http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=1797 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 11:58 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 11:58 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Have you made sure your PCV system including your flame trap is clean ? A clogged flame trap of other portion of the crankcase venting system often causes seals to leak, especially the rear main. Cleaning the flame trap or hoses will often stop the leak. Check the 700/900 FAQ for more info on this issue. I'd make sure I didn't have excessive crankcase pressure causing the leak before pulling the tranny and replacing the main seal. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1299293&rss=1 Tue, 2 Sep 2008 02:38 GMT Could well be a shorted or otherwise failed battery. How's the charge going in at the terminals? Are you getting at least 13.5 volts? I've had batteries on charge over night that held a surface charge but failed under load. You can take it into Autozone and have them test the battery if you don't have a multi -meter. My guess would be this "no start" is because of the battery is gone. You'll likely need a new one. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1298270&rss=1 Thu, 28 Aug 2008 02:28 GMT Doug, Sounds like a failing MC. One good way to tell is hold pressure on the pedal and if it sinks slowly to the floor the Master Cylinder is bad. Fluid is leaking past the piston. If the fluid level hasn't changed as you pointed out in this situation, it's not leaking it into the booster of out of a bad line. The good news is, if you follow the proper repair procedures it's an easy and not too expensive fix. FCP has brand new ATE MC for under 100 bucks. You can get a good salvage piece at places like Pick N' Pull for 15 or 20 bucks. http://www.fcpgroton.com/category-exec/category_id/60/nm/Brake_Master_Cylinder/sub_top_menu_item/by_make-by_model-by_year/by_make/78/by_model/1116/by_year/40/ The last 240 MC I replaced took about 20 mins to complete. If you bench bleed to MC and aviod air in the lines it's a quick and easy fix. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1287960&rss=1 Mon, 7 Jul 2008 06:21 GMT Larry, There are spray on gasket removing solvents you can buy at AutoZone, Pep Boys etc. Also a good shot of BP Blaster will soften baked on gaskets up after it sits a bit. I then scrub the block mating area with ScotchBrite. I used to use fine steel wool but it left bits of rustable steel behind. I scrap the tough spots with a plastic joint compound knife, the kind you use when mudding dry wall tape. The relatively soft plastic blade won't gouge or score the block but will scape off those nasty dried on bits. I use an articulated mechanic's inspection mirror and mini-mag light to check the hard to see areas to make sure all of the old gasket has been removed. Usually get things clean as a whistle and I've never had a pump block gasket leak. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1287959&rss=1 Mon, 7 Jul 2008 06:05 GMT Beth, FCP Groton is a very good online source for Brick parts. Check this out. http://www.fcpgroton.com/category-exec/category_id/71/nm/A_C_Hoses_and_Pipes/sub_top_menu_item/by_make-by_model-by_year/by_make/78/by_model/1126/by_year/37/ http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1287294&rss=1 Fri, 4 Jul 2008 02:02 GMT FWIW, When I bought my 1995 944T new in 95 it rolled off the show room floor with the factory mounted 195/65/15. I've run 205/60/15 since the originals were replaced. No speedo error as it amounts to a plus zero set up. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1286130&rss=1 Sat, 28 Jun 2008 18:54 GMT Lucid is correct, there is no "check engine light" on the 88 240. There is a "service" light which comes on every 500 miles and to turn it off there is a lever just behind the speedo that must be lifted upward. That re-sets the service light for another 500 miles. This has nothing to do with the engine performance or emissions; it's just a timed light that basically reminds you to change the oil. Now that bulb can be burned out or someone who didn't know how to re-set the counter/light may have pulled the bulb. Regardless it has nothing to do with safety or emissions. There are no OBDs of any kind of the 88 Volvo 240. Ask the inspector for a clarification on just why your Brick didn't pass. If it failed because he couldn't find a functioning MIL (check engine light) he needs to know he couldn't find it this vehicle doesn't have one! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1281150&rss=1 Tue, 3 Jun 2008 14:56 GMT Tom, You need to make sure that battery is in fact good under load. It may show a full charge but with an internal short or other problem, it could drop to nothing under load as you try to crank the engine. The fact that it went dead may be an indication it's NG. A bad battery can often prevent a jump start from working as well. You may want ot swap out your battery with a known good bat and try again. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1273863&rss=1 Sun, 27 Apr 2008 00:25 GMT It looks like my 95 944 Turbo's fuel pump has failed. I'm a little concerned that the Bosch replacement pump is not a direct fit. Some online part suppliers note extensive modifications to the original housing may be require to get the new pump to fit. Any one have any experience replacing a 95 940 Turbo in-tank main pump? I don't know anything about these, as all my other Bricks have the main pump mounted under the car and only an assist pump in the tank. Any advice on this would be greatly appreciated. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1268567&rss=1 Mon, 31 Mar 2008 15:05 GMT My son's 83 244Ti likes to do this when the throttle body gets dirty. A little TB cleaner sprayed on the throttle plate, TB bore and thru the vacuum line nipples will clear it up every time. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1268563&rss=1 Mon, 31 Mar 2008 14:49 GMT Just to confirm what has been said ... removing the pan is really all you need or should do to replace this cable. Not a difficult task once you figure it out but then again that's the case with most repairs. Considering how long a good cable will last, spending more for a genuine Volvo part may be the way to go. I've been slowly coming to the conclusion that in many cases installing less expensive but poor quality after market parts is penny wise and pound foolish.If your new cable lasts ... good enough... if you find your self yourself needing to replace this again soon I'd think about the OE part for the next repair. Just my $.02 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1267506&rss=1 Wed, 26 Mar 2008 20:00 GMT Kristilee, I've bought a number of used RWD Bricks over the years. (28 years to be exact)240/740/940/960 series Volvos. I would not pay more than $1,000 for this 240. My 88 240DL has been a great Volvo, amoung my favorites and it's quite reliable. Still I spend a lot of weekends working on it. I enjoy repairing these wonderful old Swedish cars so that's a plus for me. It may not be for your husband. They are extremely reliable if you keep them up. With more than 280K miles on a couple of mine, they also seem to last forever. At least I hope they will. If your husband does his own work and buys quality parts from online sources like FCP Groton or Import Parts Specialists, this Volvo could be quite affordable to own and operate. I don't see how anyone can afford to own a vehicle these days if they rely on a shop or, God forbid, dealership, for repairs or maintenance. My $.02 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1252674&rss=1 Sun, 20 Jan 2008 19:19 GMT Ditto on seating the torque convertor. It must seat 1/2 to 3/4" below the flywheel shroud flange. Unfortunately you may have done some damage to the tranny if the TC was not fully seated when you tried to crank it. The 90 and 93 AW trannies are for all intents and purposes, interchangeable. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1252663&rss=1 Sun, 20 Jan 2008 18:51 GMT Mark, Remember to re-tension the belt after 600-1200 miles, it will stretch a bit. If you don't have a Bentley 240 repair manual, now would be a real good time to get one. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1251296&rss=1 Wed, 16 Jan 2008 14:17 GMT Ayago, Often the heater door control vacuum supply line which feeds off the engine intake manifold splits or falls off. This will cause you to have zero air coming through the defrost vents. Open the hood and look at the small vacuum line that connects to the intake through a thin metal line in a larger rubber block right on the top of the manifold. This line feeds back to the passenger firewall in the engine bay. I bet you that line has split or come loose. If the end has split cut it back just enough to get beyond the split. This fix takes 1 min. and will bring hot defrosting air flooding out of those now dead defrost vents. This vacuum line failure is common in the 240 Bricks and the cause of "no air through the defrost vents" condition in 9 out of ten cases. Just to clarify the line is hooked to the engine's intake manifold so you must look under hood. The engine heat bakes this rubber line and they all eventually split. Usually on the end with enough slack to just cut it back for a fix. I am certain this is your problem. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1250224&rss=1 Sun, 13 Jan 2008 01:46 GMT VT, Check the last few listed at on this Autohaus AZ page. http://catalog.autohausaz.com/autohausaz/detailw.jsp?sid=npsnd3fv41zhxj55jekipqry&partner=autohausaz&year=1995&make=VO&model=940--001&category=H3000&part=Catalytic%20Converter http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1249371&rss=1 Thu, 10 Jan 2008 03:39 GMT Saddly the only way I know of to deal with this is to re-paint, both base and clear coat. I have swapped parts that needed paint ... usually clear coat peeling with good salvage parts. At my Pick N' Pull on half price days I bought a couple of metalic gray doors for about 15 bucks each a while back and replaced the clear coat peeling doors on my 244DL. I couldn't have even bought the paint for a DIY job for $30! Swapping a hood is a lot less complicated than doors. If you have a PNP or something like one in your area you might find a hood in the same color for far less that the cost of repainting your old part. I have since started doing my own base/clear coat painting but the results are not as good as the factory or a professional paint shop. That's with metallic paint, with solid colors I'd say you could only tell mine from the factory paint becasue I finish my stuff with a lot less orange peel. But for the cost of paint and my time it's a good trade off IMO, even with the matalic/claer coat paint. Paint can be an expensive problem but these are a few ways I've restored the appearance of my Bricks without a lot of $$$$$ in paint shop costs. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1247985&rss=1 Sat, 5 Jan 2008 19:13 GMT Amar, I use these NGK plugs in my Bricks. BPR6ES N/A BPR7ES Turbos I have use the hotter BPR6ES in my Turbos at times with no bad effects but the cooler 7 is recommended for turbo charged B21/230 engines. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1246533&rss=1 Mon, 31 Dec 2007 16:21 GMT T, I can't say much about the pros and cons as I've only owned and operated Bricks with Bosch FI. Generally the Bosch stuff has worked quite well for me in a half dozen or more Bricks. You can, however, learn more about both system by checking the 700/900 FAQ. http://brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineFuelinjection.htm http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1243462&rss=1 Wed, 19 Dec 2007 18:15 GMT DM, It may be a brake or wheel bearing problem. Try appling the brake lightly at speed and see if the sound changes or stops. You may have a seized brake caliper casuing the pads to drag on the rotor. Also a front wheel bearing may be going south. Check the 700/900 FAQ here on the board for more details on both problems and the solutions. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1243458&rss=1 Wed, 19 Dec 2007 18:09 GMT I'm not sure how the 93's are set up but I suspect that if you have Bosch LH Jetronic fuel injection you also have a Bosch Ignition Controller. Here's an old post of mine on how I solved a real mystery problem with my 88 244DL. This intermitant problem left me stranded and in need of a tow several times before I sorted it out. It may be helpful in your situation. I had a serious shut down, no start problem with my 88 244DL. When it would shut off, which could be in the driveway or on the highway, the tach needle would plummet. I figured it had to be a bad hall sender or connection to it. I finally replaced the hall sender in the distributor, but it didn't cure the mysterious and serious shut down problem. Finally after checking all sorts of connections under the hood, I discoverd pressing or wiggeling the multi-connector to the ignition control unit, (the black box with a white vacuum line hooked to it on the pass side inner fender, front engine bay)caused it to shut down or run very rough. I pulled the connection, lifted off a gray silcone top cap in the plug, used a small screw driver to close the reamed out metal sleeves that slide over the ICU pins, put it back together and the no start, sudden shut down problems were finally cured. I was told the ICU connection should never be removed as it's a one time, one way plug situation. That simpley wasn't the case with my 88. In fact had I not pulled it and tightened the sleeve connections my Brick would have been useless, as it had become dangerously unreliable. Since I fixed the ICU connection, it's returned to being my most trust worthy and reliable Brick. Now 15K trouble free miles later,it still starts every time and doesn't shut down until I turn the ignition switch to off. I'd check your ICU connection. BTW a water proof 25 amp fuse holder is a must have item on your Brick as others have metioned, it will cause no starts and shut downs. I don't ,however, think it would cause rough running, which my bad ICU connection did. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1243451&rss=1 Wed, 19 Dec 2007 18:01 GMT TT, Looks like Volvo specs are a 92 C for the B230. This info is in the 700/900 FAQ but the B series engines are the same. Always good to check this source on the BB. A lot of good info that applies to 240 engines as well. http://brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/Cooling.htm#Thermostat_Replacements http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1240375&rss=1 Sat, 8 Dec 2007 21:40 GMT Dan, I would think a good salavage yard HCV would be the best choice. At my Pick N'Pull they run only a few dollars. The old metal design seems to be much better than the newer plastic replacement. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1231084&rss=1 Mon, 5 Nov 2007 14:45 GMT Guri, As I recall IPD had something called a bone tool, which is a small,soft plastic prying tool designed for removing trim. You might ask them about that. I don't think the tool is very expensive. After damaging more trim pieces and paint than I care to admit, I'm thinking about getting one for the next time I need to remove some trim. BTW The rocker trim clips are differant from the door trim clips. It's hard, even if you are very careful, not to break a few while prying off the trim so I suggest getting a half dozen or more replacements. Always good to have on hand anyway as they often break when the trim snaggs on something. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1223680&rss=1 Tue, 9 Oct 2007 17:19 GMT The expression you are looking for is "Grain of Salt" AH. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1223663&rss=1 Tue, 9 Oct 2007 16:05 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/