http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=15053 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 04:16 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 04:16 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Window mount antennas are really crummy. Lots of static and noise. Stay away. On my 122, I just installed a $10 whip antenna from a local autoparts store. It works quite well for the original AM (Bendix) radio in the car. There was a hole already in the passenger front fender from a previous antenna (which was broken when I bought the car). Installing it was easy; I had it done in about 10 minutes. There isn't anything particularly fancy about car radio antennas. Just avoid the window ones. I'd suggest mounting the antenna on the passenger side of the car to keep it further away from the distributor (a big source of interference.) -- <a href http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387524&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 16:31 GMT Hi Will, That won't work. I'll need to have speakers in the rear, as I'm installing a 5.1 surround sound system in the car. I purchaced a Sony SACD head unit. Mounting a Center channel will be the next challenge... but I think I've got something figured out there. -- <a href='http://dylans122.blogspot.com'>http://dylans122.blogspot.com</a> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386926&rss=1 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 16:19 GMT Greetings all, I'm about to undertake a project that I'm sure many here have already done. I'm upgrading the audio in my '66 122 2-door and I'm looking for some ideas from others. I had mounted a single DIN HD Radio/CD player under the dash, as the car has a (working) original AM radio, and I didn't wish to cut a hole in the dash. That part of this project is done. The main issue I'm having is figuring out how to mount modern speakers. I'd like to hear from others here how they have mounted speakers in the front. I'm not interested in cutting holes in the door panels. For the rear speakers, I have a set of 6*9s that were in my 242 that I'd like to install in the 122. I'd prefer to not cut holes into the shelf if at all possible. I've seen cars that have speaker boxes installed on the back shelf but I always thought that looked a bit tacky. There must be a more eloquent solution. Any pictures or advise is greatly appreciated. Thanks as always! -- <a href='http://dylans122.blogspot.com'>http://dylans122.blogspot.com</a> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386446&rss=1 Sun, 15 Nov 2009 14:55 GMT Can someone tell me what size the speaker for the AM radio behind the dash is? My HD radio went numb this week and so I'm back to using the Bendix in the dash for the time being. The speaker has seen better days though. I'd like to replace that speaker it with a newer one, I just don't know what size it is. Removing and replacing looks pretty straight forward. Any "gotchas" I should watch out for when doing this? Thanks as always. -- <a href='http://dylans122.blogspot.com'>http://dylans122.blogspot.com</a> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385345&rss=1 Tue, 10 Nov 2009 14:17 GMT If the 4 way flasher switch doesn't work, then the switch is probably bad. That switch needs to work in order to make the turn signals work normally (as the switch supplies power to the rest of the circuit even when you aren't using it.) Do you get nothing? Or do the lights come on and not flash? Maybe this is too simple but perhaps all 4 of the bulbs are burned out. -- <a href http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384019&rss=1 Wed, 4 Nov 2009 02:21 GMT What do you need? I've probably got the pictures. <img src='http://www.brickboard.com/GALLERY/images/5820.jpg'/> <img src='http://www.brickboard.com/GALLERY/images/5747.jpg'/> My leaky heater core: <img src='http://www.brickboard.com/GALLERY/images/5746.jpg'/> -- <a href='http://dylans122.blogspot.com'>http://dylans122.blogspot.com</a> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384012&rss=1 Wed, 4 Nov 2009 02:15 GMT This is in regards to my friend's '83 242, AW-70 tranny. My friend called me last night to tell me his 242 had died. I went to check it out for him and did the usual checks: 25 amp fuse, fuel pump relays, AMM. 25 amp fuse was fine, as were the fuel pump relays. I did the Air mass meter test by unplugging it to see if the car would start or run any differently, and I couldn't get it to run at all with it unplugged. The car has a difficult time starting. It turns and turns and turns and eventually will catch and fire. Idle fluctuates all over the place for a little while then it finally settles down. Once the car is put into gear, it will stall. Giving the car gas at idle will also cause it to stall. (It won't stall if you very gently lean into the gas.) Once the car is up to speed it seems to behave normally. I'm wondering if there might be a vacuum leak somewhere, but I looked and could not find one. The car has the white cap Chrysler ignition, and I'm going to throw on a fresh set of ignition parts (Cap, Rotor, Plugs, etc...) It hasn't been tuned in a couple of years, so it seems like a good place to start. After that