panel (it isloosened when you remove the piping), - and finally, the two screws that hold the fuse block to the inside of the hinge pillar. The good news is that you can just push the fuse block out of the way. There is no need to remove fuses or wires. Good luck. A floppy door is SO annoying! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1152478&rss=1 Sat, 20 Jan 2007 23:28 GMT Thanks for the tip. I did not loosen the top hinge, so the door remained stable with the lower hinge removed. I was afraid where would not be enough space between the door and hinge pillar to fit the replacement hinge. The jack rotated the door upward about the top hinge and took care of that problem. If one needed to do a door replacement, your adapter would be almost indispensable. I cannot imagine manhandling/aligning a complete door with both hinges loose! -- Six bricks, yep, six! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1151377&rss=1 Tue, 16 Jan 2007 19:48 GMT I considered at least loosening the top hinge, but I was able to get enough upward rotation from the jack to fit the replacement lower hinge into place. If only I had checked the reinforcement plate hole alignment BEFORE trying for an hour to start the bolds, this would have been a smooth job! -- Six bricks, yep, six! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1151376&rss=1 Tue, 16 Jan 2007 19:43 GMT Isn't it annoying when that door comes back and smacks you on the knee! This car has a good powertrain, but dozens of "aesthetic" and non-safety functional problems. I chose to fix this one first! It is wonderful to receive the approbation of an icon! Good luck with you own repairs, Erling! Glen -- Six bricks, yep, six! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1151375&rss=1 Tue, 16 Jan 2007 19:39 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/