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<title>Volvo: leugim&#x26;apos;s Brickboard Posts</title>
<link>http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=15836</link>
<description>The Volvo owner&#x27;s resource since 1997.</description>
<language>en</language>
<copyright>Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg</copyright>
<pubDate>Sat, 21 Nov 2009 19:29 GMT</pubDate>
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<category>volvo</category>
<ttl>1440</ttl>

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<description>The Volvo owner&#x27;s resource since 1997.</description>
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<item>
<title>[RWD] [200] [1993] Tailights revisited -posted by- leugim</title>
<description>Thanks, 

I am getting with Art to look closer at the cause.
The ground seemed a good connection, the question I am wondering is did a short cause the break in the board and subsequent melting? Or vice versa, did the break cause the short?

BTW  Aftermarket  ... from Lamps and Lenses.

Now the multitude of purists will flay me! 


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Happy Motoring!   93&#x27; 244  and  2002 S60&#x27;&#x27;&#x27;&#x27;&#x27;%%%% &#x27;</description>
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<pubDate>Fri,  4 Sep 2009 19:36 GMT</pubDate>
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<item>
<title>[RWD] [200] [1993] Tailights revisited -posted by- leugim</title>
<description>Art,
Are you around Friday or Saturday?
Miguel
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<pubDate>Fri,  4 Sep 2009 16:14 GMT</pubDate>
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<item>
<title>[RWD] [200] [1993] Tailights revisited -posted by- leugim</title>
<description>I recently replaced my rear light assemblies due to cracked lenses and water infiltration.

All seemed fine four about 4 months. Then, I started to get the dreaded bulb failure warning light.

Upon investigating I notice that the passenger position light was not working.  Initially hoping it was a bad bulb, I switched it out and found it was not the bulb.  I searched some more and found that the passenger brake light has a melted spot on the printed circuit.

Whatever could cause this?

I am planning on getting a new printed circuit and start again.  Other thoughts are apprciated as usual.

I don&#x27;t get to the internet everyday so if I don&#x27;t respond right away don&#x27;t be offended.

Thanks

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<pubDate>Thu,  3 Sep 2009 20:19 GMT</pubDate>
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<title>[RWD] [700] [1989] Can this happen? 740turbo -posted by- leugim</title>
<description>Certainly, but it wouldn&#x27;t happen suddenly.  The battery would have been draining while doing duty for the alternator and eventually your car would stop running. 

For more info try this link:

 http://www.misterfixit.com/alterntr.htm

You mentioned the loose belt.  If that was the cause, and not a bad alternator, you should be able to tighten the belt, jump start it and be good.


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<pubDate>Thu, 27 Aug 2009 12:16 GMT</pubDate>
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<title>[RWD] [200] [1991] Actually, now I want to sell it -posted by- leugim</title>
<description>Photos?

How much?
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<pubDate>Mon, 17 Aug 2009 22:32 GMT</pubDate>
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<item>
<title>[RWD] [200] [1993] Front suspension rebuild -posted by- leugim</title>
<description>Ryan,
$30 I can handle.  I had nightmares of it costing $100 +, when the shop says &#x22;time and material&#x22; ... I tremble.  But I guess they reach for the torches first.
Thanks
Miguel
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<pubDate>Tue,  4 Aug 2009 19:53 GMT</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title>[RWD] [200] [1993] Front suspension rebuild -posted by- leugim</title>
<description>I have removed the control arms and taken them to a shop to have the old bushings removed and new ones pressed in. I was glad to see they were shot (nothing worse than spending time replacing good parts) but kinda apprehensive that the rusted in bushings may cost me an arm and a leg to remove.

Any thoughts on typical costs/ shop time  for this?




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<pubDate>Tue,  4 Aug 2009 19:10 GMT</pubDate>
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<title>[RWD] [200] [1993] FCP front suspension kit -posted by- leugim</title>
<description>Paul, 
Thanks for the warning; The kit does not come with strut mounts. 

So are you saying Scan Tech bushings are ok?



 Volvo 240 Suspension Kit Contains the following 

274118 x 1 Piece- Front Left Ball Joint 
274119 x 1 Piece- Front Right Ball Joint 
1205825 x 2 Pieces- Front Control arm bushing front position 
1359812 x 2 Pieces- Front Control arm bushing rear postion 
1205991 x 4 Pieces - Sway Bar Link Bushings 
1206667 x 2 Pieces- Sway Bar Link Kit (links, bushings, washers, nuts) 
3516944 x 2 Pieces- Outer Tie Rods Ends 
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<pubDate>Tue, 28 Jul 2009 23:02 GMT</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title>[RWD] [200] [1993] FCP front suspension kit -posted by- leugim</title>
<description>I&#x27;ve finally got some dough to get the parts for the front end.  FCP Groton has a front suspension &#x22;kit&#x22;.