I have no idea where to go. If the tune up doesn't solve this problem (and I get the feeling that it probably won't), what's the next step? Thanks as always! -- <a href http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383970&rss=1 Tue, 3 Nov 2009 23:11 GMT I'd bet your tranny is just low on fluid. -- <a href='http://dylans122.blogspot.com'>http://dylans122.blogspot.com</a> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382295&rss=1 Tue, 27 Oct 2009 15:30 GMT This is on the neighbor's car, 1988 245. I've been trying to diagnose a continual battery drain. With a freshly charged battery, everything seems to work just fine. Coming back after letting the car sit over night, the battery is dead. My first test was to check current through the fuses with the car switched off to see at least where the draw was coming from. There were several fuses that were hot with the car off, but only one (Fuse 8) had any draw. I unplugged that fuse and left the car to see if that was the cause, but sure enough, the next morning, the battery was dead again. I'm not sure of the condition of the battery. The owner says it was replaced not too long ago. What's the next step? I'm not sure where to proceed from here. Thanks! -- <a href='http://dylans122.blogspot.com'>http://dylans122.blogspot.com</a> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382294&rss=1 Tue, 27 Oct 2009 15:24 GMT Everything is relative, I guess. That said, I too live in Oregon, and this summer when we hit 107, my 122 did just fine with a 195 degree thermostat. -- <a href='http://dylans122.blogspot.com'>http://dylans122.blogspot.com</a> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1381095&rss=1 Wed, 21 Oct 2009 21:49 GMT The coupler is brand new as well. -- <a href='http://dylans122.blogspot.com'>http://dylans122.blogspot.com</a> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1374452&rss=1 Tue, 22 Sep 2009 23:32 GMT Greetings all, My steering box seems to be very loose. I just took the car down to San Francisco and back, and at the start of the trip, all seemed well, but by the time I got back to Portland the wheel seemed loose. The car tracked all over the road on the way back. LOTS of tiny steering corrections were needed at all times. All the suspension parts are brand new (tie rods, ball joints, shocks, bushings, etc...) Car was alligned before I left. Tires have been balanced as well. I'm pretty sure it's the steering box because when the car is at a stop, there's a lot of play at the wheel. In the past there hasn't been any. What's involved in tightening the Steering box? Thanks! -- <a href='http://dylans122.blogspot.com'>http://dylans122.blogspot.com</a> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1374449&rss=1 Tue, 22 Sep 2009 23:13 GMT I agree it's not a huge deal in the grand scheme of things. There are a couple of reasons why I'd like a more accurate speedo: I'd like the odometer to work correctly, and the more important reason is for other drivers. (I'm planning a trip to San Francisco from Portland next week, and I won't be doing all the driving. My co-traveler will be behind the wheel some of that time.) -- <a href='http://dylans122.blogspot.com'>http://dylans122.blogspot.com</a> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1371202&rss=1 Wed, 9 Sep 2009 20:54 GMT How difficult is the swap? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1369352&rss=1 Tue, 1 Sep 2009 02:05 GMT Howdy all, My '66 130 (2 door) is currently wearing a m-41 transmission, and my speedometer hasn't read correctly since I did the tranny swap. As it stands, the speedo reads too slow. I don't remember how many teeth are on the gear inside the tranny at the moment, it's a D-type that came out of an 1800 (as I recall). Does anyone know what gear I'd need to make the speedo read correctly? Thanks as always. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1369145&rss=1 Mon, 31 Aug 2009 06:04 GMT It sure sounds like a timing issue to me. Perhaps you could advance the timing a degree or two (unless that causes it to ping.) -- <a href='http://dylans122.blogspot.com'>http://dylans122.blogspot.com</a> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1363948&rss=1 Tue, 4 Aug 2009 22:45 GMT Hello all, To make a long story short, my '66 122 2-door currently has a b-20 in it. I have an alternator designed for a 140 on the car. In order to make it fit I had used a couple of spacers on the bolts that hold the alt in place. On my way into work tonight the bottom blot came loose, and the spacer fell out. I was able to save the bolt but the spacer is now gone. Does anyone know off hand what the off-set between the 140 and 122 is for the alternator? The last time I made the spacers I used trial and error to get everything lined up (not having anything to compare with). It was a time consuming process that I'd like to avoid if at all possible. If someone knows the measurement it would save me a lot of time. Any tips for keeping those alternator bolts in place? I tried lock-tite on the bolt, and it didn't work. Thanks as always! -- <a href='http://dylans122.blogspot.com'>http://dylans122.blogspot.com</a> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1353792&rss=1 Fri, 12 Jun 2009 14:31 GMT