http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=15548 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 04:05 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 04:05 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. You are going to get a variety of responses so I'll save everyone else the time... Some will tell you they've had nothing but good dealings with JP. Their emails were answered promptly and their products shipped quickly. Others will tell you they waited months, sometimes years, to get an item they paid for months or years ago. It would seem once he has your money the rest isn't real important. I have no actual experience although I have a very close friend that waited over a year for a cylinder head to be ported and sent back. Take from that what you will... -- Dale http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387241&rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 00:52 GMT Coronas are 14" and not light. The GT wheels are actually the lightest wheel Volvo offered and are quite desirable to those in rally circles... -- Dale http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387037&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 02:06 GMT I see they sell SuperPro endlink bushings or, at least, they have a picture of the SuperPro bushings. However, the accessory bushings look to be black and will not be SuperPro. They have 3 different listings for accessory bushings. All are different prices and all should be the same item. They don't suggest whether one is poly and one is rubber. I'd be concerned about what I might get since they don't seem to have any idea what they actually have... -- Dale http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386523&rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 21:02 GMT http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1190686/120-130/122_stereo_installation.html or http://www.calgaryvolvoclub.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=953 -- Dale http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386447&rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 15:04 GMT I presume the 944 is naturally aspirated? If so, both cars should have the same power since they have basically the same engine. Having said that, there is some reason the 944 moves more quickly than the 240. Obviously if the 944 is turbocharged it will and should move much more quickly than the 240. There aren't a lot of camshaft options for n/a cars, particularly 7 and 9 series cars that require a distributor drive slot in the cam. IPD did offer the VX cam at one point (maybe they still do?) for naturally aspirated B230 powered cars. They claim it to be more powerful. I'm not sure you could tell the differences in cams by looking at one lobe down the oil filler cap opening. However, you might be able to tell whether it's an original Volvo cam or an aftermarket cam. The original Volvo cam will have shiny lobes as they used a hardening/chroming process on their cams. Any aftermarket cam I've seen has black lobes from a carburizing/hardening process. If it does have a performance camshaft, you should notice a couple of things. First is it will have less oomph off the line than the 240. Second is it will have more mid and high rpm power. If not, I'd say your 240 isn't running like it should... -- Dale http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386124&rss=1 Fri, 13 Nov 2009 23:39 GMT There were two of these cars on eBay a couple of years back listed by a gent in California I'm sure some here know or know of. One was an original black car. The other was a restored red (not correct red) car. IIRC, both went for more than this car and both went to the same buyer in Norway. I don't think the asking price is outrageous in this case if the information provided is correct. Cars are worth what someone is willing to pay. Perhaps what you're willing to pay is considerably less than the next guy. Coming out and saying it's worth $xyz is nothing more than voicing an opinion based on what you have interpreted from the information provided. Here is another good example... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320444432399&category=31877&_trksid=p3841.m263&_trkparms=algo%3DSI%26itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D15%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D54 What is that car worth? Based on the information provided in the listing, you can formulate an opinion. Now...if you knew how many hundreds of hours the seller has put into the restoration and modification of this car and if you have worked on and ridden in the car and watched the way the owner has babied that car over the last 6 or 7 years and the painstaking lengths he went to to make it what it is, would your evaluation change? Absolutely. I probably think this car is worth 2 or 3 times what an "outsider" does. Yes, the car belongs to a good friend of mine. Yes, I've worked on it and ridden in it. Yes, it's perfect in every way. And yes, it breaks my heart (and his obviously) to see it get sold... -- Dale http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385433&rss=1 Tue, 10 Nov 2009 23:47 GMT Can you provide a picture? I