http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=18083 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 02:05 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 02:05 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. The grease seal doesn't really have anything to do with the dust shield except they are close together. The PN is 944185. Tasca Vlvo lists the real deal for $5.53 each FCP has lookalikes for $1.49 Bentley page 770-4 Figure 7 shows how it goes on the spindle. -- Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387598&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 23:10 GMT Shannon DeWolfe dug this up in 2/2008. Volvo content with swedish rockabilly. I think it's worth an encore. <object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/pXroolZR_5I&hl=en_US&fs=1&"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/pXroolZR_5I&hl=en_US&fs=1&" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object> -- Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387593&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 22:56 GMT There is no "overdrive light". The yellow Arrow light indicates that the Overdrive (4th gear) is <u>disengaged</u>. Normally you'd never see that "Upshift Arrow" Unless you'd pushed the button on the shifter lever. This is because the OD relay is automatically turned on when you start the car. When the OD relay is on, the Arrow light will be off and voltage from the OD relay will be "relayed" to the OD solenoid on the tranny. If you decide to downshift while driving, the shifter button will turn the OD relay OFF (arrow ON) then on again when you want to go back into Overdrive. Anytime you see the Up Arrow, it means the OD relay is OFF. If you didn't turn the relay off with the shifter button, it could be something like a blown fuse or a failing OD relay. Maybe the following circuit outline will help you understand the OD operation: OD operation involves 4 components and the wiring that connects them... 1) Fuse 11 (200) or 12 (700/900) supplies voltage to items #2, #3, and #4. 2) The Shifter button/switch turns the OD relay off and on &#091Button is flush with the back surface of the shifter knob on '93 940&#093 3) The OD relay controls the OD solenoid and the <u>Upshift</u> ("OD off") Arrow light (by separate wires). When the Arrow light is <u>ON</u>, the OD relay and solenoid are <u>OFF</u>. 4) The OD solenoid allows OD engagement when ON, (<u>this is the "default" OD relay/solenoid state at start-up</u>) If your shifter switch makes the Arrow light go on and off, then the OD relay is working (although it could still be failing to control the solenoid voltage due to burnt contact points). If Arrow light doesn't go on and off, start with the Fuse. If fuse is OK, suspect OD relay, shifter switch, or wiring to the relay&#226;&#128;&#148;check for Key-On voltage at relay plug terminal 15 (blue and gray wires). If voltage is OK at 15, check for voltage at 86 (gray) when shifter switch is depressed. If 15 and 86 check OK, the relay is bad.* Otherwise, the problem is most likely the white undercar wire from OD relay to Solenoid (#4 above) or the wire connector terminal at the solenoid. Less likely would be be Solenoid itself. * NOTE: Relay wire & terminal info above is for 240. The 700/900 is not as easily tested due to relay placement. -- Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387575&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 21:09 GMT The bypass plate allows an automatic upshift <i>from 3rd gear to 4th gear Overdrive</i>. The OD relay and solenoid allow the same thing, but also allow a <i>controlled</i> downshift from Overdrive to 3rd gear (direct drive) for pulling trailer at lower speeds, climbing twisty hills, etc. Some people like and use that OD to 3rd downshift, as I do. Others don't care about it, don't feel the need to use it, or don't understand its purpose. That's how the AW tranny was designed to operate, so Volvo left it that way. -- Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387554&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 19:06 GMT Hi Matt, Guess I did skip over that "main fuel pump" replacement claim. Later, what caught my eye was: <i>"... the 1993 940 non-turbo that I'm having trouble with..."</i>. I wonder how many Bosch versions of the '93 940 NA cars there are, and if they are unique to a specific market area. I don't recall ever seeing another one being mentioned here in the 6+ years I've been following all things 940 on the BB. But you'll note I did hedge a bit by saying, "...I'm <i>almost sure</i> that..." ;-) -- Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387162&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 18:02 GMT It may be a weak/bad "Exciter diode" in the alternator&#226;&#128;&#148;not a brush/regulator problem, especially if he lights glow brighter as speed increases. Here's why... With the engine running, the output from 3 small "Exciter Diodes" goes to the D+ (small red wire) terminal, and from there to <u>one side</u> of the warning light. Three larger "Positive" diodes make the B+ output that goes to Battery, and from there to all car circuits &#226;&#128;&#148; <i>including the <u>other side</u> of the warning light</i>. Since each diode trio <i>should </i> supply the same voltage, that warning light should be OFF &#226;&#128;&#148; because with <u>the same</u> voltage applied to each side of the bulb there will be no current flow. But if the D+ voltage is lower than B+, the unequal voltages will allow some current flow thru the bulb. And if the B+ voltage increases but D+ does not, the light can glow brighter as speed increases &#226;&#128;&#148; as has been reported here in the past. With the engine running, compare the D+ and B+ voltages. If D+ is lower, a defective exciter diode wire is a good possibility. -- Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387102&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 13:38 GMT <i>"If the car is not starting at all, again, the intank pump is not the problem."