Has anyone bought this before?

How were the bushings ... I am a little leery of Scam Tech rubber.

Miguel
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<pubDate>Tue, 28 Jul 2009 22:50 GMT</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title>[RWD] [200] CEL 231/221 Improp. mix at cruise being tripped immediately upon startup -posted by- leugim</title>
<description>Dan,
My symptoms were the same.  I had 2-2-1 and 2-3-1 forever.  I was chasing air leaks, because I did not show symptoms of bad FPR and I had checked the voltage on the AMM. 

I had one time code of 2-3-2 after I replaced the seals on the fuel injectors, but that disappeared after resetting.

My biggest symptom was trouble with cold start and low rev stuttering.(starting from stops)   At cruise and highway speeds it was fine.

When I switched with Art Benstein&#x27;s good AMM it ran great.  My AMM in his car ran like garbage.  I stuck my bad AMM back in my car and it started and compensated/ adjusted back to stuttering from stops and running fine at cruise and Highway speeds. Drove home all fine.

The next day, it wouldn&#x27;t start at all!

I went to a pick n pull and found about 5 AMM&#x27;s that were 016&#x27;s.  I chose two from cars that were smashed rather than cars with good bodies.  The rationale was a car with a good body must have been running bad for someone to part with it.

I paid $43 a piece with no gaurantees from the pick n pull.  I got home, they both worked great.  Luck I guess.

Anyway the ones on e-bay were $50 and up and more with shipping.  I took the gamble.  But like I said, If you got another Volvo enthusiast down there that can run another 016 AMM on your car to see if that is what is causing your symptoms, you don&#x27;t have to roll the dice.

Call me if I can help  443-605-4875
Miguel


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<pubDate>Fri, 17 Jul 2009 20:49 GMT</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title>[RWD] [200] CEL 231/221 Improp. mix at cruise being tripped immediately upon startup -posted by- leugim</title>
<description>Dan,
I&#x27;m the &#x22;neighbor&#x22; Art was referring to. Sure sounds like what I had going on with mine.
 I picked up two 016&#x27;s that both worked fine and now have a spare. If you are in a pinch I would mail it to you for what I paid, plus postage. But then you are paying to swap what &#x22;may&#x22; be the problem.  It would be great if you could swap out with someone down in gator country to see if that is what it is.

Let me know if I can help.


Miguel
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<pubDate>Fri, 17 Jul 2009 16:25 GMT</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title>[RWD] [200] 016 AMM -posted by- leugim</title>
<description>Picked up two good AMM&#x27;s today at the pick n pull.

Thanks Art and Mike for the offer.

Thanks to all Brickboarders for their generous advice.  I really appreciate this board.
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<pubDate>Sat, 11 Jul 2009 15:26 GMT</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title>[RWD] [200] 016 AMM -posted by- leugim</title>
<description>After determining the AMM is bad (last post &#x22;too lean&#x22;).

I am looking for a verified good used 016 AMM.

Any body have one they wish to sell, drop me an e-mail.

mugarte2009@live.com

Thanks
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<pubDate>Fri, 10 Jul 2009 14:34 GMT</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title>[RWD] [200] [1993] Bad AMM! -posted by- leugim</title>
<description>Yesterday afternoon I met Art Benstein at  his house.  Art graciously offered a good 016 AMM to try out in my car.  We swapped AMM&#x27;s , my car ran well, his car coughed and died when my AMM was installed in it.

BINGO!

I hope to secure a used, verified good AMM online here ...
Thanks all for your assistance.
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<pubDate>Fri, 10 Jul 2009 13:53 GMT</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title>[RWD] [200] [1993] have you checked? -posted by- leugim</title>
<description>With the engine idling fine, would I notice any difference if there was a leak when I passed the propane by the area?  I tried yesterday but I think I need to undo the fan&#x27;s belt ... all the air from the fan seems to blow any propane away.

Is there a home brew method for smoke tests?

I checked the AMM with an Ohmmeter and found it to be in spec.  Also witnessed the burn off mode occuring (saw voltage after shutting engine off0.  I took off the AMM and cleaned the two outer screens, they were sort of dirty.

