http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=17388 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 04:32 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 04:32 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Yes swap in the relay. Make sure fuses 4 and 6 have good tight corrosion free connections. While you are at it the same needs to be checked on the 25 amp fuse holder near the battery. Dan http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387622&rss=1 Sat, 21 Nov 2009 01:24 GMT There is only one seal but it has 2 parts, one rubber one steel. It is a grease seal but unlike most other one piece seals you may be familiar with. Often the rubber is in good shape and can be reused. Autozone, NAPA, Discount Auto (Advance Auto) should have it. Dan http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387616&rss=1 Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:55 GMT Do you hear or feel 2 clicks from the fuel system relay as you turn the key to start? Dan http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387614&rss=1 Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:50 GMT Check the fuse and make sure the connectors are on the pump correctly. Dan http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387608&rss=1 Sat, 21 Nov 2009 00:20 GMT Yes you can limp home emphasis on limp. You must be gentle on the accelerator but can eventually get to 35 -40 mph. The test you describe does indicate a failed AMM (MAF). Dan http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387580&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 21:32 GMT I have a set of sachs advantage struts waiting to be installed that I got about 6 months ago. The box and the struts both say sachs advantage made in Germany. Dan http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387573&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 21:01 GMT Start with the common easy to check stuff first. Spark? fuel? If yes disconnect the electrical connector to the AMM (key off). If it starts and idles fine the AMM is bad. If no spark or fuel check the fuses for the 2 fuel pumps and the 25 amp fuse by the battery. Fuses need to be clean with tight contact. 25 amp fuse, check the connection at the battery and spade lugs for corrosion. Fuel system relay under the glove box, it should click twice as you turn the key to start. If not replace it and keep a known good spare in the glove box for future troubleshooting and use. Dan http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387421&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 00:57 GMT I remove the wheel to get better access. The inner sleeve of the bushing may be rusted to the control arm. If the sleeve is left behind I found heating it and using vise grips and maybe a little persuasion with a hammer helped get it loose. Dan http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387405&rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 22:22 GMT Let us know what you think. This bushing takes a beating, you will probably find one or both of them have failed. Dan http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387257&rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 02:26 GMT http://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/EngineOBDCodes.htm Found in the 700 900 faq's above is the procedure to test OBD codes. Air Mass Meter has an electrical connector on it and is in the large tube between the air filter and the throttle body. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387237&rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:19 GMT Read the codes on you OBD module and tell us what they are. Remove fuse 6 to erase codes and see if they come back. Spin fuse 4 and 6 to clean up the contact point. Remove the AMM connector (key off) to see if it idles fine when it gives you troouble. Dan http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387234&rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:04 GMT If it runs good, looks good inside and out at $1400 it's a deal. Look for rust and plan on $500 to $1000 the first year to get it in great shape. The more you work on it the more you will appreciate it. Dan http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387214&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 22:05 GMT Art That idea may very well have come from you several years ago but as they say the mind is a terrible thing. One thing is for sure I did get the idea right here on the BB. The only one I have had fail did squeal like a pig. Dan http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387057&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 03:25 GMT Glad I could help, scamtech rubber strikes again. Dan http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387034&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 01:52 GMT Take your time, if you only heat the shell to the point the rubber separates from the shell you won't have the fire. You do this outside with good ventilation and a water hose nearby. Dan http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387025&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:52 GMT Once you clean out the old shell they press in by hand. Dan http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387024&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 00:49 GMT I just replaced one this weekend that I marked 4 years ago when I got the car. The line had not moved but the cracks in the rubber made me decide to replace it anyway. I carry a small Craftsman bag of tools and a few spares in the trunk just in case. Dan http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386834&rss=1 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 02:29 GMT Can you draw a white line across both metal parts and see if the line separates after use or squeal. Dan http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386819&rss=1 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 01:40 GMT If you don't have cruise control, it's probably for that. Dan http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386796&rss=1 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 00:33 GMT You probably only need the rear bushing, the fronts don't seem to go bad. I use poly in this location because it is very easy to do in your driveway. Yes the bushings cost more but you don't need to remove the control arm and pay someone to replace the pressed in bushing. You only remove the rear bushing housing and then heat up the old shell with a Berzomatic until the rubber separates from the shell. Clean up the shell and slide in the new poly bushing and there is no need to worry about preloading the suspension. I have done this 4 times and very pleased with the results. There is no additional road noise or harshness in the ride. Dan http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386773&rss=1 Mon, 16 Nov 2009 23:34 GMT If you have no spark and wet spark plugs it might be the power stage/ ignition amplifier in Art's picture. It is mounted to the left front of the battery. Dan http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386736&rss=1 Mon, 16 Nov 2009 21:38 GMT I have never used a compound on battery terminals, just a clean roughed up surface on both parts has always worked for me. I was intrigued by the apparent snake oil characteristics of better conductivity. but I do like the anti corrosion part. Have to give it a try. Dan http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386514&rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 20:02 GMT I never knew the stuff existed but the value is a better connection between the battery post and the connectors. Toss in corrosion protection and it seems like a win win to me. Dan http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386502&rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 19:34 GMT The black wire should be to the oil pressure sender for the idiot light. A large and small red wire is attached to the alternator and there should also be a ground wire from the block to the body of the alternator. Dan http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386497&rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 19:08 GMT Look at both motor mounts and the trans mounts, it might be time for all 3. Dan http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386488&rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 18:42 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/