http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=15002 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sun, 22 Nov 2009 07:55 GMT Sun, 22 Nov 2009 07:55 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. The problem was the 1A1 bulbs. Both were new halogen. One was branded Sylvania the other GE. I replaced the GE with a Sylvania branded halogen and the bulb failure indicator went out.!!!! The circuit sensor seems a little to sensitive to me :) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1373653&rss=1 Sat, 19 Sep 2009 14:15 GMT All bulbs working. Failure light on when low beam mains are on. Off at all other times including when high beams are on. What I have done to date. 1. Read every posting I can find on the brickboard 2. Replaced all four headlights with new bulbs. 3. Replaced all tail light and running light bulbs. 4. Cleaned every bulb connector on bulb and bulb holders. Sanded until shiny with emery cloth. Cleaned every ground connector I could find in front and rear. 5. Swapped out bulb failure relay twice with two p&p relays ($4.95 each). Bulb failure relay is still on!!!! Looking for any advice before I start r&r ing every bulb again. What I haven't done Replaced front headlamp harnesses. I could not get them off donor cars at p&p without cutting the harness end of the connector. There must be a way that the connector goes through the lamp bucket but I could not figure it out. Also why does the front turn running light socket want a dual filament bulb when there is only off and on? The socket will only accept a dual filament bulb similar to the Tail/brake lamp. I have run out of ideas. Any help would be appreciated. Howard 1985 245 NA http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1371693&rss=1 Fri, 11 Sep 2009 22:25 GMT For those in San Francisco/Monterey area. I was just at the group of wrecking yards located in Moss Landing. They had the best selection of 240/740's I have seen in years. Lots of ECU's, AMM's, relays, clusters, harnesses, etc. 1984-1990 well represented. Many cars looked 80-90% intact. I got every spare I had been looking for. I am not affiliated with these yards I just use them as a source of parts and wanted to give a heads up to NorCal brickboarders who may need some spares. http://www.brickboard.com/PICKNPULL/?id=1346262&rss=1 Tue, 28 Apr 2009 04:57 GMT Perhaps I am slow but I could use some help. My current battery lasted 8 years (Kragen exide $30) and has now failed. I thought it would be a simple matter to replace. It hasn't been. The usual suspects Kragen, Sears, Costco, autozone do not carry a replacement battery in their computer system. Couple of online sites list replacement at $120-140 dollars + shipping (one was $349!!!). Searched Brickboard, my Haynes manual and Owners manual for battery spec. No Joy. I feel I have done my homework. One Interstate battery source said use Group 46 another Group 47. Would have to special order. Current battery does not have Group # anywhere on the case. Costco had a battery with same dimensions but hold down lip was at base on sides rather than at base on ends. I would like to spend $40-80 for the battery. Anyone have an inexpensive source for replacement battery that is close to correct size and has hold down edges on ends of battery? Anyone have suggestions on replacement tray/hold down combo that would hold newer batteries? Should I use heavy rubber bungee as one poster did? I do know that I need to be aware of where the + and - posts are so that existing cables will reach. + post needs to be rearward and outboard when battery is in position. Thanks for any advice Howard http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1345577&rss=1 Fri, 24 Apr 2009 01:32 GMT Have decided to replace engine harness. Dave Barton does not have the appropriate harness What are other reasonable options? As of today none on Ebay or local craigs list (sf bay area) A mixture of OEM and OES new harnesses seem to be available in price range of $280-500. Any problem with the OES harnesses (like those on FCP groton)? Should I pay more for "OEM" harness? Are OEM harnesses really OEM? On another subject I still cannot get the grey connector off the firewall. Does it pull up to come off the clip? Above there is a bulky wiring harness and hose making pulling up difficult without stressing the harness and hose. The hose is supple but the harness sheath is hardened with age. I would like to repair the grey connector wires but cannot seem to remove or separate the connector without risking damage. Any advice on what would seem to be a simple task would be appreciated. Thanks Howard http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1336806&rss=1 Tue, 10 Mar 2009 17:28 GMT Thank you very much Art. I will try and see if I can get the clip off the firewall. Between the firewall insulation and hose directly above the clip is not obvious but if the connector came off the firewall it would be easier to work on. I understand what you are saying might be hiding behind the harness sheathing. Thanks for the help Howard http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1336542&rss=1 Mon, 9 Mar 2009 04:40 GMT This is a follow-up Checked all wiring which is working and when grounded at block the temp gauge pegs at top of red. Replaced thermostat. The prior thermostat appeared intact and replacing thermostat did not make a difference in behavior of gauge. Ordered replacement coolant temp sensor from FCP at same time as thermostat but they sent me a knock sensor instead. I will talk with them Monday. In retrospect I should have realized that it was not the thermostat because in my warm climate after 15-20 mins any temp thermostat would be wide open. In looking at the wiring situation I discovered that the four