I am going to recheck for leak at manifold and test fuel pressure this weekend ...

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<pubDate>Wed,  1 Jul 2009 17:37 GMT</pubDate>
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<title>[RWD] [200] [1993] have you checked? -posted by- leugim</title>
<description>Rhys&#x27;
Will check that ... thanks
Miguel
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<pubDate>Wed, 24 Jun 2009 18:14 GMT</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title>[RWD] [200] [1993] Too lean ... -posted by- leugim</title>
<description>Oleseahorse,
I do not have a spare, should I clean it with AMM cleaner?

And what is the significance of Ole Sea Horse?

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<pubDate>Mon, 22 Jun 2009 18:50 GMT</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title>[RWD] [200] [1993] Too lean ... -posted by- leugim</title>
<description>Ok, I checked and the Brake booster check valve is good (only blows in one direction).  The rubber seal was good also.  In fact, when I pulled the check valve out there was a rush of air as the vacuum was being held.  

I&#x27;ll look at the FPR but that sounds the opposite of my symptoms and the when I looked at plugs the other day they had a beautiful light tan to them, not the dark and moist that one would expect from a failed FPR.
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<pubDate>Mon, 22 Jun 2009 12:25 GMT</pubDate>
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<item>
<title>[RWD] [200] [1993] Too lean ... -posted by- leugim</title>
<description>Thanks,
I&#x27;ll double check that.  The last time I checked it only blew in one direction, I&#x27;ll have a closer look at the seal also.
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<pubDate>Sat, 20 Jun 2009 20:07 GMT</pubDate>
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<title>[RWD] [200] [1993] Too lean ... -posted by- leugim</title>
<description>I have my check engine light on and I&#x27;ve been getting codes that say too lean/rich.  I failed emissions the last time I went reading too lean (NOx).  I&#x27;ve replaced vacuum hoses, cleaned throttle body, changed injector seals, changed air filter, cleaned and checked the bellows from the AMM up to the throttle body for leaks.  I checked the throttle position switch.

After I cleaned the throttle body I checked the two vacuum inlets inlets just
before the throttle body (from the canister down by the left front wheel) and did not get much suction ... is that normal?  

Also it will stall out when I first start it the morning and will stall agin when I first shift into gear.  Also if I pump the brakes the idle will go erratic, stumbling ...   


Any suggestions?



  
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<pubDate>Sat, 20 Jun 2009 19:32 GMT</pubDate>
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<item>
<title>[RWD] [200] [1989] tail light assemblies -posted by- leugim</title>
<description>http://www.lampsandlenses.com

$60.00 each plus shipping  (comes with new printed circuit board/foil as well)
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<pubDate>Mon, 15 Jun 2009 18:43 GMT</pubDate>
</item>
<item>
<title>[AWD] [S60] [2002] Torn CV boot -posted by- leugim</title>
<description>Will do ...
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<pubDate>Wed,  3 Jun 2009 19:01 GMT</pubDate>
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<item>
<title>[AWD] [XC90] [2007] &#x26;quot;Bulb Failure Postion Light&#x27; -posted by- leugim</title>
<description>The position light(s) is(are) the rear lights.  The S60 eats these for breakfast, so I buy them two at a time. I can&#x27;t get this bulb at the local parts store, it is a stealer item, about $2.50 each. The odd thing is it seems intermittent.  The warning comes on then goes off.  Maybe after two weeks the bulb finally goes kaput. The dealer says he sees this all the time.  It is a Volvo design issue to be sure.


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<pubDate>Wed,  3 Jun 2009 12:41 GMT</pubDate>
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<item>
<title>[AWD] [S60] [2002] Torn CV boot -posted by- leugim</title>
<description>I have an outer CV boot that is torn.  Passenger side.

Having never tackled one of these before,  how involved is it?  Any special tools required?

I&#x27;ve dropped a tranny and done the timing belt on a 240, so I have some skills.

Any input would be great.  I read some older 850 posts where it was suggested to swap the whole axle with it.  Probable route I am going to take.
Thanks
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<pubDate>Tue,  2 Jun 2009 21:47 GMT</pubDate>
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<title>[RWD] Private Brand Tires -posted by- leugim</title>
<description>Anyone have some good and bad stories on these.  Save a buck or cause of nightmares.  Looking for stories.
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<pubDate>Fri, 29 May 2009 16:12 GMT</pubDate>
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