http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=14846 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 05:04 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 05:04 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. I usually have to move the shifter a little each way to get the lights to come on due to bad linkage bushings. You can locate them by crawling underneath your Volvo. -- Michael 'Street'... one AZ '85 244DL 205K miles http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=826177&rss=1 Tue, 13 Jul 2004 15:05 GMT It saves a lot of time and very easy to get to. I built a conversion out of the parts from the junkyard from a newer flame trap... very easy and only 2 longer hoses is all you really need. just make sure they're in good condition. -- Michael 'Street'... one AZ '85 244DL 205K miles http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=826175&rss=1 Tue, 13 Jul 2004 14:56 GMT Thanks for all the help everyone! I finally broke down and had my sister's bf look at the volvo. He looked at the dist. cap and rotor. I had never changed it in almost 90k miles, so it was all worn out. He said that this should 100% be the problem. Thanks again! -- Michael 'Street'... one AZ '85 244DL 205K miles http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=825297&rss=1 Sun, 11 Jul 2004 06:26 GMT I've been having bad luck w/ the Volvo lately, so maybe someone could help. I've been trying to troubleshoot a problem with my Volvo using a hanes manual. Here's the story: When I start the car it runs for about 10 seconds then wants to die or dies. It seems to want to die more often when it's warmed up. I've replaced the auxilary air valve, fixed all vacuume leaks, but the car still dies. I've used the water in a squirt bottle to look for leaks in the intake manifold and injector seals, but no signs of differ in idle. Sometimes it will die even when it's revved up really high to keep an idle. Yesterday, I was at the gas station trying to start it when it backfired so loudly! Everyone just stared!!!..it was embarrassing!!! It blew the seam in my 1st muffler, so now it sounds like a rice machine. I have tried troubleshooting the problem to the best of my ability, but I need some help now. I've had the car for 3 1/2 years and put 90k miles on it, but never been this confused on a prob. like this. I checked all fuses. I'm pretty sure it getting enough fuel. Hopefully someone has ran into a prob. like this. Thanks for listening! I almost forgot to mention that when the car is at normal temp., it takes awhile to get it to start up again... sometimes I have to wait about 10 minutes, then it starts right up. -- Michael 'Street'... one AZ '85 244DL 203K miles http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=823647&rss=1 Wed, 7 Jul 2004 07:16 GMT I know what your talking about. Take a flat end screwdriver to lift the lever up into the cradle. It's easier than said. :-) -- Michael 'Street'... one AZ '85 244DL 203K miles http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=823645&rss=1 Wed, 7 Jul 2004 07:03 GMT You may want to check your vaccuum hoses out one more time. You can also check the flame trap pieces. I had the same problem with the car stalling due to a cracked flame trap kit and vaccuum hoses. Also check the big air hoses that connects to the trottle body. I've heard of people taking a spray bottle filled with water then spraying the hoses.. if there's a change in the idle then there's a leak in the spot you have just sprayed the water on. Hope this might help. -- Michael 'Street'... one AZ '85 244DL 203K miles http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=818047&rss=1 Wed, 23 Jun 2004 21:25 GMT Long time, no see Brickboarders!! My brakelights are not working anymore. I tried fixing them like i've done before, but no success this time. I noticed yesterday that my turn signal was flashing really fast for a couple seconds, then returned to normal. Is there any relation to these two lights? Is there a relay or switch involved. The turn signals only do this once and while, but are still working... although the brake lights aren't. Another thing is that the rear foglight on the right is not working, but the left one does. Can anyone help? Thanks in advance!! -- Michael 'Street'... one AZ '85 244DL 203K miles http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=817559&rss=1 Tue, 22 Jun 2004 21:15 GMT Thanks again! My problem turned out to be the idle control air valve. I picked one up in the junkyard for $8, cleaned it put it on, prayed and the idle immediately went down. I'm very happy with my Volvo again! -- Michael 'Street'... one AZ '85 244DL 203K miles http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=787170&rss=1 Fri, 16 Apr 2004 20:29 GMT Hi. I'm having a problem with my car again. The idle is really high lately and after the engine has heated up to driving temp. it stalls. I spent 2 hours yesterday looking for any problem such as a vacuume leak in the lines, flame trap and hoses, air filter hose, etc. I tried turning down the idle as low as it would go with the idle screw, but no luck. Could this be a throttle body or constant idle system problem? Hopefully someone can help. Thanks! -- Michael 'Street'... one AZ '85 244DL 203K miles http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=784252&rss=1 Sat, 10 Apr 2004 19:06 GMT Thanks everyone! I repaired the cooling line to the transmission with a small piece of hose and some clamps. I found a huge crack in the flametrap pipe, which must have been stalling the car. After I fixed the flametrap the car has not stalled once! Thanks again. ps.. got some new tires today. -- Michael 'Street'... one AZ '85 244DL 201K miles http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=780670&rss=1 Fri, 2 Apr 2004 23:22 GMT Hi all! I haven't visited the site for so long, but I have a new problem with my '85 240. About a week ago I was on the freeway when a fairly sized piece of tread came off my