wires going into the grey connector on the firewall had all shed their insulation on the engine side of the connector. After 20 minutes of work I could not get the grey connector to unconnect (perhaps due to its' attachment to the firewall) and yes I did depress the snaps on the connector :). As a temporary fix I coated the exposed wires with "plasticote" paint that I had lying around. the wires on the other side of the connector had very healthy looking insulation and seemed larger gauge but I believe they are also OEM. I don't even want to think about replacing the wiring harness on this $500 car. Where the 4 wires were exposed the remaining insulation appeared to be the following colors red, black, yellow and yellow/green. I assume the yellow/green one used to be light green and is the one going to the temp sender sensor but can anyone tell me what the others are? How important are they? Do some carry info to the computers for ignition and fuel? Any trick to unconnecting that grey connector. I didn't want to use brute force and break one of the wires. Right now I cannot tell any difference in the way the car is running so I don't believe I have broken anything yet. I really, really, really don't want to replace the entire harness http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1336499&rss=1 Mon, 9 Mar 2009 00:27 GMT Here in California you might have a bidding war for what you are describing. The car is worth what the buyer and seller agree on. As you described it I would pay $4000-4500 if I could find one. Really quite a desirable car that should easily make it to 300,000 miles with proper care. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1334944&rss=1 Mon, 2 Mar 2009 02:38 GMT Thank you Art. I looked at egauge and it should have what I need. The in line senders for electrical gauges should work out fine. Also the low cost IR thermometer looks like a fun tool to have. Howard http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1334878&rss=1 Sun, 1 Mar 2009 21:51 GMT Am thinking of installing an aftermarket coolant temp gauge on my NA 1985 245. Have searched through the forums but not come up with a discussion that seems to address this issue. My questions are: Can aftermarket gauge work in parallel with OEM gauge? If so are two sensors required? Where would the second sensor be placed? Can anyone recommend source for an aftermarket gauge that would fit in the small (3 1/2) hole below the clock in the instrument cluster? Thanks Howard http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1334863&rss=1 Sun, 1 Mar 2009 20:13 GMT I'll second that. Pretty much what I did. GE Clear Silicone caulk around window molding and wire brush with Extend rust neutralizer on the rusted metal. Seems to have stabilized things for the past 3 years http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1334718&rss=1 Sun, 1 Mar 2009 01:54 GMT Everything else in the cluster seems to be working normally. Will let you know if I run out of gas when gauge still shows 1/4 tank. :) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1334519&rss=1 Sat, 28 Feb 2009 02:07 GMT No it doesn't "move" the wrong way it just starts below the lower white hash mark and as the car warms up it moves at a normal rate until it equalizes and holds at approximatley the 8 o"clock position. The actual distance it moves has not changed now it just moves below the lower white hash mark to the 8 o'clock position whereas before it would move from bottom white hash mark to 9 o'clock position. It just seems to now act as it always did but the needle is displaced about 30 degrees counter clockwise from where it was before. I guess what you are telling me is that the lead going to the temp gauge has lost its' insulation. That may be the problem and it looks like it is going to be a real problem to fix without removing the intake manifold. I really cannot see where that wire leaves the harness. It is buried somewhere under the #3 intake header behind some large and small vacuum lines http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1334479&rss=1 Sat, 28 Feb 2009 00:02 GMT Took connectors off. Cleaned and sprayed with contact cleaner. No change in behavior of gauge. The reason I have trouble thinking that the problem is the thermostat is that even with the engine cold and not running the temp gauge sits lower that it used to. There were two sensors near each other below the #2,3 intake manifold. on the one slightly lower and further back the wire was insulated. On the one higher and somewhat forward the wire going to the connector was not insulated. I didn't see crumbling insulation on that wire but given the age of the car perhaps the wire has completely shed its' insulation. For my information which sensor is which? I couldn't find that information in my Haynes Manual which seemed to show only one sensor. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1334451&rss=1 Fri, 27 Feb 2009 21:42 GMT This is an update to previous post. I still have not found other end for this wire. I have looked as closely as possible beneath the intake manifold no joy. Car has LH Jettronics 2.2 system. My Hayes manual gives two possible uses for this two wire bundle 1. "test instrument pick up point" as part of O2 sensor feedback system. This seems most likely to me and was mentions by the responder to my original post. 2. Made to connect with "thermo-time" switch. I believe this is just used with earlier (1982) models. Any other thoughts by members of the board. I don't really know why I am bothered by this since car start and performs flawlessly (for 290K miles). This 1985 245 gets City/Highway 24mpg and 27mpg at 70mph on freeway. At this point I will just leave the connector loose and follow the not broken don't fix it maxim. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1334429&rss=1 Fri, 27 Feb 2009 20:18 GMT No but I will do it tomorrow and report back http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1334312&rss=1 Fri, 27 Feb 2009 02:25 GMT Recently had heater hose blowout. No engine overheat or significant coolant loss. It occured after shutdown in the driveway. After hose(s) replaced and coolent topped off the temp gauge now sits at 7:30 o'clock when engine is warm rather than 9 o'clock position where it rested previously. Otherwise the gauge seems to work properly. When cold it now sits well below the bottom white line whereas before it was just below the bottom white line. I will say that after the hose blew and soaked the engine compartment with coolant the car would not start until the under the hood wiring harnesses and connectors had been completely dried and connectors treated with contact cleaner. I am aware of the compensator board issues but why would this occurence cause the compensator board to act up. I suspect the problem is under the hood not in the instrument cluster. Any thoughts from the board? Howard http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1334249&rss=1 Thu, 26 Feb 2009 19:06 GMT Sorry in California we need the pre heat hose so we can put it on every 2 years for smog inspection :). http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1334064&rss=1 Wed, 25 Feb 2009 21:52 GMT Just replaced heater hoses on the engine side of the firewall. 1985 NA 245 with manual transmission. While doing this job discovered a sheathed 2 wire bundle with booted dual female connector. This came from the driver side passenger compartment firewall just inboard from the brake vacuum unit. The wires were green and black and the bundle was just long enough to reach either the transmission bell housing or somewhere under the intake manifold. Look as I might I could not discover any male connector this goes to. Is it just part of the standard bundle for some option that my car does not have such as Auto transmission or cruise control. Inquiring mind wants to know. Thanks Howard http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1333929&rss=1 Wed, 25 Feb 2009 02:14 GMT Pretty funny. It has been a problem for me but when I stepped through this thread it worked. Have tried both firefox and IE with the same results. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1333924&rss=1 Wed, 25 Feb 2009 01:58 GMT 1985 245 286K miles. Maroon, stick. Got this car for my son when he turned 16 (1999). Paid $500 and it had 190K miles on it. Previous owner was neighbor's son who was a surfer. Would drive it to Baja with friends and camp on the beach. The car has lots of body rust. Now have driven it about 100K miles. Have replaced the MAM, couple of relays and miscellaneous trim parts with junkyard rescues. Installed turbo suspension parts from junkyard find and new shocks and bushings. Routine brakes, clutch and timing belt services. Recently had the top patched and painted ($485) so rain wouldn't start coming in. Body shop guy was sympathetic but wondered why I would spend that kind of money on a $500 car. Lots of body rust but no rust on frame or weight bearing parts. Original engine and tranny. Doesn't burn any oil, almost no measurable HC or NO at smog check, gets 21/27 mpg, uses regular and will cruise steadily at 70-75 on the freeway. It is my daily driver and last week used it to take 2 yards of yard clippings to the dump. Just got annual registration bill and it was $52. Liability insurance about $350 a year. What a great car!!!! I plan to drive it until a major body part rusts off, the engine harness fails or my wife has it towed away while I sleep. Oh by the way, did I mention what a great car my 85 245 is? Howard http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1240131&rss=1 Sat, 8 Dec 2007 00:21 GMT 1993 945T 178,000 miles. One of three studs were Turbo unit connects to downpipe is broken off and there is small exhaust leak at connection. Couple of questions. 1. Does the turbo need to be removed from the car to replace this stud or is there (as it appears) an adapter holding the stud between the actual turbo unit and the downpipe which can be removed and fixed? 2. Is this a job where the downpipe can be removed and the stud on the adapter/turbo replaced without removing the turbo from the car? 3. If the turbo does need to be removed is this a time to pre-emptively replace the turbo (which is original but is working fine) or is the labor to R/R the turbo such a small small part of the overall cost of turbo replacement that replacing a working turbo just because it is old and off the car doesn't make economic sense? I will not be doing this job myself but would like a little knowledge before talking to the shop. Thanks for any information Brickboard members can give Howard http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1235919&rss=1 Thu, 22 Nov 2007 21:28 GMT Thanks for the help. Your concise explantion was just what I was looking for. Howard http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1223505&rss=1 Tue, 9 Oct 2007 01:51 GMT 1985 245dl non turbo manual M46. Recently had clutch replaced and now the "shift indicator light" (that yellow arrow that tells you to upshift for better gas milage) is on all of the time. Wires all seem connected and clutch pedal switch is in correct position. Any thoughts? Thanks Howard http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1223487&rss=1 Tue, 9 Oct 2007 00:58 GMT Seems to have normal power and milage. Will look at manual to educate myself about timing checks. Howard http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1170039&rss=1 Sun, 25 Mar 2007 17:27 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/