Door lock blanks are available and not <i>super</i> expensive. Any decent locksmith should be able to make a key for you, even with out a key. -- <a href='http://dylans122.blogspot.com'>http://dylans122.blogspot.com</a> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1351298&rss=1 Sun, 31 May 2009 00:36 GMT Hi Craig, I enjoyed chatting with you at the show / swap meet. Looking forward to seeing you and the car again next year! -- <a href='http://dylans122.blogspot.com'>http://dylans122.blogspot.com</a> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1350735&rss=1 Wed, 27 May 2009 15:27 GMT Hello all, I've got a brand new set of seals to go on to a new (to me, anyway) set of wing windows for my '66 2-door. Problem is I'm not sure how to mount them. There seem to be rivets of some sort holding the old seal in place. Can someone give me some advice on how to attack this? The Haynes manual didn't have any useful info on the subject. Thanks! -- <a href='http://dylans122.blogspot.com'>http://dylans122.blogspot.com</a> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1350732&rss=1 Wed, 27 May 2009 15:20 GMT How do your fuses look? -- <a href='http://dylans122.blogspot.com'>http://dylans122.blogspot.com</a> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1345755&rss=1 Sat, 25 Apr 2009 01:22 GMT The Valves are set as per the manual. I haven't done a compression check, but the engine was rebuilt less then 10K miles ago. I'd be really surprised if I have a bad cylinder. Timing is set just a bit advanced of pinging. As I said before I'm convinced this is an issue with the carbs. Everything else under the hood is basically brand new (and has been working as it should.) -- <a href='http://dylans122.blogspot.com'>http://dylans122.blogspot.com</a> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1345557&rss=1 Thu, 23 Apr 2009 23:22 GMT Hi Patrick, thanks for the response. I'd like to think I've got a pretty good understanding of how the SUs work at this point. The frustrating part of all these problems is that I can't figure out what part of the carbs is failing / not working correctly. The mixture is set right (lifting the tuning pins on the side of the carbs, idle increased for a moment then dropped back down to normal). I'm also 99% sure that the floats are set correctly (4.8mm, measured with a feeler gauge with the float lids turned upside down as per the green book.) Idle is set at 950 rpm, both carbs are sucking the same amount of air through them (measured with a sync tool.) Is there anything I'm forgetting to check? -- <a href='http://dylans122.blogspot.com'>http://dylans122.blogspot.com</a> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1345171&rss=1 Tue, 21 Apr 2009 20:47 GMT Hi Charley, I tried the Grose Jets on my car when the floats started leaking and it made no difference. I went back to the rubber tipped stoppers. -- <a href='http://dylans122.blogspot.com'>http://dylans122.blogspot.com</a> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1345169&rss=1 Tue, 21 Apr 2009 20:39 GMT For those that were following my float bowl thread below, I finally gave up and took the car into a local Volvo shop. They discovered a leaking jet, and got the car to stop puking gas from the floats... for a bit. I've got the car back and it's continuing to leak from the float bowls, although it's not happening nearly as much as it was. The car is now also performing quite badly, and I'm 100% sure it's a carb issue. I'm at a point with these carbs that I want to take them off the car and destroy them with my bare hands. I've had nothing but problems and it costing me a <b>lot</b> of money. I've decided that I have basically 2 options: Get my SUs rebuilt (or buy a new set from someone like Rhys or Z-Therapy) or Convert to a Weber. My main concern of having my SUs rebuilt (or replaced) is that I'll continue to have the same struggles that I've had since I bought the car. It's always little stuff, but I can never make them work correctly for more then about 30 minutes. I'm tired of dealing with it. The previous owner told me that the carbs were rebuilt by someone on the east coast about a month before I bought the car (that was a year and a half ago), but I have no idea what all it entailed. That said I'm not super keen on a Weber conversion. I've heard mixed things about the Weber. I like the idea of not having to mess with it or worry about it once I get it dialed in. I don't like the idea of having crummy gas mileage and maybe losing a bit of performance. Plus the Weber kit is expensive and a lot of work. I'd like to hear from folks that have done the conversion, and if they are happy with it. For folks with new/rebuilt SUs, do the issues ever end? I don't mind making minor adjustments (such as idle and fuel mix) every once in a while, but I'm tired of having gas leak and having to adjust things every time I use the car. One way or another I need to get this sorted it. All these issues are starting to make me hate this car. Thanks as always. -- <a href='http://dylans122.blogspot.com'>http://dylans122.blogspot.com</a> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1344815&rss=1 Mon, 20 Apr 2009 01:39 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/