front tire. I pulled over and my car was smoking a bit. The next day I found out that the tread had somehow hit a part of the transmission and now it has a slow leak, which was the cause for it to smoke on the exuast. I left to get a new tire the next day following and after driving for about 15-20 miles the car kept sputtering and finally stalled. I decided to be safe and just turn around and go back home. The next day I made the same attempt into town. My car stalled and took about 10-15 minutes to start, so I came back home. I keep the tranny fluid at good level and keep filling it up. I noticed the cooler line seemed to be leaking (which the tread obviosly hit to make it leak). I don't understand why the car is stalling, since it has never done this before. I looked under the hood looking for loose wires, air filter... etc. The car does not overheat. Thanks for listening and good to see the brickboard again! -- Michael 'Street'... one AZ '85 244DL 201K miles http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=775073&rss=1 Tue, 23 Mar 2004 18:50 GMT http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=729530&rss=1 Wed, 31 Dec 2003 05:30 GMT Thankyou Smitty!! I noticed you also live in AZ...cool! I should've given more info. about the engine in my car. It's a b230f engine with LH injection. The car is an '85. I've meant to clean the throttle body and change the gasket, but haven't done so since I bought it 3 years ago with 117k miles on it. It's almost 200k miles now. I think it's about time. You also mentioned a bad sensor might be probable. On my engine I noticed after replacing the oil filter that the wire on sensor (below or beside oil filter) was worn. Which sensor is this? I changed the fuel filter not too long ago and always use good quality gasoline. Usually chevron. The car idles very well after its warmed up. The oil changes are regular. It might help to note that I had the fuel pre-pump replaced about a year and a half ago. Thanks for the help again. -- Michael 'Street'... one AZ '85 244DL 199K miles http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=729067&rss=1 Tue, 30 Dec 2003 13:17 GMT Hi everyone. I haven't posted for a couple months. Anyway, it's gotten to be pretty cold here in AZ. When I start my car up the idle is very slow and almost sounds like my car is going to stall (but never does). The oil is changed every 3k miles. Is there a solution to this problem, or is it just life for a volvo with 199k miles on the engine. I appreciate the advice everyone and great to be back with the brickboard. Thanks in advance! -- Michael 'Street'... one AZ '85 244DL 199K miles http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=728481&rss=1 Mon, 29 Dec 2003 08:54 GMT It's totally worth it. Easy, but takes time removing the whole rear seat. Romoving the rear seat is also easy, but takes time... and that's it. You must have another person help you while you bolt in the headrests from trunk to inside of car. Other than having another helping hand.. the holes for bolts are already drilled and located for intalling the head restraints. You will need to cut out the holes from the rear speaker deck. I've completed this project, which took about a little over an hour, but still haven't repainted the tan headrest to match dk. brown interior. g-luck, and enjoy the project. -- Michael 'Street'... one AZ '85 244DL 197K miles http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=711926&rss=1 Fri, 21 Nov 2003 12:18 GMT Very nice Ron. This car looks like it's in very good condition and I love the blue. Also, love the roofrack of white wagon. -- Michael 'Street'... one AZ '85 244DL 195K miles http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=710078&rss=1 Mon, 17 Nov 2003 07:45 GMT Posted this awhile back. If it's not the Neutral Safety switch, then try this procedure. Hope it all works out... The safety neutral switch is found underneath the shifter cover which is held in by two screws. You do not need to take this switch out if your only adjusting the white pointer with the park and neutral marks (shown on the black switch housing). Loosen the two screws on the housing slighty, then adjust the switch and pointer. It's very easy, but may take a few tries. In my case, my backlights didn't work for 3 years. I'd try this before you mess with that switch... open that trunk up and access the lights. Unscrew the backup light bulb holder from lighting. There will be a copper metal ring attached to the green circuit board. Use a fine grit sand paper and gently clean the copper ring. Also do this with the bulb holder spring tabs. Have you ever noticed when washing your car that water will almost always collect in the backup light? Water causes a bad electrical connection point from the bulb holder socket and that copper ring. When I did this, the lights worked after that! I only had to clean the left hand side, but did them both instead. Another thing to consider cleaning with the sand paper is the ground wire. Yet another solution is to take that small white/clear plastic wire connector off and open it up with the tip of a small knife. Now, wires are exposed... there will be wires and small "teeth-like" clamps on the end. Take each wire out at a time and use some needle nose pliers to crimp them tighter just a little bit. This will make the connector wires hold better to the circuit board. After this procedure, I haven't had any nagging taillight problems yet in a year and going. G-luck! -- Michael 'Street'... one AZ '85 244DL 192K miles -- Michael 'Street'... one AZ '85 244DL 195K miles http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=700606&rss=1 Thu, 23 Oct 2003 06:19 GMT Yep, Phil that's your best bet to install a new voltage regulator. My lights flickered until I changed the v.r. out. -- Michael 'Street'... one AZ '85 244DL 195K miles http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=700119&rss=1 Wed, 22 Oct 2003 06:54 GMT I posted this a month ago... might