http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=19 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sun, 22 Nov 2009 10:27 GMT Sun, 22 Nov 2009 10:27 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Ditto! I just read all the posts in this thread and it comforts me to know there are still such talented resourceful people on the board should I need help. My '96 965 got a replacement motor a year ago last February and has been trouble free up to now. (Well, I did replace front shocks & springs and driver's seat upholstery but that didn't need any diagnostics.) I also got myself a retirement present of a 2004 Porsche Boxster S so it has become my new "mistress". My best to all. -- '96 965, 16' wheels, Michelin Pilot Sports, rear 18mm bar + Koni, 201 HP cams, 149K. Put 200K on '85 745 TD. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357872&rss=1 Thu, 2 Jul 2009 21:08 GMT Hi Philip, I'm wondering why you ignored the advice from "dewfpo"? He was quoting right out of the Volvo manual. I'm also wondering why you elected to replace a compressor that was "working"? The control works by cycling the compressor to keep a constant pressure drop range at the dryer/reciever. There is no need for a high side pressure reading. Your "advisor" doesn't seem to know how the new Volvo system works. He is assuming the functionality of an older system I think. In order for the cooling to be optimal in this system you need the proper amount (weight) of R134a and compatible oil in the system. You didn't mention any oil, a new orfice, or new dryer/reciever in your system repair. I replaced my compressor several years ago because the oil got low leaking by case seals in the compresssor housing. This in turn caused a lot of friction and resulted in broken links at the clutch. At the time of the repalcement I put in new 'O" rings, a new orfic, a reciever/dryer, and replentised the PAG oil. This was followed by a good "vacuuming" and finally with the proper amount of R134a. The system performed flawlessly for a couple more years until the condensor got a hole in it from corrosion. I found the hole using florising dye and a black light. This time after replacing the condensor I only vacuumed the system and installed the amount of R134a as described by dewfpo. I now have a slow leak that I haven't been able to find such that every other year I've been vacuuming the system and replacing the R134a by weight. System has continued to work well with about 41 F degree air from the vents after installing the R134a. -- '96 965, 16' wheels, Michelin Pilot Sports, rear 18mm bar + Koni, 201 HP cams, 149K. Put 200K on '85 745 TD. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1357867&rss=1 Thu, 2 Jul 2009 20:39 GMT Hi Dan, Thanks for your input. In addition to the oil consumption problem my engine has a problem with the head gasket for a second time. With hindsight, I remember that the bolt in that corner seemed to tighten up different form the others. I should have backed up and looked into the thread quality for that bolt. That thread may have been messed up at the factory causing the original leak? I'm going to give a used 120K engine for $1000 a try. The "recycle" operation, (junk-yard), adds a labor warrantee in addition to the 6 mo. engine warrantee for a nominal $200. I've got a shop that others have had good reports for to install it for about $850. Since I usually do my own work I didn't know any good people lined up to do the install. Most small shops don't have the facilities and the dealer wouldn't touch it for less than $8000. (Estimated $6000 for a Volvo remanufactured plus over $2000 for the install!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!) If the used engine seems to be a good one I'll just dispose of my old engine after awhile. If the used one seems to be a dude, I may rebuild my engine and put it back in. Based on both your and my experience, a disassembly, oversize re-bore with new pistons and rings should be all that is needed. A nice project to work on. Wish me luck. -- '96 965, 16' wheels, Michelin Pilot Sports, rear 18mm bar + Koni, 201 HP cams, 149K. Put 200K on '85 745 TD. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1323751&rss=1 Tue, 6 Jan 2009 22:16 GMT Hi Guys. Sorry for the long absence. Up till now my '960 has been a joy for a long time and I've been busy with other aspects related to retiring etc. A quick review of some of the posts show the same good advice is being dispensed by some of the same good people. As some of you may remember, I replaced a head gasket and put in 204HP cams several years and about 40K miles ago. Now at 160K miles the joint between the head and block is seeping coolant in the same place. Since the engine is consuming about a quart of oil about every 500 miles I think it is time to replace that engine. The first question seems to be "used" or "remanufactured"? I'm going to pay to have the engine replaced since my garage isn't really tall enough or big enough to do the work myself so that will add about $800 to the cost. (Plus I'm getting a little lazy in my dotage.) It seems there are almost no remanufactured engines available for less than about $4K while used seem to be in the range of $1K. One site even went so far as to suggest the engine wasn't capable of being remanufactured??? Input invited! -- '96 965, 16' wheels, Michelin Pilot Sports, rear 18mm bar + Koni, 201 HP cams, 149K. Put 200K on '85 745 TD. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1322325&rss=1 Tue, 30 Dec 2008 22:31 GMT Hmmmmmm... If I faced your problem, I would start by obtaining a large, 12" to 16" long, single cut flat file. Using as even a pressure as I could by hand, I would lightly dress the top surface making sure the file was picking up as much surface length as possible. If it took more than a few "draws" to obtain a clean even filed surface I would really look for more options. If it cleans with just a few draws I would button it up and not worry. I hope this helps. -- '96 965, 16' wheels, Michelin Pilot Sports, rear 18mm bar + Koni, 201 HP cams, 142K. Put 200K on '85 745 TD. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1234175&rss=1 Fri, 16 Nov 2007 19:42 GMT Based on my experience I would go with replacing the engine. The head gasket went in my car a couple years ago at about 122K and developed a coolant leak that was partially inside and partially outside. With coolant in the oil the rings either stuck or wore quickly or both. With hindsight, I should have paid attention to the fact that most of the cross hatching pattern in the cylinders was already worn off! I did the job myself and in the process had the head which wasn't warped, shaved just enough to get a clean gasket surface and tested for leaks and valve sealing. After the repair the oil consmption has been running at about 1 qt every 500 to 700 miles. Now about 25K miles after the repair, the blow-by seems to be getting bad enough to push oil past a new filler cap gasket and also into the plug cavities which are sealed by "O" rings. The engine still runs perfect but I think it is doomed for lasting to 200K So I did all that work and now I'm looking to replace the engine anyway. I think the rings, pistons and cylinders in your engine need to be very carefully evaluated and "IF" judged OK I would go with the remanufactured & guranteed head. The bottom end of this engine is bullet proof as long as it hasn't lost oil. -- '96 965, 16' wheels, Michelin Pilot Sports, rear 18mm bar + Koni, 201 HP cams, 142K. Put 200K on '85 745 TD. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1188648&rss=1 Wed, 6 Jun 2007 22:08 GMT I'm very happy with the '94 cams I put in my '96 wagon! No other changes required. -- '96 965, 16' wheels, Michelin Pilot Sports, rear 18mm bar + Koni, 201 HP cams, 142K. Put 200K on '85 745 TD. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1169175&rss=1 Wed, 21 Mar 2007 20:24 GMT Hi Chris, Can you tell us/me how to get e-code head lights? -- '96 965, 16' wheels, Michelin Pilot Sports, rear 18mm bar + Koni, 201 HP cams, 142K. Put 200K on '85 745 TD. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1169160&rss=1 Wed, 21 Mar 2007 19:35 GMT 16 X 7 -- '96 965, 16' wheels, Michelin Pilot Sports, rear 18mm bar + Koni, 201 HP cams, 142K. Put 200K on '85 745 TD. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1164829&rss=1 Tue, 6 Mar 2007 23:17 GMT P0300 is a general misfire with a rich mixture hitting the CAT while P0302 is pointing to cylinder #2. The first place I would look is at the spark plug & coil for #2. Coils go bad once in a while but I've been carring my spare around for years without using it. If those check out, the injectors are the next place to check. Many parts are the same for each cylinder. Try swapping things to see if the problem follows the moved part. Good luck and post back on progress to add to our knowledge base. -- '96 965, 16' wheels, Michelin Pilot Sports, rear 18mm bar + Koni, 201 HP cams, 142K. Put 200K on '85 745 TD. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1164491&rss=1 Mon, 5 Mar 2007 22:42 GMT I second the idea of a vacuum leak, like at the intake manifold gasket of one of the rubber hoses between the inner and outer parts of the manifold system. Another thought is to check the throtle position sensor. Maybe the ECU doesn't know it is supposed to be controlling the idle. Did it get moved in the process? -- '96 965, 16' wheels, Michelin Pilot Sports, rear 18mm bar + Koni, 201 HP cams, 142K. Put 200K on '85 745 TD. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1164489&rss=1 Mon, 5 Mar 2007 22:34 GMT My approach to this would be to get a mechanic's stethescope and listen to the bearings on all the items at the front of the engine. I'll bet one or more of the idler pulleys for either the serpentine belt or the timing belt is demanding attention. The top plastic cover will need to come off to check the timing belt pulleys. Don't ignore this as a belt failure can ruin the engine. The timing belt cause is obvious as this is an interference engine. There has been at least one report here on this site of a serpentine belt break getting into the timing belt area and causing it to fail. Belt dressing is for old fashion leather belts as used on old farm and industrial equipment. It won't renew a dried out old rubber belt. -- '96 965, 16' wheels, Michelin Pilot Sports, rear 18mm bar + Koni, 201 HP cams, 142K. Put 200K on '85 745 TD. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1164487&rss=1 Mon, 5 Mar 2007 22:27 GMT For the later 960s all the S/V90 stuff is relavent. In the 900 section there is a mix of 960 & 940 stuff. I feel he is fine in this area! -- '96 965, 16' wheels, Michelin Pilot Sports, rear 18mm bar + Koni, 201 HP cams, 142K. Put 200K on '85 745 TD. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1160877&rss=1 Tue, 20 Feb 2007 22:22 GMT If adjusting it doesn't fix it, another posibility is that the friction pads have rusted free of the shoes. I had to replace all my shoes a couple years ago because of this. I also replaced several other rusty parts inside the "hat" and the E-brake now works better than when I bought the car. The cables were fine. (I can easily slide the rear wheels on pavement.) -- '96 965, 16' wheels, Michelin Pilot Sports, rear 18mm bar + Koni, 201 HP cams, 142K. Put 200K on '85 745 TD. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1160873&rss=1 Tue, 20 Feb 2007 22:11 GMT I actually bought an S80 rim on ebay to test out on my 960. On my car, the rim cleared the front strut by only a 1/32" or less. For sure any tire that hangs past the rim at all will rub on the strut. Also if the assembly flexes at all the rim would rub. Any variation in camber alignment would likely make it rub also. The only way to use them would be with spacers, at least, on the front. -- '96 965, 16' wheels, Michelin Pilot Sports, rear 18mm bar + Koni, 201 HP cams, 142K. Put 200K on '85 745 TD. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1160785&rss=1 Tue, 20 Feb 2007 17:27 GMT So far, the only symptom is the oil level going down quickly. Car runs good with a smooth idle, plenty of power and no smoke under any condition. -- '96 965, 16' wheels, Michelin Pilot Sports, rear 18mm bar + Koni, 201 HP cams, 142K. Put 200K on '85 745 TD. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1157391&rss=1 Thu, 8 Feb 2007 22:56 GMT My car is using a quart in about 400 to 500 miles. I did the full double bottle Auto-RX treatment on my car and it made no difference! It started when my head gasket let go and I believe I got some anti-freeze in my oil for a while. Most of the hatch marks are gone on my cylinder walls so I'm now just going to feed it oil as it runs perfectly otherwise. (Starts, idles, power, milage, etc. all OK.) I can buy a lot of oil for the cost of a replacement or rebuild. -- '96 965, 16' wheels, Michelin Pilot Sports, rear 18mm bar + Koni, 201 HP cams, 142K. Put 200K on '85 745 TD. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1154979&rss=1 Tue, 30 Jan 2007 21:22 GMT More than likely the creaking is from the front inner bushings on the control arm. The rear inner are probably at the end of life also so do both. At 142K I'm ready to do mine the second time. -- '96 965, 16' wheels, Michelin Pilot Sports, rear 18mm bar + Koni, 201 HP cams, 142K. Put 200K on '85 745 TD. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1152790&rss=1 Mon, 22 Jan 2007 16:33 GMT If you really want to make life easier, get the Volvo one from one of the sponser's. This will have the correct length of wires and connector on it along with markings for where to attach the tie-wraps. Getting a cheaper unit means you will have to carefully solder and insulate the wires on the new sensor to the Volvo harness and connector. If you are not an experienced electronics solderer, you may be setting a trap for yourself as the signals require really good electrical connections. (No twisted and taped joints or wire nuts.) On my '96, the sensor was not recessed but it is on the top of the converter leaving little room to get a deep socket on there which is what you really would want to do if you don't have one of those purpose built adapters for your 1/2" drive. The heat may have it stuck on there quite good. The new one won't require any special torquing. It shoud have a little anit-sieze on the threads so be careful to keep it off the end of the sensor. I recommend purchasing one of those O2 tools to save yourself a lot of grief. -- '96 965, 16' wheels, Michelin Pilot Sports, rear 18mm bar + Koni, 201 HP cams, 142K. Put 200K on '85 745 TD. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1152788&rss=1 Mon, 22 Jan 2007 16:25 GMT In my car the friction material rusted off the shoes and many of the other parts were rusty also. I put many new parts in and can now easily slide the rear wheels. (Better than ever before!) -- '96 965, 16' wheels, Michelin Pilot Sports, rear 18mm bar + Koni, 201 HP cams, 142K. Put 200K on '85 745 TD. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1152228&rss=1 Fri, 19 Jan 2007 19:15 GMT I have yet to find a scanner with Volvo support. Therefore I would recommend you buy the low cost scanner of your choice and spend the rest of the money on the Volvo "Green" appropriate shop manual/s for the engine you have. The manual' chart will cross reference the OBD-II code to the one or more Volvo Diagnostic Trouble Codes, DTC, and then to the fault tracing methods. -- '96 965, 16' wheels, Michelin Pilot Sports, rear 18mm bar + Koni, 201 HP cams, 142K. Put 200K on '85 745 TD. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1152224&rss=1 Fri, 19 Jan 2007 19:09 GMT If the S/V90 is as you describe, it is different from my car. My car uses the banjo bolt type connection at the front end and an adapter on the back end to convert the threaded copper washer sealing rear of the filter to the flare type connection of the hose coming from the pump in the tank. If people can verify what their car has as variations it would be good info for the FAQs. -- '96 965, 16' wheels, Michelin Pilot Sports, rear 18mm bar + Koni, 201 HP cams, 142K. Put 200K on '85 745 TD. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1152221&rss=1 Fri, 19 Jan 2007 18:57 GMT A normal part of replacing a fuel filter also. Bleeding is just a matter of cycling the ignition key several times, 10 or so, to have the pump push air through the regulator and return hose of the system. (The fuel pump only runs for a second or so when the ignition is turned on. Safety feature! Once the engine is running, the pump runs continuous.) -- '96 965, 16' wheels, Michelin Pilot Sports, rear 18mm bar + Koni, 201 HP cams, 142K. Put 200K on '85 745 TD. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1151620&rss=1 Wed, 17 Jan 2007 16:06 GMT Please excuse my ignorance but I only know english as a language. Is there an english speaking/writing section? -- '96 965, 16' wheels, Michelin Pilot Sports, rear 18mm bar + Koni, 201 HP cams, 142K. Put 200K on '85 745 TD. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1151616&rss=1 Wed, 17 Jan 2007 15:59 GMT You can always order one at a dealer! -- '96 965, 16' wheels, Michelin Pilot Sports, rear 18mm bar + Koni, 201 HP cams, 142K. Put 200K on '85 745 TD. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1151612&rss=1 Wed, 17 Jan 2007 15:55 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/