http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=15600 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sun, 22 Nov 2009 05:46 GMT Sun, 22 Nov 2009 05:46 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. You can swap in an internal regulator and do away with the external regulator and separate brushes setup. Or upgrade to a newer higher amp alternator from a newer 240. Check out PickNPulls in your area. Pull just the brushes or the whole alt. Sorry don't know max lengths but as long as they are above minimum and making contact with rings, should work. Get that exciter wire fixed. A lot easier to do than soldering brushes and more important than brush length. -- 1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386427&rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 12:51 GMT Yep, check the flame trap. Excess pressure will cause seals to leak. Supposedly, with the engine running, if the oil cap isn't being sucked down but is jiggling from pressure, your flame trap needs attending. If your timing belt got oily, it may need replacement as the oil softens the teeth and causes them to shear off. Leaving you stranded. There's a certain satisfaction that comes with doing a seal and timing belt replacement. Try it. Removal with a dental pick? Or try drilling small holes in seal, insert small screw and pull on screw. Use the old seals to knock the new ones into place. -- 1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386424&rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 12:42 GMT Try petroleum jelly (Vaseline) on the posts to prevent corrosion. -- 1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386421&rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 12:32 GMT I recall you looking for a carburetor intake manifold for a B21 some time back for the Vauxhall. Your project was going quite slowly, wondered how it was going, so took a shot. (Canada had the carburetted B21A until '84. So they were available up here, but the border may have been the problem. Getting hard to find now.) Interestingly, though, I think the newer B230 engine can also be converted to carb. Ie. According to my Haynes, though computerized, the idler has remnants to drive a mechanical fuel pump (and distributor can be switched for one with vacuum control, counter weights, points/pickup). But it will still be the manifold that is needed. -- 1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386420&rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 12:28 GMT You need to find yourself a decent parts car. Put an ad in Craigslist asking for something headed to the wreckers. Get it, strip it and store the parts (maybe in an abandoned Vauxhaul). With struts pull the whole unit, with rotor maybe even caliper, so you don't have to worry about bearing size change, spring compressors etc. until you are ready. (I pulled my pair at a $45 all-you-can-carry day and worked on them at home.) -- 1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386208&rss=1 Sat, 14 Nov 2009 12:27 GMT Yeah. It looks like a ballast resistor offering two resistances. Don't know why it's there. My '80 and '84 had the BR on the strut tower under the right hood hinge. Even though the ignition coil is near the battery. -- 1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384088&rss=1 Wed, 4 Nov 2009 12:50 GMT When you need more push or pull, try ratcheting tie downs. Cheap and helpful. -- 1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384086&rss=1 Wed, 4 Nov 2009 12:40 GMT The reason butyl rubber is "illegal" is because modern cars require the windshield to be incorporated into their structure to give the body strength. So the windshield is glued in. Older Volvos were pretty strong. If you still need the product try http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/3MAutomotive/Aftermarket/Products/Product-Catalog/?PC_7_RJH9U5230GE3E02LECFTDQCEK3_nid=JF5TT3S6PTbeNGQGZXQ0C5gl You may be able to buy it off-the-shelf at some auto stores. Since the windshield is good you can re-use it. Myself I did away with the clips and trim. Used Polyurethane since butyl not available locally. (The polyurethane for windshields is quick set stuff.) And filled in the depression around the glass (that is normally covered by trim) with more polyurethane from Home Depot. Found that it is easier scrapping off ice without the trim in the way. -- 1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383807&rss=1 Tue, 3 Nov 2009 12:05 GMT I haven't seen a cargo cover before, but it looks like it, from the hardware shown, resembles a window blind. In which case, would a window blind work? -- 1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381413&rss=1 Fri, 23 Oct 2009 12:58 GMT ODGuru, a member and regular to this board, would probably be your best adviser. -- 1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381412&rss=1 Fri, 23 Oct 2009 12:52 GMT Just get the largest battery with the best Cold Cranking Amps and Reserve that will fit your tray. Costco? -- 1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380979&rss=1 