be a good idea if you want to do a homemade conversion, which is GREAT! Now, it only takes me 5 minutes to clean the trap on my '85 240. Just have patience getting the old one out. The converion only takes about 30 minutes. I thought I noticed a taller oil box on the later 240's in the junkyard, but I wasn't sure. I didn't use the "s" shaped pipe at all, but grabbed two of everything just in case. I used an extra rubber pipe that runs from the intake hose to trap (used on later style) on the oil box-through the intake manifold. I cut both ends off to fit accordingly. I just stuck the trap and holder inside that pipe at the top then fit the last rubber pipe to the air intake hose and to top/cover trap. Everything is clean and fits tighter than the original trap. I didn't have any problems w/ the wiring harness at all. I also found out that my original flame trap was missing the trap part with the small holes. -- Michael 'Street'... one AZ '85 244DL 192K miles -- Michael 'Street'... one AZ '85 244DL 195K miles http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=700118&rss=1 Wed, 22 Oct 2003 06:51 GMT Hi Joanna, You really did get the good end of the so called deal w/ your ex. Look who's laughing now? The Volvo your driving now shouldn't cost too much to keep up. The first repair I ever did on my Volvo myself was a new water pump. Let me tell you that I overlooked that manual before I tore into everything! It was all successful after 5 trips to the autoparts store. They kept giving me the wrong size pump, missing seals, different gaskets. Boy, was I pissed-off! :-) It all takes patience I'd say. Make sure all the parts are correct before you dig into any project. My car is in need of a new clock which doesn't work also. The suspension on my car is all original unfortunately! It needs a center-support bearing and rubber center on the driveshaft, ball-joints, strut mounts, a new timing belt, which now has 100k miles on it, new u-joints in the driveshaft, wheel bearings, an allignment, a fan clutch, all new bushing which are shot just to name some of the more major things on the list. Your not alone with the Volvo problems I can assure you! Just keep the engine oil changed on schedule. Find a good junkyard... you'll find more things in there than you can imagine and for cheap (especially interior items). I usually take one of those small shoebox size storage bins full of tools as my toolbox. Good thing you have a garage to work in and that will come in handy. Buy some tools every once in awhile and watch the collection grow. You'll have fun working on the car and a sense of accomplishment in the end. Take care and keep us posted! Good Luck! :-) -- Michael 'Street'... one AZ '85 244DL 195K miles http://www.brickboard.com/INTROS/?id=697044&rss=1 Tue, 14 Oct 2003 09:37 GMT When I think of whitewalls I think of a GM. I think whitewalls have just gone out of vogue. -- Michael 'Street'... one AZ '85 244DL 192K miles http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=696231&rss=1 Sun, 12 Oct 2003 07:52 GMT I think it would be unheard of for Volvo to provide a stupid donut tire. Yet another safety feature to provide a full-size spare tire. I believe it came w/ the temporary firestone spare as my current and past Volvo have had. The guy probably doesn't even know what he's talking about anyway. -- Michael 'Street'... one AZ '85 244DL 192K miles http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=694286&rss=1 Tue, 7 Oct 2003 06:06 GMT I purchased mine from AutoZone 6 months ago with no problems since w/ all the heavy driving to go with it. Mine was also $90. -- Michael 'Street'... one AZ '85 244DL 192K miles http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=694283&rss=1 Tue, 7 Oct 2003 06:00 GMT The safety neutral switch is found underneath the shifter cover which is held in by two screws. You do not need to take this switch out if your only adjusting the white pointer with the park and neutral marks (shown on the black switch housing). Loosen the two screws on the housing slighty, then adjust the switch and pointer. It's very easy, but may take a few tries. In my case, my backlights didn't work for 3 years. I'd try this before you mess with that switch... open that trunk up and access the lights. Unscrew the backup light bulb holder from lighting. There will be a copper metal ring attached to the green circuit board. Use a fine grit sand paper and gently clean the copper ring. Also do this with the bulb holder spring tabs. Have you ever noticed when washing your car that water will almost always collect in the backup light? Water causes a bad electrical connection point from the bulb holder socket and that copper ring. When I did this, the lights worked after that! I only had to clean the left hand side, but did them both instead. Another thing to consider cleaning with the sand paper is the ground wire. Yet another solution is to take that small white/clear plastic wire connector off and open it up with the tip of a small knife. Now, wires are exposed... there will be wires and small "teeth-like" clamps on the end. Take each wire out at a time and use some needle nose pliers to crimp them tighter just a little bit. This will make the connector wires hold better to the circuit board. After this procedure, I haven't had any nagging taillight problems yet in a year and going. G-luck! -- Michael 'Street'... one AZ '85 244DL 192K miles http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=691769&rss=1 Tue, 30 Sep 2003 23:13 GMT This might just be condensation from the AC drain, which is supposed to drain from a hose right above the transmission. Is the fluid clear or green like coolant? Is the red metal hose from the water pump to tranny leaking at all? These are two possibilies to consider. -- Michael 'Street'... one AZ '85 244DL 192K miles http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=691759&rss=1 Tue, 30 Sep 2003 22:54 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/