</i> A '93 940 non turbo is almost sure to have the Regina Fuel system. If so, the ONLY pump is in the tank and may well be the problem, as in the example below with the burnt "dead" spots on commutator at 210K miles. <img src=http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t71/lucid_photo/Picture3.png> -- Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386982&rss=1 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 19:54 GMT <i>"Sorry, but that's what Bentley calls the part. It's the round disc that goes onto the spindle and houses the 5 lug bolts."</i> That's the Front hub. The rear is different. Its "round disc" with pressed-in studs is part of the axle shaft. If you really think it's necessary, a used shaft could replace the one whose studs you're worried about. There's a good chance the used bearing that comes out with it will be OK. -- Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386559&rss=1 Mon, 16 Nov 2009 01:09 GMT Even if you could find a "banjo" fitting, I don't believe you could fit it to that thermo-plastic fuel line. My 940 sprung a rust leak at that banjo and I had to replace the whole line, from filter to fuel rail (about 7' long). The cheapest dealer price I know of is at <a href=http://www.tascavolvoparts.com//index.do target=blank>http://www.tascavolvoparts.com//index.do</a> in Mass. Your 240's filter is in the same place as my 940's, so I think it would use the same feed line. 1342033 $116.50 list $0.00 <u>$87.09</u> "internet price" FEED LINE -- Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386544&rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 23:56 GMT The OD switch connects relay 15 to relay 86, but is only functional with a working relay installed. If you want OD control without a relay, you could use longer wires to replace the PO's bypass (15 to 87 in the harness plug), with your switch installed in the <i>extended</i> bypass wire. You don't want to use a wimpy little switch, since it will be carrying solenoid current most of the time (the reason for the relay). -- Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386525&rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 21:15 GMT <i>"About that O2 sensor... you're not likely to get the correct one even if you go to a Volvo parts center."</i> The '89-'93 Regina sensor (PN below) should be available at any dealer. Tasca Volvo in MA <a href=http://www.tascavolvoparts.com//index.do target=blank>http://www.tascavolvoparts.com//index.do</a> has the best price I've found anywhere, comparable to the 25002 from NTK. 3517394 $172.28 $0.00 <u>$110.95</u> Electrical - Powertrain control - Oxygen sensor Oxygen sensor, 740, w/o turbo 1992 The '94 sensor is more expensive... 3547445 $238.33 $0.00 $153.48 Electrical - Powertrain control - Oxygen sensor Oxygen sensor, 940, w/o turbo 1994 -- Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385995&rss=1 Fri, 13 Nov 2009 12:51 GMT <i>"...but I also saw quite a bump just from cleaning out that gray braided ground on the firewall. Just an FYI."</i> To me, that suggests you need to remove and clean the ground side connections (2) on the blue cable from Battery negative. I say that because that small braided firewall ground is merely for radio noise suppression. It is <i>not meant to be a service ground</i> from engine to body. In rare cases where the blue battery ground cable fails, that braid has been known to get smoking hot when cranking the starter -- Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385766&rss=1 Thu, 12 Nov 2009 13:35 GMT Hi Nancy, There are two responses to one of your earlier posts <a href=http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1385234/240_overdrive.html target=blank>HERE</a>, that you may have missed. It's generally best to keep everything on a given problem in one "thread" rather than open several new posts. Easier to maintain continuity with a single thread. -- Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385506&rss=1 Wed, 11 Nov 2009 13:23 GMT When you've found the OD relay, per Art's directions, you can do a temporary* diagnostic bypass with a jumper wire at the relay harness connector plug. Just connect these two plug terminals together with a "jumper" wire: &#226;&#128;&#162; Input terminal #15 (2 wires, a Blue-Black and a Gray) &#226;&#128;&#162; Output terminal #87 (1 White wire) A good-fitting jumper can be made with flat male crimp-on terminals that are the similar to the relay terminals. This jumper wire will simulate a relay that is always energized &#226;&#128;&#148; which is the normal condition, until the shifter button is pressed. * If the OD works OK with the bypass jumper (and you don't need the shifter button downshift option), you can just leave the jumper wire in place. -- Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385332&rss=1 Tue, 10 Nov 2009 12:23 GMT <i>can i use a 951 ecu which came out of a 1992 245 in a 1991 745?