http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=17233 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 21:27 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 21:27 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. When you disassemble the TB there is a small seal on the shaft between the return spring and the body of the TB. Also I have heard of an O ring between the TPS and the TB (700/900 FAQ's), I have never seen one of these O rings on any Volvo. Does anyone know where I can get these two seals. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=749084&rss=1 Thu, 5 Feb 2004 13:36 GMT I have been posting problems here for seven months now (See my previous posts) trying to solve a problem with my car. I have replaced EVERYTHING that could have been the problem. Including all new wiring (TWICE)!!!Last night (3 O'clock this morning) I was tinkering with my new DVOM trying to make sense out of the ECT readings. That's when I discovered that the ECT traced to the EZK Module and the Knock Sensor traced to the LH Jetronic. THIS IS BACKWARDS!!!I went to the engine, swapped the IDENTICAL connectors and SHAZAM!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!! A NEW VOLVO !!!!!!!!!!! Now it's time for Nivomats or an AW-70!!!!! Thanks to everyone who helped me in this endeavor. I was getting tired of everyone asking me if my TB was clean. I can see myself in the throttle plate for Pete's sake, LOL. **Kurt is now doing his HAPPY DANCE...please stand back fellow Bricksters** http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=746247&rss=1 Sat, 31 Jan 2004 14:52 GMT No, I don't mind you asking at all. ONES IN MY LEFT HAND AND THE OTHER'S IN MY RIGHT!!! LMAO I didn't mean on the car silly. You'll have to excuse me I'm in a GREAT mood because I just solved a problem I've had for six months. I had the wrong connectors on my ECT and Knock Sensor. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=746241&rss=1 Sat, 31 Jan 2004 14:37 GMT 1986 740GLE B230F I have two fuel pressure regulators. One is part #0280160225 (standard FPR for my B230F) and the other is #0280160294 (89-92 with a cold start injector). I'm assuming that these two FPR's have different PSI characteristics. If anyone knows a few details about these please let me know something. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=745974&rss=1 Sat, 31 Jan 2004 00:45 GMT 1986 740 GLE My question is just as stated in my subject. My IAC vibrates very very rapidly and constantly. Should it do this. I have 5 of them and they all do it. Either it's normal or my signal is corrupted. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=744345&rss=1 Wed, 28 Jan 2004 13:40 GMT I have a 1986 740 GLE. My problem is with testing the ECT at the LH Jetronic unit. I read in the FAQ's that I should test my values at pin 13 and 5 of the connector. 13 on my unit is a thick gray wire that goes to the grounding side of my injectors. My ECT wiring goes through the firewall on the driver's side and then into the control module by the brake pedal. I assume it goes from there to the LH but Im not sure which wires carry it there. My question is simple. Is someone POSITIVE that I should be checking 13 and 5. If not, which pins should I use? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=744342&rss=1 Wed, 28 Jan 2004 13:34 GMT Remove center console. mine was clipped to the mounting bracket for the brake handle. Looks similiar to the J and K relays on the relay board. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=743301&rss=1 Mon, 26 Jan 2004 21:20 GMT I'm trying to test my ECT's. I have three of them on a bench. I have frozen them and heated them in water. My problem is that the Ringlee FAQ's say that resistance should be 2300 Ohms at 68 degrees. I am reading about 600 Ohms on all three. Am I reading my meter right? I have it set on 2000. Even at 20K Ohms it just moves the decimal point. The highest resistance in ice was 1600 Ohms. I can't remember what the resistance in boiling water was, but it was close to 120 Ohms or so. Is the resistance different on the bench as opposed to being connected to the engine and harness? If not then all three of my sensors are bad, right? Maybe my DVOM is wrong, hmmmm???? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=742959&rss=1 Mon, 26 Jan 2004 11:46 GMT Thanks http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=742926&rss=1 Mon, 26 Jan 2004 07:30 GMT I would like to change the ground for the injectors and everything else on the fuel rail. Can I move all the grounds to the body or the block. Or, can I put a ground strap from the body to the fuel rail between the grounds and the rail? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=742887&rss=1 Mon, 26 Jan 2004 05:26 GMT I found a small relay inside my center console. Not in the relay panel but connected to the end of some wires. I can hear it clicking. Does anyone know what this relay is for? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=742885&rss=1 Mon, 26 Jan 2004 05:17 GMT I solved the Hot-Start problem. It was my BATTERY. It seems that it was on its last legs and was only 525 CCA. I switched to a 700 CCA and it hasn't missed a lick yet. It also helps when I'm testing wiring connections in my garage until 4a.m.! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=742820&rss=1 Mon, 26 Jan 2004 03:19 GMT Part of your diagnosis seems to be correct. I have MANY IAC valves. I have just discovered that when I connect any of them, the ALL vibrate (HARD). Yet when I rev the engine or change other parameters, the valves do not move, the only vibrate in one spot. Im talking about the car running (With an IAC on it) and connecting the connector to another IAC. I was trying to see how it functions while the car is running. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=742815&rss=1 Mon, 26 Jan 2004 03:15 GMT I think I see what you're saying. The puter is "telling" the IAC how to behave but something else in the system is calling for a different condition. Like the ECT signal or something is conflicting with IAC signal. Interesting, does anyone have any idea what would cause this. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=742812&rss=1 Mon, 26 Jan 2004 03:09 GMT It is a rotary style (3-wire). As I said, I have several and they ALL vibrate. Either they are supposed to do this or there is something wrong with the signal. Please help me confirm this hypothesis. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=742811&rss=1 Mon, 26 Jan 2004 03:06 GMT I am guilty of repeating my posts. I am aware now that it takes a while to get posted. I am also guilty of reposting items that I feel have not gotten enough attention. If someone (One of the TRUE gurus) would help me out I wouldn't be so desperate. Believe me, I understand that this processs isn't magic. I have two motorcycles and various other vehicles that I maintain and I rely on bulletin boards like this one for ALL of my unusual problems. This Volvo has me STUMPED! I have unfortunately fallen in love with the car. I want to get it right. I have one issue with this car that I can't seem to isolate. Base idle can be set at 700 but when you release the IAC it won't drop below 2000. If you will glance at my previous posts you will see that I have MANY parts to do my diagnostic tests with. I have change EVERYTHING that could be a problem, except the 02 sensor and the IAC (have four junkers but not sure if they are good). http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=742700&rss=1 Mon, 26 Jan 2004 00:06 GMT Just for a better understanding of how the computer controls the IAC, I disconnected the one on the car and connected the connector to a spare IAC that I have. To my shock it vibrated like crazy. I thought that maybe it was a bad IAC so I tried four more, they ALL vibrate. Is this normal? If it isn't normal, maybe that's the problem with my car! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=742693&rss=1 Sun, 25 Jan 2004 23:48 GMT I can set my base idle while grounding the IAC but after I release the IAC ground the engine revs to 2000+ RPMs. I have to turn the black screw all the way in to get it down to 1000 so I can drive it. Items replaced with junkyard parts (I have 4-5 of each part): IAC(they could all be junk); FPR; Coil; Cap & rotor; ECU; Both fuel pumps; AMM; Injectors; All relays; ECT; EzK module; plus lots of other "stuff"... It may be my inexperience with O2 sensors but mine seems to be responding slowly. Isn't it true, however, that it only contributes to the mixture equation when it reaches operating temp? The car exhibits this high idle problem even at first startup, before the car is even warmed up. The sensor moves the full range from .2 to .7 and responds to the lean and rich diagnostics as per the Ringlee FAQ's. It does NOT fluctuate while at idle, it stays at .7 until I induce a vacuum leak. It takes a few seconds for it to come down to .2. I have NO vacuum leaks. Timing is dead on. FPR has a steady stream out of retrun hose. New fuel filter. I have yet to check fuel pressure ( see $$$$$ for details), but I really don't think this is the problem (I have tried 3 FPRs, 2 in-tank pumps and 3 main pumps in several combinations). Flame trap is immaculate. TB and intake manifold are spotless. New intake gasket. TB and TPS are adjusted correctly. New Bosch platinum plugs. New Bougicord wires. Rewired entire harness under hood. I could have a bad part (possibly IAC) but I would like to have some suggestion as to which part I should buy new. I have been trying to avoid buying a $100 part only to find out that wasn't the problem. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=742604&rss=1 Sun, 25 Jan 2004 20:30 GMT If I ground the terminals in the connector itself I can make the computer think the switch is open or closed. I'm assuming that would indicate that the wiring and ECU are O.K. Let me know if this is wrong. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=742149&rss=1 Sat, 24 Jan 2004 20:47 GMT WHOA, BACK UP!!! LOL You've gotten my attention. Please elaborate fully and/or point me to some info on doing this with a boost gauge. I would LOVE to have a fuel economy indicator at this point to help diagnose my "sick-brick"! You da man http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=741921&rss=1 Sat, 24 Jan 2004 07:53 GMT Please tell me if these symptoms mean that my IAC is bad. If I ground the test point to set base idle I have to turn the black screw about halfway out to reach 700 RPMs. When I release the test point idle does not go up a few RPMs. It goes to about 2000! I have to turn the screw all the way in to get the idle down to about 1000 so I can atleast drive the car. Items replaced and quantities available for diagnostic swapping: IAC(4)(I don't really trust any of them right now though); distributor(4); AMM(3); TB & TPS(3); main fuel pump(3); tank pump(2); coil(3); cap & rotor(3); plug wires(3); FPR(3); injectors(16); fuel relays(6); ECUs 544(1), 511(2); ETC(3); Knock Sensors(3) The only reason I've listed everything is to demonstrate the pool of parts I have available for my shadetree diagnostics. I have doubts about ALL of my IACs. Two are 540s and two are 501s. All of them demonstrate eratic idle fluctuations. Im just not sure if it is the IAC or some other factor. I don't want to buy a new IAC only to find out that one of my used units was just as good. I have opened two of them. One had the typical wear grooves in the actuator but the other one (a "new-looking" 540) looked brand new inside. It moves freely and opens and closes quickly and fully with 12 volts. The engine and engine compartment are immaculately cleaned. I have rewired and rerouted ALL of my underhood harness. I spliced everything with solder and shrink tubing. No wires are crossed and all of my connections are A+. The TB plate and TPS are adjusted properly. Have not checked timing belt alignment marks yet but car runs like a top when it's in the right mood so I figure it probably hasn't slipped.I run my timing about 15 degrees BTDC. Plugs are Bosch Platinum. New battery and voltage regulator. Things that I KNOW are working: Hall sensor, ECT, Fuel pumps, FPR, TPS, COIL, ECU, AMM, and voltage regulator. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=741920&rss=1 Sat, 24 Jan 2004 07:48 GMT I have a cluster from a 1987 760 turbo. I want to put it into my 740 GLE non-turbo. I mainly want the voltmeter. My GLE cluster doesn't have one. Are these clusters interchangable? If not, please elaborate as to why not. Thanks in advance http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=741915&rss=1 Sat, 24 Jan 2004 07:14 GMT OK I found it. It is my central locking relay. The book says that K is the central locking relay until 1984 when it is dedicated to the lighting only. But the book didnt say they started using the L position for the locking..... http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=738839&rss=1 Sun, 18 Jan 2004 19:07 GMT If you flip your fuse panel over you will notice a very lovely and colorful "map" of the fuses on the top. I found that my car doesn't use the #3 fuse so I transfered the wires for #16 to #3. Be sure not to do this until you have corrected the problem that caused it to melt in the first place. And mark your changes for future owners and mechanics. I would mark the panel and the ashtray diagram. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=738817&rss=1 Sun, 18 Jan 2004 18:19 GMT If you look in the Ringlee files or in a repair manual you see that there is NO relay in the "L" position in the fuse panel. I have a socket there and it shares a red wire with the #1 fuse (the fuse for the main fuel pump). What does this socket go to and what relay should I have there. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=738814&rss=1 Sun, 18 Jan 2004 18:11 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/