Wed, 21 Oct 2009 13:38 GMT Hey, guys. You can put the car down. I thought of something. -- 1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380442&rss=1 Mon, 19 Oct 2009 13:18 GMT Bad cables coupled with dampness could be the problem. At night, in the dark, pop the hood and look for arcing with the engine running. During the day, you could lean against the body and run your hands along cables to feel for arcing. WD40 is designed to exclude water, so spray cables, distributor cap, etc. -- 1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1380279&rss=1 Sun, 18 Oct 2009 12:02 GMT Methyl alcohol - available in jugs at Home Depot in paint section. But it evaporates like crazy. I wash out the brakes with dish detergent and water, then dunk and reassemble them in clean brake fluid that will absorb the water and lubricate. Re: Bench bleeding. Brake fluid is cheap enough. Why bother hooking up tubes to recycle expelled fluid to reservoir? Wear safety glasses. Fill reservoir with fluid. Push piston (air then fluid is expelled into rag), block ports with fingers (to stop air from being sucked back in) and release piston (fluid replenished from reservoir). On installation into car: with pressure bleeder working, crack open lines at m/c so some fluid squirts out, then tighten. -- 1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378086&rss=1 Thu, 8 Oct 2009 12:55 GMT I had the front on ramps. Didn't need tranny jack. Put a bar across the shifter hole. Wrapped a racheting tie down around rear of tranny and up around bar. Raised rear of tranny. Then lifted and swung front into place. Bolt can be reached through shifter hole with extensions. Tie downs good for pulling apart/together things. -- 1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377290&rss=1 Mon, 5 Oct 2009 12:10 GMT try http://www.nuceng.ca/bill/volvo/database/tranny.htm -- 1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1373325&rss=1 Fri, 18 Sep 2009 11:30 GMT When my odo stopped, it turned out that the plastic gear wheel was cracked and was loose on the metal shaft. (Lost its grip.) Gear slides off from the side without opening metal casing. So I used small o-rings (sliced off tip of wiper(?) fluid tubing) on the "shoulders" to tighten the grip and used loctite to secure the wheel to the shaft. Has held for years. -- 1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1373090&rss=1 Thu, 17 Sep 2009 12:04 GMT I misread the subject line. I'd just finished reading about a cooling system problem and remained thinking about those belts. -- 1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1372804&rss=1 Wed, 16 Sep 2009 13:26 GMT You mentioned that you needed another charged battery to get it re-started. Also it had trouble starting on subsequent tries. Right? If so then probably charging system not working. Measure the voltage at the battery posts with engine running. Should be at least about 13.5V, if not then charging system problem. -- 1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1372250&rss=1 Mon, 14 Sep 2009 12:11 GMT Too much tension will cause stress on the water pump and alternator bearings causing them to fail prematurely. The Water pump would probably go first. You'll note there are two belts. They provide more gripping area. This is so you can ease up on the tension and still get both the alt and the water pump, to provide juice under less stress. -- 1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1372247&rss=1 Mon, 14 Sep 2009 12:02 GMT I've found racheting tie downs to be useful in pulling things apart and together. As well as holding things up (eg. rear of M46 while manipulating front). Didn't need tranny jack. -- 1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1370628&rss=1 Mon, 7 Sep 2009 11:56 GMT The brake booster was easy to replace in my '80. As for PnP ones, I'd go for it. They seem to give warning of impending failure and the brakes will still work even though not be boosted. Pick up 2. Keep one as a spare. -- 1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1368663&rss=1 Fri, 28 Aug 2009 12:37 GMT Supposedly Jeeps use the same rear end. @SM, Where's your buddy AyeRoll? -- 1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1366332&rss=1 Sun, 16 Aug 2009 11:50 GMT Fix it. 240 Wagons, as you may have noticed, are very practical beasts. Good cargo volume, tow capacity and mileage. If going on a long trip, a 245 would be my choice. Many DIY's claim that '88s are the best of the breed. You got it cheap haven't put much into it and you have a 5 speed too. Why are you even looking? -- 1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1366331&rss=1 Sun, 16 Aug 2009 11:45 GMT I've seen a specialized gauge dash (Sports/GT cluster?) that replaces the regular instrument cluster of the pre-81 dashes. All round gauges. Sorry no pics. -- 1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb but electronic ignition and M46 trans in Brampton, Ont. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1365568&rss=1 Wed, 12 Aug 2009 13:25 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/