</i> Not if the '91 745 (non turbo?) is a Rex/Regina car, which is highly likely. -- Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384707&rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 16:13 GMT ...a thick 70+ year old Proto brand line wrench that was my Dad's. Art's tip to tap the wrench with a hammer (while applying moderate torque) is a good idea too. I think the7/16" is actually a bit looser, not tighter, than the 11mm wrench... (7/16) 7 x .0625" = .4375" (11mm) 11 x .0394" = .4334 &#091.041" less&#093 -- Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384371&rss=1 Fri, 6 Nov 2009 00:07 GMT <i>"I loosened the lower and upper clampnuts. Yes, you can just use a common screwdriver to spread the clamp slot a little bit just by tapping the blade up into the slot. Then I just tapped the union "coupler" upwards using a piece of 1/2" conduit and it slid up onto the steering shaft far enough to pop right off the rack pinion."</i> You have eloquently described how that job <i>should</i> go, Dave. I can only say that you've led a charmed or sheltered life. Sheltered at least from salt-induced rust and aluminum-to-steel corrosion that we find on that coupler after 20+ years of salty, sloppy, snowy winter driving. -- Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384351&rss=1 Thu, 5 Nov 2009 22:17 GMT <i>"...these are amazingly EASY to replace..."</i> That may be true in sunny Tucson, Dave. But here in the North East or anywhere salty roads are found in winter, it can be a real pain -- especially the lower steering column u-joint. -- Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384346&rss=1 Thu, 5 Nov 2009 21:44 GMT Since hopefully you'll be opening the line at the caliper, here's a Brake Tip I toss in at every opportunity: You can prevent <b>Master Cylinder Brake Fluid Loss</b> from any/all open brake line(s) by blocking the brake pedal depressed before you start. It only takes an inch or two on the pre-ABS 240s. NOTE: The ABS 240s need more pedal travel, like the 700/900 cars (in which case the bleeder needs to be open while pedal is being depressed). The 700/900 Green Book shows the pedal <i>fully depressed</i> by a special tool (easy to replicate with a 2x4, etc.). The book also says to <u>open a bleeder first</u>, using a tube and container to catch the fluid expelled when the pedal is depressed. I've been using this on '80s 240s for years now&#226;&#128;&#148;since I learned it from an independent Volvo specialist. I made a wooden prop that hooks to the bottom edge of the pedal and bears against the 240 seat adjuster bar. It's handy for checking brake lights too. >>Disconnect the battery (or pull fuse) to keep brake lights off while the pedal prop is in place.<< -- Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384343&rss=1 Thu, 5 Nov 2009 21:37 GMT Ryan, By "safety" I meant avoiding the chance of a wonky fuse suddenly killing the lights. Maybe far-fetched, but it works for me. And for Volvo too, apparently. IMO a circuit <i>direct from battery thru relays to bulbs</i> has less need of fuses than the stock circuits that we've all used (at our peril?) for years, <u>sans fuses</u>: High Beams... Battery => junction block => fuse block common =>light switch => main headlight relay => hi-lo flasher relay => High beam bulbs. Low beams... Same as for Highs plus: from hi-lo flasher => back to Bulb Failure Warning sensor =>then out again to Low beam bulbs. -- Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384338&rss=1 Thu, 5 Nov 2009 21:25 GMT <i>"This new hose has a flat-faced fitting inside the nut."</i> Look real close at that flat face. There is a rounded surface behind it. Like someone cut a slice off a ball. The rounded (convex) hose fitting part fits to the matching rounded (concave) "socket" in the injector head. It's the old "male/female" thing. -- Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384253&rss=1 Thu, 5 Nov 2009 15:48 GMT Doug, Bentley's tiny reproduction of the Volvo diagram can be hard to decipher. As I see it, the #85 terminal is + voltage only to the Fuel relay coil. The Main relay coil + is from #30 (also feeds the armature + for both relays). The ignition switch "wakes up" the ECU at pin #35. The ECU then puts a ground on Main #86/1 to energize the relay. It does the same for the Fuel relay at #86/2 when it gets timing pulses at pin 1 from Ignition CU pin 17 during cranking and running. Yes, the ignition switch is a likely suspect for the Main relay, as it enables the ECU to make the coil ground at #86/1. That assumes the coil also has the <i>constant</i> + voltage at #30 from the battery and 25A fuse. -- Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384091&rss=1 Wed, 4 Nov 2009 12:54 GMT <i>"I still had no helper today but managed to figure out that there probably was no spark."</i> &#226;&#128;&#162; Could be the RS relay (on a turbo) or Ignition amplifier (module). Try an RS relay jumper. I made one by sawing off the end of an old window switch and soldering a copper bridge across the terminal ends. Those 2 pins are just the right diameter and spacing for the RS relay. <i>"Do you know if a failed module would result in the tach dropping to zero when it ceased to function?"</i> &#226;&#128;&#162; I'd say yes, since module pin 1 wire goes to trigger the coil AND drive the tach. -- Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383976&rss=1 Tue, 3 Nov 2009 23:42 GMT Now I understand. It's a bit unusual to hear that relay mentioned by its right name. Besides the Ignition switch, take a look at the 25 Amp fuse and it's wiring -- particularly at the Battery + end, where a loose or corroded connection is sometimes troublesome. Try a <i>+12V test light</i> on Main relay terminal 30 the next time it fails to "pick". A DVM can show what looks like good voltage, but not pass enough current for the job. In such a case, the test light's dimness is noticeable. -- Bruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383972&rss=1 Tue, 3 Nov 2009 23:14 GMT http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383936&rss=1 Tue, 3 Nov 2009 20:50 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/