don't think the bearings are made of any magnetic material. That said, it's difficult to guess. If I had to I might suggest the bits may have been sitting in your pan for a while and only showed up when you stuck a magnet in there. If oil pressure is good, the engine runs smoothly and has no strange noises coming from it, I'd suggest all is well... -- Dale http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385256&rss=1 Tue, 10 Nov 2009 01:22 GMT Just unplug the AMM and see how it runs. It'll throw a code but will run relatively well in "limp" mode. This should give you some indication if the AMM is the problem. Mind you, I suspect it should go into some sort of limp mode if the AMM is bad and ignore the signal anyway. Not certain about that though... -- Dale http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1379035&rss=1 Mon, 12 Oct 2009 22:56 GMT I would presume they've checked to be sure the idle control valve is operating smoothly? A sticky idle control valve will cause surging like you describe. What you haven't mentioned is if the engine is running on all 6 cylinders. If a coil power stage module is intermittent you will have situations where the car has absolutely no power and then, like a switch is turned on, the car will have full power. A bad coil power stage will cause the engine to miss on 3 consecutive firings so the "miss" is quite pronounced and the whole car will rock. At idle the idle control valve and electronics will actually keep the engine idling at normal speed so the miss is not nearly as pronounced as when you try to accelerate. What was the code for the check engine light? -- Dale http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378928&rss=1 Mon, 12 Oct 2009 14:59 GMT Is it physically possible to reverse 3 and 4? If so, I might swap them and see if it makes a difference... -- Dale http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1378094&rss=1 Thu, 8 Oct 2009 13:30 GMT Pretty tough to do. There are no plug wires. It's coil on plug and the wires from the power stages are pretty difficult, if not impossible to mix up... -- Dale http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1377465&rss=1 Tue, 6 Oct 2009 02:02 GMT Loud tapping noises are generally not good. Unfortunately, to give you a better diagnosis, we need more information. Is the car running on all 4 cylinders? What is compression like? Have you had the valve cover off? Does everything look normal? As in no bits and pieces floating around? A plugged PCV will do some strange things but loud tapping noises isn't usually one of them. Oil coming out of the filler cap can just be a bad seal although it can also mean positive crankcase pressure (which can be caused by a blocked PCV). You would generally find oil leaking from other seals (camshaft, crankshaft, rear main) if you've got too much pressure in the crankcase. Are you sure the noise isn't coming from the exhaust manifold? A leaky manifold gasket will make a sound like a tapping noise and can be pretty loud. -- Dale http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1376867&rss=1 Sat, 3 Oct 2009 05:26 GMT Like absolute crap. It's 3 consecutive, not 3 alternating, so the car rocks like crazy. And we're not talking about 1/2 the hp either. It's more like 1/3 with all the pumping losses in the cylinders not making power. Can't get out of its own way... -- Dale http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1376042&rss=1 Tue, 29 Sep 2009 22:01 GMT There are two. You can see one on the front of the intake pipe right by the throttle body (below the intake manifold). The other is in the same position but on the firewall side of the intake pipe. The front one is easy to get at. The back one? Not so much... -- Dale http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1375820&rss=1 Tue, 29 Sep 2009 02:36 GMT At full suspension droop the top of the endlinks will need to come forward. That's just mechanics dictating that. If they are tilted forward with the car sitting on the ground you don't have the right swaybar... -- Dale http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1374324&rss=1 Tue, 22 Sep 2009 13:23 GMT "It seems like the trivial issues like upgrades are magnets for comments." That's because the more trivial the question, the broader the base of knowledge as a collective unit. As the issues get tougher, fewer people have the knowledge base to help out. Unfortunately it seems the more knowledgeable ones are on the board less frequently... -- Dale http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1372198&rss=1 Mon, 14 Sep 2009 03:31 GMT If all the bushings are wrecked they will not let their associated parts do their job, so yes, the axle will twist when the bushings are shot. My point is it is not the job of the bushings to prevent this from happening. The torque rods and trailing arms take care of this. There is no need for the shells or crush tubes to be permanently bonded to the bushing material as it has no effect on if/how the axle moves provided everything is in the condition it should be. -- Dale http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1371900&rss=1 Sat, 12 Sep 2009 23:51 GMT The first experience we had doing this we drilled a bunch of small holes around the perimeter of the middle sleeve and then grabbed it with vice grips and twisted it out. -- Dale http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1371793&rss=1 Sat, 12 Sep 2009 13:32 GMT The torque rods are there to prevent the axle from twisting. This is not a job for bushings or shock absorbers... -- Dale http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1371494&rss=1 Thu, 10 Sep 2009 23:43 GMT Drove the car around town for 7 hours today and not a hiccup. Seems like we may have busted this one... Thanks for the suggestions guys... -- Dale http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1369314&rss=1 Mon, 31 Aug 2009 23:00 GMT "Does it ONLY occur after a fuel fill up?" No...that's when it initially occurred. Since then it seems to be random although it's only when the car has been running for a while so heat soak into the coil modules is certainly a possibility... We'll see if it happens again tomorrow when I'll be driving the car for most of the day. -- Dale http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1369073&rss=1 Sun, 30 Aug 2009 23:37 GMT Thanks for the response TF. I suspect the crank trigger might be original. This car doesn't have a ton of miles on it and the engine and tranny have never been split. Was asking Matt about a cam or crank trigger and he gave me a reasonable explanation why he thought not. So, for the time being, I'll dismiss that. I also suspect the crank sensor is what triggers the coil modules. If there was an intermittent signal it would drop 3 or 6, never just 1 or 2, which is how this starts out. The wiring on that car is in very nice shape. I have not inspected it closely but will start to trace things back if my current fix does not cure the problem. Cheers, -- Dale http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1368992&rss=1 Sun, 30 Aug 2009 14:43 GMT We'll see, now that I've replaced what looks to be an original module...the rear one. That's quite a treat to get at, I must say. However, I'm pretty sure the front module does not control 1,2 and 3 but rather 3 consecutive cylinders in the firing order. the rear module controls the other three. I read that in my green book on 960 wiring. This is what led me to think it might be a module. When it starts missing really badly, the engine will rock the whole car, like it's missing on three consecutive firings. I suspect the front module has been replaced as it is a slightly different package than the rear. Still Bosch and the same part number but slightly different. -- Dale http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1368990&rss=1 Sun, 30 Aug 2009 14:35 GMT '92 960... Last May when we were heading to Portland our 960 had a bit of a hiccup. After filling it at one stop it started to miss. At first it seemed like a bit of a mis-fire but then it got worse and eventually was acting like it was missing on 3 of the 6 cylinders it has. Not only did it seem like it was missing on 3, it seemed like 3 consecutive. The whole car would rock back and forth. It was nasty. Apparently the was black smoke and flames spitting out the tailpipe too. The flames part is relatively important as it points to an ignition problem, not a fuel problem. Anyhow, this went on for a few minutes and then went away...quite abruptly. For the next 400km it ran like a dream. However, after the next fuel stop it did exactly the same thing...and then abruptly stopped again. For entire rest of the week and the entire trip home it ran without so much as a hiccup. Fast forward a month or two and my wife comes home one day saying the car was doing its thing again. Then again and again. I decided it was time to give something a try so I replaced all the coils and spark plugs. That cleared everything up and the ran ran flawlessly...until yesterday. It acted up for about 1/2 hour and then quit abruptly, just like before. Again today it did it, not once, but twice. So...some input? I've got a set of coil control modules that will go in this weekend. Anything else might cause this behaviour? How about a bad knock sensor? If the computer was seeing horrible knock would it pull enough timing out to make it start missing? It gets gradually worse. It does not start out missing on 3. FWIW, the control modules control 3 consecutive firings in the firing order. Seems a bit silly to me to do that but the engineers that designed it have a little more knowledge about this stuff than I do so who am I to question? If one module goes bad, it'll miss on 3, fire on 3 etc. Makes for a pretty crazy idle and absolutely no power... I put one coil module in today (I figure if I replace both, I'll have to toss both old ones out as I won't know which one was the bad one). Now we wait... Thanks in advance, -- Dale http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1368899&rss=1 Sat, 29 Aug 2009 22:32 GMT I swapped the rear power stage on mine today. Hope you have "bendy" wrists. Might actually be easier to get at that one from underneath... -- Dale http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1368897&rss=1 Sat, 29 Aug 2009 22:23 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/